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Old 06-22-2017, 10:59 AM   #7351
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Alright so I'm really stoked to announce that I have finally released a production version of my sway bar I've been making for years for many pro drivers. I now have two versions, a "pro" and "Street" version. Check out the links for all the details!

I posted some prototypes as far back as 2013, drivers to date on the pro circut running these bars are Odi Bakchis, Nate Hamilton, Kevin Lawrence, and Joon Maeng. I've gotten nothing but great responses from every driver. After 4 years It has proven to be the most chosen S-chassis sway bar on the pro market.

figured I would shoot you guys an update of this and see if you guys have any questions.



https://www.binkindustries.com/colle...ar-pro-version

https://www.enjukuracing.com/product...o-version.html
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Old 06-22-2017, 02:33 PM   #7352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bink Industries View Post
Alright so I'm really stoked to announce that I have finally released a production version of my sway bar I've been making for years for many pro drivers. I now have two versions, a "pro" and "Street" version. Check out the links for all the details!

I posted some prototypes as far back as 2013, drivers to date on the pro circut running these bars are Odi Bakchis, Nate Hamilton, Kevin Lawrence, and Joon Maeng. I've gotten nothing but great responses from every driver. After 4 years It has proven to be the most chosen S-chassis sway bar on the pro market.

figured I would shoot you guys an update of this and see if you guys have any questions.



https://www.binkindustries.com/colle...ar-pro-version

https://www.enjukuracing.com/product...o-version.html
Any pictures of the mounting on Wisefab front LCAs? Any thoughts on releasing a rear kit with weld on previsions for Wisefab rear? I miss my swaybars.
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:46 PM   #7353
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Any pictures of the mounting on Wisefab front LCAs? Any thoughts on releasing a rear kit with weld on previsions for Wisefab rear? I miss my swaybars.
He's got some pictures on instagram but I can't remember if there are any on wisefab stuff so that may not be much help
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Old 06-22-2017, 04:14 PM   #7354
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Hope this helps.

What is the issue with your rear sway bar? my experience is they bolt up just fine.

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Any pictures of the mounting on Wisefab front LCAs? Any thoughts on releasing a rear kit with weld on previsions for Wisefab rear? I miss my swaybars.
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Old 06-26-2017, 06:16 PM   #7355
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This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

Hey guys. I just bought some gk tech rear drop spindles from a member here for s chassis. I already owned gk tech rlca. I'm pritty sure they are both 1st gen stuff. Where the drop spindle sits on the lca it's on a wick angle compared to the stock knuckle. Here are some pics of how it sits. Idk if I'm doing something wrong


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Old 06-26-2017, 07:00 PM   #7356
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Hey guys. I just bought some gk tech rear drop spindles from a member here for s chassis. I already owned gk tech rlca. I'm pritty sure they are both 1st gen stuff. Where the drop spindle sits on the lca it's on a wick angle compared to the stock knuckle. Here are some pics of how it sits. Idk if I'm doing something wrong

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I don't have a set of the V1 LCA's here to check against but I'm almost certain that you have the ball joint end pieces on the wrong sides. They are side specific.
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Old 06-26-2017, 07:01 PM   #7357
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This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GKTECH View Post
I don't have a set of the V1 LCA's here to check against but I'm almost certain that you have the ball joint end pieces on the wrong sides. They are side specific.


Tks for the input I actually thought of that and I'm trying to switch them now


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Old 06-26-2017, 08:08 PM   #7358
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This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

So the problem was ball joint end links swapped. But these spacers that come with the lca that goes in between the knuckle and lca isn't giving me enough thread to get the cotter pin threw the top side nut. Is this spacer needed for anything or is it part for a different car?


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Old 06-26-2017, 08:37 PM   #7359
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Originally Posted by lgsr20swap View Post
So the problem was ball joint end links swapped. But these spacers that come with the lca that goes in between the knuckle and lca isn't giving me enough thread to get the cotter pin threw the top side nut. Is this spacer needed for anything or is it part for a different car?

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Using the V1 rear LCA's with the GKTECH rear knuckles a nyloc nut needs to be used on the top (or no cotter pin but I'd prefer to run a nyloc nut).
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Old 06-26-2017, 08:38 PM   #7360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GKTECH View Post
Using the V1 rear LCA's with the GKTECH rear knuckles a nyloc nut needs to be used on the top (or no cotter pin but I'd prefer to run a nyloc nut).


