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Old 12-21-2014, 12:52 PM   #1
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SR Sr white smoke from exhaust......help

Fresh rebuilt sr
Spark plugs are covered in oil and so is the pistons
What can cause this?
could it be from rings not being set yet?

The hose to the pvc did have a crack, I'm looking for a replace for it

I haven't driven the car since I kept having leaks from hoses under the intake and oil from the pan
I have a 4 day weekend coming up so I'll have more time to mess with this thing


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Old 12-21-2014, 01:09 PM   #2
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I just rebuilt my sr20 and after starting it a couple times while making sure it was ok and not leaking I checked the plugs I didn't see any oil...so I wouldn't think its the rings not seating yet..try a compression test and are all 4 soaked with oil?
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Old 12-21-2014, 01:19 PM   #3
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Yea looks like all 4 of them are
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Old 12-21-2014, 02:05 PM   #4
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Leakdown test, you may have installed the wrong valve seals. I have seen that happen before more than once, something about the part number is wrong if you order them from a certain place.

There are a few places oil can come from but check that, and the valve cover gasket (around the plugs) first.
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Old 12-21-2014, 05:49 PM   #5
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I bought the super tech valve seals
I'll do a leak down and compression test this week
Also I can smell gas through the oil filler cap

Could this be from oil rings not set right
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Old 12-21-2014, 06:13 PM   #6
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Yeah fuel is getting passed the rings
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:54 PM   #7
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I did a leak down test
Put each cylinder a TDC
Set it at zero.....all 4 went straight to 100
I turned up the pressure to 45 so I can hear where is leaking from
All come out the of the valve cover which indicates rings

Brand new cp rings on my cp pistons
Shop set rings wrong or honed to much off the cylinder walls?
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:32 AM   #8
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I talked to my builder
He is thinking that my old gas could have turned to like varnish and make the walls smooth

So I'm going to try to pull out the old gas, put fresh in along with injector cleaner
Go for a drive if possible (will be my first time to drive it since rebuild) and put it in 5th at 30 mph and drive up to 50 mph then let off to 30 mph
Do that 8-10 times to help get the rings to seat
Then do leak down again
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:38 AM   #9
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I would use break in oil also and your car is tuned for your new setup right?
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Old 12-22-2014, 01:47 PM   #10
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I'm using part store brand 30w
Factory setup besides forged pistons and rods, and bc valve spring and retainer
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucas240sx View Post
I did a leak down test
Put each cylinder a TDC
Set it at zero.....all 4 went straight to 100
I turned up the pressure to 45 so I can hear where is leaking from
All come out the of the valve cover which indicates rings

Brand new cp rings on my cp pistons
Shop set rings wrong or honed to much off the cylinder walls?
you realize there is a compression stroke, and an exhaust stroke, ... right
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Old 12-23-2014, 05:19 AM   #12
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No I was not aware of that
I will try it again with the connector in and rotate the crank till I hear compression and try again
Thanks
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Old 12-23-2014, 03:43 PM   #13
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First, your videos were set for private so we can't see anything...atleast I wasn't able to. Also as already noted make sure you are on the correct stroke cuz when I did a leak down test on my car I too made this mistake. If your spark plugs are swimming in oil, lemme ask did you change the valve cover gaskets? I also had similar issues with the valve cover leaking in spark plugs 3 and 4 so my plugs would always have a lot of oil. For the leak down compression test, general rule of thumb is air escaping from the throttle body means leaky intake valve, air escaping from the exhaust tail pipe means leaky exhaust valve, air escaping from the radiator cap means blown head gasket and air escaping out of the oil cap means maybe rings not sealing.
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Old 12-23-2014, 04:44 PM   #14
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All gaskets are new except one spark plug ring
But those gasket leaks it would be in the spark well not into the pistons right?
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:51 PM   #15
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How old was this gas you had in there anyway?

Either way take a good look at the oil when you take the pan off to see what kind of damage there may or may not be.

