Discounted OEM bolts or companies selling better replacements?

[mx4evr]

Hey fellas,

Wondering if anybody knows where I can get OEM bolts for cheap. Used google a bit and saw that everyone pushes courtesy parts but I'm looking to see if anyone has the scoop on discounts for ordering a bunch.

I have to replace nearly every suspension-related nut and bolt and then some. Goddamn Canadian 240s are covered in rust!

Tried messaging the guys at baller bolts to see if I could get it all done at once but no reply.

Any insight? Anything would be appreciated,

Thanks,

Nick

[godrifttoday]

pmmmmmmmmmmmmm

[MidwestMyriad]

Does Canada have Fastenal?

[hockeyplaye8511]

i wouldnt recommend baller bolts, ordered the full suspension kit in august, dont have it and wont respond to any communication

[mx4evr]

lol yea I asked baller if they would hook me a discount for a number of things and got no reply so I lucked out on that one

[mx4evr]

Looks like we have fastenal, are they good?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

[hockeyplaye8511]

godrifttoday's bolts are legit, currently using them on my rear suspension

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by hockeyplaye8511

godrifttoday's bolts are legit, currently using them on my rear suspension

Thank you sir

[Matej]

Fastenal and McMaster-Carr have the best selection as far as general hardware goes, unless you need something really unique.
I have been slowly replacing all the bolts on my car with ARP.

[mx4evr]

That's great, thanks for the heads up!

I just grabbed the majority of the bigger sized bolts through "godrifttoday", but glad to know Fastenal is in town because I snapped so many other bolts in the tear down process that I'll surely have to drop by there a few times.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

[dawagarage]

if you can, try to find a local industrial hardware store near you.

not the regular home improvement hardware stores, but a store
that stocks just about every single bolt that there is, sells em singularly, or in a pack (of 50-100 depending) for a discount.

my store stocked grade 8.8 fasteners and they were only a few cents a piece.

those places a great to have in your arsenal in case you dont have time to wait for a package in the mail

(edit: kinda like fastenal previously mentioned, except my local bolt store was even more affordable than them)

[mx4evr]

Thanks! That's great, really glad I asked now. I usually avoid starting threads because I feel like the answer is out there already but I'm glad I started one on this occasion


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by Matej

Fastenal and McMaster-Carr have the best selection as far as general hardware goes, unless you need something really unique.
I have been slowly replacing all the bolts on my car with ARP.

Fastenal can get or make any bolt for you even the unique bolts.
they even have CAD files for all metric or SAE bolts.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by dawagarage

if you can, try to find a local industrial hardware store near you.

not the regular home improvement hardware stores, but a store
that stocks just about every single bolt that there is, sells em singularly, or in a pack (of 50-100 depending) for a discount.

my store stocked grade 8.8 fasteners and they were only a few cents a piece.

those places a great to have in your arsenal in case you dont have time to wait for a package in the mail

(edit: kinda like fastenal previously mentioned, except my local bolt store was even more affordable than them)

I could be wrong, but I think grade 8 is the best (or one of the strongest) us grades, but for metric the equivalent is 10.9 or 12.something, and 8.8 is sort of shitty.

[Matej]

Most hex bolts are also available in 10.9. Get the yellow zinc-plated ones if possible. Socket bolts can be commonly found in 12.9, though usually only in plain or black oxide finish.

I would not trust 8.8 bolts for anything other than exhaust or body parts and such.
Definitely do not use 8.8 for any suspension or engine parts.

Also refrain from using stainless bolts, even if mated to aluminum. A lot people just assume stainless hardware will prevent rusting without being aware of metal nobility and galvanic corrosion.

[2muchboost]

^^^well put sir. Many believe Stainless Steel is the end all be all when in some cases its not adequate.

[AreOhWhy]

I live in Toronto, Ontario and I needed some caliper/suspension bolts and went to Fastenal. Unfortunately they declined my request because they only do orders of 100 or so, not just a single or few bolts. I am not sure if it was the location I went to but the person who helped me was the manager and said they only sell in bulk.

