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Old 07-20-2018, 09:37 PM   #1
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S14 DIY OEM Keyless Entry

First; note that this article will be a work-in-progress.
I have just started on this procedure and I will be updating this top post with additional information as it comes.
Second, a warning: this will be a lot of reading.

[INTRODUCTION]
Recently I have been trying to bring most of the OEM features that was missing (or optional) back to my S14, which is a 1996 SE.
Not really original to my car; but within the last few years I added/wired up the JDM digital climate control (I'm just missing the in-cabin sensor to use the auto function.) so I also decided on doing the keyless entry next.
And plus, we only have a few articles on here with people asking how to do this, but no final results.

[PICTURES]
I will be describing both the non-keyless entry and keyless entry units.
First up is pictures.
Pictures will be hosted on my imgur, if they are missing or not working then feel free to PM me, or if you have a better permanent location they can be stored.

(Keyless entry unit is on the left, non-keyless is on the right)


(it's hard to see the pins in the picture, but looking at the unit; top/left is pin #24 (B/P), top/right is pin #11 (G), bottom left is pin #10 [B].)

Non-Keyless entry unit circuit board:


Keyless entry unit circuit board:


PARTS
  • Non-Keyless Entry Unit: 28596-C9917 (what you should have)
  • Keyless Entry Unit: 28595-70F10 (I paid $40 for mine on ebay.)
  • Wire, lots of wire. You need a bigger sized wire for anything power, and smaller sized wire for anything else. I'm not wiring technical person, but I'll say for power a 14-16gauge should be fine. While for everything else 18-22gauge should be fine.
  • Either a soldering iron for a clean job, or
  • Wire crimpers, and quick-disconnect shielded terminals for a fast and messy job.
  • Correct sized connectors for the control unit's connector.
  • Driver Door Actuator: 80553-79907 (discontinued by Nissan), only difference is the non-keyless doesn't include the lock/unlocked sensor.
    Autozone sells this for $138.99. CourtesyNissan shows it compatible with 95 to 98 SE models.
  • Passenger Door Actuator: 80552-79907 (discontinued by Nissan)

[WIRING]
I'm not sure how the different S14 years vary (according to the FSM, only the SE models was suppose to have keyless entry.) but my '96 SE has a few things, but missing the rest. I have the third rear window antenna, but I don't see the wiring going anywhere (I will be taking apart the interior panel to see what's going on.) I also have the trunk latch wiring for the security system. Also I have pin #11 which is used for the ignition power for the security system exists on the harness connector.

* The FSM's smart entrance control unit wiring is spread out everywhere all the way from interior lighting, exterior lighting to power doors and etc. While the "Multi-Remote Control System" just shows what is needed for the keyless function.

If you have the non-keyless entry unit, you are missing the following pins/wires:

Pin #: [Wire Color] Description
  • Pin 7: [OR] Flasher Output
  • Pin 9: [R/W] Room Lamp Output
  • Pin 13: [Y/L] Unlock Sensor RH
  • Pin 16: [L] Door SW RH
  • Pin 17: [L] ACC
  • Pin 37: ANT (separate 1-pin connector on unit)

So it's not a big list at all, but if your going to do the security system as well it might be a bit of a pain. For reference, here are the security system part pinouts:
  • Pin 8: [Y/G] Panic Output
  • Pin 26: [R] Trunk SW
  • Pin 27: [G/B] Trunk Key Cyl. SW
  • Pin 28: [Y] Tamper SW
  • Pin 29: [Y/B] Hood Open
  • Pin 30: [LG/R] Key Cyl. SW (LOCK)
  • Pin 31: [G/Y] Key Cyl. SW (UNLOCK)
  • Pin 32: [LG] Starter Cut Output
  • Pin 33: [OR/G] Indicator Output

