This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[GripTerror]

It's somewhere in here.... lol can't believe this thread has become 104 pages... well.... it's an aftermarket subframe that's based on an s14 design but with adjustability... apparently the squat can be adjusted and what have you... but seriously it's madly overpriced...

I suppose OP should include details on it in the opening thread.

[95KA-Turbo]

I am really greatful for the list of info on the front page. I had to order a few replacement parts today and I didn't have to dig through anything to remember exactly what I had haha.

I also mailed my knuckles out to PSM today!!

[Patrick Bowering]

so I did an alignment and put caster down to 6.25 degrees and I went out tonight and did a few laps and it handles like ass now hahaha taking it back to 7 ish so the car will atleast self steer a little and not just slap to full lock and stay there. I mean the dampers arent set and shit but I can tell that its just brutal maybe with a ton of reverse rake it would be ok.

[PoorMans180SX]

Sounds like you're overcentering.

[thefro526]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Sounds like you're overcentering.

Seconded, based on your description.

If you're not over-centering (You'll feel a noticeable bit of resistance as you attempt to pull the wheel off of lock if you are.) then you just weren't running enough caster.

[SoSideways]

Haven't been on here in ages, and I've just started to care about car stuff again, so I'm back on here.

Basically, just wanted to report not having any problems with the tie rod ends that I made, nor have I had any problems with the modded FLCAs, and I've been driving around on the street for a few months.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by thefro526

I apologize if this has been brought up before, but does anyone know anything about this: JUN Auto Drag Rear Member

You can see in the picture that the front pickup points for the FLCA have been dropped A LOT. This reduces anti-squat, giving some more traction for the 1320 guys.

It's not worth anywhere near $3K.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Patrick Bowering

so I did an alignment and put caster down to 6.25 degrees and I went out tonight and did a few laps and it handles like ass now hahaha taking it back to 7 ish so the car will atleast self steer a little and not just slap to full lock and stay there. I mean the dampers arent set and shit but I can tell that its just brutal maybe with a ton of reverse rake it would be ok.

Remind me of your steering modifications again... Are you adjusting caster with the tension rods?

If you can, take some pictures of the FLCA and tie rod end from below at full lock.

[DC Dan MAX USA]

Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo

I also mailed my knuckles out to PSM today!!

Thanks! They will come back looking like this:

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo

I am really greatful for the list of info on the front page. I had to order a few replacement parts today and I didn't have to dig through anything to remember exactly what I had haha.

I also mailed my knuckles out to PSM today!!

You're welcome! Just trying to give back to the community in a small way.

I'm excited to see you using the knuckles to their full ability, and you always make great reviews. I'm strongly considering ordering them myself.

Also, to everyone, I'm starting work on a revision to the original posts, I'll let you know when they're up!

[Patrick Bowering]

its not overcentering because it doesnt get "stuck" i suppose it could be borderline overcentering but my steering stop is my sway bar so ya. it just feels weird becuase there is very very little self steer like it wont even transition without steering input. i am adjusting with tension rod. and I have an s13 with s14 control arms and modded pbm knuckles with 25mm rcc aswell. I have s14 inner and outer tie rods and georges spacers to make them long enough to run the good hole in the knuckles. front toe is aroun1/4 out ish and caster is 6.2 I will be putting it back to around 7 I think because i was not having any issues with 7.6. I sure did take self steering for granted though.

[Patrick Bowering]

also the car cannot turn to full lock at a standstill. I have to roll the car forward or backward slightly. I am not worried about this I am just seeing what you all have to say and if its normal or not.

[SoSideways]

^Mine does that.

That's normal.

[PoorMans180SX]

Thought this was a pretty cool pic of Dan's S15. Shows the LCA drop and a little better view of the angle the FLCA's sit at with the correction.

[JaredP]

That knuckle is so awesome. Just looks good sitting there lol

[prego]

i have the psm flca and need ideas for a bolt on adjustable lock stop anyone have ideas all i can think of is something like this

[az_240]

delete...........

[DC Dan MAX USA]

weld one on like the above picture?

