s14 subframe install into s13

[BlueDream240]

Originally Posted by brndck

are you still using the factory cam bolt? or have you switched to an eccentric lockout? I've never heard anyone run into this issue, either with s13 or s14 spindles. I used s14 subframe with z32 rear uprights and had zero issue.

I am still using the factory cam bolt but I plan on going eccentric lockout after buying adjustable ruca's. So I had my car on the alignment rack and my toe was off by about 4 degrees in the rear which is REALLY terrible. The worst part about it was that I could not do anything to correct this as my adjustable toe arms were the shortest length possible. I'm sure that adjustable ruca's would help with the toe somewhat but there has to be something that is the cause of this. I figured it was me running s13 spindles because I have seen some people say you need s14 spindles with s14 rlca, which is misleading as many also say that you can use s13 spindles. My car squeals like crazy and I feel the tires skidding from the crazy toe in. The only thing I could think of was switching to s14 spindles which I have just bought from ebay and they are on the way. Any reason why I would have 4 degrees of toe in?

[brndck]

Originally Posted by BlueDream240

I am still using the factory cam bolt but I plan on going eccentric lockout after buying adjustable ruca's. So I had my car on the alignment rack and I figured it was me running s13 spindles because I have seen some people say you need s14 spindles with s14 rlca, which is misleading as many also say that you can use s13 spindles.

Do you have the factory cam bolt moved as close to the center of the car as possible?

[Standard]

Wow, old thread!

What brand arms are you using? Having adjustable rucas and traction arms would probably help solve your issue. Also, toe isn't EDIT: ALWAYS measured in degrees

[BlueDream240]

Originally Posted by brndck

Do you have the factory cam bolt moved as close to the center of the car as possible?

I adjusted it to make it as to "green" or spec. I'm probably going to get tthe lockout kit.

[BlueDream240]

Originally Posted by Standard

Wow, old thread!

What brand arms are you using? Having adjustable rucas and traction arms would probably help solve your issue. Also, toe isn't measured in degrees

The only aftermarket arms I have are SPL s14 toe arms and OE s14 rlca with brand new megan ball joint. I plan on buying ISR ruca's for adjustability (not performance lol) and from what I've read, I won't get adjustable traction arms just yet. I did not know what to call the unit of measurement as I just move toe to green on the alignment rack. My real concern is that the ball joint doesn't look to be completely seated in the spindle and I'm worried it's because it's an s14 rlca in a s13 spindle/knuckle. I have s14 spindles on the way and if I can use my s13 ones then I'll paint and put new bushings in the s14 ones for future install. Thanks for visiting this old thread to help a new Zilvian out.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by Standard

Also, toe isn't measured in degrees

every computerized alignment rack ive used measures/displays toe in degrees

Originally Posted by BlueDream240

. My real concern is that the ball joint doesn't look to be completely seated in the spindle and I'm worried it's because it's an s14 rlca in a s13 spindle/knuckle. .

yeah this def concerns me.

[Standard]

Originally Posted by brndck

every computerized alignment rack ive used measures/displays toe in degrees


yeah this def concerns me.

Haha that is interesting, I stand corrected!
The only alignment racks I've used measure toe in inches lol

And as far as the ball joint goes, make sure it's not just an illusion, if one boot is full of grease and the other isn't, it can look weird. Definitely need to make sure though, good luck

[BlueDream240]

So for future Zilvians who were curious of the compatibility of s14 rlca into s13 knuckles/spindles here is what I have learnded from my research.

1) The RLCA are the same length. From the center of the inboard bushings to the center of the ball joint = 300mm on both s13 and s14.
2) They use the same interchangeable ball joint in the REAR
3) Only difference is mounting points for sway bar, the fact that s14 rlca has additional bracing, and of course the mounting points on the subframe.

With this I will have to double check my rear end work to see whats causing my toe-in issues. I will update my findings.

[ixfxi]

Originally Posted by NismoPlsr

It's Kouki s14 subframes that have the additional reinforcements, same as s15.

lots of misinformation out there... including this ^

there is no difference between kouki or zenki, s14 or s15, spec R or spec anything. The bracing varies wildly on all of these subframes, no matter the year S14 or S15. Its a random shitbag lottery. Grab yourself a welder and add the braces, done and done.

I did the same with all the control arms, boxed them in and braced them.

[jared420sx]

For all you kids out there i will post my s14 subframeage into my s13 debauchery. Bottom line use s14 knuckles. Tried with gk tech knuckles didn't work.


S14 subframe with gk tech reinforcements, spl conversion bushing and s14 diff cover on welded s13 diff for sale hmu.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BlueDream240]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

For all you kids out there i will post my s14 subframeage into my s13 debauchery. Bottom line use s14 knuckles. Tried with gk tech knuckles didn't work.


S14 subframe with gk tech reinforcements, spl conversion bushing and s14 diff cover on welded s13 diff for sale hmu.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why did they not work? I'm currently using s13 knuckles myself. I do plan on using s14 knuckles but am concerned with s13 coils on s14 knuckles.

[NismoPlsr]

Originally Posted by ixfxi

lots of misinformation out there... including this ^

there is no difference between kouki or zenki, s14 or s15, spec R or spec anything. The bracing varies wildly on all of these subframes, no matter the year S14 or S15. Its a random shitbag lottery. Grab yourself a welder and add the braces, done and done.

I did the same with all the control arms, boxed them in and braced them.

Well logic would suggest that bracing would be added later in time if Nissan found it to be necessary. Doesn't matter though, like you said, find a good frame and add bracing yourself. That's what I did.

[ixfxi]

Originally Posted by NismoPlsr

Well logic would suggest that bracing would be added later in time if Nissan found it to be necessary. Doesn't matter though, like you said, find a good frame and add bracing yourself. That's what I did.

I wish you were right, but thats not the case. The last car I worked on was original owner, 1995 SE and everything was original, including a subframe with OE bracing. Which conflicts with subframes that I've received from various other cars, S14 *OR* S15, which did not have the bracing. So yeah, it makes no fucking sense at all. The same goes for the axles, you'll randomly run into cars with the 5-bolt axles versus the 3x2. The 3x2 are obviously the most common.

[kowalatea]

brand new here guys, and about to start my first s13 build, im picking up a s13hb shell today for the great price of free, but its literally a shell no gas tank no sub frame no cross members nothing zilch nadda. i want to build the car for the track(grip not slide) and the occasional public road trip.

ive been told the s14 is a wider sub frame is that a fact? does any one have measurements to prove so?

i know i want to run solid bushings on either sub frame i go with and i know i want adjust-ability in my suspension.

i also know i want to do away with the drum e brake and just run every thing off the disks.

from what ive gathered i need
-s14 sub frame
-s14 RLCA
-S14 toe arms
-s14 diff or diff cover
-s13 RUCA
- off set solid bushings(are they really considerd i bushing if its solid )

my questions are what else is needed to make it a 5 lug set up and what brake system do i need to run in order to eliminate the drum e brake