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Old 05-27-2017, 10:56 AM   #21091
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You have a dirty housing, and probably sensor too, in the maf - those pins look corroded, put a little bit of dielectric grease on the plug, and spray the sensor part out with maf cleaner. Don't touch any of it with anything else.

Your MAF and O2 are not the hard start problem. You have a miss (or more). Causes can be a fuel injector not working, a fuel injector leaking, a damaged spark plug or wire, a wire that's slipped off (they should also have a bit of dielectric o the contact in each end, if you remove them), or a spark leaking before it gets to the plug, one way or another.

Or, something really bad, like a head gasket, missing piston, valve...

Check all your fluids, and report back on what the tailpipe looks and smells like when you start it, when you blip the throtte, etc.
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Old 05-27-2017, 04:10 PM   #21092
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Quote:
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You have a dirty housing, and probably sensor too, in the maf - those pins look corroded, put a little bit of dielectric grease on the plug, and spray the sensor part out with maf cleaner. Don't touch any of it with anything else.

Your MAF and O2 are not the hard start problem. You have a miss (or more). Causes can be a fuel injector not working, a fuel injector leaking, a damaged spark plug or wire, a wire that's slipped off (they should also have a bit of dielectric o the contact in each end, if you remove them), or a spark leaking before it gets to the plug, one way or another.

Or, something really bad, like a head gasket, missing piston, valve...

Check all your fluids, and report back on what the tailpipe looks and smells like when you start it, when you blip the throtte, etc.
Hey man, thanks for giving me some advice, about to days ago i realised that it was having a miss. right after school i went straight to the car to make sure that all the injectors where plugged in properly because i had already changed the spark plug wires the night before. Then it occurred to me to begin un plugging them for a change in idle, and of course when i unplugged the cylinder 3 it did absolutely nothing. all other injectors almost made the motor die. I should be going to my buddies house to clean the Maf components and possibly borrow a multimeter to check the resistance on the injectors. i also do have a slight head gasket leak if that worsens the issue... the oil looks brownish and is not watery so i suppose thats a plus.
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Old 05-28-2017, 05:17 AM   #21093
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FYI:
If you drive a 240 and get gas, DO NOT TOP IT OFF. Gas leaks into the EVAP, causing hard start, vapor lock symptoms when warm, and 2500rpm stutter. This can be random from right after or ten minutes after you fill up, to until your evap dries out. I've heard you can remove the system, but not heard what you do with the sensor.
I guess what to do with the sensor would be a small question, since removing shitty parts is easy.
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Old 05-28-2017, 09:21 AM   #21094
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Hey man, thanks for giving me some advice, about to days ago i realised that it was having a miss. right after school i went straight to the car to make sure that all the injectors where plugged in properly because i had already changed the spark plug wires the night before. Then it occurred to me to begin un plugging them for a change in idle, and of course when i unplugged the cylinder 3 it did absolutely nothing. all other injectors almost made the motor die. I should be going to my buddies house to clean the Maf components and possibly borrow a multimeter to check the resistance on the injectors. i also do have a slight head gasket leak if that worsens the issue... the oil looks brownish and is not watery so i suppose thats a plus.
Are you sure you have a head gasket leak? It's not something that generally stays nice and small and controllable. Your oil should get brown, but it should not be opaque. That's a massive problem that needs to be handled before anything else. And before driving at all, if you give two craps about your car.

If it smokes and smells very gassy, you have a leaking o-ring on the injector. If it doesn't smoke, the injector isn't firing. If it's not firing you could limp it a little way and probably not do any damage (if you DON'T have a head gasket leak), but if it seems to be dumping gas into that cylinder, you'll cause serious damage to the whole engine if you try to drive it.
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:44 AM   #21095
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SR's guru can my lifters go bad if my engine sits for awhile ? Would I have to rebleed them if it sat for more than 6 months ?


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Old 05-30-2017, 10:36 AM   #21096
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Me again... has anyone replaced the Neutral position/ 5th gear position switch with the trans still in the car? Couldn't reach it with any tools I currently own, and was thinking cutting a line in a deep socket for the pigtail wires much like an 02 sensor socket. Though I ask before I attempt that route.
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:56 AM   #21097
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A crow foot socket, extension and ratchet would probably work.

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Old 05-30-2017, 12:24 PM   #21098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Nation S13 View Post
SR's guru can my lifters go bad if my engine sits for awhile ? Would I have to rebleed them if it sat for more than 6 months?
I wouldn't hurt to bleed em, but it's such a pain. I wouldn't worry about it. My SR has sat for 6mo without rebleeding before.

- Unplug all four injectors so no fuel is supplied to the engine.
- Crank it over for 20-30 seconds to let the oil pump prime everything.
- Plug the injectors back in.
- Crank it up and let it idle for a few minutes.

