Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Chronicle]

Alright, I've been looking into getting a longer final drive for my S14 (R200V) and have decided to go with a 3.692 final drive. My options seem to be ring/pinions from either an S15 (M/T), JDM S14 (M/T), and Q45 (97-01). Would I be able to use all of my current diff (6 bolt axles, VLSD, S14 pumpkin, etc.) with the R&P from any of these other R200's (I'm guessing I need different axles for the S15 and Q45, this question is mostly about the JDM S14 dif)? If not, what specifically would I need from the other diffs? Just looking for the simplest solution considering I already have an S14 R200V.

Thanks in advance!

[gnozahs]

Hi! I NEED HELP WITH MY CAR. Idle is rough and low and there is an air leak but not sure what exactly it is. When car runs for a while, i can smell unburnt fuel or gasoline from the engine. Vaccuum leak or bad fuel filteR? Injectors have been checked and they are good. My car, sometimes at a redlight, when I gas it to accelerate, my RPM will choke a bit and jump up and down 500-1500RPM until I floor it for the car to pick up.
Here is link to video to see how my car runs

1991 Nissan 240SX KA24DE low idle issue - YouTube

[takuymmt]

i have a s13 hatch with a s14 sr

so it seems like my injector lower o-rings may be going bad

i've never taken the injectors off so i dont know how this process is to go about.

can you guys help me with a tutorial or something on how to properly remove the injectors and replace the lower o-rings?

Thankyou so much!!

[angelz365]

Does anyone know of a manufacturer that makes OEM S13 fender replacement?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Chronicle

Alright, I've been looking into getting a longer final drive for my S14 (R200V) and have decided to go with a 3.692 final drive. My options seem to be ring/pinions from either an S15 (M/T), JDM S14 (M/T), and Q45 (97-01). Would I be able to use all of my current diff (6 bolt axles, VLSD, S14 pumpkin, etc.) with the R&P from any of these other R200's (I'm guessing I need different axles for the S15 and Q45, this question is mostly about the JDM S14 dif)? If not, what specifically would I need from the other diffs? Just looking for the simplest solution considering I already have an S14 R200V.

Thanks in advance!

Have you looked into a Kazz rebuild kit? I know the OE SE 4.08:1 seems a little steep, but you might want to go only as high as a 3.88-92. A 3.60 will shred tires on take off or be easily overcome in corners for oe stock engine drift. The more power you add the worse/?better? it will get. I am assuming you are going VLSD or semi locking, right?



I have a quick question of my own. I have looked all over, rimtuck etc, and have not found a good answer:
7x7.5 +42 ICW (Gram Lights G-Games clones). I know OE SE is 6.5x16 +40
How much spacer do I need front and rear to push these out to the fender lip?

I am thinking maybe 15mm rear, 10mm front or maybe 20mm rear and 15mm front. The wheels are in almost perfect shape, have new tires on them, so I want to use them until I can get the cash for what I really want. I figure a little cash for spacers won't be too bad and it will make the wheels set up right

[Chronicle]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Have you looked into a Kazz rebuild kit? I know the OE SE 4.08:1 seems a little steep, but you might want to go only as high as a 3.88-92. A 3.60 will shred tires on take off or be easily overcome in corners for oe stock engine drift. The more power you add the worse/?better? it will get. I am assuming you are going VLSD or semi locking, right?

I won't really be doing any drifting, so that's not a worry. I am in the process of swapping in a 2JZ with an R154, and a 4.083 final drive will make the powerbands between gears overlap, not to mention I don't want my swap at 3k RPM when I'm going 70. As for the "shredding tires", I'll be used to that. My daily is an LS1 Trans Am, with a first gear of 2.66 and a final of 3.42, so that first 6k RPM can stretch up to 50 mph.

I looked up Kazz, but I don't see any ring & pinion kits, just differentials. My S14 already has a VLSD, and I don't really need to get a stronger one yet considering my current power goals.

My original question stands. Of the R200's from the JDM S14, S15, and Q45, which ring and pinion would be the easiest for me to use in my S14 R200v?

[moco]

I just got a SR (redtop)swap done at a shop and everything works great the only thing it smells like gas in the cabin especially when I get into boost, I already try looking for leaking and I didn't find anything. What do you guys recommend to check next?

[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by moco

I just got a SR (redtop)swap done at a shop and everything works great the only thing it smells like gas in the cabin especially when I get into boost, I already try looking for leaking and I didn't find anything. What do you guys recommend to check next?

Gas tank vented properly? Did you eliminate the charcoal canister? Bad gas cap? O-Ring around fuel pump sealing?

