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Old 12-30-2009, 05:50 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdlong View Post
i don't see why not. that's assuming people search before they post.

i've got a dumb one that i've seen conflicting and incomplete answers for.
what's the ID and max power levels of the common MAFS s13, s14, N60, N62, Q45 (P60?)? throw in more if you know them.

s13 - 260hp - mm
s14 - 260hp - mm
I made 273WHP and 280WTQ with my S14 SR on Stock injectors, MAFS, ECU, Intake Manifold and Turbo with bolt-ons. Boost decreased to ~12 PSI towards redline with a 12.4 AFR.

Dyno'd on a Dynapack 4000.
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Old 12-30-2009, 05:55 PM   #32
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wheel or crank?

i'm going to edit my post as i get more info.
sorry, wheel
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Old 12-30-2009, 05:56 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monooxide View Post
I made 273WHP and 280WTQ with my S14 SR on Stock injectors, MAFS, ECU, Intake Manifold and Turbo with bolt-ons. Boost decreased to ~12 PSI towards redline with a 12.4 AFR.

Dyno'd on a Dynapack 4000.
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Old 12-30-2009, 06:02 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stinky_180 View Post
i recently installed gr+ coilovers on my s13 and it is pretty low (not slammed though). my good 'ole jack can no longer slide under the frame rails! what jacks do you guys use for your lowered vehicles? using my emergency/spare tire jack to lift the car just enough to fit the floor jack under is such a pain in the ass. so what do you use? how much was it? where did you buy it? how do you like it? one more thing, has anybody used those wheel ramps successfully on a lowered s13?
just use your tow hooks in the front to jack it up. Their high strength steel and sit higher than the frame rails.

best bet is to just invest in a good low-profile jack. Well worth the money compared to screwing around with extra steps like ramps, etc.
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Old 12-30-2009, 06:20 PM   #35
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for those who tuck there tires
do you take out the fender liner?
if so how do you take out the the back? cause its metal my car keeps rubbing its annoying
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Old 12-30-2009, 06:28 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by s0apgun View Post
I don't know what you're implying but from experience directly from the owner of the dynos. We have dyno'd on the Dynapacks and driven to a Dynojet and made 7 more WHP with his test car on the same day within a few hours from another. For what it's worth it was a ~3% difference.
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:05 PM   #37
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for those who tuck there tires
do you take out the fender liner?
if so how do you take out the the back? cause its metal my car keeps rubbing its annoying
rip it out, i think theres only a small one on the back

if its rubbing anywhere else hammer it
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:59 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monooxide View Post
I made 273WHP and 280WTQ with my S14 SR on Stock injectors, MAFS, ECU, Intake Manifold and Turbo with bolt-ons. Boost decreased to ~12 PSI towards redline with a 12.4 AFR.

Dyno'd on a Dynapack 4000.
is that a s14 KA MAF or SR? is there a difference? is there a code for each, n60, n62, etc.?
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Old 12-30-2009, 08:01 PM   #39
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cool thread,

when setting the fuel pressure on my SR i take the vac line off, set to 43, put vac line on and it about 35. is that correct?
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Old 12-30-2009, 08:12 PM   #40
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OK. So I've got Tanabe Pro-Seven coils on my S13 in the rear. I wanted to lower it more, but there is a little plug on the bottom that doesn't allow me to keep moving the rings up. Someone told me that these are supposed to have an electronic control? Anyone know? Thanks.
Anyone know?
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Old 12-30-2009, 08:12 PM   #41
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another quick 'stupid' question:

i just picked up a 96 ka transmission to replacemy extremely worn-out one. the one i picked up has the CAS on the bell housing. i can remove it(not use it) since im mating the transmission to a SOHC, right?
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:21 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdlong View Post
is that a s14 KA MAF or SR? is there a difference? is there a code for each, n60, n62, etc.?
S14 SR and I'd imagine they're different.
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:08 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by DreamN View Post
Good idea for a thread.

