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Old 12-24-2007, 12:53 AM   #61
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Anyone else lose all tweeter noise with the window open? I'm sure its more the wind noise interfering than anything but is there anyway to compensate for that with a different tweeter placement? The other thing I wanna do is move my rear speakers off the deck and onto the rear side trim for more sound quality
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Old 12-24-2007, 06:21 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbonx240 View Post


i got to many insults before, but now i am tough enought to handle that, feel free,( =R..fosgate power, dawm sweet...at least, this is the speaker set up. forum....
You didn't show your speaker setup AT ALL. And btw your harness setup is unsafe as hell.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 94cc0rd View Post
... I want to upgrade the component set up front to the CDT set and swap out my subs for a single 10 or 12".. I have no trunk space. and I have my subs pointed up because with the little space I have, it was the only way to fit it all... I regret going with 2 12"s...

Any recommedation for a single 10 or 12" in a sealed box and a 4 channel amp that can run a component set and the sub?
Read my post! I have exactly what you're looking to upgrade to.

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Originally Posted by 98koukile View Post
Anyone else lose all tweeter noise with the window open? I'm sure its more the wind noise interfering than anything but is there anyway to compensate for that with a different tweeter placement? The other thing I wanna do is move my rear speakers off the deck and onto the rear side trim for more sound quality
Yeah I run a home-audio/stereophile quality potentiometer up front (under my seat bracket) wired into the tweeter leads, after the crossover. My crossovers have a -0db "main tweeter" output meant for tweeter placed off-axis to the listener, and a -6db "image tweeter" output for tweeters placed on-axis... since mine are +- 5* off axis, I would normally run the tweets on the "image" output, but with the pot on there, I can run them on the "main" output for when the windows are down (and only turn the pot down about 10&#37; for optimal tweeter volume), then when I roll the windows up, I turn it down even more. Works great Another suggestion from Devin Oliver @ Audio Advice in La Crescenta.

Seriously, PM me if anyone's interested in getting a good sound system put together - I love SQ setups!!!
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Old 12-24-2007, 08:31 AM   #63
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Pioneer AVIC D1 navi head unit

Infiniti reference 6.5 speakers

Alpine R12 sub with alpine amp

walmart sub enclosure
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:37 AM   #64
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What is the difference between an open sub box and a sealed one?
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:44 AM   #65
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Kenwood Excelon HU *might change it soon*

CDT ES-650 6.5" Components speakers
Nakamichi PA-2100 for speakers

Alpine Type-S 12" Sub w/ sealed box
JL Audio E1400 for subs

kinda basic but sounds very good.
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:47 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nani View Post
What is the difference between an open sub box and a sealed one?
Open sub box, meaning free-air mount? Or open sub box meaning vented/ported?

Subs work based off air pressure - a magnet energizes a coil, moving the cone, changing the air pressure in front and behind that cone, making sound. The speaker is brought back to rest by the "suspension", meaning the rubber surround. Still with me?

Most speakers have more powerful voice coils than suspension, so they need the surrounding air to help hold the cone in the magnetic gap for optimum performance. Almost there...

Free air (or infinite baffle, as it's sometimes called) is where you mount the speaker with no enclosure, and therefore no suspension help from the air. This is fine for small drivers (tweeters, midrange, small subs) but doesn't work well when you want to play low. Don't free-air mount your sub.

A sealed box uses the air behind the speaker as a spring, making it less efficient, but allowing a smaller amount of air to do more "suspending"... i.e. smaller box size. Also, its kind of foolproof (just about any shape works, as long as the volume of air in the box is somewhere near correct).

A ported (or vented) box works on the principle that the speaker makes sound in front and behind the cone, so why waste the sound energy behind the cone by muffling it in a sealed space? You still need the air to act as suspension, though, so what you do is make a small hole that lets a specific volume of air work as suspension, while still allowing certain frequencies of sound waves behind the speaker to exit the box - the center of the frequency range is the tuning frequency of the box. Naturally, these boxes are more complicated, but are ALWAYS more efficient (more volume with less power) and almost always sound better.

Bandpass boxes are just ported boxes with another tuned/ported enclosure attached to the front of the speaker. More efficient still, but not as acoustically pleasing. dB drag pros use bandpass. SQ pros use vented/ported.

Edit: Here's a pic of my last ported enclosure for my SQ system in the 240. Soundstream Reference 10" (from back when Reference meant Audiophile) and a tiny Class A/AB hybrid (A on the hot side) Soundstream amp... note the sanded smooth ABS pipe, and shape of the box (wide, so the pipe/port has adequate clearance on the inside).


