Rear track extension with driftworks RLCA moves the wheel back?

[Mobne]

Im doing a project now to widen the rear track of the car.
I want to go 25mm plus on each side, moving the rear knuckles out that amount on each side. S13 subframe.

The issue I have is when I extend the RLCA that amount the wheel position in the wheel arch is moved backwards because of the angle of the control arms.

Is this just the way it is?
At this point I’m having a gap on the front side of the wheel at 7cm and 3cm on the back side.

What to do? I’m i the first ever to want to do this?

[slider2828]

Did you get a re-alignment? The others arms are also dependent on the rlca.

[Mobne]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Did you get a re-alignment? The others arms are also dependent on the rlca.

All arms are adjusted to compensate the extension. The wheel moves backwards.
When you look at the lower control arm it sits in an angle attached to the subframe. Extending it moves the hub backwards. I guess it’s nothing I can do about this I’m just curious if this has been done before and if they got the same results.

https://ibb.co/ivw4Vo

[di-devol]

Only thing I can think of looking st the picture of them, you sure they on the right side? lol

[Mobne]

Originally Posted by di-devol

Only thing I can think of looking st the picture of them, you sure they on the right side? lol

Hehe yes they are. Issue starts to show when I extend the track. At the shortest setting (Oem) it’s centered.

[di-devol]

Originally Posted by Mobne

Hehe yes they are. Issue starts to show when I extend the track. At the shortest setting (Oem) it’s centered.

I wonder if shortening the traction rod will pull it back to center. Give them a call

[Mobne]

I had extended the traction rod also. This moved the wheel backwards.
This geometry is advanced shit.

I have extended the rlca 35mm
I want to have close to zero toe and 3deg camber. Should the traction rod be Oem length?

[PoorMans180SX]

The problem lies with your control arms. Newer GKtech and Parts Shop Max offerings are built with the adjustment axis parallel to the axle, so that this doesn't happen.

[1on1]

Shortening the traction rod will center the wheel. Just remember to realign the other arms to get proper settings. If your traction rod is maxed by shortening it, you may need custom ones to re-center the wheel in the middle (I highly doubt you would need this though).

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by 1on1

Shortening the traction rod will center the wheel. Just remember to realign the other arms to get proper settings. If your traction rod is maxed by shortening it, you may need custom ones to re-center the wheel in the middle (I highly doubt you would need this though).

Not a good idea. Bumpsteer will be horrendous.

[Jcc0033]

^^^
Also why not just use lower offset wheels/ spacers to extend the rear instead of this round about expensive way of doing it? I'm assuming its not for any performance advantage..

[Mobne]

Originally Posted by Jcc0033

^^^
Also why not just use lower offset wheels/ spacers to extend the rear instead of this round about expensive way of doing it? I'm assuming its not for any performance advantage..

Well instead of questioning my choice and why it’s made focus on answering the topic instead.
Why I chose to extend the rear track is to fit the cv axle spacers and Nissan 350z cv axles.

No I did not want to run welded axle stubs so please don’t tell me I should have.

Thanks!

Useful information.
With the rlca extended 30mm from it’s shortest position (driftworks arms), i now have 2.5deg camber in the rear. I can’t go lower on the camber because there is not enough threads on the RUCA.

Does anyone know a RUCA that has long threaded uniball? Any ideas?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Mobne

Well instead of questioning my choice and why it’s made focus on answering the topic instead.
Why I chose to extend the rear track is to fit the cv axle spacers and Nissan 350z cv axles.

No I did not want to run welded axle stubs so please don’t tell me I should have.

Weir performance will release their forged chromoly R200 6x1 axle stubs soon.

If you're not plotting bumpsteer, you shouldn't do what you're doing. Unless of course, you don't care about possibly making your car perform/handle worse.

[Mobne]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Weir performance will release their forged chromoly R200 6x1 axle stubs soon.

If you're not plotting bumpsteer, you shouldn't do what you're doing. Unless of course, you don't care about possibly making your car perform/handle worse.

I really should check the bump steer.
Any guides on how to build a simple rig for it?

I saw some dude who had an indicator gauge and a metal sheet on the hub and checked it like that when rising the hub.

I need a RUCA with longer threads then the driftworks one. I’m stuck with 2.5deg camber now because I’m out of threads on the uniball.

Any ideas on what I should do there?

[TheRealSy90]

I believe there's a MotoIQ article that covers measuring through the suspension articulation.

[Mobne]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

I believe there's a MotoIQ article that covers measuring through the suspension articulation.

Link?

Does no one have an idea for me how to over come the problem with the RUCA being to short and out of adjustment threads.

Can i buy the unibal endlink with longer stud on? Any ideas?

[Mobne]

Im really storting to think is too advanced for me.

To avoid bump steer problems ruca and traction rod must have the same ratio of adjustment.
Is it a good idea to keep those 2 standard, and change camber with the rlca instead?
And the toe with the toe rod ofcoruce. This way there should be no changes to the upper control arm to adjust the camber and bumpsteer would not be affected?


Any one done it this way?