S13 1UZFE - Street Shark in Progress (vhate)

[Panda-Eats-240]

I once was a young lad that fell in love with the s-chassis. I lurked the forums for years until I finally made an account, and then started looking for my own little 240. (used to stick mainly to 240sxforums, but activity has been dead there for a while I guess. So I'm finally starting a thread here.)

They're pretty rare to come by around here, and one day on my way to school I saw one parked outside the police department covered in snow. Stopped just to take a look at it and saw a piece of paper on the window with info on the police auction. FUCK YEAH.

Got it for $1500 after they told me no problems and that it ran fine. It didnt run fine. I didnt know enough at the time, but I assumed it was either a head gasket or bad rings so I decided to tear the KA out.

(When I first got it)











You know how things go, It got put off and has sat for 5 years.

I started doing the little things like fender wire tuck, sleepy eyes controller, gauge lights, and stupid shit a high schooler would do in his free time. Despite the clean interior I started on the half gut.





Wasn't even old enough to buy dry ice.





After a lot of back and forth research, I decided that a 1uz would be a great option for my budget. ~250hp/tq, lightweight, and very balanced. The v8 sound is just an added bonus!

Got a little ambition and got more intensive with it by pulling the motor, cutting the rust, yada yada. Cleaning it up and getting ready to turn it into a real build.

Starting with this big gundle of grand daddy purp mouse nest












I sold my thunderbird and got a partially complete s13 1uz swap from FidelCashflo here on the forums.








Motor after picking it up, loading it into the shed backwoods hillbilly style.


After paint




Flywheel, tranny mount, ecu, ignitors


Adapter plate, clutch, etc.




And recently started my fusebox relocation/wire tuck







I'll get back to this later tonight.

[Kingbaby]

in for the shark part

[sarhd]

Damn more and more 1uz coming out of the wood works

[Panda-Eats-240]

Updates will be coming real soon, I've been pretty low on spending money lately but this week I'll be ordering up some parts.

[Panda-Eats-240]

When I got the motor the intake plenum was cracked off, the pressure plate is worn and blued, and he never sent me my motor mounts nor refunded me in any way shape or form for the intake. Gotta love it, but oh well..

If anybody has any tips/tricks or wanna chime in on the swap be my guest, I haven't had a whole lot of people to talk to about it and it would be nice.

[shoguner]

Originally Posted by Panda-Eats-240

When I got the motor the intake plenum was cracked off, the pressure plate is worn and blued, and he never sent me my motor mounts nor refunded me in any way shape or form for the intake. Gotta love it, but oh well..

If anybody has any tips/tricks or wanna chime in on the swap be my guest, I haven't had a whole lot of people to talk to about it and it would be nice.

XAT rippin you off eh?

I bought their triple plate and their adaptor was hella messed, cost me a
transmission.

Ended up going with a 3sgte flywheel, sr20det clutch, and 3sgte pressure plate. Grabs nice.

What year is your engine?

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by shoguner

XAT rippin you off eh?

I bought their triple plate and their adaptor was hella messed, cost me a
transmission.

Ended up going with a 3sgte flywheel, sr20det clutch, and 3sgte pressure plate. Grabs nice.

What year is your engine?

It's 'FidelCashflo' here on the forums, but he's on many forums selling various parts..


Motor I was told was from a 96 LS400. It's a new custom flywheel, sr 6-puck clutch, and 3sgte pressure plate. So looks like we've basically got the same setup eh?

I hope I don't find any new problems with the parts when it comes time to put it all together. Flywheel would be my main concern.

[psi999]

Lol that wiring looks interesting.... I thought i had it bad!!!

Loving the 1UZ

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by psi999

Lol that wiring looks interesting.... I thought i had it bad!!!

Loving the 1UZ

You're tellin me... I got excited and pulled everything apart before labeling a single plug. So it's interesting to say the least to get it all sorted out again. Eh, just a mistake I won't make the second time around!

[imoverherre]

Glad more and more people are going 1uz now. I myself doing that swap and finally got the last part to drop in the motor, all I need to do if figure out the wiring. That I don't what to mess with since I'll have no clue what would I be doing lol.

