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Old 06-01-2016, 07:20 PM   #19831
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Since were on topic, is there an inspection I can do on my rotor/cap to tell if I need to replace it? Started my car today and it slightly shook on an interval; I felt it when I sat calmly.

(I posted about this some time ago and was suggested to check fuel lines and vac pressure. I dont have the tools or the expertise for that; so, I figure I should try the things I can.)
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:37 PM   #19832
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Removed rear hub (doing 5 lug conversion). This came out and looked a bit damaged. Do I need it or no? If so what is it called.


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Old 06-02-2016, 05:10 AM   #19833
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Attachment 93362

Removed rear hub (doing 5 lug conversion). This came out and looked a bit damaged. Do I need it or no? If so what is it called.


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http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/ is your best source for the blown up assembly diagram. You might want to hang on to that. Input VIN, search part, and look at the assembly to see what it is by name. You will probably figure it out fairly fast
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:07 AM   #19834
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So my s13 headlights aren't turning on and highbeams aren't working. They go up and down and the signals come on. I'm guessing it's the headlight switch on the steering wheel? Also fuses aren't blown.
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:48 PM   #19835
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Anyone know how to inpect/ test the diff bushing on a S14 for excessive wear or play? I have a spare subframe with ES bushing already installed and would like to test the integrity of the differential's rubber. They APPEAR to be in good shape, but it would suck to find out otherwise once the subframe is back on.
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Old 06-02-2016, 05:23 PM   #19836
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So my s13 headlights aren't turning on and highbeams aren't working. They go up and down and the signals come on. I'm guessing it's the headlight switch on the steering wheel? Also fuses aren't blown.
Bingo.

Take it apart and hit the contacts with some sandpaper, it'll be pretty obvious where the corrosion is.
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:17 AM   #19837
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Anyone know how to inpect/ test the diff bushing on a S14 for excessive wear or play? I have a spare subframe with ES bushing already installed and would like to test the integrity of the differential's rubber. They APPEAR to be in good shape, but it would suck to find out otherwise once the subframe is back on.
The same way that you would check any suspension bushing. Jack up the rear of the car and use a pry bar to try and move the diff around. The results can be subjective, but if you feel that the diff moves around easily and there is a lot of flex in the bushings, then they are worn. By comparison, polyurethane bushings like ES are nearly rock hard and will hardly move when loaded.
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:42 AM   #19838
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In refrence to the headlight switch on steering column . My lights work they pop up when I turn the lights on but when I turn them off they don't lower . I'll have to lower via turning motor knob then hit the lights and they pop back up and run fine I think it's the switch
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:02 AM   #19839
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:06 AM   #19840
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Are these bride brix authentic? "Made in Japan" tag missing for some odd reason. Im trading my bucket seat for this. Stitching look on point.






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Old 06-03-2016, 10:40 AM   #19841
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Old 06-03-2016, 11:24 AM   #19842
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The same way that you would check any suspension bushing. Jack up the rear of the car and use a pry bar to try and move the diff around. The results can be subjective, but if you feel that the diff moves around easily and there is a lot of flex in the bushings, then they are worn. By comparison, polyurethane bushings like ES are nearly rock hard and will hardly move when loaded.
Thanks for the reponse sir, but I'm not sure how accurate my assumptions would be given the subframe is off the vehicle, and without a diff.
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:46 PM   #19843
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Thanks for the reponse sir, but I'm not sure how accurate my assumptions would be given the subframe is off the vehicle, and without a diff.
Then shouldn't you be able to visually inspect the bushings to see if they are worn or torn apart?
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:38 PM   #19844
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They APPEAR to be in good shape, but it would suck to find out otherwise once the subframe is back on.
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Then shouldn't you be able to visually inspect the bushings to see if they are worn or torn apart?
I mention it in OP. Bushings look good with no tears, but thought I'd asked anyone with experience on inspecting these. Figured why just assume, when I can least ask first.
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:44 PM   #19845
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I mention it in OP. Bushings look good with no tears, but thought I'd asked anyone with experience on inspecting these. Figured why just assume, when I can least ask first.
If that's the case, I would simply change them now. It doesn't make sense not changing them if the diff is already out and the sub frame off the car.
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Old 06-03-2016, 02:32 PM   #19846
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If that's the case, I would simply change them now. It doesn't make sense not changing them if the diff is already out and the sub frame off the car.
I would of Nissan sold replacement bushings, my research has guided me to a Poly Subframs & rubber diff comination.(cars is a DD of 90 miles a day) Megan hard rubber is/ was a option but the reviews put me off.
Thanks for the reponses guys, glad to see some people are still helpful nowaday.
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Old 06-03-2016, 05:29 PM   #19847
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:54 PM   #19848
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any recommendations for rear s14 rotors?
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:21 AM   #19849
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Quote:
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Anyone know how to inpect/ test the diff bushing on a S14 for excessive wear or play? I have a spare subframe with ES bushing already installed and would like to test the integrity of the differential's rubber. They APPEAR to be in good shape, but it would suck to find out otherwise once the subframe is back on.
Here's a novel idea:
You have the subframe out of the car. Change out those diff bushings with stiffer ones and don't bother trying to figure out if the current ones are good or not. Seriously, buying new, say, Energy Suspension or other diff bushings is a no brainier considering the ease of replacement with the cradle out
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Old 06-04-2016, 01:55 PM   #19850
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Just wanted to let people know who happen to browse through here that about month or so ago I was having some high idle issues. Car would warm up and just sit at 2k even when it was warm. Turns out my TPS was bad. It was reading 2.14v at closed throttle when it should have read .45v. I swapped it out and 0 issues.

