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Old 12-31-2009, 02:34 PM   #61
clark
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for daily driving, what psi do you run on a normal basis for tire pressure?

just curious, i always experiment but there's guys on here that know alot more than me

my tire sizes are 235/45/17 rear, 225/45/17 front.
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:48 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clark View Post
for daily driving, what psi do you run on a normal basis for tire pressure?

just curious, i always experiment but there's guys on here that know alot more than me

my tire sizes are 235/45/17 rear, 225/45/17 front.
On my 235/45/17 I run 45psi. But you should run what your tire says.


And My question is will s13 sway bars fit on a s14??
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:53 PM   #63
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how do you guys install the oversized rear fenders. It looks like pop-rivets but I havent seen a picture up close to verify! oh yeah S13 hatch
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:56 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clark View Post
for daily driving, what psi do you run on a normal basis for tire pressure?

just curious, i always experiment but there's guys on here that know alot more than me

my tire sizes are 235/45/17 rear, 225/45/17 front.
I believe it also depends on if the tires are stretched and how extreme the stretch is. If the tires are only lightly stretched or not at all, 35-40 psi should be just fine.
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:59 PM   #65
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how do you guys install the oversized rear fenders. It looks like pop-rivets but I havent seen a picture up close to verify! oh yeah S13 hatch
You can mold, rivet, or screw them on. The most common method is riveting them to the body.
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Old 12-31-2009, 03:02 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by S13Teddy View Post
You can mold, rivet, or screw them on. The most common method is riveting them to the body.
Next question then, Rivets rust! Do you guys use a different type of rivets, if there is a such? and if you mold it, you still have to have a way to attach them to the car correct?
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Old 12-31-2009, 03:08 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by DreamN View Post
Good idea for a thread.

Alright, I've got one that I simply just haven't gotten around to really looking into much.

Once in awhile when I switch the wipers on it simply gets stuck in the on position. Not the switch itself, as I'll put it in the off position and the wipers will still keep going.

It's not the switch as I've tried 3. To my knowledge I haven't messed with the wiring concerning the wipers.

Any ideas where I should be checking first to fix this small, but irritating issue.
It sounds like there are some bad connections at your wiper motor. The wiper arms will continue to operate until they reach the base. When the switch is set to off and the arms are parked, then the wiper motor terminals 1 and 2 are connected instead of terminals 1 and 6.
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Old 12-31-2009, 04:25 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XnTroubleX View Post
Next question then, Rivets rust! Do you guys use a different type of rivets, if there is a such? and if you mold it, you still have to have a way to attach them to the car correct?
get aluminum rivets they sell them at home depot and places like that..

dont forget you need to cut out your quarter panels to clearance the wheel/tire and seal them together so water doesnt come in
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Old 12-31-2009, 04:52 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stinky_180 View Post
is a press, or any special tool, required to remove and replace the center bearing on the driveshaft?
no, just make sure you follow the FSMs directions pretty sure you have to grease it

Quote:
Originally Posted by S14_Kouki View Post
On my 235/45/17 I run 45psi. But you should run what your tire says.


And My question is will s13 sway bars fit on a s14??
IIRC S13/14 front are the same however the rears are different
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Old 12-31-2009, 07:00 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monooxide View Post
I made 273WHP and 280WTQ with my S14 SR on Stock injectors, MAFS, ECU, Intake Manifold and Turbo with bolt-ons. Boost decreased to ~12 PSI towards redline with a 12.4 AFR.

Dyno'd on a Dynapack 4000.
Wow, I only made 254whp on my S14 SR20 with S15 injectors and emanage on ~15-16psi. I had stock everything minus injectors, turbo manifold, 3" elbow/down pipe, and 2.5" trust DD exhaust. My AFR was probably around 10.5-11ish....so piss rich so I could beat on it safely.



