Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[EFITTZY]

Alright Zilvians and SR Guru's,
Installing a new ISR t25/t28 replacement turbo on my redtop swapped s14 zenki.
I've purchased the ISR line kit to aid with the installation process. I've got everything installed and bolted up, EXCEPT for the oil return/drain line...

The issues I am running into are that the stock t25 oil drain tube doesn't allow for enough clearance between where the drain needs to bend to run back into the block and the steering shaft. This turbo sits slightly lower in the bay than the OEM t25 turbo did. Because of this the drain line has to make a sharp turn that ends up kinking the hose. While trying to make this work I quickly found out that the OEM drain line isn't long enough to reach the nipple on the block. I bought some 5/8 line and tried to run it a different (longer) route around the steering shaft, however I'm worried about clearance being too tight causing it to rub on the steering shaft or worse get pinched.

I have been researching online and haven't see others running into this issue.
I have an s14/s15 t28 oil drain on the way to see if that will fix it, just wondering if others have run into this, and if so how did you remedy it?

This is one of the last things on the list of to-do's before its back on the ground
Thanks in advance!

[Brandon240sx]

What kind of speakers does everyone use in their hatch? Having trouble finding something that sounds good, and that I can hear over my exhaust lmao

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by EFITTZY

Alright Zilvians and SR Guru's,
Installing a new ISR t25/t28 replacement turbo on my redtop swapped s14 zenki.
I've purchased the ISR line kit to aid with the installation process. I've got everything installed and bolted up, EXCEPT for the oil return/drain line...

The issues I am running into are that the stock t25 oil drain tube doesn't allow for enough clearance between where the drain needs to bend to run back into the block and the steering shaft. This turbo sits slightly lower in the bay than the OEM t25 turbo did. Because of this the drain line has to make a sharp turn that ends up kinking the hose. While trying to make this work I quickly found out that the OEM drain line isn't long enough to reach the nipple on the block. I bought some 5/8 line and tried to run it a different (longer) route around the steering shaft, however I'm worried about clearance being too tight causing it to rub on the steering shaft or worse get pinched.

I have been researching online and haven't see others running into this issue.
I have an s14/s15 t28 oil drain on the way to see if that will fix it, just wondering if others have run into this, and if so how did you remedy it?

This is one of the last things on the list of to-do's before its back on the ground
Thanks in advance!

Actually I did run into this issue. Get the gt fitting for the drain and then you'll need to get a 90° molded oil hose to make up the gap and clear column joint.

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[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Brandon240sx

What kind of speakers does everyone use in their hatch? Having trouble finding something that sounds good, and that I can hear over my exhaust lmao

get a quieter exhaust maybe? HKS sports exhaust is 3" and is super quiet... no drone, no issues hearing music or anything inside the cabin

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

I bought a new knock sensor harness but the connector seems to be mirrored, it doesn't fit with the current connector. Are S14a knock sensor harnesses different from other Nissan harnesses or what?
Also it has only one wire coming to sensor itself, does it matter which pin it goes to? Left or right? Just wondering since if it can be either one I can just get a new female/male connector somewhere
This is the one I need

And this is the one I got, seems to be mirrored or something

I'd send it back if the connector is wrong. The top one in your pick matches my S14a/S15 harness.
As far as the wires to the sensor itself: should be the left pin per this wiring specialties harness I just picked up. The black wire is just a ground for the shield around the signal wire.

[Brandon240sx]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

get a quieter exhaust maybe? HKS sports exhaust is 3" and is super quiet... no drone, no issues hearing music or anything inside the cabin

Quieter exhaust is no doubt coming soon. Can’t stand my raspy eBay. I just got the thing back on the road a few days ago which is why I didn’t order it just yet but I was asking what speakers would be best for the hatch in audio quality because I know there’s not much that fits in the front and rear speaker spot