Thanks for the quick response


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Old 06-30-2017, 05:14 PM   #7361
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Well I finally got around to installing my GKTECH roll center correction kit.

I noted that simply installing the kit forced it to toe out quite a bit with no other changes.

My Tein outer tie rods wouldn't adjust bc they were sort of seized to the inners, so I ordered a new set.

I noticed that I was able to run less spacer with this kit as well: down to 25mm from 38mm.

I went to install my amazon chinabay flca's, but couldn't because they don't accept the Tein tension rods - they're too thick to allow the pressed in bolts of the Tein arms to pass through enough. Grrr
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:49 PM   #7362
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Oh and for what it's worth, I measured today:

Tein s13 inner tie rods are 11.25" in total length.
The max depth of the Tein s13 outer tie rods is exactly 2".
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Old 07-04-2017, 05:49 AM   #7363
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Quote:
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Oh and for what it's worth, I measured today:

Tein s13 inner tie rods are 11.25" in total length.
The max depth of the Tein s13 outer tie rods is exactly 2".
And just so everyone else isn't confused, Tein only makes one inner and one outer tie rod. There is so S13 specific inner, they are all S14 thread sizing on the outer threads. Good info though on length, thanks.
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Old 07-04-2017, 07:48 PM   #7364
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I went to install my amazon chinabay flca's, but couldn't because they don't accept the Tein tension rods - they're too thick to allow the pressed in bolts of the Tein arms to pass through enough. Grrr
You could always press the studs out and just run bolts.
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:18 AM   #7365
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Old 07-06-2017, 10:18 AM   #7366
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Got a chance to check out the new geomaster 3 knuckles. Looks to be pretty nice. We will see how they install.



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Old 07-06-2017, 11:10 AM   #7367
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Got a chance to check out the new geomaster 3 knuckles. Looks to be pretty nice. We will see how they install.



just to let you know apparently they dont work with stock e brake cables....
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Old 07-06-2017, 11:23 AM   #7368
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just to let you know apparently they dont work with stock e brake cables....
Do you have any insight as to what the issue is?
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Old 07-06-2017, 11:57 AM   #7369
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Do you have any insight as to what the issue is?
https://www.facebook.com/sebastian.s...4798952879586/
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Old 07-07-2017, 02:21 PM   #7370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
You move the wheel forward with offset strut tops.

Offthewall is test fitting and driving on GKtech's prototype V4 Pronuckle, which is a trialing knuckle with adjustable ackerman. 50mm drop as well.

He doesn't currently have offset strut tops, so he's running a LOT of caster.

This is with 8* of caster, on the highest ackerman setting, and with the lock stops all the way out. He needs offset strut tops to maximize angle, which is actually limited by his huge Evo 8/9 front calipers, haha.
I have a similar setup to this. Think rotating the pillowball mounts/caster/camber plates so that it faces fwd & outboard, will be enough to reduce caster on a trailing spindle?
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Old 07-07-2017, 06:25 PM   #7371
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So question I know your castor helps determine your self steer the higher it is the more it will. Now for those with mixed matched steering setup (PSM limitbreak LCA extended maybe 45mm(?) from stock, stock knuckle, q45 rods). Where is your determined good castor set up. Currently I'm on origin type 4 fenders (75mm). Got an alignment basically sitting at .5 toe out 1(?) castor and like 8 degree camber. Yes I know crazy camber I asked for it to be less, guy didn't listen. Strut tops are normal castor and at 3/4 postive camber. Obviously I have steering bind at full lock and the car turn the wheel a quarter your taking a hard right.

Basically what I am asking is if moving the strut top forward, to bring castor up is gonna help with bind and clearance issues I have and how the alignment I have with what I have is adequate or should be adjusted when I take it back to pull the camber back in. 18x 9.5 +12 in front so space is a bitch at full lock. I know the steering rack offset will help with bind but will the top mount castor allow for more clearance at full lock?
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Old 07-08-2017, 07:48 AM   #7372
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Quote:
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I have a similar setup to this. Think rotating the pillowball mounts/caster/camber plates so that it faces fwd & outboard, will be enough to reduce caster on a trailing spindle?
Depending on how much caster you want to run, yes. It won't get you the big lock flat contact patch, but it will help offset it.

