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Old 09-25-2013, 06:41 AM   #61
S14_kouki504
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very nice build. i've always liked the way the VQ's sound
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:37 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taneal1 View Post
Hi, I have a '97 240SX with a VQ35HR engine and a Stack 8130 display. The 8130 "Engine Speed" cable is connected to pin #110 on the ECU. The tach reads zero RPM under all conditions. I have not yet installed a "pull-up" resistor.

I would be grateful if you could tell me how you got your Stack tach to function.

Thanks for any info!

Tom
For some reason I thought you were asking this question on the VQ Swap Info thread. Sorry buddy, I don't have a stack on my setup. Maybe PM someone if they were talking about it.

And in other news:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTydwBhPRts

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Old 12-06-2013, 02:11 PM   #63
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^^^ that sounds so good!!! Great work
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Old 12-06-2013, 02:27 PM   #64
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I hope you kept that Nismo #120 badge... doing what you said by putting it in the car on a "powered by" plaque would be legendary.
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:29 PM   #65
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I hope you kept that Nismo #120 badge... doing what you said by putting it in the car on a "powered by" plaque would be legendary.
I'm looking to get a "Powered by" die cut decal made for my rad support. My sticker guy is flaking out ATM.




So, lots of stuff to report. Loving the car! I pretty much daily'ed the car from the time it left the garage. It got a lot of attention at a local Cars & Coffee. I was enjoying just driving the car. Interiors are for schmucks anyway.






Had some time to help some friends. Lots of cars passing through the garage; Maximas (brakes, pulleys, hubs), a 350Z (roof vinyl), FRS (rolled fenders, coilovers), and more.




Finally got the Fit supercharged.




Drooled over a friend's hella custom 1jZ.




But after a while I realized the 235 NT05's were way too slim for the power the car had. They got dangerous quickly and the single autocross event were the nail in their coffin.




So the car went back into the garage and I went back to work selling Z shit, ordering fancy shit, and making the car presentable. Electrical work sucks less with friends.




Sold these ($$$$)...




and these (NA 300ZX wheelset $100)...




and bought these.




Daily setup: 275/40R17 on 17x9.5 +12 V-dogg ES




Compared to stock G35 wheelset






No spacers what!






Sorry everyone! They were hella wide so I bought these...




...and went to work.






4x4 don't care.




Bought an F1Spec Carbon Kevlar reclining seat so I made this.




and threw the seat in the car. Oh yeah, I also threw the dash in with some custom holes for the Z gauges, and fabbed a mount for the Z cluster.




Lots of room in the engine bay.




Hybrid needs gas, 2forty don't.




Anyone contemplating a TSX HID projector Silvia retrofit, just DO IT. Stop debating. Pull the trigger, pay full price on eBay. My headlights are crooked and it's still a world of difference.






Tires are wide.






White wax makin the car look purdy.




Polar vortices happen. Sucks when you don't have a windshield wiper motor installed yet.






Got a halfass alignment, bought a helmet that I can autocross or downhill with




...and went racing!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceDP-15OYjA
Raw link: Return of the Zephyr

Aftermath.



The car did fantastic. 6th out of 61 in raw time, 20th in PAX. First and fifth were a Kart and a Formula Vee respectively. Second went to an ESP 2012 Mustang 5.0 on 295 Rivals x4. Third went to an Evo X and fourth to a 2013 STi.

Room for improvement: I could've used more camber up front and I'm looking to get some Drifworks Knuckles for the roll center correction and to modify them to mount the 350Z Brembos in the rear. Since I still have 300ZX brakes in the rear and the 350Z ABS manifold, the ZX brakes were locking up early since they're smaller diameter calipers. I ended up using this for rotation in the corners as if my sway bar was set soft/removed or if I was running a 2-way LSD and downshifting (even though it's autocross and I didn't leave 2nd). WIth proper, even braking the car will be much more predictable and I'll be able to brake later and more aggressively.

I'd also like to pull about 200 lbs out of my car to meet my minimum of 2500LBS for an SM car at 3.5 liters, and make myself a good strut tower bar that works around the HR intake. Grippy tires on a track day wheelset would also help! Something like some 275/35R18 Rivals on 18x10.5 RPF1 maybe? So yeah, I think I can take the top spot in a year or so, LOL!!!
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:10 AM   #66
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Any chance you'll drift it? 4x4 will have to go

-Logan
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:55 AM   #67
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What fender flares did you get?
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:39 PM   #68
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Any chance you'll drift it? 4x4 will have to go

-Logan
Yeah, the wheels are really tall. Hopefully the race wheels are a little shorter and the drop knuckles help me regain some low.

