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Old 12-13-2008, 12:34 AM   #121
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Old 12-13-2008, 02:05 PM   #122
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Glad to see this thread is still alive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by handinpants View Post
I have alpine Type X 5.25 component speakers in the front, and infinity kappa 6x4 in the rear, with an alpine 4 channel amp powering them, as well as an insigna (best buy) amp which powers 1 JL 10w3 sub, in a sealed truck box. I highly recommend you spend the dough and get alpine type X because it is their top line component speaker, and sounds way better than any other speaker, especially the mid range woofer... but buy them online say etronics.com because al and eds will rip you off. but have a pro audio shop install them, oh and get the dynamat in the doors with them, i did.
Hahahaha. HAHAHAHAHA. First of all, easy with the superlatives... "Better than any other speaker"? Negative. Better than stock? Sure.

And 5 1/4" components are the bastard children of the speaker world, like 4x6's. No one with any budget/taste runs them - they just don't play low enough, unless you also run an 8" mid (which sounds awesome with a 12" woofer tuned low, or a 15"). But then you're running full active crossovers which is uber-complicated for even experienced people.

My new setup is finished, pics of the 3-d models and specs are in the fabrication thread, but I'll link a couple pics here too ~

Specs:
- Alpine something-or-other high end headunit
- TRU Technololgy T4.100 w/BB IC upgrade
- CDT HD-6 6.5" mids in .3ft^3 sealed door boxes
- CDT TW-26 1" Silk-dome tweeter
- CDT SatNet 560i crossover (this makes all the difference)
- Soundstream SS10R Reference 10" sub in a huge (1.5ft^3) ported box, tuned to ~37hz, with an F3 of around 44Hz.
- Misc sound deadening (mostly Dynamat Extreme), not finished with that part yet.

Doors:


Trunk:


Might update the thread when I get pics of finished install (door panels on, trunk cleaned up - box is bolted in but everything else is just thrown in, etc) - also I'll grab a pic of the head unit and ipod dock.
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Old 12-14-2008, 01:51 AM   #123
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^^ I can't wait to see when you finish.


Hey can anyone say anything about Bazooka and or Blaupunkt GTt-1200 subs?? I'm trying to upgrade my small sub thingy to come with a bit more power but not add huge weight.
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Old 12-14-2008, 02:13 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrChow View Post
^^ I can't wait to see when you finish.


Hey can anyone say anything about Bazooka and or Blaupunkt GTt-1200 subs?? I'm trying to upgrade my small sub thingy to come with a bit more power but not add huge weight.
I've tuned a setup with two Bazooka 8's and they didn't play that low (8's WILL play low if you put them in the right box), but sounded clean, and were not that heavy. They hit pretty well, but if you're throwing in two of them, you might as well use a single 10 and a 4 or 5 channel amp (depending on if you run rears or not, I don't).

My entire trunk setup (subwoofer, box, and the only amp) weighs less than 50lbs - making the box out of 1/2" birch and treating it with fiberglass resin makes a box that's just as strong as 3/4" MDF at half the weight! And that's a 2ft box!

If anyone wants me to make them custom sub boxes, tell me what kind of sub you want/have and I'll look up the specs, design the box and 3/d model it to see where you want it to go... like this:

