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Old 02-01-2017, 04:37 AM   #20731
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Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
Yes. After poking around on rockauto (I'm looking a BBK options at the moment) it actually looks like the pads are the same between abs & non-abs. Just differs by 95-96 and 97-98 models. ABS had larger rotors. So just look for pads for a 95, should be good.
July 96 forward uses all ABS sizes(this can apply to zenki's too, that fall at end model build dates like mine) My bitch was built when Champagne Supernova was charting, and Hawaii's Japanese club girl scene was trying to draw white boys in with advertised half price pints of Guinness over on Kalakaua
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Old 02-01-2017, 06:51 AM   #20732
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:31 AM   #20733
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Anyone know the width and height of an s13 Silvia headlight cover housing? Currently don't have one sitting in front of me to measure. Preferably the back mating face to the bulb housing. Thanks.
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Old 02-01-2017, 12:48 PM   #20734
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5 dyno pulls = broken in
5 runs down the road through 5th gear = broken in

Do you think an endurance race engine goes through 1000 miles of sub performance running to break in? If you built your engine correctly with the good race quality parts, treat it like what it is, a race engine. If the same engine build can run 24 hours or 25 hours at speed, your built 240 ka or sr will hold the same reliability
I agree with most everything here except as a precaution i would take it easy for the first 500-1000 miles
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:37 PM   #20735
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does anyone have pics that are running a map sensor on the SR? I'm going aem standalone but couldn't find any good pics of how anyone mounted their map sensors, any help is appreciated thanks!
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:41 PM   #20736
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How can this thing "switch" from AWD to RWD? I assume it has ATTESA?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okdfIf3f5Ag
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Old 02-01-2017, 08:47 PM   #20737
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How can this thing "switch" from AWD to RWD? I assume it has ATTESA?

Since it has a GTR drivetrain, probably the same way a GTR can switch from awd to rwd.




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Old 02-02-2017, 10:21 AM   #20738
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I bought a blown sr and it doesnt have the rod and main caps. Am i fucked?

And does any run pbm rear knuckles with kazama ruca on here?
The kazamas don't work on the gk tech knuckles (-.-)

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Old 02-02-2017, 12:50 PM   #20739
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On a basic T25 setup, what source do I connect to the nipple on the actuator? Every diagram shows to connect it to a nipple on the compressor housing but the stock T25's and T28's don't have a nipple there.
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:53 PM   #20740
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Anybody have some Used Nissan Shank/mag style lugs sitting around? I need 5 ASAP
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No because I don't want to do another 5 lug conversion.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:22 PM   #20741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jared420sx View Post
I bought a blown sr and it doesnt have the rod and main caps. Am i fucked?

And does any run pbm rear knuckles with kazama ruca on here?
The kazamas don't work on the gk tech knuckles (-.-)
I'll take those rear knuckles off your hands if you dont end up using them.
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On a basic T25 setup, what source do I connect to the nipple on the actuator? Every diagram shows to connect it to a nipple on the compressor housing but the stock T25's and T28's don't have a nipple there.
drill and tap a hole into the outlet and screw in a brass fitting.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:38 PM   #20742
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I'll take those rear knuckles off your hands if you dont end up using them.

drill and tap a hole into the outlet and screw in a brass fitting.
I have a hard time believing this is what most people do.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:46 PM   #20743
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You can run a vac line from the throttle body but I like to drill and tap the outlet, as well.
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Old 02-02-2017, 02:05 PM   #20744
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I have a hard time believing this is what most people do.
Run it to the throttle body, there's like 3 vacuum sources there
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Old 02-02-2017, 02:30 PM   #20745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thursday7 View Post
On a basic T25 setup, what source do I connect to the nipple on the actuator? Every diagram shows to connect it to a nipple on the compressor housing but the stock T25's and T28's don't have a nipple there.

If you're referring to the oem vacuum diagrams, this line would actually be connected to the factory boost pressure solenoid, which would then go to the factory charge piping right after the compressor outlet.
However since you most likely don't have or use the factory boost solenoid or have the oem charge piping, you'd have to install a fitting in either the compressor housing or the charge piping. Or run the line to the throttle body if you have to.
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Old 02-02-2017, 02:37 PM   #20746
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I'd rather buy a few feet of vac tube than order fittings and a tap. Thanks guys.
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Old 02-02-2017, 04:00 PM   #20747
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I'd rather buy a few feet of vac tube than order fittings and a tap. Thanks guys.
its a more accurate source doing it on the turbo itself, plus you wont have a big ugly rubber hose running from your turbo to where ever you source vacuum from. A lot of modern turbos use this same set up as well. The guy who had my car before me did the tap method and i thought it was stupid initially, now that ive cleaned up my engine bay, changed turbos and upgraded with an HKS wastegate... i was quite happy with the tapped setup. one small piece of hose to deal with.

