This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[speedfiend]

Alright guys Im in the middle of completely revamping my entire suspension setup. The parts being installed on the rear are: Driftworks LCA's, Stance Traction Rods, Peak Performance RUCA's, Peak Performance Toe Arms, Era-1 Drop knuckles (Basically Driftworks V2 Knuckles), and all new ES bushings in the subframe.

My question is, awhile back I remember some folks mentioning they were having issues with one of the arms contacting the subframe with the suspension under compression. Can't remember which arm it was. Anyways I saw that some people said to use subframe spacers to eliminate this issue. I currently have SPL subframe spacers that were previously installed with my stock bushings (mainly to reduce the slack from worn out bushings). Do I need to reinstall these collars on the subframe even though I will have new bushings in the subframe? Are these even the correct collars people were speaking about to fix the issue? And finally if there are a different set of spacers needed can someone please direct me to them as well as in what order they need to be installed? IE. raise the subframe or lower it or tilt it forward or rearward? Any help with this will be much appreciated as Id like to have this sorted out before I do the final install with the rear end components.
Thanx, Cameron

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by speedfiend

Alright guys Im in the middle of completely revamping my entire suspension setup. The parts being installed on the rear are: Driftworks LCA's, Stance Traction Rods, Peak Performance RUCA's, Peak Performance Toe Arms, Era-1 Drop knuckles (Basically Driftworks V2 Knuckles), and all new ES bushings in the subframe.

My question is, awhile back I remember some folks mentioning they were having issues with one of the arms contacting the subframe with the suspension under compression. Can't remember which arm it was. Anyways I saw that some people said to use subframe spacers to eliminate this issue. I currently have SPL subframe spacers that were previously installed with my stock bushings (mainly to reduce the slack from worn out bushings). Do I need to reinstall these collars on the subframe even though I will have new bushings in the subframe? Are these even the correct collars people were speaking about to fix the issue? And finally if there are a different set of spacers needed can someone please direct me to them as well as in what order they need to be installed? IE. raise the subframe or lower it or tilt it forward or rearward? Any help with this will be much appreciated as Id like to have this sorted out before I do the final install with the rear end components.
Thanx, Cameron

I presume that reference would be to the toe arm and possible the RUCA. If you space the subframe up (closer to the chassis) you'll have more clearance between the toe arm and the subframe but less chassis clearance to the RUCA. If your toe and RUCA's have bends in them you shouldn't have a problem with subframe or chassis clearance.

[speedfiend]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

I presume that reference would be to the toe arm and possible the RUCA. If you space the subframe up (closer to the chassis) you'll have more clearance between the toe arm and the subframe but less chassis clearance to the RUCA. If your toe and RUCA's have bends in them you shouldn't have a problem with subframe or chassis clearance.

Well my toe arms are straight but my rucas are the half moon style to go around the coilover. So based off your suggestion I should not install the spacers on the top side of the bushings in order to tuck the subframe closer to the chassis. Im gonna get everything installed and see how everything looks. Thanx again for the reply.
Cameron

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by speedfiend

Well my toe arms are straight but my rucas are the half moon style to go around the coilover. So based off your suggestion I should not install the spacers on the top side of the bushings in order to tuck the subframe closer to the chassis. Im gonna get everything installed and see how everything looks. Thanx again for the reply.
Cameron

I'm referring to the bend in the RUCA horizontally to avoid the chassis rail. When raising the subframe the RUCA will have less clearance to the chassis rail.

If your toe arms aren't bent and your RUCA's aren't bent (horizontally) then I wouldn't raise the subframe as you'll likely hit the chassis rails.

[speedfiend]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

I'm referring to the bend in the RUCA horizontally to avoid the chassis rail. When raising the subframe the RUCA will have less clearance to the chassis rail.

If your toe arms aren't bent and your RUCA's aren't bent (horizontally) then I wouldn't raise the subframe as you'll likely hit the chassis rails.

Ohhhhh ok I see what your saying. Yea neither of my arms are horizontally bent. So I guess when I go back on with the subframe I will install the upper and lower SPL collars that I have. Hopefully that will eliminate any issues with the arms hitting the chassis.
Thanx for the help.
Cameron

[kerolah]

Hey guys.

I want to upgrade my LCA and knuckles to get some sweet lock.

I have been looking at either wisefab or gktech v3 with LCAS.

Currently i am leaning towards gktech with the shorter LCAs. Any advice before i purchase? or should i just get wisefab?

[sr vegas 240]

Originally Posted by kerolah

Hey guys.

I want to upgrade my LCA and knuckles to get some sweet lock.

I have been looking at either wisefab or gktech v3 with LCAS.

Currently i am leaning towards gktech with the shorter LCAs. Any advice before i purchase? or should i just get wisefab?