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Old 12-14-2008, 02:24 AM   #125
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i have in the front are pioneer 6x4 and 4in in the rear with a hifonics 12 and a 1200 watt amp
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Old 12-14-2008, 02:33 AM   #126
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I just downsized a bit, now I'm only running a Kicker KX850.4 running 6.5" Alpine Type-R components up front, and Pioneer Rev series (Yellow Kevlar cone model) 6.5"s in the rear. No sub anymore, it got sold. HU is a Pioneer Premier DEH-680MP.
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Old 12-14-2008, 02:47 AM   #127
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man. every time i see this thread, it makes me miss my system. i used to have a decent set-up. if i remember i had 2-12" cerwin-vega strokers 1400rms, running i forget what series phoenix gold components, which were the 2 door speakers and 2 rear speakers, 4 bose tweeters located on the trim that runs along side the headliner. a rockford fosgate 850.2 for the subs and a jl 400.4 for the speakers. each component speaker had an equalizer for it, had a crossover, ran a battery isolater to an oddyssey battery, a digital 2 farad capacitor, and some pioneer head unit. subs, amps, crossovers, battery, capacitor, and fans installed for amps were enclosed in a full custom box made by usign the trunk itself. dynomat, resin, more resin, and nice inch thick wood were used to make the box. i think my best was almost 130 decibals. it was pretty neat. i'll note that i did none of the work, was taken to a local shop. but, just far too much weight for a 240, and to be honest i was more into systems back then. just posting up, so you guys can know if for some reason you want to, that you can put a pretty big set-up in a 240.
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Old 12-14-2008, 02:54 AM   #128
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I have a lower level Kenwood Excelon H/U with stock speakers up front and two Infinity Kappas with rotatable tweeters in the rear(6 1/2's). This is in my S13 coupe. Personally I think Kenwood has lost some of its luster compared to a few years ago. Going to eventually change the h/u out for something better, Do two sets of MB Quart 6 1/2 inch mids and 1" tweeters(cross overs of coarse) in the door or Run JL mids not to sure yet unless someone else has a better suggestion on mids. Get a 4 channel amp to the mids. Not sure which kind yet and be done with audio Maybe an 8inch woofer and 2 channel amp if I have time. Figured Since nobody is sitting in the back I would just move all speakers up front toward the driver. Love SQ all the way!
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Old 12-14-2008, 03:18 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
I've tuned a setup with two Bazooka 8's and they didn't play that low (8's WILL play low if you put them in the right box), but sounded clean, and were not that heavy. They hit pretty well, but if you're throwing in two of them, you might as well use a single 10 and a 4 or 5 channel amp (depending on if you run rears or not, I don't).

My entire trunk setup (subwoofer, box, and the only amp) weighs less than 50lbs - making the box out of 1/2" birch and treating it with fiberglass resin makes a box that's just as strong as 3/4" MDF at half the weight! And that's a 2ft box!

If anyone wants me to make them custom sub boxes, tell me what kind of sub you want/have and I'll look up the specs, design the box and 3/d model it to see where you want it to go... like this:
I mean the enclosed one.

Here's what I'm researching for enclosed subs.
Crutchfield.com - Compare
Then there's these for normal subs.
Crutchfield.com - Compare

I love to hear what you think. I listen to everything. Mainly Rock, Hip-hop and then techno and rave stuff (gf is a rave girl). So it's hard to hear everything I want thought the sub I have. This is the sub I have atm. Kenwood KSC-SW10.It's works for adding bass to the music. But doesn't give the "thump" we want.
My good bud has 2 12" kicker comp in his car and we love that how it hits. But I don't need to be that close.

Anyways what are your thoughts about that? I would love you to model a box for me if I when that route. Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2008, 03:48 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrChow View Post
I mean the enclosed one.

Here's what I'm researching for enclosed subs.
Crutchfield.com - Compare
Then there's these for normal subs.
Crutchfield.com - Compare

Anyways what are your thoughts about that? I would love you to model a box for me if I when that route. Thanks.
I know, I was talking about the enclosed 8 With how amazingly cheap used car audio stuff is, I don't see a reason to go with those, besides installation convenience. Are you running a stock head unit? 'Cause going to a pre-amp line-level output from a high-level speaker output makes a big difference in clarity also.

I build all my systems for SQ - that's why I'm running a lightweight, paper cone, reference-quality woofer instead of a 100lb boomer that takes a million watts to run.

If you want to PM me your current system, what your budget is, and how you want it to look, I can see what I can come up with.

That stands for anybody, but don't come at me with the typical Zilvia "I have no stereo and a $54 budget and want what you have" stuff.
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Old 12-14-2008, 12:16 PM   #131
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im car audio retarded but.

i want to run two good 6.5s up front and maybe a 10 in the back. can i just use a 4channel two run the front two and then bridge the 2 leftover channels for the 10?

not going for boom just like a little oomph to my music.
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Old 12-14-2008, 12:25 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
Glad to see this thread is still alive.



Hahahaha. HAHAHAHAHA. First of all, easy with the superlatives... "Better than any other speaker"? Negative. Better than stock? Sure.