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Brandon240sx

Quieter exhaust is no doubt coming soon. Can’t stand my raspy eBay. I just got the thing back on the road a few days ago which is why I didn’t order it just yet but I was asking what speakers would be best for the hatch in audio quality because I know there’s not much that fits in the front and rear speaker spot

eh, just go find yourself some nice 4x6 speakers and a decent sub. the sub makes a huge difference since you can route all basses to the sub and have the speakers handle the mids and highs... if you have a high pass and low pass filter on your stereo, that can make a huge difference in filtering audio frequencies. or if your stereo allows you to adjust the audio frequencies the highs and lows output. for good lows, youll want 100-120Hz range since thats where subs really pound and like 8000-12,000kHz range for clean and sharp highs. mids in the 2000-4000 are a little tricky since thats the human vocal range... aaaaaaaaaaand im going on off on a tangent.

just go buy some quality 4x6s, get a smaller amp and sub and youll be good!

the exhaust plays the biggest role though... quiet the exhaust down and you wont have to fight with it for audio in your car

ive been running these for like 8 years, they work fine. dont carry a lot of lows, but sound pretty decent for being teeny tiny speakers


https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pioneer...oAhA&gclsrc=ds

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Brandon240sx

What kind of speakers does everyone use in their hatch? Having trouble finding something that sounds good, and that I can hear over my exhaust lmao

When I had a hatch, I used infinity speakers and a single 10" sub. I think at one point I stuck some 6x9s in that hatch trunk cover thing to make it sound better.

[EFITTZY]

Originally Posted by mr.nismo.

Actually I did run into this issue. Get the gt fitting for the drain and then you'll need to get a 90° molded oil hose to make up the gap and clear column joint.

Cheers for the reply and recommendations! If the t28 oil drain I ordered doesn't work, I will pick up the GT fitting and pick up a molded hose.

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by Brandon240sx

What kind of speakers does everyone use in their hatch? Having trouble finding something that sounds good, and that I can hear over my exhaust lmao

Infinity 6.5 inch with 4x6 in the rear. I used to have a 12 inch sub for the massive bass, but I got over it as I got older. Now I have a pioneer shallow 10 in a box that sits flush in the spare tire well. It has a nice clean hit to it. On my new chassis, it'll be new infinity 6.5 component speakers up front, and the others I currently have moved to the rear.

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[derass]

I had 4x6" Alpine Type S all around in my hatch. They sounded alright. Probably could have done with an external amp as well.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by EFITTZY

Cheers for the reply and recommendations! If the t28 oil drain I ordered doesn't work, I will pick up the GT fitting and pick up a molded hose.

Door and rear 6.5/6x9 Memphis Audio
Memphis Audio 10" Sub in a flat enclosure
500W amp / for the speakers
500W amp for the sub

That will drown any exhaust, and sound good doing it

I have 6 Polk Audio(4+ 2t) in my truck with a Alpine head unit and 450W amp.
Polk Audio sound good, but I sure do miss my Memphis Audio I had in my old car

[[240sx]]

**Update**
Raised the ride height yesterday to about where it was with my lowering springs combo as I was going to swap them in a pair at a time to diagnose whether the front or rears c/o where my problem. Test drove it (still on c/o) and the bounce is pretty much gone... soooo this begs the question, W.T.F! The ride height should not effect the C/O's shock travel, right?

Any ideas as to what other suspension components these were fighting? Reealy annoyed to have spent money on coilovers, just to be back to lowering springs ride height. Sure it's firm, with limited body roll and slightly lowered, but that money could have been better spent on Anti-roll bars and better tires!! /Rant

[dorkidori_s13]

it sounds like a problem with the dampers... probably time for a rebuild

[Jo_Galezo]

Hey guys, i wanted to start upgrading my handling components on my car(s13) but im competely clueless as to what does what & right now i have PBM Tension Rods & im gonna buy a nismo power brace along with nismo subframe bushings. I was wondering what things i should get next that would make the biggest impact or what upgrades you guys have done that you feel comfortable with. And im not gonna be tracking/drifting my car at all. It’s just for street/daily driving so i dont need anything for crazy angle. Thanks! Just wanna know whats absoloutely neccesary when you start doing these undercarriage upgrades & what doesnt really matter.