It may have some lifter chatter at first, but it should go away, especially once it gets warm and you rev it up.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:14 AM   #21099
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KA Freaks, I need you expertise on something.

I'm about to do a chain kit swap on my s14. Anything else I should look into replacing/fixing while I'm at it?

So far, I plan on doing the chain kit and main seal.
I'm also thinking about doing the Oil Pump Gear + Oil Pump Valve Relief Assembly + Oil Strainer.

thanks in advance.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:30 AM   #21100
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Quote:
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KA Freaks, I need you expertise on something.

I'm about to do a chain kit swap on my s14. Anything else I should look into replacing/fixing while I'm at it?

So far, I plan on doing the chain kit and main seal.
I'm also thinking about doing the Oil Pump Gear + Oil Pump Valve Relief Assembly + Oil Strainer.

thanks in advance.
Think about clutch while you're in the neighborhood.

Maybe replace the slave cylinder too?
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Old 06-02-2017, 01:58 AM   #21101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Nation S13 View Post
SR's guru can my lifters go bad if my engine sits for awhile ? Would I have to rebleed them if it sat for more than 6 months ?


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I wouldn't worry about it. How long is it sitting? What I WOULD worry about is rust forming. Just threw out some legit Toda cams from a motor I bought because it sat so long rust formed and started pitting on the lobes.

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KA Freaks, I need you expertise on something.

I'm about to do a chain kit swap on my s14. Anything else I should look into replacing/fixing while I'm at it?

So far, I plan on doing the chain kit and main seal.
I'm also thinking about doing the Oil Pump Gear + Oil Pump Valve Relief Assembly + Oil Strainer.

thanks in advance.
If you do, buy oem replacement parts instead of the ebay front cover/oil pump assembly. Also a good time to do new water pump and thermostat. Make sure to seal it up well, follow the directions, you can't always just torque everything down and fill it up.
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Old 06-03-2017, 06:57 AM   #21102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mau5trap View Post
KA Freaks, I need you expertise on something.

I'm about to do a chain kit swap on my s14. Anything else I should look into replacing/fixing while I'm at it?

So far, I plan on doing the chain kit and main seal.
I'm also thinking about doing the Oil Pump Gear + Oil Pump Valve Relief Assembly + Oil Strainer.

thanks in advance.
36" ratchet extension for that transmission bolt, and if you are going the entire timing kit, may as well change out bad steering racks and stuff since it has to drop down a bit.
Saw my friend do his, next thing you know it was steering rack and new lines, new oil pan, new bushings, like around 1k worth of 'moar' parts. Spec clutch was the best choice, because the fucker got all drifty and went PBM/Driftknuckle.com and ended up with 70* of angle too .

Told ya man, 240's a money pit whore
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Old 06-04-2017, 03:05 PM   #21103
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Ok guys, I recently went ka-t. I also just got my hands on some bc 264 cams. My current setup is the 248/232 cam swap with the intake came turned 3.5 teeth. I ran this when I was na and it makes the car noticeably more responsive as low as 2k rpm. I know 248/248 would be more ideal than 248/232, but so far it feels extremely responsive and starts to boost really quick(journal bearing 2871, hasnt been tuned so I haven't actually gotten into boost). My question is what would the 264s do to my power band? I'm not at all concerned with peak numbers so if it's going to make my lower end suffer, I don't want them.
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Old 06-04-2017, 05:24 PM   #21104
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A crow foot socket, extension and ratchet would probably work.
I was skeptical given the limited space... but it worked. Thank you sir.
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Old 06-04-2017, 07:48 PM   #21105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoffman5982 View Post
Ok guys, I recently went ka-t. I also just got my hands on some bc 264 cams. My current setup is the 248/232 cam swap with the intake came turned 3.5 teeth. I ran this when I was na and it makes the car noticeably more responsive as low as 2k rpm. I know 248/248 would be more ideal than 248/232, but so far it feels extremely responsive and starts to boost really quick(journal bearing 2871, hasnt been tuned so I haven't actually gotten into boost). My question is what would the 264s do to my power band? I'm not at all concerned with peak numbers so if it's going to make my lower end suffer, I don't want them.
It's going to undoubtedly shift the power band to the midrange/upper mid range. Low end will suffer a hair but mid torque and power will increase greatly. It's a worthwhile trade off IMO
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Old 06-04-2017, 07:53 PM   #21106
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Originally Posted by [240sx] View Post
Me again... has anyone replaced the Neutral position/ 5th gear position switch with the trans still in the car? Couldn't reach it with any tools I currently own, and was thinking cutting a line in a deep socket for the pigtail wires much like an 02 sensor socket. Though I ask before I attempt that route.
Unplug, side box wrench over the plug and take it out.
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Old 06-04-2017, 09:41 PM   #21107
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It's going to undoubtedly shift the power band to the midrange/upper mid range. Low end will suffer a hair but mid torque and power will increase greatly. It's a worthwhile trade off IMO
Will it make the car feel laggy? And do I need to do any degree-ing of my cams or just throw them straight in? That will ultimately determine if I'm going to go ahead and install them before I get it tuned
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:23 PM   #21108
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S14 spacer question