Alright, I've got one that I simply just haven't gotten around to really looking into much.

Once in awhile when I switch the wipers on it simply gets stuck in the on position. Not the switch itself, as I'll put it in the off position and the wipers will still keep going.

It's not the switch as I've tried 3. To my knowledge I haven't messed with the wiring concerning the wipers.

Any ideas where I should be checking first to fix this small, but irritating issue.
I have the same issue too but havent been able to pinpoint it. i'm guessing it might be a relay or somethin?? i dunno

btw thanks to those who replied to my question..i guess its not a big difference which one you choose then huh? i don't wanna be super quiet but i also don't wanna be loud as hell like a harley lol
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:36 AM   #44
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Hello gentlemen.

i am in the process of doing a bunch of bodywork to my car at the moment, its a long process but i have to leave my car outside. Its also going to be a few months before it gets painted. So here is my question, what paint can i get (in a can) that will protect my car from rust? I need something that will not chemically react with the actual paint that will be applied later. I understand that primer is not a good idea as it is porous and therefore it absorbs moisture, is this true?

Thanks! all info is greatly appreciated!
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:41 AM   #45
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Rust-Oleum!
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:51 AM   #46
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which rustoleum products?

it appears they have epoxy, lacquer acrylic, enamel, water based paints...

they also offer an automotive primer, would this protect against moisture?
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Old 12-31-2009, 01:17 AM   #47
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A few years ago when I took off the factory spoiler and filled the holes I sanded the trunk to bare metal and spraypainted it with Rust-Oleum. My roof is also painted with it. Just this regular kind:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=24

It's just one coat, with no clear or anything, and it's been through rain and snow pleny of times since, with no problems. I use it on everything, because I have rust-phobia when it comes to my car.
They also have a 'Professional' 'High Performance' line, with most of the colors:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95

Recently I found out that the nearby Lowe's carries all of the colors, so I have switched to using the 'High Performance' enamel, which I'm assuming should be even better, although I don't have any complaints about the regular one. I even used it to cover the rust on my rocker panel years ago, and it still hasn't shown through, haha.
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Old 12-31-2009, 01:28 AM   #48
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Hello,

I may also be in the process of doing a bunch of bodywork to my possible future car. Is there a proper method, per say, to remove molded aero? Sand down the filler material until the aero is exposed => Source the method used to secure the aero => Remove?

-Yuta

P.S. Yuta, thank you for asking a question I was wondering about a few hours ago.
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Old 12-31-2009, 05:58 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdlong View Post
is that a s14 KA MAF or SR? is there a difference? is there a code for each, n60, n62, etc.?
KA and SR MAF are indeed different however the readout on them is only different ~10 hp

Quote:
Originally Posted by dahveed View Post
Anyone know?
pro sevens have the optional use for the electronic control by tanabe called TEAS i think so yes that would be why

Quote:
Originally Posted by stinky_180 View Post
another quick 'stupid' question:

i just picked up a 96 ka transmission to replacemy extremely worn-out one. the one i picked up has the CAS on the bell housing. i can remove it(not use it) since im mating the transmission to a SOHC, right?
the CAS on the bellhousing is only used for onboard diagnosis of misfire, not to directly control the engine system

you can remove it and i don't believe sohc makes any difference

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monooxide View Post
S14 SR and I'd imagine they're different.
fun fact: ka SOHC maf can be used if sr MAF is not available

but once again yes they're different physically but readout is mostly the same

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read the rules cock boy, reported. if you really want an answer - cost vs value

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Hello gentlemen.

i am in the process of doing a bunch of bodywork to my car at the moment, its a long process but i have to leave my car outside. Its also going to be a few months before it gets painted. So here is my question, what paint can i get (in a can) that will protect my car from rust? I need something that will not chemically react with the actual paint that will be applied later. I understand that primer is not a good idea as it is porous and therefore it absorbs moisture, is this true?