[Panda-Eats-240]

It was also from my understanding that If you extend the throwout release sleeve 1/2"-5/8" then you do NOT need to machine down your bellhousing. Yay or nay?

[Derek_McDermott]

Sweet build love the 1uz.

[s4cxnick]

yo, a local minnesotan here! doing the 1uz s13 swap as well.. basic motor setup, custom mounts, brett collins plate for sr trans, and lightweight flywheel from him as well. lemme know what you need help with, just finished wiring mine as well, cranks and fires! pm me for my number, im not on here often so chances are i wont keep up with the thread. ill help best as i can and to the best of my knowledge so far.

edit:

shouldnt matter on the TOB if the edges are a bit off from the original as long as everything lines up fine still. if the fork attaches to the new edges and whatnot just fine.

DO NOT MILL THE HOUSING, thats why the extended throw out is made for. i made the mistake trust me. lol

and the adapter for the pilot bushing looks way different than mine.. as far as i know it still uses the original bushing, just need that aluminum to make up for the space and diameter of the crank end from the UZ motor to the input shaft of the trans youre using.

[Drifting Kalamari]

Loving the build thread!! I'm doing a S13 1uz aswell.

The engine I see hanging from the tree looks like it's from a SC400. The LS400 has the oil pan in the front, not the back. Besides that, it is looking great!

[shoguner]

Originally Posted by Panda-Eats-240

Well I ran into a couple questions with my lack of mechanical knowledge as I'm now trying to get the tranny mated up to the motor so I can work on getting it into the car.

1. Am I supposed to completely replace the pilot bearing with this adaptor? Seems odd to not have a bearing where such fast rpm's will be happening.

2. Does it matter if the knobs on the end of the throwout release sleeve that was welded on to be extended are a little bit uneven with the original ones below it? Maybe causing some rotational imbalance or something, I dont know I just want to be safe.

example:
On mine the end thats welded on is centered, but rotated a little bit from the two knobs sticking out below them. From my understanding I could cut the old original knobs off if I wanted sine they're only meant to rest on the clutch fork and now thats being done with the new section?


3. It was also from my understanding that If you extend the throwout release sleeve 1/2"-5/8" then you do NOT need to machine down your bellhousing. Yay or nay?

1 Yes replace the whole bearing. Nissan's use bushings. Wren those brass bushings heat up, they let out some oil.
2. That is fine, That's how mine looks.
3. YOU have to messure to see if you need to mill your housing. I extended my TOB AND milled my housing.

Originally Posted by s4cxnick

yo, a local minnesotan here! doing the 1uz s13 swap as well.. basic motor setup, custom mounts, brett collins plate for sr trans, and lightweight flywheel from him as well. lemme know what you need help with, just finished wiring mine as well, cranks and fires! pm me for my number, im not on here often so chances are i wont keep up with the thread. ill help best as i can and to the best of my knowledge so far.

edit:

shouldnt matter on the TOB if the edges are a bit off from the original as long as everything lines up fine still. if the fork attaches to the new edges and whatnot just fine.

DO NOT MILL THE HOUSING, thats why the extended throw out is made for. i made the mistake trust me. lol

and the adapter for the pilot bushing looks way different than mine.. as far as i know it still uses the original bushing, just need that aluminum to make up for the space and diameter of the crank end from the UZ motor to the input shaft of the trans youre using.

The extended TOB is to move the TOB to the clutch. You still need to messure to see if your input shaft will have enough penetration to your clutch.


See the blue thing? I only had, maybe 1/2in of penetration.
That was before milling.

Also, DO NOT FORGET YOUR SPACERS FOR YOUR FLYWHEEL.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by s4cxnick

yo, a local minnesotan here! doing the 1uz s13 swap as well.. basic motor setup, custom mounts, brett collins plate for sr trans, and lightweight flywheel from him as well. lemme know what you need help with, just finished wiring mine as well, cranks and fires! pm me for my number, im not on here often so chances are i wont keep up with the thread. ill help best as i can and to the best of my knowledge so far.

edit:

shouldnt matter on the TOB if the edges are a bit off from the original as long as everything lines up fine still. if the fork attaches to the new edges and whatnot just fine.

