This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[Lutz Performance]

That is would i would assume. The only one I've seen diff was Kyle Pollard's, he extended between the tension rod and chassis.

[huffandpuff00]

ill ask kyle this week why he extended it on that side... I would think you would want to move away from the tension rod.

I know he was wanting to move the wheel out cause it was hitting the frame rail

[Lutz Performance]

ya, just seems that would stress the tension rod components, but in the pic it looks fine.

[TrustS13]

I posted my setup earlier, but here it is in action.

[Matej]

Would more positive caster be beneficial for 'snap' steering?

Most setup tips seem to focus on angle, but is there a checklist for making my car steer like this?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Matej

Would more positive caster be beneficial for 'snap' steering?

Most setup tips seem to focus on angle, but is there a checklist for making my car steer like this?

That car actually doesn't have a lot of caster. Making the steering arm extra short allows you to flick or snap the steering wheel extra fast. Also having the proper low-speed rebound setting on your shocks helps.

326 Power knuckles are not that short though (as seen below) basically any aftermarket knuckle made for drifting will allow you to do that.

[NoPistons!]

Matej, that car reminds me alot of how Mitsuru used to snap his fc around. That driving style is my favorite.

Wonder if they are running swaybars F&R?

Originally Posted by huffandpuff00

I moved my rack forward 25-30mm but I didn't have to lengthen my steering shaft... The connector joint bolted up fine and haven't had any issue with it for past year.

Are some columns/shafts longer?

I have no idea. That's interesting though and relevant in the thread. For the record, usdm 240sx s13. 20mm give or take.

[SicBastard]

I havn't even moved my rack and all of a sudden I can't quite get my universal joint down far enough onto the steering rack?! Anybody have any idea how to lengthen an S14 steering rack? It looks like there is a splined slip joint on the rack, but I can't get it to slide there at all. I'd love to ditch my urethane steering rack bushings for the MAX solid ones, but first I've got to make sure I can get the steering rack back on. Help?!

[My$800S14]

Originally Posted by IThaJokaI

JC, you would extend after the TC rod, before the balljoint(obviously lol.)

Mikerbike, the s14 LCA is longer between the TC rod and balljoint. But the difference in length only adds around 1* more negative camber over what you would have had with s13 LCAs.

Originally Posted by Lutz Performance

which side of the control are do you normally extend?
i've given up trying to get s14 lca, so just gonna pony up and buy another set of s13s and extend them. Would like to get -3 w/o using Camber plates

if im not mistaken the s14 lca is 17mm longer than the s13 and yes it is between the traction rod and the ball joint

[mikerbike]

Damnit. I've heard 1/4", 10mm, 12mm, 15mm and now 17mm. Not in that order. The steel strap I bought from Home depot was $7, IIRC. I used some scraps to box the arms after the extension. I'd imagine that's another $20 max. Cheaper and more effective than S14 stuff, IMO.

[tryangle]

Been reading through this thread alot and its helped me get my supension tuned exactly how I want it. Its a 87 corolla with a VQ35 and s13/s14/ custom made suspension parts, using a Baddline S186 conversion control arm.






Gets alot more lock with tension on the steering wheel.

[huffandpuff00]

I dropped off my LCA's to get welded up by kyle today(figured id have a professional do these) and asked him about the LCA extending before the tension rod. He said his wheels dont hit the tension rod because he runs spacers and has the top hats all the way out. so it didn't matter what side he added to. he just chose inner

Originally Posted by Lutz Performance

That is would i would assume. The only one I've seen diff was Kyle Pollard's, he extended between the tension rod and chassis.

I hope my inners are long enough!





passenger wheel is hitting tension rod before drivers side outer can contact the lca

[mikerbike]

Originally Posted by huffandpuff00

I hope my inners are long enough!

My Ikeya Formula inners weren't long enough. I had some extra KA cam bolts, a pair of nuts with the same thread pitch, and a pair of sleeves. Weld them together and what do you get? Bibbity-Bobbity-something.



Not sure how much of this I've posted already, but my setup is 1.5" extended CAs, knuckles chopped to 3.875" BJ-TR with ~0* ackerman, rack relocated ~30mm forward, TC rod misalignment spacers modified for more trailing wheel clearance, 17x7.5 +1.

[BOROSUN]

are kazama s14 inner still spec to r32/33?

my maxima inners just arrived it's end thread is 3 inches/ 76.2 mm. i wish it was more beefy.

[Lutz Performance]

Originally Posted by TrustS13

I posted my setup earlier, but here it is in action.

what power are you running and how are you liking the Zero ackerman? also how much correction was added?

[s13coupedrfter]

Here's mine. The car doesnt have that crazy pre-loaded feel normally associated with slammed 240's

[Matej]

Received the MAX tie rods yesterday. They look quite nice.

Originally Posted by mikerbike

Damnit. I've heard 1/4", 10mm, 12mm, 15mm and now 17mm. Not in that order.

Has it been established that the S14 FLCA are 10mm longer?
I sold my S14 ones, but I would like to know the exact difference so I can account for it when I buy an S13 pair to have extended. Assuming the S14 FLCA were 10mm longer, I am having trouble deciding whether to have the S13 ones extended 3 or 4cm.

[slow_sr20]

Originally Posted by s13coupedrfter

Here's mine. The car doesnt have that crazy pre-loaded feel normally associated with slammed 240's

how low is your car? pics of control arm with the car on the ground-i almost went this route.

