Z32 Brake problem

[kandyflip445]

Originally posted by bbp
I have used Hawk pads in my cars for years. The blues are definately harsh for street use but their HP+ or HPS are great pads!

BTW: brake fluid can be any color the manufactuer decides to color it. Don't worry about what color it is. The different colors are helpful when flushing a system. If you have golden color fluid, it is easy to tell whne it has been replaced when the new color starts to flow into you bleeder bottle.

WRONG!!!!!
PAY ATTENTION NOW!
ALL DOT3 AND 4 brake fluids are amber. ALL DOT5 brake fluids are PURPLE! The manufactures make them this color so you are able to distinguish them from each other. If your fluid is suppposed to be amber and it isn't then you should change it anyways. Your fluid can become a brown color if it is old, worn, or contaminated.

[tnord]

Originally posted by Jeff240sx
I am running Hawk HP. They should be the most gentle on my rotors, but they suck IMO. I want my EBCs back.
-Jeff

there are two different HP's.....HPS, and HP+, one is definitely harsher on rotors than the other.......or so i'm told.

[MovinUp-1]

Hawk Black???

Yes there is a Hawk Black. It's a race pad like the Hawk blue but is meant for a lower temperature. Sometimes cars run Hawk blues on the front and Hawk blacks on the rear to help with balance.

I suspect you may have a piston in the caliper that is seized.

That is my thought as well. Your pads should not be smoking like that. check to see if they are glazed and if the rotors look blue. When you first take the wheel off try to turn the rotors by hand to see if there is any binding. If one side is really hard to turn then you may have a stuck piston.

Allen

[mbmbmb23]

When installing the rotors, dont touch the face...the oils in your skin will mess with the surface. You should wipe the rotors with brake cleaner before installing them. I'd also wipe the face of the brake pads.

Did you upgrade to SS lines all around?... or just in the front?

Are the calipers installed correctly...with the bleeders on the top? If not, the initial bleed probably did nothing for you. This happened to someone on here before.

EBC brake pads (green and red) are available on www.tirerack.com . Also...there are 2 different Hawk pads....both less expensive than the EBC.

If you upgrade to the Z32 MC, a new one from Nissan is $175, or used from the junkyard (maybe $35??).

-m

[BadMoJo]

Everything is installed correctly, trust me. I will take a look at it tomorrow sometime. I will post what i find.

[uuninja]

Originally posted by tnord
Hawk Black???

i know there are Hawk Blues, but do you mean the HP+'s?? cause i have they HPS (they are black) and aren't too bad on the rotors.

Nope, I ment Hawk Blacks, they are a lower friction/heat pad than the blues.

Check out this link. http://www.hawkperformance.com/material_description.cfm

[uuninja]

Originally posted by kandyflip445
WRONG!!!!!
PAY ATTENTION NOW!
ALL DOT3 AND 4 brake fluids are amber. ALL DOT5 brake fluids are PURPLE! The manufactures make them this color so you are able to distinguish them from each other. If your fluid is suppposed to be amber and it isn't then you should change it anyways. Your fluid can become a brown color if it is old, worn, or contaminated.

Whoa take it down a notch, bro.

Especially since it is you that is wrong.

Case in point ATE Super Blue vs. ATE Type 200 Gold. Both DOT4 Both have a dry boiling point of 280°C (536°F); wet boiling point of 200°C ( 392°F). Both are suitable for all brake and clutch systems rated for DOT brake fluids. The only difference in these two fluids is the blue or gold color. Many manufacturers are marketing amber racing fluid for street/track cars so that know-nothing state inspection techs don't fail you for having put "anti freeze in your brakes".

[bbp]

easy there...

http://www.volvospeed.com/Reviews/ate.htm (first site that came up in yahoo, but makes the point)

this is not dot5 and it is BLUE.here is a good link to a good friend's site that may help in your decision as to which fluid to run.

http://www.kryderacing.com/misc/brakequestions.htm



ps. happy holidays!

[kandyflip445]

Alright I was wrong about the color. But that's what I was taught...
But all of your guys' fluids that you are mentioning are specialty fluids?

[bbp]

I guess it could be called specialty fluid, my point is don't buy fluid based on color or DOT rating, buy based on your needs. I personally use Ford Heavy Duty Brake fluid from the ford dealer. It is cheap, it works great in my race car (have never boiled it yet) and did I mention it is cheap? BUT, the fluid for the focus is silicone so be aware when you go to the dealer and place your order.

no sweat kandy, just less 'tude unless ur 100% absolutely positivly sure u r correct before blasting "WRONG!!!!! PAY ATTENTION NOW!"

happy holidays!!!