He did help me out though and sent me to another industrial supplier called "Acklands-Grainger." I was able to get my bolts from them individually and for a good price. They were friendly and took the time to ensure I got the exact pieces I came for.

So just a heads up if you still need a local fastener supplier!

[dawagarage]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

I could be wrong, but I think grade 8 is the best (or one of the strongest) us grades, but for metric the equivalent is 10.9 or 12.something, and 8.8 is sort of shitty.

you are right, and wrong. 8.8 isnt shitty just because there are stronger bolts available

Originally Posted by Matej

Most hex bolts are also available in 10.9. Get the yellow zinc-plated ones if possible. Socket bolts can be commonly found in 12.9, though usually only in plain or black oxide finish.

I would not trust 8.8 bolts for anything other than exhaust or body parts and such.
Definitely do not use 8.8 for any suspension or engine parts.

Also refrain from using stainless bolts, even if mated to aluminum. A lot people just assume stainless hardware will prevent rusting without being aware of metal nobility and galvanic corrosion.

lol, 8.8 bolts are oem equivalent.
i can agree that if youre going to put undo/added stress on your car (track, etc) then sure, UPgrade your bolts if you can afford to, especially in regards to suspension/engine/brake parts.

Originally Posted by 2muchboost

^^^well put sir. Many believe Stainless Steel is the end all be all when in some cases its not adequate.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-chart.aspx

smaller than 16mm grade 8.8 bolts:
(measurements in mpa. 1 mpa = 145psi)

-proof load: (An axial tensile load which the product must withstand without evidence of any permanent set) 580mpa (7250psi)
-min Yield Strength: (The load at which a material exhibits a specific permanent deformation.) 640mpa (92800psi)
-min Tensile Strength: (The maximum load in tension (pulling apart) which a material can withstand before breaking or fracturing.) 800mpa (116000psi)



another good read:
http://www.qldcorvetteclub.com.au/te...talk/bolts.htm
There are three grades of bolt in common use in Australia. Most bolts which you will come across will only deviate slightly from these three grades. The lowest grade is 4.6, commonly known as commercial grade. Next comes grade 8.8, known as structural grade, and finally, the highest grade is 12.9, known as high tensile bolts. The first number represents the ultimate tensile strength of the bolt, 400 MPa, 800 MPa or 1200 MPa respectively. The second number represents the point at which the bolt will permanently stretch. (Officially, the 0.2% proof load stress). A 4.6 bolt permanently stretches at 60% of its ultimate, an 8.8 at 80% and a 12.9 at 90 %.


Grade 12.9 bolts
Grade 12.9 bolts are most often supplied as socket head bolts or socket head cap screws with hexagon socket (Allen Key) drives. Corvettes use a lot of Torx drives, and there are other types of patented and tamper proof drives such as Safe-T drive. Grade 12.9 bolts can also be obtained with hexagon heads. Popular brands of grade 12.9 bolts are Unbrako and Holo-chrome. It is possible to obtain zinc or chrome plated versions, but not galvanised. Galvanising destroys the heat treatment of the steel. Beware! it is not possible to source 12.9 grade stainless steel bolts. 316 and 304 stainless steel will only be equivalent to grade 4.6. They may look cute in an engine bay, but they do not meet the grade. Grade 12.9 nuts are not made.
Grade 8.8 bolts are usually supplied as hexagon head bolts, often galvanised, sometimes zinc plated, but usually black. They are distinguished by the three radial lines on the head, or these day, by the numerals 8.8 stamped on the head. Grade 8.8 nuts are taller than grade 4.6, but do not have any distinguishing marks
Grade 4.6 bolts come in a vast array of configurations. Hexagon head, countersunk slot drive, galvanised, zinc plated, oxy-sealed (ie gold zinc plating), chrome plated. On a motor vehicle, grade 4.6 bolts are used to hold on trim parts and light objects. Grade If you need to replace a bolt, and the grade is doubtful, use grade 8.8 and be safe. The head of a grade 4.6 bolts is easily scratched with a file, not so a 8.8 bolt.