DO NOT MILL THE HOUSING, thats why the extended throw out is made for. i made the mistake trust me. lol

and the adapter for the pilot bushing looks way different than mine.. as far as i know it still uses the original bushing, just need that aluminum to make up for the space and diameter of the crank end from the UZ motor to the input shaft of the trans youre using.

Where in MN? I'm in the fargo/moorhead area

I read somewhere that nissans dont use the bearings, and it would only make sense that it's meant to replace the whole thing given the dimensions of the bushing. Shoguner just clarified it for me

Originally Posted by Drifting Kalamari

Loving the build thread!! I'm doing a S13 1uz aswell.

The engine I see hanging from the tree looks like it's from a SC400. The LS400 has the oil pan in the front, not the back. Besides that, it is looking great!

I was told that it's an LS motor but he had switched pans with the SC for whatever reason, thanks!

Originally Posted by shoguner

1 Yes replace the whole bearing. Nissan's use bushings. Wren those brass bushings heat up, they let out some oil.
2. That is fine, That's how mine looks.
3. YOU have to messure to see if you need to mill your housing. I extended my TOB AND milled my housing.




The extended TOB is to move the TOB to the clutch. You still need to messure to see if your input shaft will have enough penetration to your clutch.


See the blue thing? I only had, maybe 1/2in of penetration.
That was before milling.

Also, DO NOT FORGET YOUR SPACERS FOR YOUR FLYWHEEL.

Forgive my lack of knowledge, but how would I go about measuring the penetration, assemble everything and pivot the clutch fork?

I also wasn't aware of needing any flywheel spacers

[s4cxnick]

why would you have to mill the housing still? i talked to brett collins directly about doing just that.. and he told me the extended tob is to stop from milling the housing, if you mill the housing like i did, you'll end up bottoming out the input shaft into the crank like i did. so unless you want to mill the end of the input shaft as well, so make up for that, than go for it. i drove my car the other day with the extended tob and no milling what so ever done to the housing and had no issues...? but yeah you need the thick shim that went between the ring gear and crank i believe..

oh and im from austin, 15 minutes from IA boarder, lol

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by s4cxnick

why would you have to mill the housing still? i talked to brett collins directly about doing just that.. and he told me the extended tob is to stop from milling the housing, if you mill the housing like i did, you'll end up bottoming out the input shaft into the crank like i did. so unless you want to mill the end of the input shaft as well, so make up for that, than go for it. i drove my car the other day with the extended tob and no milling what so ever done to the housing and had no issues...? but yeah you need the thick shim that went between the ring gear and crank i believe..

oh and im from austin, 15 minutes from IA boarder, lol

Could you point me to somewhere with info on the shim? I've looked through numerous builds and haven't seen one mentioned

[JDMcheddar]

oh shit there he is. I was never aware of needing any shims on the fly wheel either?

[shoguner]

Originally Posted by s4cxnick

why would you have to mill the housing still? i talked to brett collins directly about doing just that.. and he told me the extended tob is to stop from milling the housing, if you mill the housing like i did, you'll end up bottoming out the input shaft into the crank like i did. so unless you want to mill the end of the input shaft as well, so make up for that, than go for it. i drove my car the other day with the extended tob and no milling what so ever done to the housing and had no issues...? but yeah you need the thick shim that went between the ring gear and crank i believe..

oh and im from austin, 15 minutes from IA boarder, lol

What tranmission are you using?
350z you HAVE to measure.

Originally Posted by Panda-Eats-240

Could you point me to somewhere with info on the shim? I've looked through numerous builds and haven't seen one mentioned

It's a factory spacer for the flexplate

There are 2. A smaller one and a bigger one, i am not sure which one i used haha.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by shoguner

What tranmission are you using?
350z you HAVE to measure.



It's a factory spacer for the flexplate

There are 2. A smaller one and a bigger one, i am not sure which one i used haha.

Ahhhh you must be thinking I'm using the Z tranny, I'm using an SR20 tranny so as far as I know I don't need any spacers or anything besides the extended TOB and it should end up in the factory location, if not the most I'd have to do is shorten my driveshaft/get a new one piece made that's 2" shorter.

