This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

Andy, just measured the stock ones off my coupe.

S13 outer is 3.88” measured from threaded end to pivot point.

I also have some S14 and 88-94 Maxima outers in my garage. They match up to those quoted numbers. S14 might be 3.69” (3-11/16) but that’s splitting hairs.

Awesome, updated.

So I bought a Wisefab rear kit, and I've been told by several people that they bend easily, which I was very perplexed about, since they don't seem to be giving any of the pro guys issues with wheel to wheel contact and such. I went to look at my knuckles and they've definitely been updated since the pictures on the first post. Pretty obviously strengthening if you compare the two. Nice to know!

[!Zar!]

So does anyone have some dope in-action shots of all these rad parts on their fine automobiles?

[sr vegas 240]

How do I get more angle out of my gktech lca? I am currently at 55 degree and if I go any more wheels will rub. I have the longer s14 arms but they are adjusted all the way in do I just lengthen then out? Wheels are 17x8 +35 gktech drop knuckle and gktech super lock lca

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by !Zar!

So does anyone have some dope in-action shots of all these rad parts on their fine automobiles?

Idk if Vimeo can be embedded, but PBM has a really neat video showing each setting of the adjustable toe curve of their limit break rear knuckle through the suspension travel.
https://vimeo.com/136145062

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[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Idk if Vimeo can be embedded, but PBM has a really neat video showing each setting of the adjustable toe curve of their limit break rear knuckle through the suspension travel.
https://vimeo.com/136145062

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very cool! we can also adjust toe in or out with traction arm correct?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

very cool! we can also adjust toe in or out with traction arm correct?

Ummmm, you can adjust the toe curve with the traction rod. Without modifying the toe arm mount, it's doubtful you're going to be able to get the car to toe in under compression, but you can certainly get it to toe in less.

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by tuzzio

Never heard of them. Browsed their site, wish that rack centering spacer would fit a stock set up. Pretty neat idea.

I do make them for stock tie rods, they are not up on my website yet. You have to make sure that your tie rods don't have any step machined into them. If they have a step in them or your using those slip on spacers my rack alignment tool will not work properly. Please email me [email protected] and i can get you hooked up with one. I have a few more in stock and another batch that will be finished soon!

They are very simple but makes it a total no brain centering your steering rack to the wheel for max travel in both directions. Any time that you do an alignment slap that thing on there and now the alignment guy (or you) cant mess it up. This is especially helpful when on a digital alignment rack or using smart strings.

Track side if we feel that the toe is off based off driver feedback, you will slap the rack centering tool in and visually look at each wheel to see which side may have moved and attack that side with the adjustment to get the alignment back the specs that it had when it left the shop.

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

I had the PBM eccentric rack bushings for a while and has issues with the rack slipping left/right when hitting lock.

Wow,
That is quite interesting

Sounds like you need to tighten the saddles up a little bit more. Mine are fine (so I think)..

[PoorMans180SX]

Moved my rack 45mm forward.

[Def]

...a lot of load actually goes through the front crossmember. I'm not sure that's providing much rigidity to the chassis now.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Def

...a lot of load actually goes through the front crossmember. I'm not sure that's providing much rigidity to the chassis now.

It is fully boxed. Stitched inside and out. That picture does make it look like there's no vertical rib in the middle, although there is. Not really sure how I'd brace it more really? Needs just a couple more welds as I ran out of wire. The strut towers will also be tied into the firewall (which will be tied to cage) and forward rails with 1.5" DOM. Engine bay is completely stitched. I'd imagine anything lost here would be more than made up for with the tubing and stitching.

[Def]

Given that bending produced by the chassis trying to deflect the strut towers inward, like you get when cornering, is going to be proportional to the width of the cross member cubed - I'd say you took a ton of rigidity and strength out of it. Say the original crossmember was equivalent to a box that's 4" wide, now it looks like it's maybe equivalent to a box that's ~0.25" wide in the center. That means you now have 0.25^3/4^3 = 0.024% the stiffness in bending.

Even if you say all that extra gussetting on the bottom adds to the equivalent of a 0.5" thick box section in bending, you still only have .5^3/4^3 = 0.19% the bending stiffness.

