Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[e30gangsta]

Hey guys I have an s13 silvia thats missing the cruise control buttons on the cluster surround. Is there anywhere I can look on the car where I can confirm this car came with cruise control? Like a relay, fuse or something? Everything is in japanese so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by e30gangsta

Hey guys I have an s13 silvia thats missing the cruise control buttons on the cluster surround. Is there anywhere I can look on the car where I can confirm this car came with cruise control? Like a relay, fuse or something? Everything is in japanese so any help would be greatly appreciated.

do you have a cruise control unit under your hood? if so, thats a sure fire way to tell... cant miss it! giant cylinder looking thing with a wire coming out of it that runs to the throttle body (youll have TWO cables running to the throttle total).

[e30gangsta]

I will check it next time I head to the shop thanks dude!

[Jo_Galezo]

What does everyone use for an alarm system? I live in nyc so people are always sitting on my car/hitting it. I need something that’ll activate for movement, but not much noise since it’s always super loud. Any thing would help thank you


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[R3b]

Originally Posted by Jo_Galezo

What does everyone use for an alarm system?

I did a compustar system in my car, together was like 330ish and I did it myself. Wasnt hard to do if you look through the manual. It should be done by a "professional" but I bought it off some New York ebay seller which the kit isnt for resale but only distributor install. AFAIK for a place to install it would be 700-1k to do it since it has everything. I like this one over viper because key fobs are better and the GPS system they use for an app is much cleaner and I think monthly is cheaper than viper. Has movement sensor which is pretty sensitive, titl sensor if someone lifts up your car and has remote start and for me is awesome. I start my car about 3 blocks away and come to it already warm ready to drive since you're not supposed to drive cold engines with forged pistons since they haven't expanded enough.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-COMPUST...gAAOSwHMJYJjdC

[Jo_Galezo]

Originally Posted by R3b

I did a compustar system in my car, together was like 330ish and I did it myself. Wasnt hard to do if you look through the manual. It should be done by a "professional" but I bought it off some New York ebay seller which the kit isnt for resale but only distributor install. AFAIK for a place to install it would be 700-1k to do it since it has everything. I like this one over viper because key fobs are better and the GPS system they use for an app is much cleaner and I think monthly is cheaper than viper. Has movement sensor which is pretty sensitive, titl sensor if someone lifts up your car and has remote start and for me is awesome. I start my car about 3 blocks away and come to it already warm ready to drive since you're not supposed to drive cold engines with forged pistons since they haven't expanded enough.

Woaahh dm me pls lol @gvlzo on ig ❤️


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[PatPs13]

Is it possible to replace just the resistor and fuel level float instead of the whole fuel sending unit? I can't find much info on this.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by PatPs13

Is it possible to replace just the resistor and fuel level float instead of the whole fuel sending unit? I can't find much info on this.

All electronics are repairable if you know what you're doing. The problem is sourcing individual components. Always easier to find the entire assembly.

[EFITTZY]

Originally Posted by PatPs13

Is it possible to replace just the resistor and fuel level float instead of the whole fuel sending unit? I can't find much info on this.

Yeah It's possible. If you are still running the original oe fuel pump, you might as well go ahead and replace the sending unit while you are in there getting high huffing gas fumes

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

All electronics are repairable if you know what you're doing. The problem is sourcing individual components. Always easier to find the entire assembly.

Replacement parts for the distributor? You know, like the discharge capacitor that sits on the side with a single wire? Cap and rotor are easy, electronics though...

[joey240sx01]

I've done my research and I'm still on a ledge. Ka or sr? I've got a shell at the moment, I've read all over about the better displacement of a ka and how it spoils faster, as well as how the sr can be more reliable. I just can't really decide, can anyone help? I'm 14, but it'll probably hit the track sometime. It's as of right now going to be a daily do keep that in mind too.

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[oLemurs]

Originally Posted by joey240sx01

I've done my research and I'm still on a ledge. Ka or sr? I've got a shell at the moment, I've read all over about the better displacement of a ka and how it spoils faster, as well as how the sr can be more reliable. I just can't really decide, can anyone help? I'm 14, but it'll probably hit the track sometime. It's as of right now going to be a daily do keep that in mind too.