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[dorkidori_s13]

tie rod and toe rod ends... plus front AND rear lower control arms (OE replacement even makes a huge difference)

basically EVERY bushing in your car is worn out! PERIOD! so keep that in mind

[Jo_Galezo]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

tie rod and toe rod ends... plus front AND rear lower control arms (OE replacement even makes a huge difference)

Dis is why i like you thank you! & i love the lip btw. Already hit a huge speed bump & the lip took it like a champ


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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Jo_Galezo

Hey guys, i wanted to start upgrading my handling components on my car(s13) but im competely clueless as to what does what & right now i have PBM Tension Rods & im gonna buy a nismo power brace along with nismo subframe bushings. I was wondering what things i should get next that would make the biggest impact or what upgrades you guys have done that you feel comfortable with. And im not gonna be tracking/drifting my car at all. It’s just for street/daily driving so i dont need anything for crazy angle. Thanks! Just wanna know whats absoloutely neccesary when you start doing these undercarriage upgrades & what doesnt really matter.


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Replace all the bushings and suspension arms. Good arms come with good bushings, so only buy the bushings you need, like differential, driveline, and motor mounts(you might want to think about oe on those vs Nismo or ISR/hocky pucks becuase if you are dailying, it's nicer. ISR will give you lots of vibration inside, but screw it, racecar, right. Suspension bushings, coil overs, anti sway bars(ST comes with Energy Suspension bushings).
Brakes upgrade, Stop Tech/Centric Sport is a great upgrade for less than 300ZX or the 2k big brake kits, 300ZX kit can be done cheap up front through Advance Auto, but be weary of 2 different types of kit.
then wheels and tires. Now that the car feels slow, time for engine upgrades or swaps
PS CD009 trans beats all

[derass]

Just to clarify the above, I didn't notice the Nismo mounts to transmit any more vibration than stock.

And I'd like to add, the biggest improvement/$ for braking and handling is a good set of brake pads (Hawk HPS or HP+), and sticky tires (EXP category: RE71R, Direzza Z2, RS4, Rival etc.).

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by derass

Just to clarify the above, I didn't notice the Nismo mounts to transmit any more vibration than stock.

I did. Went from tired stock oe mounts to Nismo motor & trans mounts and could not only feel the difference, but some interior bits would slightly buzz at a certain resonance. I think that really depends on the condition / age of the chassis (interior). Now energy suspension diff mounts... THAT made a difference. (both performance & NVH)

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[JrDarknes]

My S13 is leaking gas.

Its near the fuel pump area. It's like the fuel pump o-ring seal is not doing its job. I replaced it twice. Everytime I start it, immediately it starts leaking again. I know I tightened up the bolts enough and it is seated correctly. As soon as I start it I see the fuel pump cover getting wet and eventually it starts to drip down to the ground. My hoses are fine.

Anyone know why I am still having this issue? Any recommendations to fix it?

[kahoot]

I guess this is kinda a small question but:

In the current market, how much does it cost to LQ9/LS1 swap an S13 (just the cost to get the engine into a stock shell running and driving). I’ve priced the build out a few times, but I’ve been told countless times that swapping an engine into a car always goes over budget. Therefor, I’m looking for someone who has done this in the past that can shed some light on how much it really cost. Is 10-15k reasonable?

It’s either this or just buying a prebuilt 1j/2j car.. anyways, thanks! And I’m really sorry if this is in the wrong place aha.

[Gremo]

How good is your fab work?
Wiring skills?

There are swap kits to help if you don't have the ability to build mounts and integrate the wiring the the s13 chassis.

Some people forget the small stuff and that's where it ads up.








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[Yad]

anyone know where this rubber hose goes conneted to? it comes from the intake manifold. in a ka24de

[[240sx]]

^^ Sorry man, but that is a horrible picture.

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[Yad]

sorry man my phone has a serious shitty camera lol

[Yad]

the thin rubber one, I hope this pic is less shittier than the other one

[[240sx]]

S13 or S14?

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[Yad]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

S13 or S14?

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1990 s13 ka24de manual trans

[[240sx]]

Can you snap a clear pic of where it's coming from? I have an S14, so idk if it'll be the same. There a bunch of crap in my way, but this is the only thing I can see from your pics that might be it?

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