Quote:
Originally Posted by s0apgun View Post
fun fact: ka SOHC maf can be used if sr MAF is not available
This is true for S13 SRs, but there is no US equiovlent for the S14 SR20 MAF. The SOHC MAF plug will work on the zenki (red WC) S14 SR MAF, but the S14 MAF is a 3 prong MAF and the SOHC MAF is a 4 prong MAF.
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Old 12-31-2009, 07:12 PM   #71
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one of my stupid questions (i have a lot)
but i tried to google/search but couldn't find any answers/diagrams/how-to's/etc.

what is the "proper" way of installing navan side skirts on a s14?

there are two holes in the front for the fender lining so I can just drill two holes in the front of the skirts.
do I do the same for the rear of the skirts and drill two or more holes into the rear quarter panel?

and besides double sided tape, is there anything need to be done on lower side of the skirts where it meets the underside of the car. if you look at the inside of the skirt, there are a number of brackets running along the length of the skirt. is this just for structural rigidity or is something actually supposed to attach to the brackets?

last part of this =x looking at my neighbors corolla with the S aero, it just seems to be attached with double sided tape on the sides and screwed in on the underside of the vehicle. the navan also has a couple holes on the underside, is this supposedly to be screwed into the chassis as well?


yah total nub questions regarding body kits or just general DIY stuff but i'm a total nub and i just wanted to do it right the first time =x

thanks in advance! and happy NYE!
hope everyone has a happy and safe one =)
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Old 12-31-2009, 07:53 PM   #72
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I ran two screws in the front fender, a single self tapping screw on the rear fender and at one point I ran two big screws up through the random small brackets on the underside of the car. I also ran double sided tape on the two flat parts of the skirts that meet the fenders.

In Japan they're held one with a series of clips like US kouki side skirts. You would have to drill holes in the body of your car and buy the 8 dollar a piece clips (I think there are 8 on each side). You can see the holes in the side of my car:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2501/...c27613f7_b.jpg

The yellow things are part of the clip, they slide in and out so some stuck with the side skirts when I took them off.




A zip tie up front and back and some double sided tape will be perfectly fine though.
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Old 12-31-2009, 10:13 PM   #73
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My small question....

Would it cost much less to piece together your own EARLS stainless steel lines and fittings along with nismo fpr or would it be better to just go ahead and buy:


Border Fuel Delivery Pipe Kit PS13 S14 S15 SR20 - RHDJapan
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Old 01-01-2010, 09:46 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14_Kouki View Post
But you should run what your tire says.
you should NOT run what your tire says. that's the max allowable pressure. you should run what your car (usually on the tag on the door jamb)or owner's manual says. if you're running extreme stretched tires, some higher target is better, as stated, but the pressure on the tire is still the just max.
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:54 AM   #75
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Okay I have a 6 BOLT VLSD in my car, and I have a open diff gear that I want to replace the VLSD with.

So my question is, will my S13 open diff fit into the 6 bolt VLSD's pumpkin?
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Old 01-01-2010, 12:11 PM   #76
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Okay I have a 6 BOLT VLSD in my car, and I have a open diff gear that I want to replace the VLSD with.

So my question is, will my S13 open diff fit into the 6 bolt VLSD's pumpkin?
it will fit but you need matching output shafts
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Old 01-01-2010, 01:41 PM   #77
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you should NOT run what your tire says. that's the max allowable pressure. you should run what your car (usually on the tag on the door jamb)or owner's manual says. if you're running extreme stretched tires, some higher target is better, as stated, but the pressure on the tire is still the just max.
I have to disagree on that. If you go from a 215 up to a 235 your not going to inflate the tire with the same psi. If you have 24's on rubber band tires then NO you will not inflate the tire to the psi for a STOCK wheel/tire set-up. So NO, you will not use what the car says. The psi that is on the tag on the car is for stock rims and stock tires. So just like I said, you go by whats on the tire. Unless I guess if they are super stretched.
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Old 01-01-2010, 02:01 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo View Post
This is true for S13 SRs, but there is no US equiovlent for the S14 SR20 MAF. The SOHC MAF plug will work on the zenki (red WC) S14 SR MAF, but the S14 MAF is a 3 prong MAF and the SOHC MAF is a 4 prong MAF.
Ok, if SOHC MAF and S13 SR MAF are the same, and my S13 SR MAF plug is no good, I can use a SOHC MAF plug to replace it, correct?
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Old 01-01-2010, 02:18 PM   #79
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Ok, if SOHC MAF and S13 SR MAF are the same, and my S13 SR MAF plug is no good, I can use a SOHC MAF plug to replace it, correct?
no, s13 SR is 4wire plug, SOHC is 3wire plug
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:00 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by bboyoracle View Post
My small question....