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So question I know your castor helps determine your self steer the higher it is the more it will. Now for those with mixed matched steering setup (PSM limitbreak LCA extended maybe 45mm(?) from stock, stock knuckle, q45 rods). Where is your determined good castor set up. Currently I'm on origin type 4 fenders (75mm). Got an alignment basically sitting at .5 toe out 1(?) castor and like 8 degree camber. Yes I know crazy camber I asked for it to be less, guy didn't listen. Strut tops are normal castor and at 3/4 postive camber. Obviously I have steering bind at full lock and the car turn the wheel a quarter your taking a hard right.

Basically what I am asking is if moving the strut top forward, to bring castor up is gonna help with bind and clearance issues I have and how the alignment I have with what I have is adequate or should be adjusted when I take it back to pull the camber back in. 18x 9.5 +12 in front so space is a bitch at full lock. I know the steering rack offset will help with bind but will the top mount castor allow for more clearance at full lock?
Reducing caster will help with bind. Clearance issues will depend on where you adjust the caster at and where you're having issues. First you need to figure out what your actual caster is though, as 1 is nowhere near correct, and would be very hard to achieve.
It's all a balancing act, but stock knuckle ackerman is going to limit the amount of lock you can get before binding, especially if you're not running offset tie rod mounts or the rack forward.
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Old 07-08-2017, 07:56 AM   #7373
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Quote:
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Got a chance to check out the new geomaster 3 knuckles. Looks to be pretty nice. We will see how they install.
Thanks for pictures! Are you switching from the gktech rear? Interesting to see the front steering geometry they have going on.
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Old 07-08-2017, 08:33 AM   #7374
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Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Depending on how much caster you want to run, yes. It won't get you the big lock flat contact patch, but it will help offset it.



Reducing caster will help with bind. Clearance issues will depend on where you adjust the caster at and where you're having issues. First you need to figure out what your actual caster is though, as 1 is nowhere near correct, and would be very hard to achieve.
It's all a balancing act, but stock knuckle ackerman is going to limit the amount of lock you can get before binding, especially if you're not running offset tie rod mounts or the rack forward.
I have a copy of the alignment in the car I'll fetch it when I get home but the entire alignment is certainly not equal by any means. For this set up it should be about 6ish camber 6ish castor and a minor toe out? Correct?

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Old 07-08-2017, 09:10 AM   #7375
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Alright complete retard it's 6. Alignment shown in thumb below.
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Old 07-08-2017, 09:11 AM   #7376
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Old 07-08-2017, 10:03 AM   #7377
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I have a copy of the alignment in the car I'll fetch it when I get home but the entire alignment is certainly not equal by any means. For this set up it should be about 6ish camber 6ish castor and a minor toe out? Correct?
I don't recommend more than five degrees of negative camber in most cases. Six degrees of caster is a pretty good place to be. Yes a little toe out is beneficial.
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Old 07-08-2017, 10:15 AM   #7378
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anyone on here running techno toy tuning stuff?

I may try them for my S14 (the adjustable ones). If I do, I can give some sort of review, but not for steering lock as my car isn't setup for drifting. I'd be interested to see if other's have used it though.
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Old 07-08-2017, 01:46 PM   #7379
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Alright complete retard it's 6. Alignment shown in thumb below.
That sheet doesn't show the caster value. Looks like they didn't check it.

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Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
I don't recommend more than five degrees of negative camber in most cases.
I agree. When I first setup my car with longer LCA's I was at -9* camber in the front. Braking was awful, the tires would lock up very easily because of how much less tire was touching the road. I dropped it down to -5* and found that to be the sweet spot.
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Old 07-08-2017, 02:02 PM   #7380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derass View Post
That sheet doesn't show the caster value. Looks like they didn't check it.



I agree. When I first setup my car with longer LCA's I was at -9* camber in the front. Braking was awful, the tires would lock up very easily because of how much less tire was touching the road. I dropped it down to -5* and found that to be the sweet spot.
Yea I didn't want that much camber I was at about 4 before and then when I pulled it out and dropped it I had to push the strut top back in but 8.5/9 is pretty crazy.
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