There's a reason the OEM cross member is a large tubular structure. You can't just hack out huge parts of that and say it's good because you put some incomplete fusion MIG tacks on pieces of it.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Def

There's a reason the OEM cross member is a large tubular structure. You can't just hack out huge parts of that and say it's good because you put some incomplete fusion MIG tacks on pieces of it.

Good to know. I’d still say the rest of the bay work more than makes up for the loss. It’s more like 2” across but yeah. I could tie the steering rack mount “tails” together with something. The wisefab ultimate kit does similar.

Also lol at incomplete fusion. Those heat marks on the underside are weld almost coming out the back of the plate. Full penetration. The only reason the beads are tall is because I circle the weld.

[Def]

I was talking about a BOX section, not the width of one leg of a piece of angle iron, which is pretty much what your crossmember is now. It’s called the second moment area of inertia to bending if you want to look it up.

[derass]

Originally Posted by Def

Given that bending produced by the chassis trying to deflect the strut towers inward, like you get when cornering, is going to be proportional to the width of the cross member cubed...

I think you made a mistake here.

I=bh^3

[godrifttoday]

I’m open to criticism on my rack relocation

[PoorMans180SX]

Installed my rear wisefab kit tonight. Lower control arms are a total PITA. I should have checked fitment before I welded up the gktech kit, I'm sure it would have been a bit easier. Prying and hammering were involved, and the rod ends are close to maxed on their articulation, but it should work.

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Installed my rear wisefab kit tonight. Lower control arms are a total PITA. I should have checked fitment before I welded up the gktech kit, I'm sure it would have been a bit easier. Prying and hammering were involved, and the rod ends are close to maxed on their articulation, but it should work.

Looks killer man!! I just need to finish moving down my rlca front pickups, and I'll be throwing on my gk tech stuff.

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[mr.nismo.]

Almost done with one pickup, then just need to do driver side. On the driver side I was experimenting with having the stock and dropped location, but decided to go with just the lowered bracket alone.

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[!Zar!]

That wisefab thing looks like a headache to align.

There a race shop which can align that for you or what?

[TheRealSy90]

Got some neat pics from my first event in the car last Saturday! Finally got to drift on the Driftknuckles.com Unicorn Knuckles and I have to say they drive amazingly. I had steering angle forever and could really focus on just driving the car where I wanted it. If I actually let it lock out all the way I would start crab walking sideways which felt crazy at first.







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[Stein180sx]

GkTech V3 knuckle update.....the CTS-V brake swap brackets bolt on to the knuckles with a little modification and new haedware. For anyone interested.

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[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by Stein180sx

GkTech V3 knuckle update.....the CTS-V brake swap brackets bolt on to the knuckles with a little modification and new haedware. For anyone interested.

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I'm actually interested as I have v brakes. Whos conversion kit do you have?

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[Stein180sx]

www.ctsvbrakeswap.com

To note, I have the S13 V3 knuckles.

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[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by Stein180sx

www.ctsvbrakeswap.com

To note, I have the S13 V3 knuckles.

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I have the same kit and v3 grip knuckles. What in all did you have to change out?

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[Stein180sx]

A little more clearancing, and had to use allen head cap screw bolts as the tolerances are really close.

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[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by Stein180sx

A little more clearancing, and had to use allen head cap screw bolts as the tolerances are really close.

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Clearance on what part of the caliper? And where did you get the other hex bolts you needed? I planned on trying Ace hopefully they'll have 12.9

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[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by !Zar!

That wisefab thing looks like a headache to align.

There a race shop which can align that for you or what?

Check the signature! I am that race shop haha.

[tuzzio]

Originally Posted by mr.nismo.

And where did you get the other hex bolts you needed?

Not that I have any experience with this set up at all but, if push comes to shove look into ARP's catalog of hardware. Sure its more expensive than the hardware store, but for instance their 10mm bolts have 12mm heads on them. Can really save tons of headaches.

[Stein180sx]

I cant quite remember all of the sizes off hand, but i bought the hardware through theboltdepot.com. I'll try and post up thr sizes when I get back to it.

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