[shoguner]

Originally Posted by Panda-Eats-240

Ahhhh you must be thinking I'm using the Z tranny, I'm using an SR20 tranny so as far as I know I don't need any spacers or anything besides the extended TOB and it should end up in the factory location, if not the most I'd have to do is shorten my driveshaft/get a new one piece made that's 2" shorter.

Ah, yes. Sorry.
But i would double measure everything, just in case.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Welp, got a mini parts package.

4age arp flywheel bolts as I'm not sure if I trust what he sold me
Arp pressure plate bolts (same reason as above)
Auto to manual clutch line
Clutch fork boot, fork retainer clip, and throw out retainer clip
Throw out bearing
Drift button and tein air fresheners hamanahamana

Backup pan so i can work on welding trap doors into one of them.

So now all I really need is a manual driveshaft, tranny crossmember, and 1uz wiring harness
(I do still need motor mounts, FidelCashflo still owes me them which will probably never happen.) And to finish my wiring mess.

[Panda-Eats-240]

My extended throwout was welded like shit and barely even welded on one side. So I beefed that up


But this is what I'm talking about it being welded on rotated a little with the knobs



It probably doesn't matter as long as its actually centered, but I don't wanna run into any problems later..

Also cut my starter bolt heads down, put new retainer clips on, and hammered the throwout bearing onto the sleeve (All of this today on lunch break at work)




Side note:

Here's a little project I'm doing at work. Full custom interior on a 1927 Chevy I believe. Just cutting and forming the panels that'll soon get clips added and then foamed and fabric over.



The only shot of the seats that I have on my phone, it has two benches with big curves backs like this

[Panda-Eats-240]

Picking up a light rack for the garage tomorrow and finding a heater.

I started to rig up all my parts (flywheel, throttle bearing, fork, boot, clutch slave with braided auto to manual line, etc) and will drill out the holes for the clutch master when I'm not being a lazy ass.



I noticed that 1uz's come in front, rear, and mid sump. So I have the mid sump correct? I'm wondering if it will clear the rack, though it probably doesn't. It would just save another weeks time with the project as I don't know yet everything I'll need to convert it to front sump (just the pan and pickup tube?).

[Fries]

It wont clear the rack. The front sump with the collins (or anyone elses) mounts just BARELY clear the rack. You need the LS400 front sump setup. You could check Supra 1uz forums since they need the rear setup.

The wiring is actually pretty easy. You just gotta set up a couple relays and fuses.

Let me know if that conversion clutch line fits. I remember it being just long enough for the stock setup and this one will place the slave cylinder just 2 inches further back.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by Fries

It wont clear the rack. The front sump with the collins (or anyone elses) mounts just BARELY clear the rack. You need the LS400 front sump setup. You could check Supra 1uz forums since they need the rear setup.

The wiring is actually pretty easy. You just gotta set up a couple relays and fuses.

Let me know if that conversion clutch line fits. I remember it being just long enough for the stock setup and this one will place the slave cylinder just 2 inches further back.

Balls. I'll have to call a couple scrapyards as well, thanks for the tip

I'll deal with the wiring once the motor is ready/almost ready to be dropped in, dont want nunna dat stress right now..


So you're saying a 1UZ mounted to an SR tranny will indeed need to be placed 2" back? I do plan on a sikky sway bar if that's what makes a difference in getting stock positioning.

[Fries]

Because of the motor mounts, it places the transmission 2" back from where it originally sat. That's why you need to have a little piece added to your transmission xmember (because only 1 bolt hole lines up) and have a shortened driveshaft made.

Incase you didn't know, we have a nice little chat/thread on the 1uz.
http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/3303...s-chassis.html

[s4cxnick]

motor mounts are pretty cake to custom make..

on my setup were custom made 3/8ths metal plates, one on the crossmember and the other bolted up to the motor, and a 3/8th thick metal tube going between, welded up with a nut on the inside of the crossmember plate. so i can thread a bolt and washer in from the bottom side of the crossmember, where the original mounts bolted up. works mint, kept the original trans mount and driveshaft length and all. just didnt leave much room up front but it works just fine as far as im concerned.

