Solid aluminum differential bushings....such a pain in the ass!

[jspaeth]

Any suggestions on how to press/squeeze in the two bigger bushings that go into the subframe towards the back of the diff?


I am exhausted, and my body is killing me.....just have to get those in tomorrow morning and start reassembling

Beginning stuff wasn't too bad (considering my friends were using the jackstands, so i only had the rear wheels about 3 inches off the ground).

The 4 bushings that go in near the nose were cake.

.........

THEN I got to the 2 bushing that are pressed into the subframe.

I literally spent 3 hours with a torch and a pick-edged screwdriver trying to get just ONE bushing out.

Finally, got it out (the rubber and inner metal part), just leaving the outer metal edge of the bushing.

We took a saw-zaw to that, and put a cut in it, and then were able to easily pop it out.


HOW IN THE FUCK do I get the bigger bushings in (without a professional press)?

I have already tried torching the subframe a bit, and the bushings sat in the freezer over night, and still couldn't really get them in.

Any tips?

[lazysk8er2]

The freezer should have worked. Maybe they are defects and out of round? are the seats damaged on the frame in any sort of way when you were removing everything.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

I have already tried torching the subframe a bit, and the bushings sat in the freezer over night, and still couldn't really get them in.

Any tips?

Originally Posted by lazysk8er2

Metal shrinks when you freeze it. I heard a lot of people leave them in a freezer overnight and they go in easier.

Ummmmm thanks? haha I know you were trying to help....

[ILoveMyRHS13]

Yeah, these are always a pain in the dick.

Try putting a wood block on the bushing and hitting it in with a hammer. Just make sure it goes in even, haha.

What kind of solid bushings are they?

[jspaeth]

SPL.....my firends cannot stop making fun of me....they think I am a huge dumbass for even installing them in the first place...

I just enjoy making my car as stiff and responsive as possible.

May need to sand down the surface on the inside of the subframe, and maybe a little lube....

[MavericStephenc]

works wonders lol, could always take it to a shop and press em' out.

I have to agree with making the car stiff (did the same) but as a daily, it gets loud in the car but w/e good luck

[negrosx13]

overkill! for dd but w.e....lube and heavier hammer!

[jorge1190]

They are a pain but a big enough hammer and a block of wood will do it. Thats how i did my nismo diff bushings.

[ILoveMyRHS13]

Dude, solid subframe bushings are AMAZING. Even on a daily. I need to order mine soon...

Best of luck, OP.

[clain]

Diff is gona be a bitch to get in place, but a bench vise will do it... might need 1 or 2 people to hold the 80lbs in place.

[az_240]

I never understood how those bushings actually help if you have solid bushings in the front of the diff... I can't see the diff moving since it would be directly mounted to the subframe.

My s13 pumpkin alone feels solid.

I'd say the block of wood and hammer with some lube would be your best bet. If that does not work then some sort of large clamp or vice would be my next choice.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by az_240

I never understood how those bushings actually help if you have solid bushings in the front of the diff... I can't see the diff moving since it would be directly mounted to the subframe.

The OEM bushings are stiff rubber, but still rubber nonetheless.

These are solid aluminum. Eliminates all up/down, left/right, back/front motion of the diff, because there is NOwhere for it to move.

[jspaeth]

Also, before anyone suggests it, I tried making a tool like this to extract the inner part of the bushing (rubber part).



I used a pipe that was bigger than the outside diameter of the bushing hole.....then a piece of 1/2" thick steel over that....A bolt throught that.....then on the other side, a huge flat washer and a bunch of smaller washers and then a nut.

As you tighten it, the side with the "pipe" cannot get closer to the bushing, because the pipe/steel keep the head of the bolt fixed in it's location......so as you tighten it, it draws in the other side and "pulls" the bushing in through the inside of the pipe.


I did this, and it finally starting getting INSANELY hard to tighten (my guess was 175-200 ft-lbs).

...and then BOOM, the bolt just snapped. Like snapped due to tensile failure! Literally, in the middle of the bolt, no where near the head or the nut, the bolt just became two pieces.....

