Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by slidins13s

That's what I fiugred but I cant even seem to find any 8 wides with negative offset.

I've seen 15x9's with negative offset. Other than that there's not much to chose from. Everyone runs a wider wheel instead of skinny wheels with super low offset. That's really the whole point of widebody, to get wider wheels to fit. I don't even worry what my car looks like drifting. Steelies all day on the track. As long as it looks good on the street i'm happy.

[t_rempel]

Thanks to everyone who helped out with my exhaust question! I got way more info than I was even hoping for!!

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Thedriftbadger

Basically they just stop the clunk. You still get the movement cause your bushings are still rubber. You'll get a month of time with these before the noise get's worse and you have to change the bushings. The only correct way to fix the subframe bushings is with new bushings. The collars just get rid of the gap so it doesn't make noise.

But, someone must make some that entirely bridge the gap, so that it can't clunk, regardless of the state of the rubber underneath? If I'm making sense to anyone but me.

Maybe I'll get the collars, and if the clunk returns, pack silicone caulk on the bushings, and then just put the collar back on.....

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

But, someone must make some that entirely bridge the gap, so that it can't clunk, regardless of the state of the rubber underneath? If I'm making sense to anyone but me.

Maybe I'll get the collars, and if the clunk returns, pack silicone caulk on the bushings, and then just put the collar back on.....

The collars fill the void in the factory bushings. The factory bushings loose their elasticity. Causing the sub-frame movement to exceed their limits. The collars reduce the movement.

They don't really affect the ductility or stiffness of the bushing.

After I put new OEM bushings in I was happy with the feedback. I still had a clunk when backing up as the sub-frame shifts the load from reverse to forward. Putting collars in reduced the limits. Rear end didn't droop when unsupported anymore. Didn't notice an increase in NHV. But, no more clunking.

[slidins13s]

Originally Posted by Thedriftbadger

I've seen 15x9's with negative offset. Other than that there's not much to chose from. Everyone runs a wider wheel instead of skinny wheels with super low offset. That's really the whole point of widebody, to get wider wheels to fit. I don't even worry what my car looks like drifting. Steelies all day on the track. As long as it looks good on the street i'm happy.

true man, thanks for the input.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by S14DB

The collars fill the void in the factory bushings. The factory bushings loose their elasticity. Causing the sub-frame movement to exceed their limits. The collars reduce the movement.

They don't really affect the ductility or stiffness of the bushing.

After I put new OEM bushings in I was happy with the feedback. I still had a clunk when backing up as the sub-frame shifts the load from reverse to forward. Putting collars in reduced the limits. Rear end didn't droop when unsupported anymore. Didn't notice an increase in NHV. But, no more clunking.

Just to touch on this more. The subframe bushings lose their elasticity so much that they crack the rubber around the center section where it's bolted through. It can be so severe that there is nothing holding/supporting the front subframe portion other than the nut and washer. If this is the case, collars only band aid it because you're simply putting a thicker washer in to help reduce the amount of flex, as S14DB and the Badger have both stated.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

But, someone must make some that entirely bridge the gap, so that it can't clunk, regardless of the state of the rubber underneath? If I'm making sense to anyone but me.

Maybe I'll get the collars, and if the clunk returns, pack silicone caulk on the bushings, and then just put the collar back on.....

Your bushings are shot man, no one makes a bushing that takes all the slop out, especially on completely deteoriated bushings. Do it right, "packing it with silicone caulk" is a ghetto ass fix, another common problem and apparently epidemic in the S-chassis world.

[maces13]

Anybody know the CORRECT thread pitch/size of the screws that hold the plastic spark plug cover on? It's a S14 SR, (same one in my signature), don't think it's different between engine types but just to be specific. Thanks dudes

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by S14DB

The collars fill the void in the factory bushings. The factory bushings loose their elasticity. Causing the sub-frame movement to exceed their limits. The collars reduce the movement.

They don't really affect the ductility or stiffness of the bushing.

After I put new OEM bushings in I was happy with the feedback. I still had a clunk when backing up as the sub-frame shifts the load from reverse to forward. Putting collars in reduced the limits. Rear end didn't droop when unsupported anymore. Didn't notice an increase in NHV. But, no more clunking.