In order to wire up the keyless entry, this is what will have to happen:
  • Pin 7: (Flasher Output) [OR] this will ground two relays that will be going to the turn signals. Multi-Remote Control Relay-1 is a two relay in one unit, in it each of the two relay switch paths will splice into the rear turn signals (one for left, the other for right.) Multi-Remote Control Relay-2 changes the function of the the [LG/B] wire coming from the "Turn Signal Switch" instead of this wire going directly to it, it will be cut off and routed from one side the relay's switch then to the other side to complete the circuit. It's only purpose is to "disable" the turn signal stalk during keyless operation. * Even through relay-1 is a two-in-one relay, you can wire up two separate relays here instead.
  • Pin 9: (Room Lamp Output) [R/W] needs wired to [red/white] of the interior lamp, this is the same wire which turn on the "auto" part of the interior lights when your doors are open. it needs spliced in before anything else on that wire (before the diode.)
  • Pin 13: (Unlock Sensor RH) [Y/L] this is wired to the RH (passenger) door lock actuator, it looks to see if the door is locked or unlocked. According to the FSM this is only used for the keyless entry and security system, and nothing else. This actuator will need replaced with a different unit. The pre-existing one only has two pins coming out the connector (and two wires running to it.) compared to the LH side which has all four wires. I'm not sure if this can modified to take the sensor just yet. It's attached to the part that latches the door when you close it.

    The unit itself appears to be glued together, I opened one of the actuators to see if anything can be modded. According to the FSM, the pins is shorted when the switch is "OPEN" so it might be possible to glue a few metal pieces to the internal gears to touch when opened.
  • Pin 16: (Door SW RH) [B->B/R] This switch already exists, but is currently only used for the auto interior lighting. That wire will get spliced into this pin. *This is the sensor which detects if the door is open or closed.
    The driver side sensor has three wires coming out of the sensor, the one being for the module. The passenger side has the single one wire that we will need to splice into.
  • Pin 17: (ACC) [L] will be wired to a [10A fuse] then the [Ignition Switch ACC].
  • Pin 37 (ANT) will be wired directly to the rear window top portion grid. (Technically you could run a bare wire across at the top of the window.)

    In the picture, it runs aside the radio antenna wire. I believe this ends at the same spot as the radio antenna at the radio and might require an adapter, my car didn't had an adapter so I'll update this with more information later.


As a few notes;
  • Without the Smart Entrance Control Unit your power locks and rear window defogger will not work.
  • If installing just the keyless entry unit without doing the wiring, your power locks will still work (and rear window defogger should as well.) so everything should function as it would with the non-keyless unit.
  • User teddyjr mentions in post http://zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=5754316&postcount=7 that the door key lock cylinder and door lock actuators needs replacing.
  • Both door lock actuators need to be repaced as teddyjr mentioned in prior mentioned post. The driver side is wired up, but not the correct actuator. I'm not sure how the unit makes use of this. According to the FSM it's an output. I know that according to the programming of the remote, you are suppose to lock all your doors, to it might be possible to just short these two pinouts with ground to trick the computer... IF that's all it is used for.

This is all for now, I've yet to do the wiring and to check for any existing (not connected) wires. I will update with pictures on each step when I do them.

If anyone wants to add on anything or ask anything, then feel free to mention or ask. I'll answer to the best of my knowledge, and make the needed changes. After this is done, I will try to clean it up and make it into a PDF.

Last edited by firejackal; 07-21-2018 at 01:01 PM..
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Old 07-22-2018, 02:03 PM   #2
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Good to see some technical articles again, good job!
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Old 07-22-2018, 09:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluejayde View Post
Good to see some technical articles again, good job!
Thanks. I have a few more that I need to write up.

I've got a few updates today to change in the main post.
  • The third antenna channel on the rear window that I thought is for the Smart Entrance Control Unit, might not be for the Smart Entrance Control Unit antenna. According to the FSM, this is the "rear window antenna" and goes straight to the factory radio unit. There isn't a reason to not be able to use this for the keyless unit if you had a way to wire it up. I'm in the process of buying some antenna connectors. Another solution would to buy an antenna unit from a newer nissan, it uses a similar connector.
  • I've came across a little snag, that is the wiring to the actual Smart Entrance Control Unit; I am unable to find a suitable wire terminal for the big and small terminal that go into the connector, or another convenient solution. I'm contacting a few suppliers at the moment.
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Old 08-16-2018, 06:48 PM   #4
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I'm back again, still working on this project on my spare time.