[240ss]

Originally Posted by moco

I just got a SR (redtop)swap done at a shop and everything works great the only thing it smells like gas in the cabin especially when I get into boost, I already try looking for leaking and I didn't find anything. What do you guys recommend to check next?

Check the top of your gas tank where your fuel pump goes in. That o ring usually goes bad.

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[moco]

Ok thanks for the reply guys I will check all that when I get home.

[dankd]

Ok, I've been searching all day long so far for my answer and having no luck..

So I bought a coupe with a blown HG with intentions to repair it. When I bought it, the engine was half apart, as in exhaust manifold off, and intake manifold pretty much off aswell. ***So my problem is***

MISSING BOLTS So I need sizes and or where to get them I searched everyware please help., pretty much all intake manifold bolts or studs whatever they are. same with exhaust side of things. the studs are there i need to know the sizes of the nuts i guess, But on intake im missing everything. I checked the FSM nothing. please help its the only thing stopping me at the moment............

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by takuymmt

i have a s13 hatch with a s14 sr

so it seems like my injector lower o-rings may be going bad

i've never taken the injectors off so i dont know how this process is to go about.

can you guys help me with a tutorial or something on how to properly remove the injectors and replace the lower o-rings?

Thankyou so much!!

unplug injectors, remove the screws (2) on each cap. If the screws start stripping, use a hammer and hit it while twisting it open. If you have a impact screwdriver that helps a lot, if not then use a hammer and do your down twisting. Once the caps are off, but the screws back in but not in all the way and use 2 flat head screw drivers and rest it on top of the screws (one on each screw) and there's a slot on each side you can lift up the injectors with the flat head.

Originally Posted by angelz365

Does anyone know of a manufacturer that makes OEM S13 fender replacement?

Originally Posted by Chronicle

I won't really be doing any drifting, so that's not a worry. I am in the process of swapping in a 2JZ with an R154, and a 4.083 final drive will make the powerbands between gears overlap, not to mention I don't want my swap at 3k RPM when I'm going 70. As for the "shredding tires", I'll be used to that. My daily is an LS1 Trans Am, with a first gear of 2.66 and a final of 3.42, so that first 6k RPM can stretch up to 50 mph.

I looked up Kazz, but I don't see any ring & pinion kits, just differentials. My S14 already has a VLSD, and I don't really need to get a stronger one yet considering my current power goals.

My original question stands. Of the R200's from the JDM S14, S15, and Q45, which ring and pinion would be the easiest for me to use in my S14 R200v?

there's some shops selling ring and pinion kits. As of right now im running 3.91 from J30 diff also and my rpm is like 3k at 65/70 lol
Im guessing the s14 and s15 should be the easiest, but is it cost effective and cheap to get those differentials.

Originally Posted by moco

I just got a SR (redtop)swap done at a shop and everything works great the only thing it smells like gas in the cabin especially when I get into boost, I already try looking for leaking and I didn't find anything. What do you guys recommend to check next?

double check the fuel lines, might could be your exhaust leaking where the down pipe to the cat/test pipe.

[tacobellman_2007]

When doing a fender wire tuck on an S13 hatch, am I supposed to remove the plastic tubing around the thick bunch of wires in order for the fender to fit back on perfectly? My buddy even made a cut in the frame to stick it in as close as we could and the fender fit like shit. I spent so much unnecessary hours on it that I gave up and ended up putting the bunch of wires back in the original spot. After we put everything together, we thought that removing the plastic tubing might have helped a lot. Is that all I needed to do? Or do I have to have flared fenders / overfenders?

Pics:

[e1_griego]

Yeah, pull the plastic. It will still be a bitch to get to line up perfect, but a lot easier than not removing the plastic.

[acslater9]

Whats the best recommended brake fluid when going to do a 300zx brake swap? Thanks.

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Yeah, pull the plastic. It will still be a bitch to get to line up perfect, but a lot easier than not removing the plastic.

Alright will try that out. Thanks.

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

When doing a fender wire tuck on an S13 hatch, am I supposed to remove the plastic tubing around the thick bunch of wires in order for the fender to fit back on perfectly? My buddy even made a cut in the frame to stick it in as close as we could and the fender fit like shit. I spent so much unnecessary hours on it that I gave up and ended up putting the bunch of wires back in the original spot. After we put everything together, we thought that removing the plastic tubing might have helped a lot. Is that all I needed to do? Or do I have to have flared fenders / overfenders?

I left the plastic on with no problems. I've done a few cars like that. It shouldn't get in the way at all.

