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Old 10-24-2014, 08:25 AM   #1
2283kdogg
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Temperature problem ka24de

Ok so for the last 2 months iv been dealing with this
I have replaced thermostat and bled numerous times
I have also replaced the radiator cap with a 1.3kg 18 pounds presure i think
I still need to replace the coolant temp sensors and the other one
Next to it. I know thise need to be replaced because I unplugged it and after i pluged it back in the needle would stiwch when driving and sometimes
At idle. Somes times its starts going up and it will stay close to hot


Heres the catch lol. Every morning i go to open my radiator or atempt lol
It has pressure and wants to shoot fuild out. The over flow tank is also full



Any ideas? Thanks

Also I have drivin the car for about 2hrs and it ran perfect
Car starts perfect too
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:38 AM   #2
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Do you have stock clutch fan or electrical?
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:12 AM   #3
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When i bought the car it came with one electric fan thats in the middle with a godspeed radiator
Ive thought of buying 2 duals but i just havent got around to that

Right now im waiting for the coolant sensors but that should fix the jumping needle
I feel it could just be that and my motor isnt really ever overheating

I also installed an oil cooler with thermostat
I just cant explain why my radiator would have pressure to shot out water

If im correct. When engine is completely cool the water in the over flow should go back into the radiator to top it off right? Mayb i have too much coolant in there? Mayb the cap isnt letting fuilt back in? Idk in lost lol
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:08 AM   #4
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you need to use your head more instead of just buying parts and hoping that fixes the problem

1) it is impossible for your radiator to hold pressure when the car is cold. heat = pressure. cold = no pressure.

2) the overflow bottle is just that, overflow. when pressure reaches a certain PSI, the fluid expands into the overflow so that you dont crack a block.

3) the gauge is not precise. you need a real gauge to monitor temperatures. the gauge jumping is a separate issue and could be as simple as bad wiring, dirty connection, etc. i'de ditch it and install a proper aftermarket gauge/sender.

4) an oil cooler/thermostat has nothing to do with your cooling system, you shouldnt even bother mentioning that.

5) buying brands like godspeed does not help your situation, it only makes it worse. buy from reputable companies like KOYO once, and be done with it. you buy cheap shit, you end up with headaches.
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:20 AM   #5
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Agree on buying cheap shit makes more problems
Again it came with car
And i will look into an after market guage
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:21 AM   #6
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And thank you explaing the overflow tank issue
I didnt know that
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:27 AM   #7
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What size is the fan? It is most likely not sufficient, especially if it is not shrouded.
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:53 AM   #8
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I dont know the fan size
But i am going to buy a nice dual setup
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:42 PM   #9
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How do you know it's a temperature problem and not a temperature gauge problem?
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:48 PM   #10
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Ur right. Thats why i testing the sensors that sends signal
And reads the coolant temp

Last edited by 2283kdogg; 10-25-2014 at 04:58 AM..
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Old 10-25-2014, 10:28 AM   #11
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users should be banned for not being able to type full sentences

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Old 10-25-2014, 11:08 AM   #12
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Put the clutch fan on. Best fan setup ever. It works even without the shroud. Plus it looks cool and menacing.
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Old 10-25-2014, 12:23 PM   #13
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Check you vehicle Head the head gasket could be on its way out and that could create pressure that will push the water out the radiator.

Also if your heaters are cold and the car is warm it could be the matrix heater.
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Old 10-25-2014, 05:13 PM   #14
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Ok cool. thanks for the replies guys
So i changed the coolant sensor and the other one next to it
So far it hasn't done any funny shit no more
Im going to keep driving it to see what happens

But has Any body ever had the issue where the overflow tank bubbles when u turn it off?
When i say bubbles i mean u can here the over flow tank burping
I opened the over flow tank to see and it looked like if it was releasing air that was trapped in the coolant system. Idk i just guessing. I haven't had it do it anymore but when it has done it was usually when the temp was going up. But again after changing these sensors its been a good car and staying cool Lol besides the fact my throwout bearing it going out lol
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Old 10-25-2014, 05:21 PM   #15
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The over flow work where when the pressure is high enough it let's some of the coolant into the over flow tank but one it cools it creates a vacuum and should suck fluid out back into the radiator to fill the void left. It the cap shouldn't shoot fluid out when totally cold when opened. It shouldn't shoot coolant when mildly warm only when really hot or over heating.
You need to test your radiator system. Pressure test the rad cap the radiator system. Air in the system or air getting into the system through a small leak will make the system over heat due to boiling the air.

How did you bleed the system?
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Old 10-25-2014, 05:24 PM   #16
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if you say you "bled" the system...

there is a possibility that a head gasket is in your future, as the previous person commented.

whats your mileage? being young of age I am going to assume that its easily over 100k and that you drive the piss out if it

speaking from experience here, as when I was your age I drove the piss out of my car... from the 60k it had when purchased to the 140k it had when last driven

man, i gotta wrap that project up.
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Old 10-25-2014, 05:29 PM   #17
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Your on the right track with the bubbling thing when off it was bleeding off additional air since no new air was being introduced when running but was over heating.

You may have bleed the system further when you replaced the sensors since they are at a high spot in the system next to the bleeder screw.
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Old 10-25-2014, 10:06 PM   #18
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Ok. Yea its at 156xxx any yea im going to bleed it more.
Ill keep u guys posted. My car is going on blocks 2morow
Time for new clutch. Well i have to replace it for cheapin out
Smh. Going with a act or spec
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Old 10-26-2014, 06:06 AM   #19
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As for a clutch if you have a ka24de motor, then if i were to do a clutch again I would do the newer "white bunny" clutch. The clutch kit uses an oem style 250mm pressure plate along with a full faced oem style sprung disc from a 350z. It also comes with a lightened flywheel from a RB engine. Together the kit is stated to hold about 400 horsepower and is only around 350.00 to 390.00 depending on where you get it from. Not bad for all three when most stage 2 or higher are around 300.00 to 400.00 and don't come with a brand new flywheel.
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:35 AM   #20
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Ok cool. Yea i have a 13pound flywheel
I founf a fx500 clutchmasters for 278 shipped. Seems good and
Found some good reviews. I know its grabby but like my cluthes
On the aggressive side.. This cheap ebay ship didnt hold up
Dont cheap out kids. U end up back tracking. Fuck!! Lol
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