S13 1UZFE - Street Shark in Progress (vhate)

[Fries]

Yes auto xmember can be used since you're modifying it anyway. You can't really drill and just bring the motor forward, its kind of a pain in the ass.
See what this guy had to do in this thread: 1UZ S13 Coupe Build - Nissan 240SX Forums

I personally think that a $350 driveshaft is worth it because:
A) Less work
B) Better clearance up front for proper radiator fans
C) Weight distribution

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by Fries

Yes auto xmember can be used since you're modifying it anyway. You can't really drill and just bring the motor forward, its kind of a pain in the ass.
See what this guy had to do in this thread: 1UZ S13 Coupe Build - Nissan 240SX Forums

I personally think that a $350 driveshaft is worth it because:
A) Less work
B) Better clearance up front for proper radiator fans
C) Weight distribution

Very true, I would like to run some beefier fans up front, and would really like to get as good of a weight distribution as I can with little work involved.

Now I'm wondering if I can skip getting a manual driveshaft and instead get my auto shaft cut to length, otherwise I'll probably end up getting a one-piece.

Edit: Scratch the auto driveshaft idea. The output shaft is a bigger diameter than the manual, it also has a different spline count and is shorter than the manual. I may just wait and go with an upgraded one-piece.

[badass8]

Subscribed. Gonna need this in the future. Wiring is my main concern once I get my swap rolling as I know NOTHING about wiring...

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by badass8

Subscribed. Gonna need this in the future. Wiring is my main concern once I get my swap rolling as I know NOTHING about wiring...

I'll do a detailed walk-through of the wiring once it gets to that point, but so far it has sounded fairly simple as far as other swaps go.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Old school nismo wheel



Rough layout for baffles/trap doors

[shoguner]

Originally Posted by Panda-Eats-240

Rough layout for baffles/trap doors

Excited for this. i never got around to mine.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Been giving myself a bit of a headache trying to figure out how to remove ALL wiring that's unnecessary, now that the only things I need are gauges, lights, wipers, and pop-up motors. I'm not sure if I want to do a custom/painless kit for ecu/fuel pump/fans/etc, or if it'd be easier to wire it in like factory at this point since I've got everything apart and will be trimming the bundles of wires down.


I'll have to sit down for another couple hours with a FSM and see if I can figure it out, but if anybody knows what the bare essentials of wiring would be in my case, it would be MUCH appreciated! There's a couple little electronic modules in the driver side firewall area that I'm still not sure of, and I'd really like to bypass the messy looking SMJ...

[Panda-Eats-240]

I hit a minor standstill with the project as I quit my job last Thursday due to shitty management expecting me to work for free.

I'm starting this new job in a week or two and will be coming back harder than ever with the extra cash I'll be making. EXPECT TITTIES.

[KevinEdgar]

Looking forward to said "titties"

[Fries]

When it comes time if you want some affordable headers (modified stockers) and an EGR plate, hit up turtle. (http://zilvia.net/f/members/turtle-m3th.html)

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by Fries

When it comes time if you want some affordable headers (modified stockers) and an EGR plate, hit up turtle. (http://zilvia.net/f/members/turtle-m3th.html)

Thanks, that may be the route I go if I don't do custom obx tundra headers.
I acquired a little cash to drop on it.

Getting:
motor mounts ($200)
Wiring harness ($150)
Upper oil pan ($70)

Now I'm a little lost on a couple things.

1. I'm not sure what bolts to get for everything, with the adapter plate and motor/tranny mounts etc. and what I should use new bolts on. (I already have arp flywheel/pressure plate bolts) Also what I should torque everything to. I'd look in the FSM but being a 1uz I figure there's gonna be some different numbers.

2.Tranny dust plate. Do I need it? Iv only got the automatic one laying out in the snow somewhere. Hopefully the auto and manual plates are interchangeable.




I'd just like some input on what some of you would do next in my position. Car is gutted sitting in the garage, 1uz and tranny on the floor next to it. The chassis harness is completely de-lumed and inside the car, I'm not really sure what to do while I wait for parts.

[Fries]

Originally Posted by Panda-Eats-240

Thanks, that may be the route I go if I don't do custom obx tundra headers.
I acquired a little cash to drop on it.

Getting:
motor mounts ($200)
Wiring harness ($150)
Upper oil pan ($70)

Now I'm a little lost on a couple things.

1. I'm not sure what bolts to get for everything, with the adapter plate and motor/tranny mounts etc. and what I should use new bolts on. (I already have arp flywheel/pressure plate bolts) Also what I should torque everything to. I'd look in the FSM but being a 1uz I figure there's gonna be some different numbers.