I recent changed the rear hubs on my stock s14 and now have extended studs as well. I Would like to add spacers to widen the OEM look. Oem s14 5 spoke wheels. How big of spacers can i fit without rolling the fenders? Are Hubbcentric spacers sold without the studs in them? Any help would be great
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Old 06-05-2017, 07:04 AM   #21109
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Has anyone sent out an S13 gas tank to be cleaned out inside & coated/lined? Sending unit in the coupe I got was toast so it wont run. Figured I'd just drop the tank since I figured all the bolts were going to break & I didn't want to drop rust into the tank from above since the outside seemed to be in decent shape but fuck...













Nissan wants $700cdn for a new tank. Local shop can clean & line it but need to see it first to confirm if it can be done & how much. Figured I'd run a vinegar mix through it first. I've heard lots of stories about the coating/liners clogging up pumps/injectors?
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Old 06-05-2017, 07:44 AM   #21110
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Has anyone sent out an S13 gas tank to be cleaned out inside & coated/lined? Sending unit in the coupe I got was toast so it wont run. Figured I'd just drop the tank since I figured all the bolts were going to break & I didn't want to drop rust into the tank from above since the outside seemed to be in decent shape but fuck...


Nissan wants $700cdn for a new tank. Local shop can clean & line it but need to see it first to confirm if it can be done & how much. Figured I'd run a vinegar mix through it first. I've heard lots of stories about the coating/liners clogging up pumps/injectors?
Wow, that seems pretty bad. If it's a car you want to keep for a while, I'd invest in a new tank if you can get it. Or possibly find a used one in better shape. All the bolts for that sending unit look snapped off, who knows how well it will seal if you have to drill and tap all of those out.

I know tanks can be cleaned and re-lined inside because a shop I worked at used to make motorcycle tanks from scratch and we'd have them sent out to be sealed up before paint.
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Old 06-05-2017, 07:52 AM   #21111
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Wow, that seems pretty bad. If it's a car you want to keep for a while, I'd invest in a new tank if you can get it. Or possibly find a used one in better shape. All the bolts for that sending unit look snapped off, who knows how well it will seal if you have to drill and tap all of those out.

I know tanks can be cleaned and re-lined inside because a shop I worked at used to make motorcycle tanks from scratch and we'd have them sent out to be sealed up before paint.
That was another reason I choose to drop the tank. I took my sweet ass time & got all the bolts out. 1 was a bit suborn but a bunch of LPS1 with a little back & forth I was able to remove it without breaking it.







I plan on keeping the car for quite sometime. Going to fully restore/build it & swap over the SR20 from my hatchback. So I'm honestly considering the brand new tank I'm just cheap & am also building an S14.5.
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Old 06-05-2017, 09:18 AM   #21112
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That tank is DONE-ZO.

Now, if this were some low production car, you can save it, but depending on your location you could find one pretty cheap that's going to save you RIDICULOUS time and effort.

Just look for a part out, just about anything is going to be in better condition...
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:13 AM   #21113
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battery relocation issues

having some weird issues after relocating battery to trunk, only the headlights and fuel pump seem to work, I redid all connections and grounds twice. Getting 12.5 volts at the power distribution and hooked battery up to my truck and still only headlights will work (won't go up and down lights just turn on) and fuel pump will prime. The only other thing that goes on is the battery light on dash

any help is appreciated
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:02 AM   #21114
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Originally Posted by Hoffman5982 View Post
Will it make the car feel laggy? And do I need to do any degree-ing of my cams or just throw them straight in? That will ultimately determine if I'm going to go ahead and install them before I get it tuned
Unless recently changed, most BC cam setups need to be degreed when installed.

What turbo are you running on the KA?

It's certainly gonna change how it comes into power, but I'd say it's for the better.
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:11 AM   #21115
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Originally Posted by aymaeid View Post
I recent changed the rear hubs on my stock s14 and now have extended studs as well. I Would like to add spacers to widen the OEM look. Oem s14 5 spoke wheels. How big of spacers can i fit without rolling the fenders? Are Hubbcentric spacers sold without the studs in them? Any help would be great
It all depends on drop, and tire size, but with the OEM wheels you'd need like a 2" spacer to make it look 'flush'...and then it would look kinda lame at the same time.

I'd say running some general 15mm or 20mm won't hurt, but as above depends on tire and drop.