[Def]

Why are you guys keeping the FLCA bushing? That's the 2nd worst bushing in our cars after the stock tension rod marshmellow.

Put a rod end there and the front of the car feels so much more precise.

[e1_griego]

Hooray!

[ashot]

Hey guys,

Want to thank everyone for sharing their setups / gathered info. Helped point me in the right direction, and created a black hole in my wallet about a year ago

My cut / weld extended inners are wearing out, planning to replace them with an easy to find OEM one. So did some NAPA online research, wanted to share it with everyone:

89-94 240sx.. 11.10" (m12x1.25)
95-98 240sx.. 11.37"
94-99 maxima 11.42"
96-99 i30...... 11.42"
97-01 Q45..... 12.00" (same with 01-06)
00-04 i30...... 12.91"
99-03 maxima 12.91"
03-08 maxima 13.30" (same with 04-06)

Only problem: hate to loose the built in spacer. Going to try and machine the OEM's at work, but am scared that not enough is possible without removing too much of the "wrench flats". Wanted to buy George's spacers, but he doesnt make them anymore

Could anyone post a pic of the PSM new inner beside a ruller?

[singlecamslam]

Can you guys post the materials maybe part # even in what you're using for the rod end at the end of the control arm and the threaded pipe part the rod end spins into? I made some a long time ago and cut off the end of a godspeed control arm and got a QA1 rod end. I want to make another set and dont remember dimensions..

[Matej]

Originally Posted by ashot

Could anyone post a pic of the PSM new inner beside a ruller?

MAX is black.
The silver one is Circuit Sports with a MAX spacer.

[DC Dan MAX USA]

Those measurements above are obviously from end of the inner joint threads to the end of the rod threads.

Parts Shop MAX Spherical bearing CrMo S14 inner tie rods are about 12.5 inches measured in the same manner.


Here is all the info from the site:

We are proud to release this very unique part!
First a warning. The downside of the spherical bearing or pillowball joint is that it cant be used on OEM type strut and spring because the range of motion is 30 degrees, thats about half of the OEM tie rod range. The OEM suspension has tons of down travel which is where the tie rod needs to have a lot of droop. Some Coilovers like KW that are not full tap coilovers have a lot of droop too, like stock, but for almost everyone whose coilovers have 50% or less travel than stock suspension, this is no problem at all!
This joint range of motion has nothing to do with steering angle because the tie rod joint hardly moves while pushing the knuckles steering arm, most of the joint motion is from suspension compression and droop.
The limited range of motion actually allows us to beef up the skinniest part of the tie rod, its 50% thicker near the edge of the ball housing. Because S13 Spec is only 12mm thread, we only offer this in S14 spec which is M14 1.5 thread. The thread that attaches to the tie rod end is 20mm longer than stock. The thread that goes into the rack is 7mm longer then stock. We have moved the typical hex position from the middle of the rod where forces can focus on the sharp edges of the hex to bend and crack under stress to a larger 20mm DIA section near the boot retainer. The star of the show here is the precision teflon lined maintenance free spherical bearing that replaces the OEM style plastic lined joint used in every other tie rod on the market today. This allows way more joint strength and a more direct steering feel. The extended length is a perfect compliment to our FLCA and Super steering angle knuckles, but the length may need to be cut down if used with standard knuckles and lower control arms.

~ Teflon lined spherical bearing joint
~ 7mm built in rack spacer for increased steering angle
~ 7mm longer rack threads
~ 20mm longer threads on the tie rod end
~ Black electro coating with gold plated lock ring
~ CrMo rod material

$80/pair.
Add to cart on zilvia here
http://zilvia.net/f/suspension/47404...-shop-max.html
or on our site here:
POWERED BY MAX

[huffandpuff00]

^^^How long are these new inners compared to the last pair or pbm inners?

[DC Dan MAX USA]

the length did not change compared to our previous release. the joint changed.

[Johannes]

Hey guys, I have a question. I've been lurking this whole thread for a while now and in the process of modifying my LCA's.

I extended my stock S13 LCA about 10-15mm longer, and was wondering if my stock tension rods would work for now ? If it does, would it give me crazy caster?

Here's what I read from another thread from codyace;

Originally Posted by codyace

.......

Lengthening the LCA will get the job done, but obviously be aware now of tie rod length, as well as Tension rod length as well (and how it can introduce a ton of caster, and bind on the inner bushing) as well (causing more suckage)

.....

Thanks.

[Johannes]

^After thinking about it.....

didn't I keep the mounting points on the tension rod the same?
so it wouldn't affect any adjustments on the tension rod .?
it'll just affect whatever there is after the weld (ball joint, knuckles, camber)?

is this correct?

[mikerbike]

Originally Posted by Matej

Has it been established that the S14 FLCA are 10mm longer?

I have no idea. That's why I quoted the post I quoted.

Originally Posted by My$800S14

if im not mistaken the s14 lca is 17mm longer than the s13 and yes it is between the traction rod and the ball joint

I'm sure somebody somewhere has posted a pic and actual measurements. Possibly in this thread.

Originally Posted by Johannes

I extended my stock S13 LCA about 10-15mm longer, and was wondering if my stock tension rods would work for now ? If it does, would it give me crazy caster?

Since you're extending the control arm outward of the tension rod mount, the tension rod will be the same length as it was before. No significant change in Caster either, since you are moving the ball joint out at pretty close to 90* from where it was.

[TheRealSy90]

He didn't move the tie rod's pick up point though, which is the correct way to extend them.