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Old 01-31-2007, 07:28 AM   #91
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Pretty simple yet a bit time consuming.

Yesterday I wire wheeled and sanded the driver's side floor pan making sure to get all of the rust off. Most of it was actually just rust dust from a few problem spots:



Then, using some 16GA plates, I tacked the plates over the rust from the inside:



Next, I will fill in the seams with seam sealant and then paint the floorpan with rust inhibiting paint. This is a lot easier than I thought it was going to be.
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Old 01-31-2007, 09:49 AM   #92
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This build is turning into one of my favorite threads on here. Keep the updates coming!
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Old 01-31-2007, 10:33 PM   #93
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hahaha, youtube search these words: "adventure time"

make sure you watch to the end...
HAHAHA okay princess bubblegum what ever floats your boat. But seriously that crap scares me and dont see how its legal to be aired on national Television. WTF X1000000
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Old 02-01-2007, 12:00 AM   #94
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Nice, nice. That's a shitload of fab work. Good job.
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Old 02-01-2007, 06:23 AM   #95
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not a lot to report, just ground out some more rust. I'll probably be doing that today and tomorrow, don't expect a lot before then...
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Old 02-01-2007, 02:09 PM   #96
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yesterday, tonight, and tomorrow all look like they will be spent grinding rust and welding. Not a lot to report on that front.

However...



2 sets one for mockup/jig one for the final product.

1/4 Mild steel

1/2" 304SS

Compliments of Derrick Corporation. Holla.
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Old 02-04-2007, 02:49 AM   #97
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Ok, here's some body shots...

Before:




After:






A few blow holes, nothing that won't be taken care of with seam sealer, but all in all a good solid repair.

The last shot is a good comparison for everyone who thinks the shell is beat... See the rust at the bottom? That's one day of surface rust on 100% new metal... The camera REALLY makes it apparent... It's almost invisible to the naked eye... Same goes for a lot of the "rust" on the car...
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:37 AM   #98
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You should really hit it down with some rustoleum primer so it doesn't start rusting like that.

Nice work though, I'm gonna have to fix the floors in my 240 up (although they are not as bad) and this gave me a good idea of how to go about it. Just a quick question... did you make the replacement sheet of metal fit INTO the hole, then spot welded it, or did you make it bigger than the hole?
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Old 02-04-2007, 10:03 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt89
You should really hit it down with some rustoleum primer so it doesn't start rusting like that.

Nice work though, I'm gonna have to fix the floors in my 240 up (although they are not as bad) and this gave me a good idea of how to go about it. Just a quick question... did you make the replacement sheet of metal fit INTO the hole, then spot welded it, or did you make it bigger than the hole?

it's bigger than the hole. I am holding off on primer because i am waiting to get seam sealant first. I can just knock all that surface rust out with a wire wheel or sandblaster in a few minutes...
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Old 02-04-2007, 01:26 PM   #100
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Yea just as long as you dont leave it for weeks.
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Old 02-05-2007, 07:18 AM   #101
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Sunday...
Before:




After:




Only one more rust spot remains, then it's on to the manifold!
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:03 AM   #102
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Beautiful job getting the rust out. Definitely want to get some seam sealer since you're tacking those plates on, but that's no big deal - seems like you're making great time on it!
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:05 AM   #103
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damn man keep up the good work on this unique swap bro
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Old 02-05-2007, 11:45 AM   #104
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just ordered up some big wheels and fender flares...



17X10 and 17X8.5
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Old 02-07-2007, 06:39 AM   #105
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just dicking around, not the actual dimensions... yet:






Quote:
Originally Posted by focusinprogress
ok, for real......i tried doing a collector like that a while back with CAD and couldnt do it.......how did you do that?

That part actually only took about 20 minutes. It took me an hour or so to figure out the best way to constrain the elbows...

The way i set it up, I can simply enter a few constraints to my browser bar to adjust the runner length, until they are all equal, then I can actually drag the tubing around on the screen until it is packaged properly, all the while maintaining 100% tangential fitment.
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:08 AM   #106
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I want that program!

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Old 02-07-2007, 11:16 AM   #107
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Quote:
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I want that program!

Carlos

it's just autocad inventor. You can DL it anywhere... But learning to use it well... another story...
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:21 AM   #108
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yea autocad. i remember helping my friend in highskool with that. your design reminds me of that old skool game pipedreams. haha. your build is looking good so far. keep it up. can't wait for the end result.
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Old 02-08-2007, 10:49 PM   #109
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Ok, so... I finished all the tack welding on the floor... I received an offer from a guy at work to do the whole car, so as soon as i have it soda blasted, he is going to seam weld the chassis...

So, in the meantime, i picked up a can of this (ted nugent approved!):


It was 30 bucks a quart, I hope it works well...









I am just going to leave it like this until the underbody/bay/interior has been blasted...

Next, I built a jig to mount the turbo... Yes, i know what you are thinking about turbo inlets... the answer is MAYBE...





I included some frame reference planes and a motor mount clearance simulator, so that When i start drawing this in CAD, I will know what i need to avoid, without having to keep taking measurements on the car...




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Old 02-08-2007, 10:59 PM   #110
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nice

"Soda blasted"??? Was that a typo?
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Old 02-08-2007, 11:09 PM   #111
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Quote:
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nice

"Soda blasted"??? Was that a typo?
No typo, similar to bead blasting
http://www.sodaworks.com/

God, still following this thing
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Old 02-08-2007, 11:15 PM   #112
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oh haha
I learned something new. Yea me too, this is a great build thread with my fav "PICS"!
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Old 02-09-2007, 12:28 AM   #113
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nice
msglngth
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Old 02-09-2007, 09:05 PM   #114
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HOW DID YOU SPEND YOUR FRIDAY NIGHT? (5 hours work)

Schedule 10 304 SS.

Weight = 30.74 LBS...

Too bad I'm not baller enough to afford 321 thin wall... At 80 dollars for 180*, that's $1040 in tubing alone!!!! Yikes.













The green parts are constraints from the car itself. Here are the listings of the length of the runners:

Runner 1: 20.790
Runner 2: 20.861
Runner 3: 20.794
Runner 4: 20.759
Runner 5: 20.801
Runner 6: 20.786

Standard deviation: .033 (1/32)

Wastegate will probably be added after the fact...

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Old 02-09-2007, 09:17 PM   #115
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that shit would take me weeks to mock up in solidworks, props for that
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Old 02-09-2007, 09:35 PM   #116
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wow good build newman. cant wait to see this thing out in the summer.
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Old 02-09-2007, 10:38 PM   #117
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how many times did all the pieces explode while you were building that in solid works?

great job! cant wait to see this stuff built.
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Old 02-09-2007, 10:53 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazierhobo
how many times did all the pieces explode while you were building that in solid works?

great job! cant wait to see this stuff built.

it's autodesk inventor. It actually went very smoothly. About 50% of the time was spent adjusting the runner length... As long as everything is well constrained, it's not bad...

I learned a lot of tricks, i could probably do another in about half the time...
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Old 02-10-2007, 06:47 AM   #119
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tightening the nuts for the exhaust studs above the green hump is going to be fun.
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Old 02-10-2007, 09:15 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWolf
tightening the nuts for the exhaust studs above the green hump is going to be fun.

yeah, but that's what ratcheting wrenches are for...





I took a few minutes and made the collector pipes into flat patterns which i can print out on paper, wrap around a piece of straight pipe, then cut and grind:


QTY 2 up, QTY 2 down


QTY 2


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