I have the v3 gktech drop knuckle and their control arms it's freaking awesome. Personally never dealt with wisefab but gktech will be cheaper option.

[kerolah]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

I have the v3 gktech drop knuckle and their control arms it's freaking awesome. Personally never dealt with wisefab but gktech will be cheaper option.

Awesome! need more details

What length control arms did you go? How far out do you have them set and what is that like on camber and caster like? how many degs do you think you get?

[sr vegas 240]

I got the longer ones but they are set to the shortest lenght and I have very small amount of tire poke on a 17x8.5 don't know the offset but nothing crazy. Tire sticks out maybe half inch. When i get off work ill look for my alignment printout caster was in the stock range and camber was 5 something.

[kerolah]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

I got the longer ones but they are set to the shortest lenght and I have very small amount of tire poke on a 17x8.5 don't know the offset but nothing crazy. Tire sticks out maybe half inch. When i get off work ill look for my alignment printout caster was in the stock range and camber was 5 something.

thanks buddy.

So you recommend the longer ones but all the way in?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by kerolah

thanks buddy.

So you recommend the longer ones but all the way in?

It really comes down to your wheel fitment. The longer LCA's are also thicker for added strength but keep in mind that wound all the way in they are +39mm (1.5") and can go out to +74mm (3")

[Black R]

So I picked up a set of the GKTECH v2 FLCA's and GKTECH v2 knuckles...

I'm definitely going to use the FLCA's, but should I keep the s13 abs knuckles that are already on the car with GKTECH roll center correction kit?

It seems they perform the same function, unless I'm missing something?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by Black R

So I picked up a set of the GKTECH v2 FLCA's and GKTECH v2 knuckles...

I'm definitely going to use the FLCA's, but should I keep the s13 abs knuckles that are already on the car with GKTECH roll center correction kit?

It seems they perform the same function, unless I'm missing something?

The lock is very similar from the V2 knuckle to the RC correction kit however the steering arm on the knuckle is a bit shorter (quicker steering) and the knuckle has the advantage of not having an increase in scrub radius that the RC correction kit does have. As you already have them, I would run the knuckles myself.

[sr vegas 240]

Originally Posted by kerolah

thanks buddy.

So you recommend the longer ones but all the way in?

Like GKTECH said comes down to your wheel set up.
My alignment I have -4.7 camber my top mounts are set in the middle. Caster is 7.4 and there is a ton of adjustment on the control arms.

[jaysgottaredtop]

I'm pumped that GKTech is coming out with these extended FLCAs. It's about time someone makes a stock-style FLCA with a stock-style ball joint cup, an inner heim joint, and a super long length.

Two versions, long (+20mm thru +45mm) and extra long (+40mm thru +65mm). Lengths relative to stock S14/S15.

Similar to their one-piece FLCA/tension arm, but for a much lower cost, and you can keep using your tension rod of choice.

My only complaint is that it's not available to order yet

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

I'm pumped that GKTech is coming out with these extended FLCAs. It's about time someone makes a stock-style FLCA with a stock-style ball joint cup, an inner heim joint, and a super long length.

Two versions, long (+20mm thru +45mm) and extra long (+40mm thru +65mm). Lengths relative to stock S14/S15.

Similar to their one-piece FLCA/tension arm, but for a much lower cost, and you can keep using your tension rod of choice.

My only complaint is that it's not available to order yet

Note that the ones shown here are a V1 prototype which were literally painted with a can in a cold shed. The final version which is already in production has a second hole for the swaybar end link and is elongated for further adjustment and the final version has a lock stop incorporated. Expected intro price is around $200 USD for the pair.

[jaysgottaredtop]

Yeah. That sounds great. Where do I sign up for a pre-order?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

Yeah. That sounds great. Where do I sign up for a pre-order?

If you send an email through to [email protected] and I'll get you on the waiting list.

[Chris28]

I'm in the same boat as di-devol was a few pages back. s13, gen 1 GKTech rear knuckles, RUCA clearance issues. I originally had older (not the most current) PBM rucas and they rubbed the stock axle boots but I dealt with it, since going to Driveshaft Shop axles I went with GKTech rucas. Figured being from the same manufacturer they should work together but I can't get through an event without tearing a boot.

Also tried flipping sides and going behind the coilover but that didn't work with either the PBM or the GKTech rucas, they both hit the coilover.

Looking at the most recent PBM rucas that are supposedly designed for axle clearance but I was wondering if anyone could confirm that combo works before I drop $260.

Thanks

[epik1]

PSA :
GK TECH FLCA BUMP STOPS DON'T DO JACK.

First day out with them, adjust bump stops to full length (less angle). Tightened down the adjustment bolts, by the end of the first few sessions, both bump stops have folded = might as well not have bump stops. The bolts did not fail or back themselves out, I don't think I drive over aggressively.