I swapped out my cradle bushings with the Energy Suspension kits(well shop did the rear, and the body shop did the fronts after the wreck) The difference in the rears was phenomenally better. No rock at all on accel/decel or reverse to forward when backing out of a driveway, parking spot w/e. I expect that when I get it back on the road in the next two weeks(pleas oh please oh please Goddess of Speed let it be in time for IA!) it should have some pretty nice handling(parts car had fairly new GR2's with Tein gold springs...better than what was on it)

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Your bushings are shot man, no one makes a bushing that takes all the slop out, especially on completely deteoriated bushings. Do it right, "packing it with silicone caulk" is a ghetto ass fix, another common problem and apparently epidemic in the S-chassis world.

Do it right, or sell the car to someone who will and go buy a Honda Civic if you want to do ghetto repairs

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Your bushings are shot man, no one makes a bushing that takes all the slop out, especially on completely deteoriated bushings. Do it right, "packing it with silicone caulk" is a ghetto ass fix, another common problem and apparently epidemic in the S-chassis world.

I'm not talking about cutting, or otherwise damaging anything.

I'm specifically NOT burning my subframe (good-bye heat treating), so that I can, when I have time and a big enough press, get aluminium bushings. Go get on people who think a blowtorch is how you remove bushings, or the retarded companies that make bushings specifically to fit in the remnants of half-removed, blowtorched bushings.


So with all due respect, go fuck yourself. I need something to make my car drivable without hammering the whole rear end every time I start from a standstill, until I can do the whole job. Caulk won't kill the car, or hurt anything in any way.

As it doesn't seem that anyone makes these, I'm considering trying to make it steel inserts that crush into the bushing, and do make it totally solid by bridging the gap between the two metal pieces of the bushing with a bit of epoxy to hold them in place and prevent even minor movement or chattering, without any damage to the subframe, or to any part except the already-shot bushings.

[TheRealSy90]

Just get solid bushings you twat. The factory subframe isn't "heat treated" and people have been doing them forever with no problems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

I'm not talking about cutting, or otherwise damaging anything.

I'm specifically NOT burning my subframe (good-bye heat treating), so that I can, when I have time and a big enough press, get aluminium bushings. Go get on people who think a blowtorch is how you remove bushings, or the retarded companies that make bushings specifically to fit in the remnants of half-removed, blowtorched bushings.


So with all due respect, go fuck yourself. I need something to make my car drivable without hammering the whole rear end every time I start from a standstill, until I can do the whole job. Caulk won't kill the car, or hurt anything in any way.

As it doesn't seem that anyone makes these, I'm considering trying to make it steel inserts that crush into the bushing, and do make it totally solid by bridging the gap between the two metal pieces of the bushing with a bit of epoxy to hold them in place and prevent even minor movement or chattering, without any damage to the subframe, or to any part except the already-shot bushings.

Seems logical, just like your hypothesis that oil vapor doesn't dilute your octane rating and your claim that AKI and Octane are two completely different things. You're a fucking idiot, plain and simple, no reason to get butthurt about it, it's inherently bred into you.

Here's an idea, buy the parts you need and take a weekend fix your POS.

[VNG704]

Ah yes Zilvia. Lol, these guys are helpful and demeaning at the same time.

Originally Posted by maces13

Anybody know the CORRECT thread pitch/size of the screws that hold the plastic spark plug cover on? It's a S14 SR, (same one in my signature), don't think it's different between engine types but just to be specific. Thanks dudes

Google works. SR coil pack cover bolts - Nissan 240SX Forums

[acslater9]

How many of you guys daily drive your 240sx? Or do you just use it on the weekends?

And If you're wondering why I'm asking this is because I'm curious.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Just get solid bushings you twat. The factory subframe isn't "heat treated" and people have been doing them forever with no problems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

People have been doing all sorts of incorrect things forever.

It's rather ironic that you're chamipining doing things the right way..... but totally okay with doing it the absolute wrong way, and burning out press-fit bushings.

If the subframe's not heat treated, it's because you fucked it up with a blowtorch. ALL steel is inherently heat treated, how it's heated and how it cools effects it's ductility, brittleness, elasticity, fatigue, etc.

I bet you also blowtorch your suspension bolts, and reuse them....

