How to classify this rust?

[DKnissanman]

So I just saw this....its behind the back left wheel...only place i see rust....

its pretty bad...paints gone...can and can see it about halfway through the metal....im not sure how rust works...but is it everywhere you think? its only towards the bottom underneath not anywhere visible on the outside...have to get under.


i know its dark

ill take more tomorrow...just saw it before sunset

http://puu.sh/5nteL.jpg

[jr_ss]

How about a better picture...

And as far as it being the "only" rust, I highly doubt that. If that spot is as large as I think it is, there's more than a good chance you have more...

[DKnissanman]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

How about a better picture...

And as far as it being the "only" rust, I highly doubt that. If that spot is as large as I think it is, there's more than a good chance you have more...

large as you think it is? i mean ill get more pictures

but its about 5x 5 inches

only there i can see...so flaky to. its basically where im guessing something got behind the wheels...but im in tennessee so salt wouldn't ever be an issue and its a 98 so i dont know..i just bough it last week so i guess its my luck.

[shiftdrift]

i can see it fine. it's larger than you can see, yes, it will need cut out and replaced with fresh metal, or a donor car section, if i were you i would grind about 3" around the area you can "see" the rust and check if that's good metal, as it WILL be rusted farther out than you can see. it's a pretty straight forward project if you are good with body work, if not a shop should be able to do it for 3-500.

[DKnissanman]

Originally Posted by shiftdrift

i can see it fine. it's larger than you can see, yes, it will need cut out and replaced with fresh metal, or a donor car section, if i were you i would grind about 3" around the area you can "see" the rust and check if that's good metal, as it WILL be rusted farther out than you can see. it's a pretty straight forward project if you are good with body work, if not a shop should be able to do it for 3-500.

please tell me 300-500 includes the repaint?

ha

[DKnissanman]

its worse than i thought, theres surface rust beneath where i couldnt see at night

pictures coming.

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by DKnissanman

im not sure how rust works

Ask and ye shall receiveth: http://www.howstuffworks.com/question445.htm



Word to the wise... If there is rust there to that degree, there will be rust in many other inconvenient & expensive to fix (if you don't know how to do it yourself) places. I bought a rusted-out 240 before my current build... The more rust I found, the more I uncovered... Before too long, it was obvious that making the car rust-free without the know-how to fix it myself would cost me more time & money than the aggregate value of 3 ratty but rust-free S13's... Pick your battles.

[DKnissanman]

Please be serius, here ais the whole thing

complete left side bottom nothing visible anywhere else...door panels...frames...etc...some bolts...

http://puu.sh/5oDdI.jpg

under bumper by left wheel
http://puu.sh/5oDcZ.jpg

is this big metal piece suppose to protect from debris?

http://puu.sh/5oDc1.jpg

it isnt threw but man is it covered.

[Reece]

I'd kill to have that little rust. Lol.

Right now it only looks like surface rust. Sand it off, put some body filler on it, and repaint it. You should be fine, unless it starts to eat through. Then I'd cut it off and weld on new metal.

[mechanicalmoron]

Wire-wheel all the rust off, and seal it. For the visible rust, as reece said, you can fill it, since it's not all the way through.

Just get some rustoleum and go to town on any you find on the underside. And take off the paint for a little ways out from any that's bubbling paint, it can creep under fine looking paint, and bubble up a little bit farther on.

[Def]

Wire wheel, rust reformer (naval jelly - don't forget this step), then repaint. Should be fine. That one pic looks like a heat shield for the cat which is no big deal.

If you just wirewheel then paint it'll come back in about 6-12 months even worse. But naval jelly/rust reformer will transform the remaining rust to a stable form of iron oxide and stop it from spreading.

[DKnissanman]

Originally Posted by Def

Wire wheel, rust reformer (naval jelly - don't forget this step), then repaint. Should be fine. That one pic looks like a heat shield for the cat which is no big deal.

If you just wirewheel then paint it'll come back in about 6-12 months even worse. But naval jelly/rust reformer will transform the remaining rust to a stable form of iron oxide and stop it from spreading.

do you have a thread link?

i got a wire brush, not wheel

then what comes after?

1.brush
2. put rustoleum on
3. put jelly?
4. get shop to repaint?


also its bubbling on one place, should i brush it off, or get a razor blade and scrape it?


guessing ill need a mask for this since paint contains lead no?

[crzsteveo]

sounds to me like you need to tackle this with someone who has an idea what to do.

get rid of any rust you see. if you don't, itll come back to bite you in the ass.

I left a quarter size rust spot on my daily on the lower rear quarter panel, and now its a few inches bigger. all in 1.5 years.

[DKnissanman]

Originally Posted by crzsteveo

sounds to me like you need to tackle this with someone who has an idea what to do.

get rid of any rust you see. if you don't, itll come back to bite you in the ass.

I left a quarter size rust spot on my daily on the lower rear quarter panel, and now its a few inches bigger. all in 1.5 years.

thanks, thats all i need

its no hard task, just i cant paint, and clear coat will be troublesome since ive never dealt with that either

gonna use this guide

How to Repair Surface Rust on Your Car | Fix Rust Spots on Your Car | Gearhead Diva


seems simple enough

[DKnissanman]

1. get wire brush
2. scrape all rust till bare metal is seen..healthy metal
3. spray the rust you cant see with some rust converter...ust-Mort and Corroseal?
4. when it dries, sand the rust off
5. apply bondo to deep pockets
6. not sure if i can apply a under coating..rubber? this is where i get confused.

7. add primer...not sure which...rustoleum?