2.Tranny dust plate. Do I need it? Iv only got the automatic one laying out in the snow somewhere. Hopefully the auto and manual plates are interchangeable.




I'd just like some input on what some of you would do next in my position. Car is gutted sitting in the garage, 1uz and tranny on the floor next to it. The chassis harness is completely de-lumed and inside the car, I'm not really sure what to do while I wait for parts.

$150 is a hell of a deal for the wiring! Good job brother.
You can remove your EGR stuff. turtle will also make the block off plates for you. Here's a website on what you'll be removing. (You cannot buy the plates from here anymore)
http://www.lextreme.com/egr.html

If you buy your mounts and trans adapter from collins performance they will come with the applicable bolts. You'll still need the throwout bearing and pilot bearings.

Start figuring out what you're going to do for fans and powersteering. Fuel lines also. You will need to have your transmission crossmember modified, add 3.5" to the front so you can bolt it up.

I really need to start a build thread.

[JDMcheddar]

Originally Posted by Fries

If you buy your mounts and trans adapter from collins performance they will come with the applicable bolts. You'll still need the throwout bearing and pilot bearings.

Start figuring out what you're going to do for fans and powersteering. Fuel lines also. You will need to have your transmission crossmember modified, add 3.5" to the front so you can bolt it up.

I really need to start a build thread.

With the Collins mounts I was able to move my motor far enough forward I could use my stock transmission mount. I had to do this because of my s14 brake booster hit the valve cover. So you dont have to modify it but it would allow you to move the motor farther back in the bay.

[Fries]

Originally Posted by JDMcheddar

With the Collins mounts I was able to move my motor far enough forward I could use my stock transmission mount. I had to do this because of my s14 brake booster hit the valve cover. So you dont have to modify it but it would allow you to move the motor farther back in the bay.

You modified the mounts though right?
That's pretty weird, mine fits fine and I have the auto brake booster, which is larger.

[JDMcheddar]

I didn't have to modify anything. Just moved the engine as the far forward as the mounts went. I think I might have had bolts in the middle of the mount. Can't remember if I had all four. I do know that I for sure had a stock trans mount.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[Oakville]

That steering wheel is so fresh and so clean...where on earth did you find it?!

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by Fries

$150 is a hell of a deal for the wiring! Good job brother.
You can remove your EGR stuff. turtle will also make the block off plates for you. Here's a website on what you'll be removing. (You cannot buy the plates from here anymore)
http://www.lextreme.com/egr.html

If you buy your mounts and trans adapter from collins performance they will come with the applicable bolts. You'll still need the throwout bearing and pilot bearings.

Start figuring out what you're going to do for fans and powersteering. Fuel lines also. You will need to have your transmission crossmember modified, add 3.5" to the front so you can bolt it up.

I really need to start a build thread.

Sounds like your build thread would help others more than mine, do it :P


I've already got the throwout bearing and pilot bushing (still trying to get that damn pilot bearing out). I didn't get anything through Collin's, i got it through a member here as an almost complete swap package. So I'm on my own for bolts, and still need to figure out what size bolts to install the adapter plate and bell housing with.


-For fans I figure a mishimoto radiator with dual electric fans will work nice.
-For power steering I believe i dont need to change anything, the s13 line fits the 1uz PS pump and theres a little slack to work with after removing the bracket holding the line close to the subframe.


Started removing egr, took my sway bar and rusty old end links out, and getting ready for a quick drop-and-fit once motor mounts get here. Or wait til I have all my bolts so I can mate up the tranny.

Originally Posted by Oakville

That steering wheel is so fresh and so clean...where on earth did you find it?!

Thanks, I actually scooped it up quick here on the forums. I started to cover it with purple suede but failed the first time around, and when I peeled the glue off it withered up the finish a bit. Woopsies. Gonna make a tape template when iv got the chance and try again. Really tricky to do a one piece with such harsh angles for the spokes with a no-stretch material, but it'll be sweet when finished.



Sorry bout the drawn out and scattered thread, waiting for papers to get here so I can be tax return ballin'. Let me know if anyone wants pictures of anything.

[Panda-Eats-240]

$$$$$$$$
TAX RETURN IS HERE

Ordering motor mounts and transmission re-location plates from turtle m3th on Monday if all goes as planned. I'd love to find a good deal on a wiring harness if anyone could help me out on that, be it stock or plug-n-play..