And I'm not drifting it on purpose. Evar.


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What fender flares did you get?
These are the CF ZG fenders from JDMFlares.com
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:46 PM   #69
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Looking good dude. I think you should drop the front some more.
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:56 PM   #70
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Looking good dude. I think you should drop the front some more.
Thanks man. I did a bunch of calculations and found the 275's BFG are 1.26" taller than the 235 NT05. Split the difference and it's crazy how different the car looks with a 3/4" lift. The suspension was left in the exact same position.

Race setup will probably be 275/35R18 BFG Rivals on bronze 18x10.5 RPF1's. This will yield a negligible drop in ride height. Thinking about getting some stiffer springs and making some coil blocks to space the KW's an inch taller for daily and pulling them out for race/hard park.
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:07 PM   #71
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That cluster looks sick and the 2 gauges on the dash. Legit
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:41 PM   #72
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That cluster looks sick and the 2 gauges on the dash. Legit
I like the mounting setup for the most part (the cluster could be a little farther back, will probably address later) but I hate the cracks. I plan on pulling the dash again and stripping off all the foam, contouring the center triple gauge pods and covering the whole deal with a racecar type suede. Should kill light reflection and prevent further cracking issues.
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:41 AM   #73
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nice update!

the dash looks great!

in for more
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That's pretty cool. Never sell it, you'll regret it.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:01 PM   #74
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nice swap and congrats and pulling it off, really refreshing to see the attention to detail... stupid off topic question for you if you feel so inclined to answer... how was the install/fitment of the jdmflares.com flares?

thanks
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:05 PM   #75
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Flares weren't bad. I needed clearance of BIG TARRS as opposed to most people that just are after fitment. They're not labeled front/rear/left/right so that was actually an issue. I mounted them in reverse first. Annoying.

Good stuff once they're mounted right tho. Good quality CF.
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Old 02-11-2014, 03:57 AM   #76
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Osnap.



18x10.5 +15 Enkei RPF1 in limited edition Bronze. Kinda disappointed, I think they weigh over 20lbs.
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:08 AM   #77
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i think you'd be hard pressed to find an 18x10.5 under 20lbs.
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:29 PM   #78
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i think you'd be hard pressed to find an 18x10.5 under 20lbs.
I know. Just had high hopes for the RPF1's.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:34 PM   #79
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Yeah, the wheels are really tall. Hopefully the race wheels are a little shorter and the drop knuckles help me regain some low.

And I'm not drifting it on purpose. Evar.




These are the CF ZG fenders from JDMFlares.com
Ever huh? Quick change of heart See you in April!
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:22 PM   #80
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Sigh...makes me wish I'd just finish my vq swap..all it needs is aem and to be touched up and she's done....
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:33 PM   #81
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Thumbs up

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Ever huh? Quick change of heart See you in April!
Rub it in! LOL! Man, I just wanna go fast! Went to a local drift event and couldn't believe the seat time. You'll get 6 minutes MAX at an average Autocross. These kids were spending hours in their cars sliding; as long as they had tires, they were rolling.

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Sigh...makes me wish I'd just finish my vq swap..all it needs is aem and to be touched up and she's done....
Man, get that thing rolling! Looking killer.
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:43 PM   #82
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You sir are a mad scientist and I tip my hat off to you, with that being said a job well done and keep up the great work cars like yours belong in magazines and Option videos. Also do you know the thread pitch of your heim joints from your aftermarket rucas that you swapped out?
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Old 02-27-2014, 11:21 AM   #83
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This has got to be one of my favorite builds right now. Keep up the hard work, and keep doing what you do!
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Old 02-27-2014, 11:47 AM   #84
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You sir are a mad scientist and I tip my hat off to you, with that being said a job well done and keep up the great work cars like yours belong in magazines and Option videos. Also do you know the thread pitch of your heim joints from your aftermarket rucas that you swapped out?
Thread pitch is M16x2 RH thread, and I ended up getting part no. 4567 from Midwest Control Products Corp (Spherical Rod End, Male, Chrome Moly, Nylon Race Metric,) $40 for two, shipped.
https://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=2920

And I actually have been getting called "mad scientist" a lot lately, and I tell everyone I just wanna go fast.

