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Old 03-01-2007, 10:10 AM   #31
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Can anyone point me to someone who will rent me their fender roller in the LA/OC area?
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:20 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift into a curb
It doesn't help if you drop the rear strut in most cases. That's only if you're car is too low and the roller wheel is only hitting the fender well and not the actual fender.

If you don't want the dent, you should consider not rolling it so high, maybe about only 1" to 1.5" high of the actual fender, so you decrease the area you're actually pulling. Also, don't get so angle happy. As someone pointed out, you're pushing the fender lip up, but not as much usable clearance.

Jung918 fenders are MAD ripply like mr. ripleys believe it or not. Tell brokeass to go a bit slower and work it over evenly. That reminds me of one of my first pulls and when I used a hammer to roll it.

And Yes, get wheels before the pull! People always want to pull but you should just roll your fenders first and then get your favorite wheels and test fit them to know how much you have to work.

Norm and I was going to go over to your pad to get it rolled/pulled. I gave you a call to try to set something up but you didn't pick up. Then you called me back and hung up before I could answer it. I tried calling you back but you hung up on me.

Like I said, the car is getting painted in a month. Even if I ordered the wheels I want today, it would take acouple of months to get here.
I will be test fitting a friends set of wheels. Never knew your guys worried so much about me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slideways2004
hahah, dude posted pics of his roll/pull and gets made of fun of b/c its all wrong.

your car doesn't look like it needs paint. you should've got wheels before you pulled and painted.
My world doesn't revolve around what people think.
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:05 PM   #33
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Next do a tutorial on the bat/pole/hammer method. =D
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:19 PM   #34
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Jung918, most likely I wasn't getting service. Therefore it just hangs up. But hey at least I tried to call back. At any rate, next time don't be afraid to leave a message. All Norm told me was he would get ahold of me in a couple weeks. I've known Norm awhile and wouldn't hesitate to help him or his friends out. Anyhow, body work will clear that right up, but I was just pointing out a)either the fenders were hammered and pulled (thus the uneven ripple) or b) he rolled pulled unevenly (too quickly).
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Old 03-01-2007, 06:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift into a curb
b) he rolled pulled unevenly (too quickly).
O, we took our sweet ass time on those fenders. It was dark, I rolled it as evenly as I could .

Quote:
Originally Posted by leonb2004
Next do a tutorial on the bat/pole/hammer method. =D
Someone's already done a hammer tutorial (quite nicely done too), a bat/pole one would be interesting. If it turns out better than using a roller, more power to them!
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Old 03-01-2007, 07:00 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift into a curb
Jung918, most likely I wasn't getting service. Therefore it just hangs up. But hey at least I tried to call back. At any rate, next time don't be afraid to leave a message. All Norm told me was he would get ahold of me in a couple weeks. I've known Norm awhile and wouldn't hesitate to help him or his friends out. Anyhow, body work will clear that right up, but I was just pointing out a)either the fenders were hammered and pulled (thus the uneven ripple) or b) he rolled pulled unevenly (too quickly).
Drift Into A Curb is stupid legit, best rolla in the OC/LA

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Old 03-01-2007, 08:35 PM   #37
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L-train knows whats up.

rob's s14

solo's s13

zach's fd (flat pull for stock look woo woo)


sorry for the thread jack brokeas240sx. its' cool you wrote up a tutorial, just keep rolling.
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Old 03-02-2007, 01:00 AM   #38
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The S14 is done especially nice. YOU should be the one doing the write up!!!
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Old 03-02-2007, 01:25 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonb2004
Next do a tutorial on the bat/pole/hammer method. =D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDTK9IjKIYU

video on the technique
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Old 03-02-2007, 11:17 PM   #40
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its like there speaking a different language!
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:11 AM   #41
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Im almost positive hes speaking german... i used to take it in highschool....hahah
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:32 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokeAs240sx View Post
Preventing Buckling... well, most of it anyway .

If any of you have tried to roll/flare your fenders, you know what a bummer it is when the fender buckles (almost inevitable for most 240's). I was able to fix mine w/ some new toys from Eastwood - inflatable dent poppers/removers. It gets rid of half to most of the buckle. Not perfect, but much better than doing nothing.

These pumps can also possibly be used before/during rolling/flaring to help prevent buckling, or at least keeping it to a minimal. However, I have not yet tried using it as a buckling preventer/inhibitor.

Total Project Time:
- Approximately 20-30 minutes, taking your sweet *** time

Equipment:
- Ratchet Set (10mm & 14mm)

- Heat gun (I used the Chicago Electric Adjustable Heat Gun from Harbor Freight), a hair dryer could also work but will be slower - recommended but not required

- Infrared Thermometer (not necessary, but highly recommended to prevent paint cracking)

- Inflatable Dent Remover/Poppers





Preparation:
- Locate buckle - say a final farewell to it.







Step 1: Remove Interior
- Remove your rear seat & rear quarter panels to allow access to the inside of the fender.





Step 2: Heat Up Fender
- Heating up the fenders (120-140 degrees as when rolling/flaring fenders) will help make the metal more maleable





Step 3: Pump and Sculpt
- Start pumping w/ either the large or small pump. It should pop the fender right out.

- Allow the fender to cool.

Step 4: Repeat and Alternate Pumps Used
- Deflate the pump.

- After the first time, some but not all of the buckle should be gone (depends on how badly you buckled the fender). "Heat-cycling" the fenders & pumping/popping it w/ the pump should start shaping the fender back to its original form. I did 3 cycles, which got rid of nearly all of the buckling. You can't really tell in the pictures, but a smaller less noticeable buckle is still there.