And 5 1/4" components are the bastard children of the speaker world, like 4x6's. No one with any budget/taste runs them - they just don't play low enough, unless you also run an 8" mid (which sounds awesome with a 12" woofer tuned low, or a 15"). But then you're running full active crossovers which is uber-complicated for even experienced people.

My new setup is finished, pics of the 3-d models and specs are in the fabrication thread, but I'll link a couple pics here too ~

Specs:
- Alpine something-or-other high end headunit
- TRU Technololgy T4.100 w/BB IC upgrade
- CDT HD-6 6.5" mids in .3ft^3 sealed door boxes
- CDT TW-26 1" Silk-dome tweeter
- CDT SatNet 560i crossover (this makes all the difference)
- Soundstream SS10R Reference 10" sub in a huge (1.5ft^3) ported box, tuned to ~37hz, with an F3 of around 44Hz.
- Misc sound deadening (mostly Dynamat Extreme), not finished with that part yet.

Doors:


Trunk:


Might update the thread when I get pics of finished install (door panels on, trunk cleaned up - box is bolted in but everything else is just thrown in, etc) - also I'll grab a pic of the head unit and ipod dock.
how does the door panel fit LOL!
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Old 12-14-2008, 12:25 PM   #133
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Hey OP, I have a set of Sony Xplode 6.5" with waterproof foam baffle, ebay adaptors, and no splice plug-and-play harnesses. Front speakers only. No rear. My headunit is a Dual XDM6820.

I'm getting rid of this setup though because I'm putting in fibreglass doors.

GSXRJJORDAN, can you recommend a good pair of 6x9 pickup truck speaker boxes? I just want to listen to traffic while I drive. Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2008, 12:30 PM   #134
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i realized with my first s chassis that car audio and 240s dont match well. s14a has a wopping 4 speakers, in that bitch oversize 6.5 setup..so lame. lol
fronts are memphis audio 3 way, rears are infinity 2way. its good enough.
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:06 AM   #135
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alright, help me out GSXRJJordan.

I picked up a pretty complete system off a friend for pretty cheap:
Infinity Reference Series 652i, 6-1/2 2-way up front
Infinity Reference Series 452i, 4 inch 2-way tweeters
Infinity Reference Series 6953i, 6x9 3-way rears
Concord C2050 2/1 channel 100x2 watt amp
Rockford Fosgate Punch 600.4 75x4 watt amp
MTX Thunder 4000 12'' sub, 400 watts

I know hardly anything about sound, is this setup good to go? I need a good headunit too, can you recommend me one? I only want to spend 200 something max on the headunit with ipod hookup.
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:28 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post
GSXRJJORDAN, can you recommend a good pair of 6x9 pickup truck speaker boxes? I just want to listen to traffic while I drive. Thanks.
Honestly, I can't. If it were me, I'd get a 6.5" MDF cutout (6x9 is such a horrible speaker) and mount it on the door, and get a set of used components to put in there. If you must go 6x9, anything will do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by devonkyle77 View Post
i realized with my first s chassis that car audio and 240s dont match well. s14a has a wopping 4 speakers, in that bitch oversize 6.5 setup..so lame. lol
fronts are memphis audio 3 way, rears are infinity 2way. its good enough.
Lol the reason 240's don't make good sound has nothing to do with how many speakers they come with, and everything to do with it's lack of sound deadening and thin metal panels. I've got a serious challenge to get quality audio out of this car - I've got it at this point, as long as you're not driving... once you hit the road, the suspension/road noise takes over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SC_S13 View Post
alright, help me out GSXRJJordan.
Responded to your PM. For anyone in a similar spot, that setup is two steps above garbage - if you ever wanted *good* sound, you'd throw every single piece in the trash.