So some things I've done:
  1. Got the needed connector terminals.
  2. Wired up the "room lamp output" while I had the dash out (finally decided to wire up the AC door mode motor correctly for my digital climate control.)
  3. Wired up part of the relay system.
  4. Attempted to wire up the antenna input.

First, the connector terminals.
From researching there is one other connector on our dash harness that uses the same two types of terminals. F3. This connector is on the passenger side kick panel behind the ECU.
Fortunately, Wiring Specialties sells this connector and it's terminals. Unfortunately they don't sell the terminals separate. When I ordered the part it was $55. So that was a hefty price. The connector itself is bigger then the M20 connector. So it will include plenty enough terminals in case of mistakes.

Room Lamp Output
There is a four-pin harness connector under the dash directly south of the passenger tweeter/A-Pillar, this includes the wire going to the top interior lamp.
I'm sure it meets somewhere next to the fusebox. But I'm not sure where. so this connector was the easiest solution for me to splice into.

Relays
From the factory the keyless entry system uses two relays, one is a two-relays-in-one, the other is a "normally closed" relay.
The wiring diagram shows the first relay is used to apply voltage to the turn signals. This can spliced anywhere in the turn signal wiring, the front turn signals, the rear turn signals, and the hazard switch.
The second relay breaks the circuit for the turn signal stalk, I'm not sure why. Maybe for the voltage don't go back up the system.
For now I decided to install the turn signal relay part in the trunk on the driver-side. I used two relays for this, ran one wire to the back from the keyless entry module "flasher output" (this is the coil ground), the (coil power) to my battery for power with a fuse. The other two wires to LH, and RH turn signal wires.

Antenna
I bought a radio antenna splicer adapter for I could isolate the second antenna path. I also verified my rear window circuit wasn't broken by redoing parts of it. I ran this wire to the antenna.
Unfortunately I can't seem to get this to work and I don't know how to test it.
According to the Japanese FSM, the keyless antenna is at the bottom of the rear windshield. So you would have 3 different terminals on the rear windshield. Top (1) is for the factory radio (don't know why it needs two radio antennas), (2) is the defroster, and (3) is for keyless.

Other notes
  • By default, without the passenger door "closed" signal wired up, the module will always think the door is closed.
  • Also, without wiring up the driver and passenger doors lock signal, the module will think the doors is always locked.
  • I can get the keyless module into programming mode by closing all the doors, inserting/removing the key 6 times to get the "flasher output" to flash a few times. But the remote I bought does nothing. At this point (with the system thinking the doors is locked) the remote should program (by flashing the turn signals again) but it's not. So I'm thinking it doesn't like my antenna wiring, or I bought the wrong remote.

The remote I bought was the KOBUTA3T which said it was for the Nissan 95-98 200SX 240SX, and 97-99 Altima.

So my current plans is this now:
  • Redo the antenna wiring, I ordered a newer nissan/infinity keyless antenna that I'm going to try to see if I can get it work.
  • Still look into an alternative method for the door lock/unlock signal. I'm thinking about either implement a manual switch (metal spring), or bolting on a tiny endstop switch to either inside the door module, or at the end of the metal rod for the lock.

Once I get more going on this project, I'll upload the pictures I took of today's update.
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Old 08-19-2018, 08:13 PM   #5
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Well I think I have a rough setup for the locked/unlocked sensor. Used an endstop switch from when I built my 3D printers. Luckily the switch (which was bought on Amazon) has a circuit for opened. Now I need a way to test it with the keyless system.

I made a bracket out of sheet metal. If it works (and clears the door card) then I'll try to design up a cad file to have it publicaly available.