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This has got to be one of my favorite builds right now. Keep up the hard work, and keep doing what you do!
Thanks man! Love to hear good feedback. Been lurking in the "Builds" section lately? LOL!
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Old 02-27-2014, 12:10 PM   #85
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Buy r-comps, esp if you're trying to be competitive in SM. Not sure how serious you're trying to be or if you're just playing around locally.

Since you're already flared 285s or 315s are feasible, though.

Also a clutch type lsd (ATS carbon or OS giken) will make you love the car at autox.
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:45 AM   #86
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Buy r-comps, esp if you're trying to be competitive in SM. Not sure how serious you're trying to be or if you're just playing around locally.

Since you're already flared 285s or 315s are feasible, though.

Also a clutch type lsd (ATS carbon or OS giken) will make you love the car at autox.
This is great input, but there's been some shitty developments in the AutoX rulebook. Basically the block of the motor now has to be a factory option of the chassis for the car to remain in SM, which means I'm now bumped to XP and will have to go full race to stay competitive.

This is a recent modification of the rules and really f*cked my whole universe. I'm not going to gut my car and try for nationals at XP because XP cars suck on the road. I can get R-Comps and a drift wheelset and go through my car making it lighter and keep improving it, all the while enjoying it in a variety of motorsport. I'll aim for FTD of the local autocross (team GFYS Roolbook) and try my hand at drift. Just really sucks because this car would've slayed in SM.

Anyway... where was I... Oh yeah, I just wanna go fast.



So I've been helping friends lately with their projects. This Jeep got upper & lower ball joints, BBK & upgraded BMC then bleed the whole dealio.





900 some odd torque turbo diesel 4x4 Excursion pushing up to 35psi. Bitch pulls hard. Similar setup buses run low 13s. MURICA



Haven't been able to help another friend with his E46 M3 as much as I'd like. Sorry Jacob.



He has camber woes. Potenza RE11 don't like camber, or fitment kids in general.



Fenders on TEs. He had to go back and redo ALL HIS FITMENT WORK!



Neighbor has a hybrid Subaru build that just put down over 300 hp/tq before it blew a turbo and shit a trans. Did I mention I'll never own an STI? Motor sits in the bay like a pile of spaghetti with meatballs on the bottom of the bowl.



Trey's SR _____________ (hatch/coupe/S12/...?) build. Should be starting his own thread soon.







Contemplating taking the "SILVIA" off and adding the 350Z Nismo trunk badge. This was just a test fit with the old adhesive. At this point it's a FrankenCar anyway.



I was sighted at a Nola Motorsports drift event without tires to burn. Never again. Everyone was pissed. "You're not drifting?! You show up with that and you're not gonna slide!!!????"



So I immediately picked up a used drift wheelset with new tires up front and one wet drift event on the rears.



17x10.5 +15 Battles with Federal 595 235/40



And then I got some used race rubber. 70% 295 A6 for the rear, and 50% 275 R6 for the front. I was planning on slapping the 40% 285 A6 up front but I noticed cord showing on the shoulder that I didn't see when I picked them up. Oh well, got them all for under $300. This puts the count of wheelsets in garage at 4 , the black G35, Battles, Enkeis and Varrs. I can't complain.





Pursuing weight reduction, I decided to run a custom length 7 rib belt for AC compressor delete. It's been a couple weeks so I'm gonna go ahead and buy another one and pull all the dead weight. For anyone with an HR trying to do an AC delete, it's a Goodyear 4070505 Gatorback Poly-V Belt.




So yeah, now that the dream of a National Solo Championship is pretty much smashed, I'm looking for other fun shit to do with the car...

This bitch is gonna slide.
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:01 AM   #87
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I knew youd change your mind, tennesseedrift is having a 50 buck test/tune next week
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:17 AM   #88
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It just looks like too much fun.

They're all and I'm all
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:42 AM   #89
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when the hell did they change the rules for autoX?
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:57 AM   #90
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Quote:
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when the hell did they change the rules for autoX?
Not sure when it happened but the SM engine specs language I was using as a guideline for my build used to read:

Quote:
Engine must be from the same manufacturer as the body (Toyota/Lexus, Nissan/Datsun, Honda/Acura, etc.)
And now reads:

Quote:
Engine block must be a production unit manufactured and badged the same as the original standard or optional engine for that model.
Which just goes to show there's a lot of bad info out there and I was using outdated rule info for my build.
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