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Originally Posted by boost_addict View Post
how does the door panel fit LOL!
Here's a pic from the top, with the door closed:


The door box barely touches the side bolster of the passenger seat (which is actually an Integra type-R seat, on custom rails and a Wedge bracket). The door panel will be cut around the box, once it's covered in vinyl (so it matches the door panel) - I'll lose the little map pockets in the doors, and the factory speaker grill, but not much else.
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:41 AM   #137
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anbyoe got ideas on 150 ish 6.5s for hte front of my subaru

i was using kenwood excellons but i cant find em anymore
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Old 12-18-2008, 05:19 AM   #138
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I'm also looking for recommendations for some affordable 6.5s that i can put in the back of my car.

currently i have
Alpine CDA-9855 head unit
Infinity Kappa 6.5 component set
2 blown 6.5s in the rear
cheapo DHD 4 ch amp running the speakers
2 12" pioneer subs
kicker kx850.2 for subs

I'm actually considering ditching my woofer setup in the trunk because of the lack of space with it in the trunk, but the only way I would do that is if I could find some 6.5"s that could give me decent enough midbass.

gsxrjjordan: do you know if 8" woofers can be mounted on the rear shelf of an S14?

Would that even work? If I did do that, I would probably upgrade my 4ch amp to a better one with more power.
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Old 12-18-2008, 12:47 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yokotas13 View Post
anbyoe got ideas on 150 ish 6.5s for hte front of my subaru

i was using kenwood excellons but i cant find em anymore
"150 ish" = ~$150?

If you don't have a tweeter location available (and/or just dont want to run components), you can always get a coaxial or braxial 2-way... I'm a big fan of these:


They go for about $100, and will take >50w RMS all day. No real crossover though... for that you'd have to spend a little bit more. What amp are you running? If it's just a head unit, stick to the CL-6EX listed above.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 94cc0rd View Post
I'm also looking for recommendations for some affordable 6.5s that i can put in the back of my car.
...
gsxrjjordan: do you know if 8" woofers can be mounted on the rear shelf of an S14?
You asked very contradictory questions lol. If you want to keep your subs, throw you Kappas in the back (they're great rear fill speakers, because they're too bright/tinney and will play really loud) and get some real components in the front, and a good 4ch amp.

If you want to do something cool, you can definitely mount two 8's (I've used CDT EF-8's, and have a pair somewhere in my garage I think) in the rear deck without a box, as long as you make sure you're not overpowering them. Check out the CDT EF-80 - retail is $90 each, and they'll take 100w easily (200w max in infinite baffle I'd say), so you could bridge the rear channels of a 50wx4 amp and wire them as a 2ohm load for ~200w. Then you could ditch your subs and that Kicker amp. You'll want to damp the rear deck, or possibly put a 1/2" sheet of wood down in between some damping material, and mount the subs to that. But yeah, it's been done, and yeah, it sounds really good when done right.

You'd still want a set of tweeters back there for the fill probably though, so you're looking at another $100 at least for crossovers and tweets if you wanna go that route.

Getting tight, low bass out of 6.5" speakers is one of the holy grails of car audio, and the only way to do it right is good drivers in a sealed enclosure with a lot of power. To do it in the rear deck without a sealed box will need an 8" woofer (so you lose those mid-highs) and some control (to not blow the woofers, since theres no box, and to keep everything from shaking), but is a great alternative to my setup.
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:54 PM   #140
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i know that this is gonna sound wack, seeing with what money i have after christmas, im going to be getting a 10" W7 for my truck. but im not trying to spend to much on the amp. was looking around abit and im not sure whos reputable in amps but i found the Alpine MRP-M500, MA Audio M1900XE, Orion Cobalt CO800.1, Polk/MOMO C500.1. they're all 500watts and $200, thats around what im looking to spend. i will be building a box and my truck is already wired. so those who know anything help out?
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Old 12-18-2008, 01:58 PM   #141
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Kenwood headunit with USB connector
2 Blown Sony explode in the rear with black tape on the plastic thing lol
2 10" Rockford Puch Subs
Rockford Punch 4 channel amps
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est. total was around 1400 all from bestbuy....
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Old 12-18-2008, 02:04 PM   #142
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If anyone wants me to make them custom sub boxes, tell me what kind of sub you want/have and I'll look up the specs, design the box and 3/d model it to see where you want it to go... like this:
pm sent.
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Old 12-18-2008, 02:23 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by silviaguy240 View Post
i know that this is gonna sound wack, seeing with what money i have after christmas, im going to be getting a 10" W7 for my truck. but im not trying to spend to much on the amp. was looking around abit and im not sure whos reputable in amps but i found the Alpine MRP-M500, MA Audio M1900XE, Orion Cobalt CO800.1, Polk/MOMO C500.1. they're all 500watts and $200, thats around what im looking to spend. i will be building a box and my truck is already wired. so those who know anything help out?
DO NOT cheap out on an amp for a W7. They are hugely inefficient, and take tons of power to make good sound - that's how all the "supersubs" are. Lots of people give single W7's 1000w.