8. get shop to paint.

please help with 6 onward, not sure if its correct

[Def]

Originally Posted by DKnissanman

do you have a thread link?

i got a wire brush, not wheel

then what comes after?

1.brush
2. put rustoleum on
3. put jelly?
4. get shop to repaint?


also its bubbling on one place, should i brush it off, or get a razor blade and scrape it?


guessing ill need a mask for this since paint contains lead no?

Get a wire wheel for a drill, you'll kill yourself trying to actually remove enough rust by hand. They're like $3 at harbor freight.

Then clean area with degreaser and put on naval jelly/rust reformer (you can find it at Walmart in the auto paint section). Wait like 45-90 mins, clean off residue.

Degrease again.

acid etching primer, then paint.

For the under carriage, you could acid etch primer then undercoat I suppose.

[Frank_Jaeger]

Por15 is magic.

[DKnissanman]

Originally Posted by Def

Get a wire wheel for a drill, you'll kill yourself trying to actually remove enough rust by hand. They're like $3 at harbor freight.

Then clean area with degreaser and put on naval jelly/rust reformer (you can find it at Walmart in the auto paint section). Wait like 45-90 mins, clean off residue.

Degrease again.

acid etching primer, then paint.

For the under carriage, you could acid etch primer then undercoat I suppose.

what do i do about the heat shield? its already bare metal, can i prime that or just clean it up and put some rust reformer and leave it?

[DKnissanman]

Originally Posted by Frank_Jaeger

Por15 is magic.

what exactly is it? a primer...undercoat? i mean or can i get everything all in one?

[DKnissanman]

Originally Posted by Def

Get a wire wheel for a drill, you'll kill yourself trying to actually remove enough rust by hand. They're like $3 at harbor freight.

Then clean area with degreaser and put on naval jelly/rust reformer (you can find it at Walmart in the auto paint section). Wait like 45-90 mins, clean off residue.

Degrease again.

acid etching primer, then paint.

For the under carriage, you could acid etch primer then undercoat I suppose.

any good degreaser?

so degrease with wire

put on some por 15?

wait till dry and clean off, then put clear coat?

do you reccomend any clear coat?

[Def]

Originally Posted by DKnissanman

what do i do about the heat shield? its already bare metal, can i prime that or just clean it up and put some rust reformer and leave it?

Don't paint the heatshield, it'll burn off.

Just wire wheel it (rust will come back) or get a new one.

[DKnissanman]

Originally Posted by Def

Don't paint the heatshield, it'll burn off.

Just wire wheel it (rust will come back) or get a new one.

ah ok...that is...the cat heat shield no? its so big...im guessing one is gonna cost 300 plus

bolted on or welded?

this thing:

http://puu.sh/5oDc1.jpg

thats the left side of it.... yes i see the bolts but is that all?

[DKnissanman]

Originally Posted by quandtrtle

it's a pretty straight forward project if you are good with body work

well if an 18 year old who got a 240 and is pretty determined counts then im all for it...thats where i cant really get anyone...either it cost out the ass or they dont have time, thats why im trying to learn and do it myself.


its only underneath anyway, not like its gonna ruin its appearance...unless i found it everywhere


im gonna get under today and poke it all with a screw drver and see what i notice...wish me luck

[crzsteveo]

it should be a easy project. just get rid of the heat shield.

It would probably be in your interest to sell the car. you are going to experience a hell of a lot more problems then just some surface rust down the road.

[Reece]

Originally Posted by crzsteveo

It would probably be in your interest to sell the car. you are going to experience a hell of a lot more problems then just some surface rust down the road.

I hope you're kidding... That rust isn't even bad at all. You'd scream if you saw some Midwest 240s and their rust.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by DKnissanman

ah ok...that is...the cat heat shield no? its so big...im guessing one is gonna cost 300 plus

bolted on or welded?

this thing:

http://puu.sh/5oDc1.jpg

thats the left side of it.... yes i see the bolts but is that all?

That's the heat shield for the stock muffler. Since you don't have it anymore just unbolt it and put the bolts back in to prevent rust and water intrusion into the trunk.

All it's doing as acting as a drum right now with the aftermarket exhaust.

[DKnissanman]

Originally Posted by S14DB

That's the heat shield for the stock muffler. Since you don't have it anymore just unbolt it and put the bolts back in to prevent rust and water intrusion into the trunk.

All it's doing as acting as a drum right now with the aftermarket exhaust.

ok, so with the aftermarket one, its not blocking heat at all...so taking it off wouldn't make it get say hotter?


ok i will, just leave it off then, but should i replace it with something smaller...?

[gtd2000]

Sometimes a little bit of rust can be a hell of a lot more...this is a great example...

Lancia Y10 1.3 GTIe - Looks like a weld-a-thon...

[mechanicalmoron]

Dude, stop worrying about the heat shield, it has almost no rust at all on it, it's just meant to baffle heat before it gets to your ass.

It was originally galvanized, and mostly still is. All that matters is you have something there, and that it doesn't rust up into the floor of the car. You can spray some engine paint on it if you want, though it may still smoke off.

Worry about the rust on the actual chassis, before it gets bad enough to need fresh metal welded in. Fix it now, while it's just a bondo job.

And as you seem confused, por15 is undercoat shit, not what you want for visible places. You want a super clean surface, any filler that you're going to use, a primer, and then (within the time the primer gives - usually you have a window from like 4-24 hours) paint. Or, even just rust paint, would be lots better than nothing. (and don't even think about leaving just bondo on it - bondo is like a sponge, and will hold in water. It must be painted once it's fully cured.)