Engine Build costs?

[Oo_Skyline_oO]

Originally Posted by WISH ONE

HEY COCK! i REPPED YOU!!!!! SO WHAT!!

i know otis and josh also... you can name drop all you want... doesnt make you anymore legit!

explain to me how you go from 287 to 320-330... i didnt know motorsets gained hp on while hibernating in the container on the way over from japan. if im wrong clue me in please id love to know.

Im no rb master nor do i care to be, but to my knowledge(correct me if i am misinformed) but Most Full track RB26 s13's done Correctly, Have the engine recessed into the firewall as far back as possible to help with balance, and WHO cares when your making 600whp and you are a great driver. once again i believe he asked for help with a build not a rb20 swap!


sorry for turning your thread into an argument!
best of luck with your build.

K, lets educate the moron(you of course) who said engines "gained" any hp?? take a closer look ret*rd I said that the true hp and the "rated" hp were different. early 90's Japanese auto makers had a "gentlemen's agreement" not to go over a certain hp number so Mitsu, Toyota, and Nissan all rated their motors under 280hp I beleive was the magic numbers, but in reality, the RB26DETT, the 2JZ-GTE, and the 6G72 all made above 300hp. and yes, full track rb swaps are moved in past the firewall. Did I say I was building a full track car?? did I say I was in D1??? did I say I was a world record seting driver??? no...so STFU. those pple have 100's of thousands of dollars to spend for a true track car. I built an economic daily.......who gives two sh*ts if I have a hundred pounds more up front, I use it to run errands, take my daughter on joy rides, and have a blast. my "weight distribution" is completely irrelevant for my application. I named Otis n Josh because I knew some id*ot like you would come along and say " prove it, show some dyno sheets" and I know they have some so if you're really achin' to be proved wrong go ask them and the'y'lle give you all the information you need, that was the purpose of naming them, not to make myself more legit. and ONCE AGAIN. I ONLY attempted to help him with a less costly solution to his poblem. so don't speak for him. he'll say if my information is usefull or not.

[Rocko]

Wow.... The last thing I thought I was going to do with this thread was start some crazy RB20 vs All war.... I personaly like the RB20 but Id prefer to keep my SR, Iv already got the BOV and FMIC you speak of as well as a ton of other bolton parts and Id just prefer to have a 2L 4cylinder for this build for whatever reason

Im really just looking for anyone elses experience on Machine Shop and Assembly prices so that I can compare them with what Im seeing when talking to different shops around my area. Iv been quoted everything from 2000 for a complete eagle/cp build (about 700 going to machine shop/assembly out of that) and as much as 2050 for the machine shop/assembly....

anyway, thanks for the info guys and keep it coming.

[Jodan]

my build was like 4.5k, dont remember.

[nani]

If you do a performance rebuild and dont balance the the components it wont last long. forged pistons and rods are heavier than OEM ones. you must add weight to the counterweights of the crank to compensate, which takes time and time = Money.

[KOUKI KAN KAN]

Hey Doosh I Have A Sr20det ,and Guess What I Got Bigger Pistons Than Your Faggot Ass.lol And What Now You Going To Neg-rep Me With Your Massive E-kok Just So You Can Look Like A Bad Ass Why Doesnt Everyone Just Fukking Read The Real Reason That This Guy Posted This And Help Him Out

[sldbyuramg]

8k and no head work? you can buy a fully built longblock for 8k...

Originally Posted by whereda40at

i have spent over 8 thousand in my motor build. it realy all depends on that you want and do. it can range from 2 grand to 12 grand. but i didnt do the head. so i could have gone more.

[WISH ONE]

Pmd You............................

[wylin]

to rebuild the engine right it really depends on the components you select.

The common set up out here will cost between 1000-1500 labor + parts, if u don't know the company/ owner of the various shops. Plus about the same for parts. I'd guess most people spend 3500-5000 total w/ parts$

the build would include:

1. new water pump - 40$
2. new oil pump - safety 240$
3. CP pistons - 500$
4. Overboring the block - 300-400$ (part of labor), optional sleeves -320-350$ parts
5. new eagle or equivalent rods - 300-350$
6. new head gasket -75-150$
7. new head bolts/ studs - 130-150$
6. new gasket kit - 130$
7. new timing chain - 85$
Head:
8. new upgraded Cam's - 400-500$
9. new stronger valve springs- 75-150$
10.new titanium retainers - 150$
11.new intake and exhaust valves - 300$ (set)
12.Labor to press valve springs and hone intake valves - 300$

Re assembly labor.
13. 750-1000$ generally

thats what i consider a full rebuild engine only

- will

[steve shadows]

I charge about 1000 for labor alone, but I really don't do them anymore

[johnw1415]

dude rb20s are junk, that kid needs to stop trying to prove to us that they are good, an iron 6 cyl, or an aluminum 4 with the same displacement... i wonder what would be better. rb25/26 is a way different story, the rb20 is garbage

[s14_legend]

sounds about right for a complete build.

Originally Posted by wylin

to rebuild the engine right it really depends on the components you select.