[Pandapants]

Dan, did you say we could purchase the psm rc mod independently from the max pro angle mod right? would the rc mod also include lowering the tie rod mounting point like previously pictured?

[DC Dan MAX USA]

Yes we have the ability to do 45mm roll center with stock angle, stock quickness, stock ackerman, and no bump steer

yes that includes lowering the tie rod mounting point down like the pic of the angle mod, but it is not shortened for super angle.

Our CNC jig that we do this work on is precise and the settings are mirror images left to right side. Its properly engineered.

Your choice, Its $400 either way for the 45mm Pro grip or Pro drift knuckle mod.

[mikerbike]

I got to drive an S13 with the rack moved forward. Not sure how far. He said he had to extend his steering shaft a bit, so I assume he moved it as far forward as it will go.

Anyway, in mine, with ~13mm shorter knuckles and tie rod pickup lowered ~13mm, I usually give the wheel a flick to full lock to start a transition. And usually at full lock, I get some wobble. I assume that's from over-centering.

With his, I flicked it and the wheel didn't stop where I expected it to stop. So the transition was much harder than I anticipated and I thought I had spun us out. I left the throttle on and let the wheel go to full lock. I had lost way too much speed, and I was basically backward, but the rear end didn't come all the way around.

He has a lot more rear grip than I, but I'm still pretty excited to get some offset spacers. That way, I can add some caster again and get rid of my wobble.

[PoorMans180SX]

Did both cars have the same knuckle mods?

[mikerbike]

No. He modded his with less ackerman. Probably dropped and shortened pretty close to the same though.

[SoSideways]

Originally Posted by mikerbike

Anyway, in mine, with ~13mm shorter knuckles and tie rod pickup lowered ~13mm, I usually give the wheel a flick to full lock to start a transition. And usually at full lock, I get some wobble. I assume that's from over-centering.

I haven't been around reading this thread, but what other mods have you done? Because a wobble could be loose/old worn out parts.

[mikerbike]

Not much I guess..

Originally Posted by mikerbike

I did this a few weeks ago.


It seems to work great. I cooled it in a bucket of sand, but I heard some guys still break them. I made another pair with the spindles I took off the car. I'm definitely installing them on my second car, and making a third pair for when they do break.

I don't use rack spacers with these, but I still have the factory stops on the control arms.

Originally Posted by mikerbike

I found out some interesting stuff this week.

Since I modified my knuckles, I stopped using MAX rack spacers, since my outer tie rod hit the control arm before the rack bottomed out. But, in the quest for a flatter contact patch, I was reducing caster via tension rod adjustment.

As the wheel moved back in the well, it gained angle as a trailing wheel. I liked that a lot, less ackerman without losing leading wheel angle. My 17x9 +9 was hitting the tension rod/sway bar hard.

But, as the leading wheel, the rack started bottoming out before the tie rod hit the control arm. I installed the MAX rack spacers again, and goofed around with it for a few hours to find a happy medium.


That's with the front of the wheel about 1/4" away from the sway bar.

That's about it. But I can see that the line from the inner tie rod end to the outer tie rod end might go right through the lower ball joint pivot. It's close.

[SoSideways]

That looks like you actually have more angle on the trailing wheel than the leading wheel.

That is probably where your problem is.

Your leading wheel is supposed to have more angle than the trailing wheel, or both wheels have the same angle, not the other way around.

[mikerbike]

Either you're high, or you're looking at the pictures backward. The top picture is my left wheel, bottom is right wheel. Both wheels are at full lock to the left. I took them standing behind the wheels.

And when I wrote that, I was confused about leading & trailing wheel. I was thinking the wheel in front while drifting was the leading wheel.

[mikerbike]

And now I read your post again, and I'm confused again. The 'leading wheel' is the wheel that follows during a drift, correct? Because if one were gripping the same corner, it would be the in front. Argh. Confusing.

[Otto347]

Originally Posted by mikerbike

The 'leading wheel' is the wheel that follows during a drift, correct?

Well then why would they call it leading as opposed to following......

[95KA-Turbo]

I was a little worried they wouldn't allow my LCA to clear my rotor since my LCA is spaced down as well. Luckily they have more then enough room!