Here are the hard to find adapter plate bolts needed for SR to 1UZ (size M12x1.25 in grade 10.9) - http://www.mrmetric.com/metric-faste...tric-hex-10-9/
I'm still not sure what lengths are needed.
Figure I'll just get 10 of the 60mm. - $22

Ebay upper oil pan - $60
Ebay sr tranny dust plate - $24
Ebay upper intake manifold - $65 (to replace the one that was broken on arrival from shipping and never replaced/refunded. Thanks a lot 'Fidel Cashflo'...)

Looks like it's almost time to start going through the wiring.. this is gonna be a pain

[psi999]

Sick. Good to hear on your progress.

[smoked240]

Awesome build! Love the choice of the 1uz. I live just 2 hours north of you!

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by smoked240

Awesome build! Love the choice of the 1uz. I live just 2 hours north of you!

Awesome, are you planning on going to Brainerd Proving Grounds this summer? If my car is able, I'm definitely going to make it out for my first event ever.

[smoked240]

Originally Posted by Panda-Eats-240

Awesome, are you planning on going to Brainerd Proving Grounds this summer? If my car is able, I'm definitely going to make it out for my first event ever.

I'm going to try! It's only a 3 hour drive from me and goes quick after Detroit lakes when you can cruise haha.

I'll be there with my car, just don't think I'll have it track worthy by then..it will be my first actual event also! I hope I can compete but if not meeting people will be awesome! You gonna go to NHRA this year?

[Panda-Eats-240]

Originally Posted by smoked240

I'm going to try! It's only a 3 hour drive from me and goes quick after Detroit lakes when you can cruise haha.

I'll be there with my car, just don't think I'll have it track worthy by then..it will be my first actual event also! I hope I can compete but if not meeting people will be awesome! You gonna go to NHRA this year?

Yeah my car will need to be running awesome or else I'll need to bring a trailer in case something happens while there. I mostly slide around alone on the streets using good judgement, it'll be nice to get out on a track. I don't think I'll be going to many other events this year as I can't do too much traveling and need to start up school :P



On another note, found a bangin' deal on a 1uz harness. Let's hope it's all intact.

[smoked240]

Originally Posted by Panda-Eats-240

Yeah my car will need to be running awesome or else I'll need to bring a trailer in case something happens while there.it'll be nice to get out on a track. I don't think I'll be going to many other events this year as I can't do too much traveling and need to start up school :P



On another note, found a bangin' deal on a 1uz harness. Let's hope it's all intact.

Yeah that's why if everything works out right ill drive it there but won't slide. If I can get a trailer then I almost have to lol. I'd edited that out, anything on-road illegal is frowned upon here. Kinda like masterbating on an airplane lol.

Nice! Good find. I'm working on re-routing my harness to the trunk! But it's outside in the cold so I only want to freeze my ass off for so long ^.^

[sarhd]

Good info on here. Do a write up on the wiring since that's what I'm about to tackle lol

[Panda-Eats-240]

Just got my motor mounts, tranny plates (to move back a couple inches), and egr block off plates, from turtle m3th


Finally got the bearing out with the wet newspaper method, and started pounding in the bushing

Though I can't get it to press in all the way. Gonna have to pull it out again with the newspaper method and see what's up.

I wanted to see how it was going to look so I lowered it in quick and snapped some pics,
Sittin' pretty



I twisted a couple bolt heads off from the oil pan like a dumbass. Using a ratchet and accidentally switched its rotation while going around the pan quick. So as soon as I get those out I can pull the pan and get it ready for a front sump. Then I can finally f**ing mate the tranny up and actually mock up my mounts.

[Panda-Eats-240]

Alright guys, this has me a little worried. I pulled the oil pan off to find it having this blue fluid in it. Shined a light on it and see its actually green, so it's obviously coolant.

The motor looks pretty clean, and I was told was ~60k miles though it could easily be 200k+... I'm sure it sat for a little while and got moved around, is there any way coolant could make its way to the pan without there being a serious issue?

[psi999]

I've been thnking about this for a good 5 mins now, best i can come up with is if a new rear main seal has been installed while the alloy plate was out some coolant may have run down the back of the block and entered the sump?

Other than that i got nothin'

Engine still turn over by hand if you pull the plugs?

[Def]

That's not coolant. Coolant + oil makes this frothy mess if the engine is run like that (looks like a brown milkshake, or strawberry if the coolant is that pink Toyota long life coolant).

If it hasn't been run, the coolant will obviously not mix with the oil and it'll be very obvious that there is green coolant under the oil.


That said, you're looking at what is probably fairly clean oil that had a greenish tint to it when new. Lots of oil is like that. One that comes to mind is German Castrol Syntec. It looks exactly like that when you put a few miles on it.


Voted definitely not coolant.

[sarhd]

Yeah if it was coolant it would be sludge like and you would be seeing a white tint also