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theres a reason why so many choose an SR. the real question is how much horsepower do you want? if you want 200-350 you can go with an SR, if you want 300-400 you can go with a KA. with a KA you are 100% going to need a rebuild if you want it to last more than a few months. SR's were built for boost and many people say they get 350 with a bigger turbo, more fuel and a good tune (along with supporting mods) IMO sr20 > KA
Forgot to mention if 140 horsepower is fine with you and its your daily just go with a KA

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by oLemurs

theres a reason why so many choose an SR. the real question is how much horsepower do you want? if you want 200-350 you can go with an SR, if you want 300-400 you can go with a KA. with a KA you are 100% going to need a rebuild if you want it to last more than a few months. SR's were built for boost and many people say they get 350 with a bigger turbo, more fuel and a good tune (along with supporting mods) IMO sr20 > KA
Forgot to mention if 140 horsepower is fine with you and its your daily just go with a KA

How about stock reliability, superb parts availability, and find a VQ?

VQ > KA > SR

[kojiki88]

Hello everyone, Im ready to buy a clutch for my SR20VET setup. Mazworx Built and assembled motor, Precision Turbo SP Gen 2 Billet CEA 5862 Ball Bearing turbo running it at 18-20 PSI(whatever it makes at the PSI) I have the supporting fuel system for this setup. I am also looking for a clutch that will give me more leg room if I want to raise boost later down the road.
I was looking at getting the Competition twin plate clutch kit but I've seen most websites say only for the 5 Speed sr20det transmission. Would I be able to run a z32 or z33 tranny on that clutch? I will be running the stock tranny for now just to break in motor and dyno tune purposes and for a few months to gather the cash to buy the Mazworx adapter kit and get a transmission. Any advice would be very well appreciated, thank you.

[MaverickLeader]

I'm currently looking for examples of S13 hatches with kouki aero on the sides and rear, but a sharknose/pignose front. Odd request, I know, but I just want to see some examples out of curiosity. I have kouki stuff for my car that I haven't put on yet, but I was just wondering what a sharknose front would look like with kouki aero, seeing as I have a Xenon lip laying around.

[derass]

Originally Posted by kojiki88

Hello everyone, Im ready to buy a clutch for my SR20VET setup. Mazworx Built and assembled motor, Precision Turbo SP Gen 2 Billet CEA 5862 Ball Bearing turbo running it at 18-20 PSI(whatever it makes at the PSI) I have the supporting fuel system for this setup. I am also looking for a clutch that will give me more leg room if I want to raise boost later down the road.
I was looking at getting the Competition twin plate clutch kit but I've seen most websites say only for the 5 Speed sr20det transmission. Would I be able to run a z32 or z33 tranny on that clutch? I will be running the stock tranny for now just to break in motor and dyno tune purposes and for a few months to gather the cash to buy the Mazworx adapter kit and get a transmission. Any advice would be very well appreciated, thank you.

The Mazworx SRVQ bellhousing uses the 5-spd SR flywheel and clutch. Give this thread a read, post #55 in particular.

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=625729

[VTEC_lol]

I’m at a loss with my car, I have the notchtop SR20 and it hesitates very bad @4000-5000rpm when accelerating, I had code 34 and replaced the knock sensor and now I have no fault codes at all but still it hesitates. A/F shows 17-20 when its bogging so its lean as shit. What could cause this? Plugs are fine, fuel filter is new, maf is fine, o2 sensors are new, fpr is new, etc. I dont think ecu is in fail safe mode since it doesnt throw any codes.
E: but it accelerates fine after getting past 5k rpm

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

I’m at a loss with my car, I have the notchtop SR20 and it hesitates very bad @4000-5000rpm when accelerating, I had code 34 and replaced the knock sensor and now I have no fault codes at all but still it hesitates. A/F shows 17-20 when its bogging so its lean as shit. What could cause this? Plugs are fine, fuel filter is new, maf is fine, o2 sensors are new, fpr is new, etc. I dont think ecu is in fail safe mode since it doesnt throw any codes.
E: but it accelerates fine after getting past 5k rpm

do you have a fuel pressure gauge in the car? what kind of pump do you have? when was the last time you checked for boost leaks? when was the last time you cleaned your MAF? are you using t-bolt clamps or screw clamps? whats the voltage like on your TPS?

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

do you have a fuel pressure gauge in the car? what kind of pump do you have? when was the last time you checked for boost leaks? when was the last time you cleaned your MAF? are you using t-bolt clamps or screw clamps? whats the voltage like on your TPS?

I do but its under the hood, I should try to record it somehow, 255 walbro, 2 days ago, last month cleaned maf, t-bolt clamps, 4,2 wot and IIRC 0,2 on idle

[DJTTon]

Does anyone know where I can grab a Gas Tank O-ring gasket for the S14 gas tank -the one that goes in between the lid and where the fuelpump is in the back- part # 17342-5M303 without spending an equivalent amount in value on shipping?