Would it cost much less to piece together your own EARLS stainless steel lines and fittings along with nismo fpr or would it be better to just go ahead and buy:


Border Fuel Delivery Pipe Kit PS13 S14 S15 SR20 - RHDJapan

whoaaa $900 for that stuff??? geez...

i've seen the work you've done to your car bboyoracle..you're more than capable of piecing this together yourself...DEFINITLY piece together your own lines and fittings AN plumbing is really cheap for what it is. and if you're gonna go all out, might as well just do it all...

i say aeromotive or aem FPR, a fuel pressure gauge like a marshall unit, fuel rail adapter (check ebay) to make a clean conversion to AN. you can totally do all of that for less than $400 PLUS you'll learn how to assemble AN lines and fittings. it seems -6AN is the common size for fuel setups.

also you don't have to just go earls...summit and jegs carry aeroquip, russel and even their own brand..they even have cool black anodized hose ends/fittings now.
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:49 PM   #81
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cool thread bro.

how much lower does an rb25 oil pan sit compared to an sr? in s13/s14
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Old 01-01-2010, 04:28 PM   #82
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I've searched around quite a bit and i can't seem to find anything, maybe someone can point me in the right direction. Basically i'm just wondering if they make stock body fiberglass front fenders for s13's??? since i can't find anything i'm guess probably not, but i figured someone on here would know, and if they don't make them what are the smallest fronts i can get???
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Old 01-01-2010, 05:21 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clark View Post
whoaaa $900 for that stuff??? geez...

i've seen the work you've done to your car bboyoracle..you're more than capable of piecing this together yourself...DEFINITLY piece together your own lines and fittings AN plumbing is really cheap for what it is. and if you're gonna go all out, might as well just do it all...

i say aeromotive or aem FPR, a fuel pressure gauge like a marshall unit, fuel rail adapter (check ebay) to make a clean conversion to AN. you can totally do all of that for less than $400 PLUS you'll learn how to assemble AN lines and fittings. it seems -6AN is the common size for fuel setups.

also you don't have to just go earls...summit and jegs carry aeroquip, russel and even their own brand..they even have cool black anodized hose ends/fittings now.

My mind goes blank when I see all the different options when it comes to fittings, hoses, sizing etc. lol I might just go ahead and piece it together myself just so I can learn. Thanks for the info!
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Old 01-01-2010, 05:26 PM   #84
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cool thread bro.

how much lower does an rb25 oil pan sit compared to an sr? in s13/s14
anyone? i thought yall would know this shit
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Old 01-01-2010, 05:41 PM   #85
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It sounds like there are some bad connections at your wiper motor. The wiper arms will continue to operate until they reach the base. When the switch is set to off and the arms are parked, then the wiper motor terminals 1 and 2 are connected instead of terminals 1 and 6.
Thanks, I'll definitely look into that.
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Old 01-01-2010, 05:55 PM   #86
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I understand that primer is not a good idea as it is porous and therefore it absorbs moisture, is this true?

When I bought my rx7 it was primer and it absorbed moisture like a sponge.
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Old 01-01-2010, 06:56 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakob View Post
is there a way to keep the inner fender guards, while rolling the fender and lowering the car?

i would not really want to remove it, because all the dirt and shit will fly inside my fender/door/engine bay

btw: great thread!
if your lowering it, no way you can keep the ENTIRE fender lining.
you can cut it where at the bottom to keep debris from going into your door.

if you want a pic of how i did it,
PM and ill post it in here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by derek_s13 View Post
if you roll the fender, the plastic won't be able to clip into the factory holes.

also, if you lower the car until it rubs the plastic guards, there will be absolutely no need to roll your fenders because it won't be very low at all.

what he said.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:26 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14_Kouki View Post
I have to disagree on that. If you go from a 215 up to a 235 your not going to inflate the tire with the same psi. If you have 24's on rubber band tires then NO you will not inflate the tire to the psi for a STOCK wheel/tire set-up. So NO, you will not use what the car says. The psi that is on the tag on the car is for stock rims and stock tires. So just like I said, you go by whats on the tire. Unless I guess if they are super stretched.
i still disagree, but this isn't really the place for the debate. if you change stuff, sure, the tire pressure could change, but the number on the tire is still the max. they have no idea what wheel or car you're running on, they're just telling you at what point it might explode.
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Old 01-01-2010, 08:14 PM   #89
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you got to stretch the metal with body hammers use the fender roller and body filler to smooth it out

some durablocks with different shapes will get it like that
+1

here it is again, I need a way to practice this.

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Old 01-01-2010, 09:53 PM   #90
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oohh thanks for answering soap.


*high five*
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