wiring was pretty easy as well. i did 3 toggles, racecar style
1st toggle for cranking purposes, ign wire from the dash harness wasnt getting power anymore for me(no idea why), otherwise you can just use the orange wire. that comes off the ecu and plugs into the dash.
2nd toggle & relay for the fuel pump.
3rd toggle is for all the switched powers you're supposed to have.
the ecu constant power is just a wire ran straight from the plug on the chassis, i believe its a big red wire, on the gray plug. just cut that and run er to the motor harness connect eb1 i think? double check.

and bam. motor cranks and fires right up!

but yeah, my motor came with a mid sump pan, i ordered the whole pan setup from ebay, costed like 200, couldve got it cheaper from the j-yard.. but oh well. you need the upper and lower pan, strainer and gasket.. easy change out.

and i am using an sr20 tranny as well so thats why i was curious about the whole measuring thing with the clutch engagement.

oh btw, i just took the front sway bar out, because my motor sits too close and pan hits the bar, ive heard sikky bars work fine, but also heard they arent even needed.. no difference made without the front bar..

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by Fries

Because of the motor mounts, it places the transmission 2" back from where it originally sat. That's why you need to have a little piece added to your transmission xmember (because only 1 bolt hole lines up) and have a shortened driveshaft made.

Incase you didn't know, we have a nice little chat/thread on the 1uz.
http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/3303...s-chassis.html

Could I just drill or extend the holes on ebay/collins mounts to get the tranny to sit in the factory location?

Also before I order one, do I really even need a 5-speed crossmember or can the auto be easily modified especially if I end up making plates to move it back?

Originally Posted by s4cxnick

motor mounts are pretty cake to custom make..

on my setup were custom made 3/8ths metal plates, one on the crossmember and the other bolted up to the motor, and a 3/8th thick metal tube going between, welded up with a nut on the inside of the crossmember plate. so i can thread a bolt and washer in from the bottom side of the crossmember, where the original mounts bolted up. works mint, kept the original trans mount and driveshaft length and all. just didnt leave much room up front but it works just fine as far as im concerned.

wiring was pretty easy as well. i did 3 toggles, racecar style
1st toggle for cranking purposes, ign wire from the dash harness wasnt getting power anymore for me(no idea why), otherwise you can just use the orange wire. that comes off the ecu and plugs into the dash.
2nd toggle & relay for the fuel pump.
3rd toggle is for all the switched powers you're supposed to have.
the ecu constant power is just a wire ran straight from the plug on the chassis, i believe its a big red wire, on the gray plug. just cut that and run er to the motor harness connect eb1 i think? double check.

and bam. motor cranks and fires right up!

but yeah, my motor came with a mid sump pan, i ordered the whole pan setup from ebay, costed like 200, couldve got it cheaper from the j-yard.. but oh well. you need the upper and lower pan, strainer and gasket.. easy change out.

and i am using an sr20 tranny as well so thats why i was curious about the whole measuring thing with the clutch engagement.

oh btw, i just took the front sway bar out, because my motor sits too close and pan hits the bar, ive heard sikky bars work fine, but also heard they arent even needed.. no difference made without the front bar..

Do you have any pictures of making your mounts?

I think I'd like to do the same wiring setup, it might be easiest now that I've got everything de-loomed and clipped out a bunch of the wiring for things not used on the chassis. But I'm still wondering what the easiest and simplest wiring setup would be now that the only things I need are pop-up motors, tail lights, turn signals, interior lights, gauge cluster, etc. I got rid of the heater, blower, AC, auto seatbelts, auto tranny wiring, speaker wiring (will be running new wire for a front component system that'll be installed the after car is running), and all the non essentials to a street-able track car. I'd really like to get rid of the wiring mess in the drivers kick panel if possible, I believe that's the SMJ with all the wires going into a plastic block?

I've heard no front sway isn't bad with coils, but I've also heard your steering response will suck regardless.. I might not have coils right away so I think I'd like to play it safe and try to run a sikky while keeping the tranny in the factory location so I don't need to extend the crossmember mounts or shorten the driveshaft. I'd be fine with notching the pan a little if needed.


Sorry for all the questions, this is my first swap and no build I've seen gives out all the info needed, so thanks for all the help. Maybe all the fine details will be layed out in here for future swaps.