[uiuc240]

Originally posted by Jeff240sx
A lot of people do not suggest replacing the MC with a z32 MC, because of the brake bias. I think that idiots have a mushy pedal, due to improper bleeding during the install and air getting in, or bad fluid mixing with new fluid from not bleeding the system. Everyone that has ever been in my car mentions how firm and responsive my brakes are.
The z32 MC swap should only be done on a car with a 4 wheel brake swap, because the z32 MC will give too much bias on the stock rear brakes, and spin out the car. That is the popular thought on FA right now.
BadMoJo... didn't I suggest EBC pads? Anyway, I hope that it's the fluid or bleeding so you don't have to buy new pads again. It really does suck bieng broke.
-Jeff

Part of the reason your setup is firm is that you have an S14...on an S13 non-ABS car, the stock master is only 7/8"...tiny. My pedal is FIRM, but it has about 1" of slop at the top. It's not a bleeding issue. Braking is good, it's just gotta move all that fluid first (hence the upgrade to 17/16" Z MC). Just FYI.

Eric

[Grant]

Badmojo, didnt you mention earlier this month that one of your brake lines had cracked? Could it be another one? anyways check for the most minute leaks if possible.

I would not think metal masters would fade and I've know people that have driven their cars much harder than you have described and have not had this problem. I know I havent, just took my car into the mountains tonight. (80-100 mi of twisties, and a lot of braking due to slow SUV's).


Try to re-bleed your system with a check valve, that is all I can think of.

and guys, whats up with the brake fluid colors? I think it just depends on manufacturer? What if the brake fluid was the color of piss? (because my fluid is, and thats how it came out of the bottle). And what if the motor oil in my looked like grape juice? (because thats the type of motor oil I use).

[HippoSleek]

I'll quietly voice my agreement w/ kandy's earlier statement about all DOT 3 & 4 fluids being amber. I use Super Blue, I love Super Blue, but last I knew Super Blue was NOT DOT 4. It was "equivolent" (or some such disclaimer) - but not actually DOT. I think law requires DOT fluids to be amber (I actually heard someone somewhere being failed or questioned in an annual inspection b/c they had in blue - the guy didn't want to pass the car w/o replacing the fluid).

Matt- are you running the blacks on the street? Seems like a lot of unnecessary rotor wear.

Jeff - give me a set of EBCs (green or red) and I will return you a set of backing plates in one track weekend.

[bbp]

ok, the law is the law, i stand corrected. kandy, your on top of your game!

[Grant]

I am above the law!!!!

actually, some fluids (like project mu) dont have a DOT rating on them. But regardless what the law says, I guess for the people who would like to be real careful, you need to check the contents of the fluid rather than only look for DOT rating..

[uuninja]

Originally posted by HippoSleek
I use Super Blue, I love Super Blue, but last I knew Super Blue was NOT DOT 4. It was "equivolent" (or some such disclaimer) - but not actually DOT.

Matt- are you running the blacks on the street? Seems like a lot of unnecessary rotor wear.

Humm I still ahve a few of the cans left. I will read the bottle mananna. I am curious now.

Oh and no I don't run blacks on the street. The car has been garaged for the winter ever since Summit Point in November. I did drive the Blacks home from the track, but it was friggen getting dark by the time we were done with our last session. Call me lazy but I didn't want to swap my pads in the dark.

[240 2NR]

Wihout reading all replies, here's my take:

FADE= bad brake fluid. DOT 3 or 4 should not be spongy after only a few stops, even if it's cheap. It sounds old and damp to me. Flush and refill now. Castrol GTLMA, Valvoline synpower, or ATE superblue have all worked well for me (those are also in price asending order). Avoid DOT 5. It's silicone based and intended for very specific applications. It's actually less abrasive than regualr brake fluid and is often used in antique cars that are rarely run and have delicate lines. DOT5.1 is good stuff, use with confidence.

SMOKE= new pads have resins and adhesives that generally burn off in intial stopping. Sounds like you skipped the break in and this was their first work out. Likely this is just a normal occurance and should not happen again. If it persists, you have problems. Also if your rotors had oil on them (to prevent rust while in storage, not used on plated rotors) and you didn't clean it off before the install, that could easily be your problem.