Just for anyone having a similar problem who happen to come across this.
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Old 06-04-2016, 03:07 PM   #19851
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Bingo.

Take it apart and hit the contacts with some sandpaper, it'll be pretty obvious where the corrosion is.
Alright cleaned them and still doesn't work. If I touch a screw driver in between two contacts kinda like arcing them the left one turns on. I'm stumped
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:28 PM   #19852
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I have a s14 with a s13 sr20det swap. How do I mount the n62 ecu inside the car? The brackets are different from the factory s14 mounting spots, thanks in advance.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:04 PM   #19853
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I have a s14 with a s13 sr20det swap. How do I mount the n62 ecu inside the car? The brackets are different from the factory s14 mounting spots, thanks in advance.
take the brackets off your old ecu, and bolt them to the new one
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Old 06-08-2016, 09:41 PM   #19854
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On my hatch i have 50mm rear and 40mm front fenders. I want to buy 16x10 wheels but dont know what offset to use to make them fit( with out spacers)
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:06 PM   #19855
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You need to learn how offset and width relate. Then you can browse through the couple fitment threads here on Zilvia and use other people's fitment to achieve what you want.

Here's a theoretical example: you find an S13 with fitment you want to achieve. It has 50mm overs and 16x9 +0 that fit perfectly. A 10" wheel is 25mm wider than a 9", meaning that there is 12mm more wheel both inboard and outboard. To make up for that extra 12mm outboard, you compensate with +12mm offest. And voila, your 10" wheel will fit the same as the 9" wheel.

Keep in mind with overfenders, they can be mounted higher, lower or bowed. So your 50mm overs may not fit the same as someone else's. Keep that in mind when using someone else's fitment as reference.
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Old 06-09-2016, 12:21 AM   #19856
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Had a strange issue with the rear end. The driver side axle stub popped out!!! When I was driving!!! It still had the snap ring thingie on it and everything. Upon removing the axle I was not aware that popping off the dust cover was really easy and the whole thing will just come apart. Now I know. I bought a new CV shaft. They're early J30 units, 5 star and Rzeppa style.

Anyhow, I tapped the axle stub back in and re-installed the "new" CV shaft and the car drives fine.

Why would this happen? My car is not TOO LOW, its not like im tucking 18s or anything. Almost, but not.

Do you guys have any experience with this happening? Hopefully this is a one time, freak occurence.
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Old 06-09-2016, 06:14 PM   #19857
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I have some rubber grommets plugging up holes in my trunk, but I noticed that theyre starting to dry out since the car lives outside in the sun. Does anyone have any idea of a spray or coating I can put on there to prevent it from doing that?

I was thinking of doing a layer of clear coat. What do you think?
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Old 06-09-2016, 06:32 PM   #19858
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I have some rubber grommets plugging up holes in my trunk, but I noticed that theyre starting to dry out since the car lives outside in the sun. Does anyone have any idea of a spray or coating I can put on there to prevent it from doing that?

I was thinking of doing a layer of clear coat. What do you think?
NOPE! go get new ones.
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Old 06-09-2016, 07:03 PM   #19859
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NOPE! go get new ones.
Thats my thought on the new ones*, but I dont want to keep replacing them. I had these mounted like 3 weeks ago.

*the clear coat idea
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Old 06-09-2016, 09:23 PM   #19860
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clear coat wont help on rubber. rubber dries out and goes hard, its just the nature of the material.
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