Step 5: Stuff It!
- When accessing the inside of the fender, you may have some foam cubes. You can reinsert and wedge these in between the fender and wheel well, which will help pop out some more of the remaining buckle. This isn't the professional way, but seems to work pretty well.



Step 6: Marvel at a Job Well Done
- YAY!






**** NOTE: I've unbuckled a few cars now, and it seems the fastback's buckle (depending on how bad it is), can possibly rebuckle after some driving. A possible solution to this is to insert something, such as foam sheets to help push against the fender once it's been unbuckled... think of it as sound deadening .

The coupe & other fastback done seem to have retained their shape after unbuckling for this past month.


I LEAVE AN INFLATED KICKBALL ON BOTH SIDES OF MINE!! Help when fat fucks lean on the QP
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:46 AM   #43
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good write up
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:47 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebayDM View Post
I LEAVE AN INFLATED KICKBALL ON BOTH SIDES OF MINE!! Help when fat fucks lean on the QP
I'm sure air will escape and kickball will shrink eventually, so there's no point leaving them there. I'd rather stuff that area with towels or something.
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Old 04-23-2009, 02:58 PM   #45
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I'd relieve the pressure/tension that caused the buckle in the first place.
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Old 04-23-2009, 05:06 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebayDM View Post
I LEAVE AN INFLATED KICKBALL ON BOTH SIDES OF MINE!! Help when fat fucks lean on the QP
Did you really have to do that. Not only did you quote an entire tutorial to say that, but you bumped a thread that hadn't been posted in for over an entire year to tell us that. WOW.
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:04 PM   #47
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OK, I looked through this thread, and know it's from like 2 years ago, but I do have a question about this.

I want to pull my fender starting from the crease line on the S13's body, and I'm wondering where I should start.

Start from the bottom? Or start from the top?

Here are a couple of pics of what I'm talking about...

Top:


Bottom:


I've got a propane torch that I'll be heating up the fenders with, just need to know how high I need to go to start off the flare/pull.

Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:16 PM   #48
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propane torch??!!!?

your a fool to use a flame to heat painted sheet metal.

even if you stay far enough away to not burn paint, bad idea
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:25 PM   #49
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ZOMG wtf happened here?

YouTube - Fender rolling first edit

That must have been a miracle nothing happened.
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:32 PM   #50
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Start from the top, and gradually come down. I don't have pics of, but that's the way I did mine.

I was going for a more subtle pull.

*edit

I was looking for the picture I had of Ito's 180. That is the look I was going for.
If you are unfamilar with the car, heres a vid...the red180sx.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fq0ImlHCkVU
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Old 12-19-2009, 11:57 PM   #51
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this thread is older than dirt

theres only 2 ways to learn to roll fenders like a g....
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Old 12-20-2009, 12:25 PM   #52
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this thread is older than dirt

theres only 2 ways to learn to roll fenders like a g....
Way to be helpful.
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Old 12-20-2009, 12:38 PM   #53
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Figured I'd add to this and quote something I write up a while ago. No pictures but whatever.

Quote:
Originally Posted by !Zar! View Post
Figured out I'll hook you all up with some tips/tricks on how to make your car less retarded in the wheel fitment category.

The PROPER way to do it is:

All work is done with a Eastwood fender roller.

1. Clean out the fender and lip that will be rolled.

2. Make sure you don't need to extend the coilover/disconnect it from the shock if your car is too low.

3*. Place blue painters tape around the area that will be rolled.

4. Heat the area that will be rolled to 120f~

5. With a Decent amount of angle in the roller head start slowly applying pressure to the lip so it can start to be pushed it.

6. Once the lip is up, straighten out the head.

7. Slowly start rolling from left to right, and adjust the roller in 1/4 increments. If you roll too fast, you might buckle the area around your roll.

8. Once finished, find a way to measure the angle of the roller.

9. Repeat on other side to the same angle of the other side and remove the painters tape.

10. Fuck bitches.

*Though I say to use painters tape while heating it to 120, I haven't tried burning the tape on the paint, "duh". But it will work and help control damage to the paint as long as you do as I say. The tape can also indicate if you are heating any particular area up too much by the tape starting to distort.

BONUS!!!

Since everyone is in SO much need to use the newspaper shit, what you are supposed to do is already have your fenders rolled.

1. With the rear off the ground, disconnect the rear shock.

2. Place 1/4in of a playboy mag, tranny's weekly, newspaper, whatever you have, all around the top of the tire.

3. Jack the wheel up/lower the car with the shock disconnected.

4. Lower jack and check for clearance.

5. Add more newspaper if fit isn't satisfactory.

6. Do same on other side.

7. Proceed to fuck more bitches.
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Old 12-20-2009, 01:09 PM   #54
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That's also good info Mel.

What I'm looking for is whether you guys that have some nice pulls started from the top, or started from the bottom up.

Also, I maxed out the angle on the roller as you could see in the pics I posted up... you guys think that's good enough?
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Old 12-20-2009, 01:22 PM   #55
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Well, first you need to start with folding the lip over. After that I try to get it as high as possible.

The lower you are, the more noticeable the flair will be. If you start higher, the transition to the bottom shouldn't be as noticeable. That way your body lines will look closer to stock yet you will be able to run bigger wheel/tire setups.

I've seen some people cut a slit in the inner fender so they can push out the QP from further up; like using a block of wood and a scissor jack or something... but I haven't really used that method yet being as how I rather not have to cut/weld if I'm running stock bodied.
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Old 12-20-2009, 01:26 PM   #56
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Yeah, if I'm gonna cut/weld, I would just run the over fenders that are propped on the car right now lol

I'm trying to not have to cut/weld if I can help it, so if this pull doesn't work, then I can still use the over fenders as back up, but I just don't want to have to deal with all that work.
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