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Old 08-25-2018, 06:41 PM   #6
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Update: Finally got the keyless function to work.
How: I had to buy a remote from Nissan. The ones sold on ebay/amazon was the incorrect fcc number. Found this out by looking at some other thread posts.

I was a little afraid using the radio antenna part on the rear windshield wouldn't work.
Because of that I bought a newer nissan (renault) antenna, that I might still see if I can get it to work.

Only issue with that newer antenna is it's two wire, and I'm unsure if it needs a booster. But from what I can tell both pins are connected together inside the unit with hardly any resistance, so maybe from one side of the antenna to the other side. And it's meant to have several of them spread out through the car (three.)

Other part I need to work on is my relays (I still need to add that third relay for the turn signal cut off) I need to look into using solid state relays. Because when I lock/unlock the car using the remote you can audibly hear the loud relays outside the car.
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Old 09-04-2018, 10:28 PM   #7
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I love what you’re doing and detailing here.
How far are you from being complete?

I have an S14 base and would love to have factory keyless. I know an aftermarket setup could be had for potentially a lot less time, effort, and likely money too, but there’s something about factory stuff.
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majgoldfish View Post
I love what you’re doing and detailing here.
How far are you from being complete?

I have an S14 base and would love to have factory keyless. I know an aftermarket setup could be had for potentially a lot less time, effort, and likely money too, but there’s something about factory stuff.
Sorry for the late reply majgoldfish.
It's pretty much down except for a few minor issues. I've been using it about every day.

The base doesn't have the sunroof right? I'm unsure what's different with your base compared to my SE. I thought it was the wheel pattern and sunroof. I'd like to have a non sunroof model.

A few issues I have with the system right now.
* Distance: distance to use the unlock/lock feature varies with me using the radio section of the rear window as the antenna. Sometimes I can be 10 feet from the car, other times 5 feet.
* Interior lamp doesn't seem to fuction correctly. It will flicker twice when unlocked. I assume the interior lights is suppose to stay on for a fixed amount of time.

I'll have to calculate costs. But the amount of work between the OEM system and an aftermarket system is probably going to the same.

I haven't touched the alarm section yet, but I'd like to get an alarm speaker to chirp with locking.

I've been really busy with work I haven't had time to update my first post.

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Old 09-06-2018, 12:15 PM   #9
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:46 PM   #10
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No worries at all. I do not have a sunroof, and my car is not an SE. I have a 1995 OBD1 car, not sure what the overall differences are either.

Once I get the car running, the OEM keyless is something I definitely want to get setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by firejackal View Post
Sorry for the late reply majgoldfish.
It's pretty much down except for a few minor issues. I've been using it about every day.

The base doesn't have the sunroof right? I'm unsure what's different with your base compared to my SE. I thought it was the wheel pattern and sunroof. I'd like to have a non sunroof model.

A few issues I have with the system right now.
* Distance: distance to use the unlock/lock feature varies with me using the radio section of the rear window as the antenna. Sometimes I can be 10 feet from the car, other times 5 feet.
* Interior lamp doesn't seem to fuction correctly. It will flicker twice when unlocked. I assume the interior lights is suppose to stay on for a fixed amount of time.

I'll have to calculate costs. But the amount of work between the OEM system and an aftermarket system is probably going to the same.

I haven't touched the alarm section yet, but I'd like to get an alarm speaker to chirp with locking.

I've been really busy with work I haven't had time to update my first post.

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Old 09-12-2018, 08:45 PM   #11
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It’s great to see people still doing new things with these cars.
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Old 09-12-2018, 08:46 PM   #12
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:19 PM   #13
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This is pretty awesome. Following for a completed write up to retrofit. I guess as you're going through this, there was no "pre-wiring" to be found for the relays? I just remember a while back when adding heated mirrors to my G20, there was a connector for the relay taped up under the dash.

The only gee-whiz info I can add is related to the antenna wires in the rear window: the window wire is for AM, the quarter-panel antenna is for FM, and I think they got rid of it in 97 (mine doesn't have the radio wire).
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:25 PM   #14
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According to the FSM both antenna wires should exist in koukis.
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