Correct design of a bolted joint is quite involved. Serious joints are designed on the basis of maximum stretch in the bolt, with minimum cyclical fluctuation of stresses in the bolt under working conditions. In order to achieve this aim, high tensile bolts are pre-tensioned, bolts are made as long as possible, and the minimum size bolt is used. Often the shank of a bolt (ie a cylinder head stud) is reduced in area to assist. Bolted joint design too complex to delve into here. The average Corvette enthusiast will be replacing bolts in an existing designed joint and need not worry to much about the design of joints.


How do you tighten a bolt?
Grade 12.9 bolts are tightened with a torque wrench, right up to their 90% proof load. There is no other effective way to tighten a grade 12.9 bolt. Automotive manuals will give the tightening torque required. Grade 12.9 bolts do not work effectively with spring washers or shakeproof washers. These don't bite into the hardened surface of the bolt. There are only two ways of adding extra security to grade 12.9 bolts. Use Loctite on the threads or drill the heads and wire the bolts. It is possible to buy pre-drilled cap screws. Mating surfaces of a 12.9 bolted joint are not painted. For serious work, never re-use a fully tensioned 12.9 bolt.

Grade 8.8 bolts are tightened by the part turn method, torque wrench, or by using load indicating washers. In the part turn method, the bolt is done up to snug tight, and then advanced one, two or three flats of the hexagon, depending on the size, length etc. The torque wrench method is used commonly, often in the form of an air operated rattle gun. Special load indicating washers, such as Coronet washers can be used. These have dimples which indent the mating surface. A feeler gauge is used to determine the pre-load. Grade 8.8 Bolts are used in High Strength Friction Grip applications. If this is the case, the mating surfaces must not be painted or galvanised. For added security of the joint , use any one of the plethora of systems such as spring washers, shakeproof washers, Loctite, wired heads, split pins and castle nuts, locking tabs, lock nut or patented nut systems (Nyloc is common). For serious work, use castle nuts, either with split pins or wired together in groups. Also for serious work, do not re-use fully tensioned grade 8.8 bolts, Nylocs, split pins etc.

Grade 4.6 bolts are not pre-tensioned in the joint. They are tightened to snug tight only. For all intents, this means a reasonable hand effort on a spanner. Use good springy chrome-moly spanners, and never put an extension bar on the spanner. All of the security systems available for 8.8 bolts are available on 4.6 bolts. If you need much more than a spring washer, question whether the joint really requires an 8.8 bolt. Mating surfaces of a grade 4.6 bolted joint are usually painted prior to assembly.

[blueshark123]

Dont forget about mc-master I use them often.

[souljaseth33]

Originally Posted by AreOhWhy

I live in Toronto, Ontario and I needed some caliper/suspension bolts and went to Fastenal. Unfortunately they declined my request because they only do orders of 100 or so, not just a single or few bolts. I am not sure if it was the location I went to but the person who helped me was the manager and said they only sell in bulk.

He did help me out though and sent me to another industrial supplier called "Acklands-Grainger." I was able to get my bolts from them individually and for a good price. They were friendly and took the time to ensure I got the exact pieces I came for.

So just a heads up if you still need a local fastener supplier!

I deal with FASTENAL here in NY through my job. I have gone in there and picked up individual nuts and bolts. Not sure why the store near you doesnt sell them like that. Our FASTENAL rep has been able to get me all the random fastners I've needed so far for my s13.

[AreOhWhy]

Originally Posted by souljaseth33

I deal with FASTENAL here in NY through my job. I have gone in there and picked up individual nuts and bolts. Not sure why the store near you doesnt sell them like that. Our FASTENAL rep has been able to get me all the random fastners I've needed so far for my s13.

Hmm... maybe since you have a hook up he did it for you. I was just a random customer walking in. The reason why I tried Fastenal was because of suggestions from forums. Maybe it's that location or it's a Canada thing... I mean if he wanted my business he could have had it, but instead he sent me to another supplier... Oh well, Acklands-Grainger still helped me out for cheap!