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Old 09-16-2018, 09:17 PM   #1
steves_2jz240
 
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2JZ swap S14

Hello all,

So before I get started I just want to say I have read the "2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis Thread" it gave me a ton of info and I understand what goes into the swap.

So I have a '95 240sx and I just bought the 2JZ-GTE. I am currently stripping it down to do the maintenance part of the build. I want this car to be a "reliable" 400-500hp car with the convenience of heat, a/c and I want the fuel pump to turn on with the key.

My question..

I am cleaning up the 2JZ and throwing away the twins and going single. I found two diagrams of the vacuum and of the cooling lines. I am understanding mostly what I can remove like all the vacuum lines on the turbo side and the pressure tank. In regards to the cooler lines on the intake side, can I remove the pipe wrapping around the engine going to the throttle body and IAC or is it a better idea to leave those lines? I don't understand the need for those lines.

PS: I'm removing the water oil cooler and going with an air oil cooler.

The diagrams I found:


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Old 09-24-2018, 10:44 AM   #2
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If you are going with a air oil cooler yes you can remove the wrap around pipe on the back of the head to the oil cooler. Get a 2jz-ge turbo side pipe, it ends at the back of the block on the turbo side (doesn't go around to intake side and you still have heat). Remove the nipple on the intake side block for the oil water cooler and get a plug for there from a 2jz-ge. It's 3/8 BSPT not NPT so better to just buy it from Toyota/Lexus like I did the pipe and plug. Then remove the nipple in the front of the head on the intake side, tap it for 1/8" npt and plug it as well. Then you are done!
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:50 PM   #3
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The plug part number is 90344-53015 and the water bypass part number is 16278-46040.

The head port is pretty self explanatory, its in the front near the intake cam gear. You could always just plug a hose onto it but for sealing properties you can tap it for 1/8" NPT and plug it or use it for a sensor port later or fan controller.
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Old 09-24-2018, 08:22 PM   #4
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So the coolant line going to the throttle body isn't that important?
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Old 09-25-2018, 07:51 AM   #5
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As an aside. Any oil cooler hose you use, make sure its teflon coated (the thick inner lining). Typical ebay cooler hose is plain braided/rubber which has accounted for more engine failures than I can count, because it is easy to crush/stop the flow of oil.

The teflon line on the other hand I've had an engine sit on it and it still works.
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Old 09-25-2018, 08:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steves_2jz240 View Post
So the coolant line going to the throttle body isn't that important?
No it is not that important. Main reason is to assist in keeping the throttle body plates from freezing in a certain position (cars are designed for a wide range of locations). The JZ's run so hot especially in an s-chassis I highly doubt you will ever have to worry about that even in the winter once the motor is warmed up.
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Old 09-27-2018, 10:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
As an aside. Any oil cooler hose you use, make sure its teflon coated (the thick inner lining). Typical ebay cooler hose is plain braided/rubber which has accounted for more engine failures than I can count, because it is easy to crush/stop the flow of oil.

The teflon line on the other hand I've had an engine sit on it and it still works.
Oh yea, I'm definitely going with quality hoses!
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Old 09-27-2018, 10:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbieb2009 View Post
No it is not that important. Main reason is to assist in keeping the throttle body plates from freezing in a certain position (cars are designed for a wide range of locations). The JZ's run so hot especially in an s-chassis I highly doubt you will ever have to worry about that even in the winter once the motor is warmed up.
Gotcha! Thank you so much for the help!
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