besides, investing $30 into a tap set from autozone or sears is just a great idea to begin with... ive used mine countless of times over the years due to the former owner of my car (as well as my previous chassis) using incorrect torque or threads just wearing out due to age/heat/thread lock.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:20 AM   #20748
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Anyone know the sizes for s13 stock rear caliper bolts (torque member fixing bolts)?
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Old 02-04-2017, 12:13 PM   #20749
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Got new tein rods and they wont rotate, I've tried heating and tapping to try and break them loose but no dice, any suggestions?
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Old 02-04-2017, 10:38 PM   #20750
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Has anyone ever tried a r32 gtr gurney flap on a s14 kouki wing?
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Old 02-05-2017, 07:23 AM   #20751
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Quote:
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Got new tein rods and they wont rotate, I've tried heating and tapping to try and break them loose but no dice, any suggestions?
Stand them upright, and use Kroil. The shit works. It may take two applications over 48 hours, but your threads will clear and move

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Has anyone ever tried a r32 gtr gurney flap on a s14 kouki wing?
Aren't the R32 and Kouki wing the same except for the mount uprights?
You can mock up chicken wire and make your own with fiberglass or carbon fiber or kydex. If it's for looks only, you will have to trim and fit the bottom to the kouki spoiler. If you have friends with an R32 and a 240 with a kouki wing, just get them together to compare
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Old 02-06-2017, 10:41 AM   #20752
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Any place to get the S15 silvia "Silvia" badge/emblem cheaper than $50 on ebay? Doesn't have to be OEM or from a dealer. Need it to make an impression into fiberglass
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Old 02-06-2017, 06:03 PM   #20753
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Going to piece together a ka exhaust. Was thinking 2.5in piping. And i want a cat.
Other than that im clueless. Dont want it loud and sound like a raspy fart.
Any ideas? Suggestions on muffler selection? Resonater selection? I dont want a fart can either and a straight pipe is gross too. Help!
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Old 02-06-2017, 06:09 PM   #20754
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Any place to get the S15 silvia "Silvia" badge/emblem cheaper than $50 on ebay? Doesn't have to be OEM or from a dealer. Need it to make an impression into fiberglass
$35 bucks

http://www.nissanraceshop.com/produc...lem-nameplate/
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Old 02-06-2017, 07:07 PM   #20755
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Anyone know their way around a pre powerstroke (international IDI 6.9) ford diesel?

Getting intermittent (in presence and intensity - sometimes, especially when cold, none, generally moderate to heavy when hot) white smoke, turns on and off abruptly, often accompanied by engine rocking as though missing, though even during decel.

I assume I have a sticking injector and/or damaged injection pump thats dumping fuel - anyone have any diesel diagnostic tips for isolating this?

It's 2wd 86 250 auto.
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Old 02-07-2017, 04:57 AM   #20756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jared420sx View Post
Going to piece together a ka exhaust. Was thinking 2.5in piping. And i want a cat.
Other than that im clueless. Dont want it loud and sound like a raspy fart.
Any ideas? Suggestions on muffler selection? Resonater selection? I dont want a fart can either and a straight pipe is gross too. Help!
Summit Racing has everything you need. Mandrel bends, a 2.5" tubing expander, wide competition clamps, and mufflers, and free flow cat. You're going to want to run SS pieces since you are in NY. Get a Moroso Spirocore muffler to use as a resonator, and use any stainless muffler you find on Amazon for cheap.
You will have a very mellow sounding exhaust that will not be raspy, and will idle quit, and at wfo will not be obnoxious.
Or you can contact OBX Racing and just get the whole system
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:35 AM   #20757
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Thank you redline !
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:29 PM   #20758
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

Help me ID these connectors please. I'm trying to trim out unnecessary functions.

For number 1, I know that it's the harness for the rear speakers, what is that lone wire though? Is that a trigger or power wire for the OEM amplifier system?

Number 2 is part of the harness running along the driver's side withe the tail lights and stuff.

Number 3 was taped under the center console not attached to anything.

Number 4 is passenger side under dash area.

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Old 02-08-2017, 07:00 AM   #20759
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So I just did a HG on my SR. It was not blown or anything but had motor out anyway, I put in a fresh OEM HG and ARP studs in. I realized I did not put RTV on the front cover area on the HG?

Will that cause issues/leaks? (Used OEM gasket because motor is still stock)
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Old 02-08-2017, 07:07 AM   #20760
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So I just did a HG on my SR. It was not blown or anything but had motor out anyway, I put in a fresh OEM HG and ARP studs in. I realized I did not put RTV on the front cover area on the HG?

Will that cause issues/leaks? (Used OEM gasket because motor is still stock)
Should be fine, I don't think the FSM called for RTV on the HG anyway. It may seep at some point, but that's about it.
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