The fabrication thread.

[blu808]

Here are some shots of a C6 Zo6 exhaust I started making tonight.





I actually put all the straight sections in the lathe and turn down each end till it is perfectly beveled and even. Makes for some incredible welding.

[blu808]

Started making an H pipe. Notching the tubing on the Milling machine is the way to go.

[Om1kron]

not my welds, but on my valve cover.

the fittings that turned brown had a hard anodizing on them I only had one -8 weld on fitting, the rest were stupid -8 - 3/8th npt fittings that baker performance had in stock, second time I went there they didn't have shit I wanted. I'll stick with anplumbing in the future.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

the fittings that turned brown had a hard anodizing on them I only had one -8 weld on fitting, the rest were stupid -8 - 3/8th npt fittings that baker performance had in stock, second time I went there they didn't have shit I wanted. I'll stick with anplumbing in the future.

I get all of my AN stuff from Summit and/or Jegs. Between the two, they always have the Earls fittings I need in stock.

[Om1kron]

Yeah it's rare I ever DRIVE to pick these things up, I just wanted to get everything I needed to my fab dude since -10 is what I originally was going to put on the back of the hump but that's too big a hose for the drainback into the block.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

I get all of my AN stuff from Summit and/or Jegs. Between the two, they always have the Earls fittings I need in stock.

Earl's store 1 in Hawthorne (been there for almost 40 years) will beat Summit/Jegs, and Tom is an awesome dude. I almost always go through him.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Yeah it's rare I ever DRIVE to pick these things up, I just wanted to get everything I needed to my fab dude since -10 is what I originally was going to put on the back of the hump but that's too big a hose for the drainback into the block.

I don't know, I used -10 on all of mine!?! Are you talking about the fitting on the rear drivers side of the block right under the head?

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

I don't know, I used -10 on all of mine!?! Are you talking about the fitting on the rear drivers side of the block right under the head?

Yee! that's the one. a -8 (1/2) hose fits it perfectly, -10 (5/8) is probably slightly too big but then again I have an s13 motor, I don't know if the drainback from the valve cover on an s14 motor is larger.



temporary valve cover until my hybrid cover is painted and I get some of those sweet bolts like yours. =)

[ManoNegra]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Earl's store 1 in Hawthorne (been there for almost 40 years) will beat Summit/Jegs, and Tom is an awesome dude. I almost always go through him.

I was in a bind a while ago and needed a PS line replacement ASAP
he ended up charging me more than what was advertised on Earl's site
would have rather bought the line or parts online had I had the option

been there a few times and it's always been that way
just a bit more than online
but *shrug* sometimes you just can't wait

[RPSil13]

quick question to you guys on here, im making a seat bracket and need to bend form 1x1/4 steel, whats the best way to do it other than a press? ive seen people put it in a vise and heat it but idk how safe that is?

[duffman1278]

Originally Posted by RPSil13

quick question to you guys on here, im making a seat bracket and need to bend form 1x1/4 steel, whats the best way to do it other than a press? ive seen people put it in a vise and heat it but idk how safe that is?

If you have an oxy-actelyene setup than you can do it easily. Just heat it up and let it get orange and you should be able to bend it with some pliers and just a little bit of man power.

If you're concerned about the integrity of the steel from being bent and heated, just reheat it till its orange again and quench it in water.

But it's safe, you shouldn't have any issues.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by duffman1278

If you have an oxy-actelyene setup than you can do it easily. Just heat it up and let it get orange and you should be able to bend it with some pliers and just a little bit of man power.

If you're concerned about the integrity of the steel from being bent and heated, just reheat it till its orange again and quench it in water.

But it's safe, you shouldn't have any issues.

Agree. Plenty safe.

My question is why mess with 1/4" steel? ~1/8" is what Wedge uses for their brackets, and what I've always used. You trying to make a 20lb seat bracket or what?

[duffman1278]

^^^^ lol Factor of Safety yo!! of like 100!! He's right though, 1/4" is freakin beastly, and mad overkill.