Plus pull the plugs to see how they are doing.
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Old 12-24-2014, 06:26 AM   #16
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The plugs covered with burnt oil
Pistons covered in oil
I have changed the oil twice bcuz of the gas smell
Never had any metal shavings
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Old 12-26-2014, 04:23 PM   #17
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I double checked the leak down
Made sure each piston was on compression stroke and at TDC
Still coming up 100 leak on each
This is nuts
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucas240sx View Post
I double checked the leak down
Made sure each piston was on compression stroke and at TDC
Still coming up 100 leak on each
This is nuts
so with the test, you need to determine where the air is coming from. A leak of 100% means either that tool you have is not working properly or you have a huge leak....if it is a huge leak then you should hear/feel air coming out of somewhere. You should be able to feel air or at least hear the air. Go feel your exhaust tip and plug it with your hand. Does the sound tone change? Do you feel air coming from the exhaust? If so then you have possible exhaust valve leaks. Open up your throttle body and do you hear/feel air there? if you do then that is an intake valve leak. Feel the radiator spout, does the sound change if you put your hand over it or can you feel air coming out from the radiator spout? If so, this means the head is not sealing correctly and a possible BHG. Lastly, take the oil cap off and do you hear air? If you plug the oil spout, does the tone of air change or can you feel air? this would mean your rings are not sealing correctly and air is escaping through one or all rings.
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Old 12-27-2014, 08:12 PM   #19
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It's the rings
I coming from the oil cap and dipstick
Complete rebuild and all the rings are leaking
I'm hoping to get it ready tmrw to drive it for the first time, seem if that will help the rings expand and seat
Also I can go a leak down again with the engine hot
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Old 12-27-2014, 08:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucas240sx View Post
It's the rings
I coming from the oil cap and dipstick
Complete rebuild and all the rings are leaking
I'm hoping to get it ready tmrw to drive it for the first time, seem if that will help the rings expand and seat
Also I can go a leak down again with the engine hot
If you need to get by for a while, I know guys have ran slightly thicker oil and checking it religiously. This may or may not be a good choice for you depending on your weather and how cold it gets.
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Old 12-27-2014, 10:17 PM   #21
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It snowed today, it's suppose to warm up tmrw
The car is my toy
I have 2 other dd ' s
I need to drive it and see if anything changes before I pull it so I can tear it down and look it over
I'm so mad that I don't care anymore
It's been a long 2 year project
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:47 AM   #22
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Does anybody have experience with this?
Fresh rebuild the has in been idled and 100% leak

Has anyone down a leak test on their fresh rebuild before driving it?
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Old 12-31-2014, 02:59 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucas240sx View Post
Does anybody have experience with this?
Fresh rebuild the has in been idled and 100% leak

Has anyone down a leak test on their fresh rebuild before driving it?
So you are certain it's rings? Any chance the leak down tester is faulty? Have you tried another tester?
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:05 PM   #24
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Turning up the psi I can hear air blowing through the oil filler cap and dipstick....mean it's blowing by the rings
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucas240sx View Post
Turning up the psi I can hear air blowing through the oil filler cap and dipstick....mean it's blowing by the rings
I understand that, just thinking of other possibilities to avoid having to tear down your motor again. New CP rings and pistons, it doesn't make sense to me.
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:10 PM   #26
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Doesn't make sense to my builder either
It's cold now, but when I get a chance I'm going to try to drive it and see if I can get the rings to seat
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:23 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Doesn't make sense to my builder either
It's cold now, but when I get a chance I'm going to try to drive it and see if I can get the rings to seat
What if any break process is required for CP rings/pistons? What weight oil are you on? How many miles have been logged since the rebuild? It's crazy that ALL rings are leaking.
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:25 PM   #28
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The motor has.never been DRIVEN only idled
I have straight 30 weight oil
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:56 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucas240sx View Post
The hose to the pvc did have a crack, I'm looking for a replace for it
Did you replace the PCV valve and hose? this can cause issues with blowby and other things.

Checkout this link http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197 and read the section specifically on 'how a PCV Valve works' it talks about the difference between only idling a car and driving it. Maybe this has something to do with your issue?? The hose could be clogged and with how inexpensive the PCV is, although you can hear it when you shake it I would replace it.
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:57 PM   #30
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No
I did clean the valve with break cleaner. If you shaken it, you can hear it moving inside
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