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Originally Posted by Jefro240 View Post
Has anyone sent out an S13 gas tank to be cleaned out inside & coated/lined? Sending unit in the coupe I got was toast so it wont run. Figured I'd just drop the tank since I figured all the bolts were going to break & I didn't want to drop rust into the tank from above since the outside seemed to be in decent shape but fuck...
I'd commend your patience with that one! Woof!


I've used the vinegar trick with old motorcycle and moped gas tanks with some success. It's a cheap and 'easy' way to try, and it may work...however it seems beyond that trick now.

With that said, I'd look for someone parting a car out....but that's me.
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:35 AM   #21116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Unless recently changed, most BC cam setups need to be degreed when installed.

What turbo are you running on the KA?

It's certainly gonna change how it comes into power, but I'd say it's for the better.
It's a twisted motion 2871 turbo. I found a thread where a guy is running the same cams and set it up with the intake 10 deg advance and exhaust 2.5 degrees retarded and made 30whp more through the whole rpm range and like 55whp more peak, so I'm going to wait til I get some jwt sprockets before I put them in. Only issue is I get tuned next week so theres no chance of putting them in before hand. How vital is a retune? I know with a KA the tune is the most important thing so if I need to wait until I get another tune( don't want to tune it and then have to pay for another tune a few weeks later), that won't be an issue
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Old 06-06-2017, 01:21 PM   #21117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aymaeid View Post
I recent changed the rear hubs on my stock s14 and now have extended studs as well. I Would like to add spacers to widen the OEM look. Oem s14 5 spoke wheels. How big of spacers can i fit without rolling the fenders? Are Hubbcentric spacers sold without the studs in them? Any help would be great
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7ez5-yt-zg

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Originally Posted by hatch4life View Post
having some weird issues after relocating battery to trunk, only the headlights and fuel pump seem to work, I redid all connections and grounds twice. Getting 12.5 volts at the power distribution and hooked battery up to my truck and still only headlights will work (won't go up and down lights just turn on) and fuel pump will prime. The only other thing that goes on is the battery light on dash

any help is appreciated
I ran the power cable from the trunk, up to the engine bay. Then used a side post adapter to connect the ring terminal of the relocation cable to the factory positive battery cable and clamp.

On my old car, I welded a stud to the floor of the trunk and connected the battery ground there. But on my new car, I didn't have access to a welder, so I ran the battery ground to the sheet metal behind the strut tower, near the rear speaker.

I was a little worried about the thin gauge of that steel, and it overheating with the current passing though it, so I did a test. I pointed an infrared thermometer at that area, then had a helper crank the car over and over, maybe 10 seconds at a time for a minute or two. This is when the current draw is highest because of the starter motor. I didn't see any increase in temperature during my test, so I stuck with that location.

Both setups worked fine.

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Old 06-06-2017, 01:25 PM   #21118
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Can anyone confirm for me that maxima tie rod ends are in fact 14mm? I bought moog S14 ones and they are 12mm thin ones like the S13. I got P2M inners that are thick, if I buy Maxima outers I should be alright?

Last edited by Thursday7; 06-08-2017 at 09:57 AM..
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Old 06-06-2017, 06:34 PM   #21119
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Quote:
I ran the power cable from the trunk, up to the engine bay. Then used a side post adapter to connect the ring terminal of the relocation cable to the factory positive battery cable and clamp.

On my old car, I welded a stud to the floor of the trunk and connected the battery ground there. But on my new car, I didn't have access to a welder, so I ran the battery ground to the sheet metal behind the strut tower, near the rear speaker.

I was a little worried about the thin gauge of that steel, and it overheating with the current passing though it, so I did a test. I pointed an infrared thermometer at that area, then had a helper crank the car over and over, maybe 10 seconds at a time for a minute or two. This is when the current draw is highest because of the starter motor. I didn't see any increase in temperature during my test, so I stuck with that location.

Both setups worked fine.
Damn I wish I thought/knew about those, would've been nice to retain factory + terminal.
this is the power distributor I'm using; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did a lot of research before attempting this so I'm fairly sure I did everything correctly... this has me stumped for days and I wanna get out and drive

If anyone had a similar problem or can chime in with some info please do!
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Old 06-07-2017, 08:12 AM   #21120
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Quote:
having some weird issues after relocating battery to trunk, only the headlights and fuel pump seem to work, I redid all connections and grounds twice. Getting 12.5 volts at the power distribution and hooked battery up to my truck and still only headlights will work (won't go up and down lights just turn on) and fuel pump will prime. The only other thing that goes on is the battery light on dash
Pulled the battery out of my brothers car to test it and same thing.. so I know it's not the battery.. checked all fuses are fine everything is plugged in and grounded correctly...
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