The common set up out here will cost between 1000-1500 labor + parts, if u don't know the company/ owner of the various shops. Plus about the same for parts. I'd guess most people spend 3500-5000 total w/ parts$

the build would include:

1. new water pump - 40$
2. new oil pump - safety 240$
3. CP pistons - 500$
4. Overboring the block - 300-400$ (part of labor), optional sleeves -320-350$ parts
5. new eagle or equivalent rods - 300-350$
6. new head gasket -75-150$
7. new head bolts/ studs - 130-150$
6. new gasket kit - 130$
7. new timing chain - 85$
Head:
8. new upgraded Cam's - 400-500$
9. new stronger valve springs- 75-150$
10.new titanium retainers - 150$
11.new intake and exhaust valves - 300$ (set)
12.Labor to press valve springs and hone intake valves - 300$

Re assembly labor.
13. 750-1000$ generally

thats what i consider a full rebuild engine only

- will

[loveskylines]

like almost all of the weekend drifter and touge drivers in japan.... the cheapest and most common upgrades are head gasket and turbo....

items such as intake/FMIC, exhaust, downpipe are all a given....

i have some Power Enterprise headgaskets 87mm x 1.1mm and 87mm x 1.5mm for sale as well as a brand new turbo kit...*bolt on*

the power enterprise turbo kit is based on a IHI turbo that spools 500-700 RPM faster than any other turbo on the market....PE1420 kit

oh ya and the headgasket can hold up to 1400psi of boost WITH knocking....

everyone that i know that has used their stuff has no complaints!

check out their website for pics and more specs..www.powerenterpriseusa.net

im asking 1600- for the turbo kit and 200- for the headgasket....



my $.02 on the best bang for ur buck to have some fun

[shmiddy]

Originally Posted by Koopa Troopa

I'll destroy any RB20 with my SR on .5 bar.

Why the Eagle rods and pistons? S15 rods and pistons are more than enough and will probably be cheaper direct from Nissan.

Do the legwork yourself. You'll gain nothing but information and know how out of it and there's plenty of information on the net to prevent you from screwing anything up as long as you follow the step by step procedures, use the right tools and don't get ahead of yourself.

If I was going as far as to strip an entire motor apart I'd do alot more than rebuild it with OEM parts but that's just me...

the s15 piston idea sounds good, but i cant find 'em... seems to me that every site i look at says that s13,14, and 15 have the same internals..... and inste???

[lflkajfj12123]

Originally Posted by Oo_Skyline_oO

K, lets educate the moron(you of course) who said engines "gained" any hp?? take a closer look ret*rd I said that the true hp and the "rated" hp were different. early 90's Japanese auto makers had a "gentlemen's agreement" not to go over a certain hp number so Mitsu, Toyota, and Nissan all rated their motors under 280hp I beleive was the magic numbers, but in reality, the RB26DETT, the 2JZ-GTE, and the 6G72 all made above 300hp. and yes, full track rb swaps are moved in past the firewall. Did I say I was building a full track car?? did I say I was in D1??? did I say I was a world record seting driver??? no...so STFU. those pple have 100's of thousands of dollars to spend for a true track car. I built an economic daily.......who gives two sh*ts if I have a hundred pounds more up front, I use it to run errands, take my daughter on joy rides, and have a blast. my "weight distribution" is completely irrelevant for my application. I named Otis n Josh because I knew some id*ot like you would come along and say " prove it, show some dyno sheets" and I know they have some so if you're really achin' to be proved wrong go ask them and the'y'lle give you all the information you need, that was the purpose of naming them, not to make myself more legit. and ONCE AGAIN. I ONLY attempted to help him with a less costly solution to his poblem. so don't speak for him. he'll say if my information is usefull or not.

i'm going to choke this fucker

[S13Boosts]

Originally Posted by Oo_Skyline_oO

sorry to keep off topic but wow, to the pple who neg repd me, and didn't leave a name, what a buncha pu$, back your shit up b4 you tlk. sorry again, and no, those numbers are pretty acurate unless you're an idiot and don't know how to do a swap. idk about rb25's on an s13 chasis, but yes, stock redtop SR dyno=160-170hp and stock silvertop rb20 dyno= 220-230hp, if you don't beleive me ask otis or josh over a RB-Performance, I'm pretty sure they have dyno sheets. and yes, I realize kooper is alot more knowledgeable with sr20's, I didn't realize that when he said .5 bar he didn't mean stock.

i NEG'd Repd you hello

[exitspeed]

This thread is a fuckin headache. A decent topic gets turned into shit about rep.

Please stay on topic or I'll pink rep you for a couple days.

[morbid]

fuck it yo just put a d15 in dat jawnt shits like 350awhp at da crank angle sensor

But, seriously, when you are doing an engine rebuild, what things are safe for you to do yourself if you have minimal experience and what should you have a shop do for you? If I ever end up needing a rebuild I would like to do as much as I can myself without getting over my head and fucking something up.