Look on CarAudioForums for a used amp that's somewhere around 800w - that way, you won't kill your amp trying to drive your 70lb 10" sub, and will spend less cash.

Quote:
Originally Posted by silly_13 View Post
Kenwood headunit with USB connector
2 Blown Sony explode in the rear with black tape on the plastic thing lol
2 10" Rockford Puch Subs
Rockford Punch 4 channel amps
Rockford Punch 1/2 Farad Capacitor
est. total was around 1400 all from bestbuy....
DO NOT buy a system from Best Buy, especially if you're going to spend that kind of cash. You're in LA, you should come listen to my system and see what you think, I can definitely build you something better for less money.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cxlo8331 View Post
pm sent.
let me know what you can do.
Don't have a PM yet...
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Old 12-18-2008, 02:32 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post

If you want to do something cool, you can definitely mount two 8's (I've used CDT EF-8's, and have a pair somewhere in my garage I think) in the rear deck without a box, as long as you make sure you're not overpowering them. Check out the CDT EF-80 - retail is $90 each, and they'll take 100w easily (200w max in infinite baffle I'd say), so you could bridge the rear channels of a 50wx4 amp and wire them as a 2ohm load for ~200w. Then you could ditch your subs and that Kicker amp. You'll want to damp the rear deck, or possibly put a 1/2" sheet of wood down in between some damping material, and mount the subs to that. But yeah, it's been done, and yeah, it sounds really good when done right.

You'd still want a set of tweeters back there for the fill probably though, so you're looking at another $100 at least for crossovers and tweets if you wanna go that route.

Getting tight, low bass out of 6.5" speakers is one of the holy grails of car audio, and the only way to do it right is good drivers in a sealed enclosure with a lot of power. To do it in the rear deck without a sealed box will need an 8" woofer (so you lose those mid-highs) and some control (to not blow the woofers, since theres no box, and to keep everything from shaking), but is a great alternative to my setup.
I really wanted to do a pair of 10 or 12 inch subs IB in the rear deck when I had my first S14, but it looked like a lot of fabbing to get them to fit and look clean. Single sealed 10 in a medium sized fiberglass trunk enclosure was good enough, anyways.

Tru w/ Burr Browns, eh? I was never really a person to go for baller amps, but they sure are pretty. I'd rather spend the money on better drivers though...or home audio.
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Old 12-18-2008, 02:40 PM   #145
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Old 12-18-2008, 02:55 PM   #146
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old deck setup

Summertime Sub
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Old 12-18-2008, 03:00 PM   #147
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alpine head unit with infinity 4X6 all around with a 500w alpine amp powering a alpine 10" type s sub in a sealed box
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:07 PM   #148
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Quote:
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"150 ish" = ~$150?

If you don't have a tweeter location available (and/or just dont want to run components), you can always get a coaxial or braxial 2-way... I'm a big fan of these:


They go for about $100, and will take >50w RMS all day. No real crossover though... for that you'd have to spend a little bit more. What amp are you running? If it's just a head unit, stick to the CL-6EX listed above.
havent decided on an amp
prolly a kenwood 5/4/2 or waever it is
i need tweeters for sure, i have to have them. i love my trbel
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:28 PM   #149
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GSXRJJORDAN, I'm not putting speakers in the fibreglass doors. I just want something clear enough to listen to the traffic. Something like a pick up truck speaker box.

What do you recommend?
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Old 12-18-2008, 11:09 PM   #150
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Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
DO NOT cheap out on an amp for a W7. They are hugely inefficient, and take tons of power to make good sound - that's how all the "supersubs" are. Lots of people give single W7's 1000w.

Look on CarAudioForums for a used amp that's somewhere around 800w - that way, you won't kill your amp trying to drive your 70lb 10" sub, and will spend less cash.
any "preference " on a brand? acutally found some 800watt amps on ebay for around what im looking to spend. i just dont want anything bunk. or should i look for a 1000 watt amp and run it at 800 so i dont max it out.
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