I mean come on, its a rubber o-ring. why is shipping 10$...

[brokeboi01]

Buddy of mine who has a 240 himself decided to install a ka24de s13 VSS in my sr20det trans while I was out of town. He did this by cutting off the heads and just soldering the wires together (black to black, green to green/yellow). Generous of him to help but the problem is now my speed doesn’t even work. Previously had an s14 vss hooked properly to the speed cluster harness and the speed although not accurate, did work. Does it matter if the female and male heads are cut and just have the wires soldered?


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[brokeboi01]

Originally Posted by brokeboi01

Buddy of mine who has a 240 himself decided to install a ka24de s13 VSS in my sr20det trans while I was out of town. He did this by cutting off the heads and just soldering the wires together (black to black, green to green/yellow). Generous of him to help but the problem is now my speed doesn’t even work. Previously had an s14 vss hooked properly to the speed cluster harness and the speed although not accurate, did work. Does it matter if the female and male heads are cut and just have the wires soldered?


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Nvm problem solved, shit works


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[derass]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

I do but it's under the hood, I should try to record it somehow

I assume it's on an adjustable FPR? Just get a cheap mechanical pressure guage, use that instead, and tape it to your wiper arm. That way you can see the fuel pressure under load. Maybe you can even rig something up with the gauge you have, like a section of hose and some barb fittings.

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by derass

I assume it's on an adjustable FPR? Just get a cheap mechanical pressure guage, use that instead, and tape it to your wiper arm. That way you can see the fuel pressure under load. Maybe you can even rig something up with the gauge you have, like a section of hose and some barb fittings.

No its a tapped gauge on the fuel filter hose, I thought about removing the hood and putting a gopro in the fender to see the gauge, but I could just modify the gauge hose or something. Gotta see what pressure I get under load

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Does anyone know where I can grab a Gas Tank O-ring gasket for the S14 gas tank -the one that goes in between the lid and where the fuelpump is in the back- part # 17342-5M303 without spending an equivalent amount in value on shipping?

I mean come on, its a rubber o-ring. why is shipping 10$...

Hit up your local hydraulics repair shop. They have o rings in tons of sizes

[DJTTon]

Anyone have any recommendations for an all weatherproof car cover for the 240sx? Just trying to see how much something like that would cost in general. Currently scoped out weathertech and its 520$, is that the market price for a cover like that?

[jbrowne]

Hey,

I've been searching for awhile and cant seem to figure out the best fitting spark plug wires for an LS2 coil pack conversion on my SR20. I've read 91 accord wires fit well but I want to be sure as this will be my third time returning a set. Surprisingly enough i found everything i needed for this swap on here including all wiring ect except what plug wires people prefer..

Thanks,

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Anyone have any recommendations for an all weatherproof car cover for the 240sx? Just trying to see how much something like that would cost in general. Currently scoped out weathertech and its 520$, is that the market price for a cover like that?

https://www.sealskincovers.com/index...2-door-9559158

Originally Posted by jbrowne

Hey,

I've been searching for awhile and cant seem to figure out the best fitting spark plug wires for an LS2 coil pack conversion on my SR20. I've read 91 accord wires fit well but I want to be sure as this will be my third time returning a set. Surprisingly enough i found everything i needed for this swap on here including all wiring ect except what plug wires people prefer..

Thanks,

Call, and have the pro's set you up something that will be done right. Make sure you measure the length of each wire so you have these available.

http://www.taylorvertex.com/Contact/

[VTEC_lol]

I have been trying to figure this out for a long time now, my car goes lean as shit on 4000 rpm or 5000rpm and I haven't yet figured out why.
So far I tried
Cleaning MAF
Upgrading FPR
Cleaning ign coils
Changed spark plugs
Changed O2 sensor
Changed fuel filter

I have a pic of my driving on full throttle and as you maybe can see here is where the engine cuts and goes lean on both gears. (if anyone can figure out anything in this picture)
Black = RPM
Dark blue = Air Flow
Light gray = Injectors
Dark gray = Timing
Blue = AAC

It seems that every time AAC rises, the car hesitates and stalls just then, could that be it? Or is it just a coincidence?
There are no fault codes either
E: also it's an SR20, just in case

[mau5trap]

Can I get a price check..

How much are S14 T28 Ball Bearing Turbo "USED" going for right now?