[((sr)) kelly]

shut your fucking mouth... i have both engines in my garage RIGHT now and the rb20det is way underpowered....

my rb20 lost to a stock sr20.. i havent met a Rb20 yet that my sr20det won demolish

Originally Posted by Oo_Skyline_oO

uhhhh...... you can try buddy, with your whopping 170hp to the wheels, and my 230 to da wheels on stock boost. oh and now the good part, my motor is more reliable/cheap/waaaaay better sounds too but, just my thoughts I guess

[((sr)) kelly]

ooops.. didnt read the last page.. please dont pink rep me lol

[lflkajfj12123]

Thread Date Posted By Comment Engine Build costs? 05-06-2008 09:49 AM Oo_Skyline_oO serisously......you wanna handle then come over here and try choking me.....thats what i thought so why dont you have a nice tall glass of some shut the fuck up...


haha

sweet!

[golfer17]

I was able to get really good deals on a lot of my parts and so I think the total came to around 3000 + around 700 for labor for my build. Thats with thermal coated cp pistons/eagle rods, 1mm oversized valves (inconel exhaust), valve springs and titanium retainers, arp studs and cometic headgasket (which i do not reccomend), hks cams, and all the maintenace upgraded such as new bronze valve guides, all new seals, new oil pump/front cover, etc.

[dmragecm]

Originally Posted by Oo_Skyline_oO

sorry to keep off topic but wow, to the pple who neg repd me, and didn't leave a name, what a buncha pu$, back your shit up b4 you tlk. sorry again, and no, those numbers are pretty acurate unless you're an idiot and don't know how to do a swap. idk about rb25's on an s13 chasis, but yes, stock redtop SR dyno=160-170hp and stock silvertop rb20 dyno= 220-230hp, if you don't beleive me ask otis or josh over a RB-Performance, I'm pretty sure they have dyno sheets. and yes, I realize kooper is alot more knowledgeable with sr20's, I didn't realize that when he said .5 bar he didn't mean stock.

aaahahahaha silvertop RB hahahahahaha

Id neg rep you if I could.

the op is asking about an sr. No one cares what your opinion is about the RB. Almost everyone has consider almost every possible engine swap. He has his heart set on an sr, so thats what hes goin to do. Your here to talk about the almighty RB20 like it was gods gift to automtives. You dont even know what this guy is using his car, what he wants out of it, or what his budget is. seriously dude your knowledge is overwhelming.

OH yea and kouki kan kan or whatever your gay ass name is I have one thing to say to you wtffffffffffffffffffffffff


To stay on topic. The best advice I can give you is to research, research, research the most reputable shop in your area. Then again its really not that hard to put a motor together. Try to get some friends together that have had experience with piecing a motor together. If you dont konw anyone, Im pretty sure there are ppl that are local that could give you a hand. Just buy some beer and pizza

[((sr)) kelly]

some ass just tried to neg rep me and his comment was... DUDE my rb20det kept up with a "gt3068" sr20det... BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH AAH

[WISH ONE]

thanks... for rep lol...

[spoolandslide]

Originally Posted by Oo_Skyline_oO

sh*t man I'd rather swap in an RB20 in, I calculated 1800-2000 for complete swap, then sell your sr stuff, and get yourself a nice Fmic/bov.

yeah but getting replacement parts for that is going to be a bitch

plus your half right, might as well just get a whole new sr and sell your spare parts off of your fucked up engine

[FRpilot]

Originally Posted by nani

If you do a performance rebuild and dont balance the the components it wont last long. forged pistons and rods are heavier than OEM ones. you must add weight to the counterweights of the crank to compensate, which takes time and time = Money.

is this true? i never hear of ppl mentioning this in build threads. i just want to learn because I plan on learning and building motors in my garage as a hobby one day.

how would you add weight to the counter weights of a crank shaft?

[WISH ONE]

awwww thanks so much for the rep guys i love you all

[Jesses240]

Originally Posted by Rocko

Iv been trying to price out a rebuild for my SR and was wondering if anyone could give me a ballpark idea on what the costs are for machine shop and assembly work?

So far the parts for OEM Seals/Gaskets/Waterpump with ARP Head Studs and Eagle Rods/CP Pistons is around 1600, I figure closer to 2000 once I throw in an Oil pump and other odds and ends.

Im trying to get an idea of what kind of cash Im looking at for Machine shop/ Assembly cost to get all this put together if I decide to do all the legwork myself instead of letting a local shop handel it all.

I did almost exactly what your talking about

New OEM crank
all new bearings
eagle rods
CP pistons
MLS headgasket
arp studs
All new gaskets
timing chain kit
+ all machine work


= 2k for me... Although I did get Dealz on a couple things (like the crank)

[onehundredoctane]

Local (NC) shop rebuilt mine and a few friends SR's, one is currently putting down 400.3 whp in an S13, mine is built to the same specs as one of Enjuku's and theirs put down 550 whp, so I'm sure mine will put down 450 reliably. HP Engines, owned by Hollis Page in NC, I had all my parts in hand when I went to him, 3 angle, polished ports, decked head, complete reassembly, hot tank head and block, clearance valves and back in my hand for $1100, Hollis is a great guy, known him a for a while now, doesn't beat around the bush and usually easy to get ahold of.

[WISH ONE]

wow thats not bad. this place here in oc wanted to charge me 1200 for building my head if i brought him parts.