[2point0]

Originally Posted by blu808

Wish, I had your skills.

[RPSil13]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Agree. Plenty safe.

My question is why mess with 1/4" steel? ~1/8" is what Wedge uses for their brackets, and what I've always used. You trying to make a 20lb seat bracket or what?

i have wedge brackets on there right now, but they sit way too high, i took a micrometer to them and it was 3/16s, so i figured its like wood, were the actual measurement is a bit smaller like a 2x4 is actually 1 7/8 x 3 7/8, im new to metal

thanks for the info guys ill look in to a torch and some 1/8 steel,

[dorramide7]

Originally Posted by punxva

Luke you've nailed it on the head, there needs to be more informative posts on zilvia, and this is a step in the right direction.

Subscribed

love this thread idea..this is coming from someone who will be getting into fab very soon.

might i add that perhaps some details on what techniques were used to fab. ie, what equipment was used to bend tubing, what was used for mockups, what type of welding, what equipment was used for welding, etc..

just a though for us fab wannabes.

+1 for unique thread idea.

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[silhou]

few random shots from work lately

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by ManoNegra

I was in a bind a while ago and needed a PS line replacement ASAP
he ended up charging me more than what was advertised on Earl's site
would have rather bought the line or parts online had I had the option

been there a few times and it's always been that way
just a bit more than online
but *shrug* sometimes you just can't wait

Get and bend soft steel for the hardlines.

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by silhou

few random shots from work lately

On the mig weld what process do u do to get a weld like that?

[duffman1278]

Is that MIG'd? Looks TIG'd. If it's TIG'd how many amps did you run for that?

[blu808]

Wow. Nice welds. def TIG.

Here are some custom Blu808 control arms I made today.

[Anthony@Chaser]

We finished the plug for the miata roof wing


And also built the mold.


Upper Half

Lower Half


We are going to start popping wings out this week!!

I also put together a little blog for our projects.
ChaserGarage.com | Custom work and Fabrication at Chaser Aerodynamics, LLC.

Anthony

[240 GTR]

cage i just knocked out in a week and a half for my car. 1.5 x .095 DOM tubing, built per the 2010 FD rulebook

[Sleepy_Steve]

Nice cage.

Also, totally didn't make the connection about Chaser being local to MD till I saw the newish 1812 anniversary tag on the miata. Roof spoiler thing looks good.

[silhou]

Originally Posted by duffman1278

Is that MIG'd? Looks TIG'd. If it's TIG'd how many amps did you run for that?

the mild steel drill bit is mig. welding with flux core @ 350 amps. weaving the weld for that look. the aluminum is tig @ 300 amps, pre heated material to 350 degrees.

also got bored and made a bash bar for my car. gonna add some 45 angles on the ends to extend to the fenders tomorrow.

[godrifttoday]

[Steve Lloyd]

Originally Posted by 240 GTR

cage i just knocked out in a week and a half for my car. 1.5 x .095 DOM tubing, built per the 2010 FD rulebook

Sorry, but that cage isn't built to FD specs, the rear bars have to tie into the rear frame, no more strut tower connections for the rear bars. Found that out at Irwindale........

[blu808]

Who told you that? My roll cage goes to the rear towers and passed tech at Irwindale.

[thefro526]

Originally Posted by Steve Lloyd

Sorry, but that cage isn't built to FD specs, the rear bars have to tie into the rear frame, no more strut tower connections for the rear bars. Found that out at Irwindale........

Originally Posted by blu808

Who told you that? My roll cage goes to the rear towers and passed tech at Irwindale.

I'm with Blu808 on this one, I know three local guys (Miro and the Tuerck brothers) that went out to Pro-Am and their cages are tied to the rear strut towers.

Here's a shot of Miro's car, he placed 3rd in Pro-Am I believe.

[conrad_s13.5]

he might just be confused.
they can tie into the strut tower,...not the strut tower bar