I hope people are bookmarking this, it's good shit.
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:47 AM   #67
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Clarion double din HU with 6.75 Bose rears and 5.25 Bose fronts/tweeters with Bose amplifier taken from a Q45. Wiring the amp was not that hard since I have the fsm for both cars and i'm an EE. The Bose system was free, so why not.
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:01 PM   #68
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:15 PM   #69
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i have pioneer DEH7700 headunit and polk db components in the front powered by a 2 channel audiobahn amp and polk db coaxials in the rear, good bass response and no need for a sub
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Old 12-27-2007, 03:09 AM   #70
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grsxjjornad....nice job
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:33 AM   #71
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eclipse cd4000 head unit and boston s series speakers front/back....i live out of town and would go crazy without music, otherwise i would have thrown it all out a long time ago.
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:31 PM   #72
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i wanted to know how shallow your speakers really have to be for a s13 hatch in the door. I was probably gunna go with alpine spr-17c and some infinity kappa 62.7i. I was just wondering if you guys had anything to warn me about or could tell if these might be too thick, i heard if the speakers in the door are too thick you can't roll down the window all the way. Any advice?

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Old 03-04-2008, 10:47 PM   #73
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nvm i just found a website and if anyone else had this question for maximum depth fo any car look here.
Nissan 240SX Hatchback 89-93 Front Door 4 x 6 1 3/4 deep
Rear Side Shelves 4 x 6 5" Deep
http://cardiscountstereos.com/SpeakerGuide20.asp
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:13 PM   #74
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(2) 12 inch Fusion Powerplant subs
(2) 6.5 inch Fusion Powerplant components





This is my old set up...its all new now.
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:29 PM   #75
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i got a sony head unit with 2 10" explodes in the back, everything else is stock
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:42 PM   #76
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my $10 speakers are being held by zipties... 6.5" up front and 5.5" at the back...

All i hear is treble... i have no bass... the bass is all in my head.... i heard benson said that's drifter style right there...
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:20 PM   #77
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I have a pair of VDO 5,5".. Which i got for free.
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:31 PM   #78
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jvc avx805 double din 7" indash
250gb seagate 3.5" external usb hdd
4x DLS 2 way 6"

will post pics tonite
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:36 PM   #79
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for an S14 rear speaker what is the size? what is a good brand? I heard infinity is good
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:37 PM   #80
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alpine CDA-9831
alpine type r 6.5 component system (front)
alpine type r 6x9 (rear)
i just need to get a 4 channel alpine amp.
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:52 PM   #81
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Clarion Dxz 958rmc
Amps: Signat lab2, Audison SRX2, Eton PA2802
Speaker: Eton A1 and RsAudio T25 Tweeter
Woofer: Peerless XXLS 12cw
complete fullactive

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Old 03-05-2008, 03:54 PM   #82
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6" for s14 rears is perfect

depends if you pose or race... if you have no rear interior no matter what you do its not going to sound absolutely fantastic as it wont be enclosed... mine still sounds good with no interior still
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Old 03-05-2008, 04:04 PM   #83
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I was happy with all stock for years, but when I got $100 gift card my audiophile friend made me upgrade. 6.5 Infintys in the front and dirt cheap 6.5 Dual Audios in the rear. Sounds a lot better then my completely dry rotted ones.
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Old 03-05-2008, 04:10 PM   #84
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i have no stereo in my 240, my DD has 2 alpine type-r 12s, a 1200w jbl amp, kenwoods for mids/highs, and a panasonic head unit. its not too shabby, i bought alot more for the s14 to do a carputer setup but i dont want the extra weight now.
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Old 03-05-2008, 04:16 PM   #85
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blown stock speakers on all 4 corners with some cheap kenwood headunit
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Old 03-05-2008, 05:56 PM   #86
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Stock casette, 4 blown speakers. Woo.
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:01 PM   #87
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Quote:
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blown stock speakers on all 4 corners with some cheap kenwood headunit
same except with a pioneer unit
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:09 PM   #88
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so stock rear S14 speaker size is 6" is it a circular speaker? I thought the stock is more oval?
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:19 PM   #89
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6.5 w/ adapters
4x6 in the rear
Kenwood deck
Sub tube in the back

Nothing to crazy.
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:37 PM   #90
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id love to just have a set of bose speakers. my car came with sony explods and they blow. haha
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