This is not to say these arms are not good quality. The whole point of buying this piece is to achieve more angle, clearance, and adjustability which is 100% what they did.
However, I still wanted to use the bump stop feature because I hadn't fully done the proper clearance "mods" (tubs/open wheel wells/chassis smashing/chassis harness extend/tuck) by the end of the day, I rubbed through my harness.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by Chris28

I'm in the same boat as di-devol was a few pages back. s13, gen 1 GKTech rear knuckles, RUCA clearance issues. I originally had older (not the most current) PBM rucas and they rubbed the stock axle boots but I dealt with it, since going to Driveshaft Shop axles I went with GKTech rucas. Figured being from the same manufacturer they should work together but I can't get through an event without tearing a boot.

Also tried flipping sides and going behind the coilover but that didn't work with either the PBM or the GKTech rucas, they both hit the coilover.

Looking at the most recent PBM rucas that are supposedly designed for axle clearance but I was wondering if anyone could confirm that combo works before I drop $260.

Thanks

Send an email through to Greg at [email protected] and we'll do you a swap over deal on our new V4 camber arms. They have more drive shaft clearance which as you've pointed out can be needed on cars with drop knuckles.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by epik1

PSA :
GK TECH FLCA BUMP STOPS DON'T DO JACK.

First day out with them, adjust bump stops to full length (less angle). Tightened down the adjustment bolts, by the end of the first few sessions, both bump stops have folded = might as well not have bump stops. The bolts did not fail or back themselves out, I don't think I drive over aggressively.

This is not to say these arms are not good quality. The whole point of buying this piece is to achieve more angle, clearance, and adjustability which is 100% what they did.
However, I still wanted to use the bump stop feature because I hadn't fully done the proper clearance "mods" (tubs/open wheel wells/chassis smashing/chassis harness extend/tuck) by the end of the day, I rubbed through my harness.

Sorry to hear that you bent the lock stops. We've now sold over 500 pairs of the LCA's and I think to date we've had maybe 2 people bend the lock stops that I'm aware of however we're always looking for improvement and when we have the new revised version of lock stops made up (they're already in production) we can swap them over for you. As a temporary fix you could box the current lock stop in.

[epik1]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

Sorry to hear that you bent the lock stops. We've now sold over 500 pairs of the LCA's and I think to date we've had maybe 2 people bend the lock stops that I'm aware of however we're always looking for improvement and when we have the new revised version of lock stops made up (they're already in production) we can swap them over for you. As a temporary fix you could box the current lock stop in.

WOW I totally forgot you guys were on Zilvia.
But I'm glad you are, shows you're actually in the community! Thats awesome support.
Thanks for the offer, I will take pics and contact you guys when you guys come out with the new revision.
I'm not in a huge rush, the same day my engine decided to start saying no on me lol

[derass]

Someone posted their angle kit on Facebook. Not so sure about those LCA's...

[ka-titties]

seems legit

[Johannes]

Hey guys! Selling my S14 pbm adjustable ackerman/trialing spindle knuckles, still new.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p...19#post6230019

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

If you send an email through to [email protected] and I'll get you on the waiting list.

Stick me on that list Greg, its Sylas.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Stick me on that list Greg, its Sylas.

What was this for? Send me an email or message on FB please.

[Bnr32gtr]

Ok need some help/input. I finally got to my first event it was a blast! I spun a lot while I was there I chalked it up as in need more seat time, when I got home I noticed i was rubbing the sway bar really hard 2" wide paint rubbed off on both side. I would only spin if let it go to full lock,once at lock the wheel would get stuck as in not come back to center. I had a freind turn the wheel to lock while I lay under in watch I'm nowhere near touching. But I hear a pop pop sound. My rack was just rebuilt so I don't think it's skipping. I think the rack is moving left to right? I have old pbm knuckles with they newer bent style flca. With gk tech offset rack rack spacers and pbm rack bushings the solid ones that move it forward. I'm think they are the problem. I did not like them when I installed them as they had a gap. Do the gk tech brand solid rack bushing have that gap? I see they come with some kind of spacer/washer. Or is there a better option. I plan to get a new sub frame from fraction motor sports but that could be a year or 2 away. Are there A better solid rack bushing options for in the meanwhile. Also I noticed by the end of the event if i did a u turn the wheel would only come back at 11 or 1 oclock so I'm pretty shore the rack is moving around. Also one last thing how to u test for steering bind?Thanks for any input/help

[jaysgottaredtop]

^ Yeah, what you're describing sounds exactly like rack movement.

I didn't like my solid offset rack spacers. My rack would constantly shift back and forth when hitting lock, like what yours is doing.

I ended up getting my subframe modified to move the rack forward an inch, and switched back to rubber/poly bushings. Feels a million times better. 10/10 would recommend.