[juhd]

i get a clunking noise mainly from my rear passenger side coilover at low speeds. and a lot of the times when im stopped on a hill, when i roll back i hear a rubbing noise from the same coil. It also happens when i hit reverse. not sure if something is wrong with my coilover or if i just need to run spacers. any suggestions?

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

i get a clunking noise mainly from my rear passenger side coilover at low speeds. and a lot of the times when im stopped on a hill, when i roll back i hear a rubbing noise from the same coil. It also happens when i hit reverse. not sure if something is wrong with my coilover or if i just need to run spacers. any suggestions?

if the wheel is hitting the coilover you need spacers. Clunking is probably bad bushings.

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by Thedriftbadger

I left the plastic on with no problems. I've done a few cars like that. It shouldn't get in the way at all.

I'd really like to know how you were able to fit the stock fender on without any mods (like flaring) without removing the plastic o.o pictures would be awesome. It just wouldn't work for me.

[ryandriftingfat]

Wondering what kind of life I can expect out of an Exedy Stage 2 clutch.

Track car, 11 days on it so far. Stock SR with all the bolt-ons at 10psi.

[e1_griego]

I autocrossed mine for 3 years (couple years of r-comps) and a track day or two and it looked great when it came out.

Sold to a friend to put in his drift car and it was dead in a year lol.

[Deftenigma]

Will an engine rebuild kit fix a bad or broken engine? I know this is such a dumb too general question but I need help. I might buy a 240 DOHC. It doesn't run. The guy revved the engine way too high on the freeway and it hasn't ran since. I'm going to trade my AE86 SR5 and he's giving me 500$ on top of it. Is it worth it? Will the rebuild kit fix the entire engine? Any help or input is really appreciated, thank you.

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[yetijeff]

Originally Posted by Deftenigma

Will an engine rebuild kit fix a bad or broken engine? I know this is such a dumb too general question but I need help. I might buy a 240 DOHC. It doesn't run. The guy revved the engine way too high on the freeway and it hasn't ran since. I'm going to trade my AE86 SR5 and he's giving me 500$ on top of it. Is it worth it? Will the rebuild kit fix the entire engine? Any help or input is really appreciated, thank you.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

No it won't. Keep your 86. You would just be trading someone else's problem. And judging by the way your question is worded you don't have the skill or knowledge to fix it (no offense). A rebuild kit will have all the expendable parts that are in/on a motor, but there's no way to know from the info u provided what happened when he "revved the engine way to high on the freeway". Could require extensive machine work or worst case scenario he threw a rod through the side of the block and it's a total loss. Either way you will regret buying/trading for it. Trust.

[sidewaysil80]

Silly question. How do you break in a freshly built engine if it requires a tune to run. I'm assuming set the rev limiter really really low and then have it tuned; but I'm curious if even at such a low limit if it would in any way damage the motor while getting an initial tune.

I'm picking up the parts for my spare vq35 and I'm wondering if it would be easier/safer to initially break in the motor on oem intake system/ecu and then AFTER break in convert to map sensor/standalone and itbs. Or am I just over thinking as usual...

[S-Nation S13]

so I did rear brakes ( new pads/rotors ) last night.

I have spongy brake pedal now? I visually checked for leaks I couldn't see any, nor can I see any moisture/brake fluid on the lines themselves.

Would just a standard brake bleed remedy this situation? Just find it odd that my brakes feel more spongy with new pads than it did with worn out ones.


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[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

so I did rear brakes ( new pads/rotors ) last night.

I have spongy brake pedal now? I visually checked for leaks I couldn't see any, nor can I see any moisture/brake fluid on the lines themselves.

Would just a standard brake bleed remedy this situation? Just find it odd that my brakes feel more spongy with new pads than it did with worn out ones.


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Are you positive it's a spongy feeling? When you put on new pads and rotors the pads need to wear themselves into the new rotors. During that time the brakes don't grab as hard. Spongy feeling to me is when you press the pedal and it will sink down a shit ton.

[e1_griego]

Did you bed the pads?

[Matej]

What flavour of assembly paste/lube is recommended for use on an SR, when installing camshafts and such?
Thank you.

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

I'd really like to know how you were able to fit the stock fender on without any mods (like flaring) without removing the plastic o.o pictures would be awesome. It just wouldn't work for me.

I didn't tuck mine as high as yours is in the pic. Doesn't rub at all though, it's still higher up than the metal. (ignore the ghettoness, it's much cleaner now lol)


And as you can see, i'm pretty damn low. Not even close to touching the harness.