Thanks! all info is greatly appreciated!
i don't think it will be a problem at all

but i would recommend putting real automotive primer on before a base coat anyways

the primer in a can should protect fine but i the enamel will be better over time

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tops* View Post
Hello,

I may also be in the process of doing a bunch of bodywork to my possible future car. Is there a proper method, per say, to remove molded aero? Sand down the filler material until the aero is exposed => Source the method used to secure the aero => Remove?

-Yuta

P.S. Yuta, thank you for asking a question I was wondering about a few hours ago.
I'm not sure if i understand correctly but i would sand it down to where it the aero meets the body and dremel the remaining filler until its weak and pop it off

any attachment (securing method) you should be able to see from under the car
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Old 12-31-2009, 06:13 AM   #50
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cool thread,

when setting the fuel pressure on my SR i take the vac line off, set to 43, put vac line on and it about 35. is that correct?
stock pressure setting is 3 bar (43.5 psi)

check this archive faq

http://zilvia.net/f/archive-faqs/945...m-upgrade.html

just remember the pressure raises as boost pressure in the intake manifold raises
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Old 12-31-2009, 06:14 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by cdlong View Post
i don't see why not. that's assuming people search before they post.

i've got a dumb one that i've seen conflicting and incomplete answers for.
what's the ID and max power levels of the common MAFS s13, s14, N60, N62, Q45 (P60?)? throw in more if you know them.

s13 - 260hp - mm
s14 - 260hp - mm
q45 maf is 350hp
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Old 12-31-2009, 06:29 AM   #52
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Is this a fender roll on this blue coupe, or a flare.

im trying to figure out how he did that.

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Old 12-31-2009, 06:34 AM   #53
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metal professionally rolled and molded to perfection
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Old 12-31-2009, 07:44 AM   #54
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is there a way to keep the inner fender guards, while rolling the fender and lowering the car?

i would not really want to remove it, because all the dirt and shit will fly inside my fender/door/engine bay

btw: great thread!
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Old 12-31-2009, 07:52 AM   #55
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if you roll the fender, the plastic won't be able to clip into the factory holes.

also, if you lower the car until it rubs the plastic guards, there will be absolutely no need to roll your fenders because it won't be very low at all.
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Old 12-31-2009, 09:42 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s0apgun View Post

the primer in a can should protect fine but i the enamel will be better over time
so primer in a can will be cool for ~2 months?

awesome, thanks.
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Old 12-31-2009, 10:47 AM   #57
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Hello gentlemen.

i am in the process of doing a bunch of bodywork to my car at the moment, its a long process but i have to leave my car outside. Its also going to be a few months before it gets painted. So here is my question, what paint can i get (in a can) that will protect my car from rust? I need something that will not chemically react with the actual paint that will be applied later. I understand that primer is not a good idea as it is porous and therefore it absorbs moisture, is this true?

Thanks! all info is greatly appreciated!
to protect from rust
if your going with a can of primer
*epoxy primer
or
*self etch primer

if you have rust already
sand it off

its best to spray with the gun you will save money.

POR-15 POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks
good stuff

if your to bare metal try to use gloves metal and human oil will cause rust.

oh stay away from those rust convertors..
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Old 12-31-2009, 10:52 AM   #58
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Is this a fender roll on this blue coupe, or a flare.

im trying to figure out how he did that.


you got to stretch the metal with body hammers use the fender roller and body filler to smooth it out

some durablocks with different shapes will get it like that
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Old 12-31-2009, 11:29 AM   #59
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so primer in a can will be cool for ~2 months?

awesome, thanks.
indeed

my metal primered parts are on way longer than 2 months now and they see chicago rain and snow but still looking fresh well maybe.. just primer fresh lol
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:10 PM   #60
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is a press, or any special tool, required to remove and replace the center bearing on the driveshaft?
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