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Seems logical, just like your hypothesis that oil vapor doesn't dilute your octane rating and your claim that AKI and Octane are two completely different things. You're a fucking idiot, plain and simple, no reason to get butthurt about it, it's inherently bred into you.

Here's an idea, buy the parts you need and take a weekend fix your POS.

Octane=family of chemicals. AKI = anti-knock index.

Guess that's just bred into me. But unlike you, I've got shit to do, and won't have more than a few hours at a time for months, while needing my car daily.

According to technotoy tuning, their collars contact the metal rings on both sides of the bushings. Going to try them, and if they are not preforming well at the end of the semester when I've got the time, I'll press in hard rubber or aluminium.

[maces13]

Originally Posted by VNG704

Ah yes Zilvia. Lol, these guys are helpful and demeaning at the same time.

Google works. SR coil pack cover bolts - Nissan 240SX Forums

Yea but this was so much more direct. Def helpful thanks bro.

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Octane=family of chemicals. AKI = anti-knock index.

moron you seriously need to get your sh1t in order before calling out others. octane is not a family of chemicals. octane is a alkane containing 8 carbon atoms.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

How many of you guys daily drive your 240sx? Or do you just use it on the weekends?

And If you're wondering why I'm asking this is because I'm curious.

That DD you see people using usually applies to other cars as a daily driven, however, here in the S Chassis community it means Daily DRIFTED! Yes, I mean really, who here drives their car every day and DOESN'T find some little sweet spot where the pedal slips a bit, the steering turns just a little deeper, the back end starts to slide just right, then BAM, clutch kickin, tail slidin, panty droppin FUN!

I mean it's like I don't have my own private little side road spot that has a couple hills, and a three esse line or anything and just happens to be between a main road and the road to my house or anything

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by inopsey

moron you seriously need to get your sh1t in order before calling out others. octane is not a family of chemicals. octane is a alkane containing 8 carbon atoms.

Right you are.

Nevertheless, it's not AKI, simply a chemical that is related to it, as are dozens of others, from benzine to tetraethyl lead.

[S14DB]

Octane - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Octane rating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Now, STFU...

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by inopsey

moron you seriously need to get your sh1t in order before calling out others. octane is not a family of chemicals. octane is a alkane containing 8 carbon atoms.

Originally Posted by S14DB

Octane - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Octane rating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Now, STFU...

"Octanes are a family of hydrocarbon that are typical components of gasoline"


Hmm.

Anyway, you seem to have missed the octane/aki/motor oil discussion. Simply, having octane an a component is no guarantee of AKI, or lack thereof. ie. ethanol, with NO octane, greatly raising AKI.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

"Octanes are a family of hydrocarbon that are typical components of gasoline"


Hmm.

Anyway, you seem to have missed the octane/aki/motor oil discussion. Simply, having octane an a component is no guarantee of AKI, or lack thereof. ie. ethanol, with NO octane, greatly raising AKI.

You seemed to have missed the part where I told you to stop.

[Magoo1222]

I must have missed the part where I time travelled back to preschool. this thread was doing so good

[Magoo1222]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

That DD you see people using usually applies to other cars as a daily driven, however, here in the S Chassis community it means Daily DRIFTED! Yes, I mean really, who here drives their car every day and DOESN'T find some little sweet spot where the pedal slips a bit, the steering turns just a little deeper, the back end starts to slide just right, then BAM, clutch kickin, tail slidin, panty droppin FUN!

I mean it's like I don't have my own private little side road spot that has a couple hills, and a three esse line or anything and just happens to be between a main road and the road to my house or anything

I drifted on my way to the store once.... until hicas decided to correct me and almost threw me into a guard rail

[juhd]

what rims are these?

[jr_ss]

Use the identify this thread...

[Nissansota240]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

what rims are these?

Leon hardiritt orden One of my favorite rims

[salemboy19]

Just wondering what you guys do to protect your FMIC from getting beat up from bumps in the road and such? I'm not even that low and the bottom of my intercoolers is taking a beating. Any suggestions besides avoid the bumps, because I try to?

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by salemboy19

Just wondering what you guys do to protect your FMIC from getting beat up from bumps in the road and such? I'm not even that low and the bottom of my intercoolers is taking a beating. Any suggestions besides avoid the bumps, because I try to?

mount it higher