....and when it did, the thing recoiled and hit me in the hand......which REALLY hurt hahah.

Needless to say, those bushings are beef dog for sure.

[blueshark123]

get a grade 8 bolt something that u can torque the fuck out then if that broke.

[lazysk8er2]

wow what a hassel this is...lets get some pics if possible

[upsdude]

here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbUpHjPwLjk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjDDf-Kyczc

notice how much beefier the bolts were compared to the ones you tried.

[newslidz]

ok I did mine and was still intense labor. First I started with the impact and that will only go so far with my stuff I dont think its underpowered at all. and when i couldnt go any farther If you look just above the diff you can see a mangled closed adjustable wrench well i used the long bolt there with alot of washers and used a 1/2" rachet with the right socket and my 5 foot jack handle. I sat on the ground had a friend hold the subframe when i got tired of holding it with my feet and went to town. hope this helps some

[jspaeth]

Anyways, after another 4 hours of torching/saw-zawing/chiseling out the remaining old bushing, it was time to put the new aluminum ones in.

I put a little bit of grease around the edge....and then tried pressing them in from the back of the car towards the front.

Using the tool I made, they went in NO PROBLEM!


LESSON: Getting the OEM bushings out is about the worst possible thing you can ever imagine, especially with the car up only 3 inches on bricks.

Then your friend comes and says "try a saw-zaw", which you then do, and they actually come out a lot easier.

We had success getting the old bushings out by doing the following:

1) Burn/hook/pick at the old rubber part of the bushings until you can pull the middle metal/rubber part out.

2) Use a saw-zaw to cut through the outer ring in 2 places.

3) Take a screw driver and pound that part out, and then the outer metal ring comes out a lot easier.

This was a lot of trial and error......i was NOT prepared for how difficult it would be to get them out.

Once the old ones were out, the rest was easy, aside from the fact that it took me + one REALLY strong friend PLUS a hydraulic jack to get the diff back in place with the axles in properly.

This is a pain in the ass install. I love it.

[newslidz]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

Okay well these were diff mounts...

Anyways, after another 4 hours of torching/saw-zawing/chiseling out the remaining old bushing, it was time to put the new aluminum ones in.

I put a little bit of grease around the edge....and this (don't make fun!) tried pressing them in from the back of the car towards the front.

Using the tool I made, they went in NO PROBLEM!


LESSON: Getting the OEM bushings out is about the worst possible thing you can ever imagine, especially with the car up only 3 inches on bricks.

Then your friend comes and says "try a saw-zaw", which you then do, and they actually come out a lot easier.

Once the old ones were out, the rest was easy, aside from the fact that it took me + one REALLY strong friend PLUS a hydraulic jack to get the diff back in place with the axles in properly.

This is a pain in the ass install. I love it.

My bad man I am really tired and I saw solid aluminum bushings. but I am glad you got it all back together but if you ever do the subframe bushings you have my advice

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by newslidz

My bad man I am really tired and I saw solid aluminum bushings. but I am glad you got it all back together but if you ever do the subframe bushings you have my advice

Thanks! I will NEVER do them unless for some reason I have the whole subframe off.

I would bet that it is nearly impossible to do them without having the subframe off.

[upsdude]

yeah the subframe has to be off in order to replace them...only way around that is to use the collars. but hey once these are on you never have to worry about them again

[Fries]

I'm glad you got this taken care of!

[jspaeth]

Thanks, I can't wait to feel my teeth chattering even more, I love it.

[WIKID S4TEEN]

What a pain in the culo!
I too will be doing this shortly. But will be removing the subframe to swap out all bushings. Has anybody gotten prices from a shop (just average shop price) to swap them out?

I have thinking about just getting this press, don't now if it's sufficent.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Or maybe doing them at work. I have access to a 65 ton press there.
But that means car will be down for a day or two =(

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by WIKID S4TEEN

What a pain in the culo!
I too will be doing this shortly. But will be removing the subframe to swap out all bushings. Has anybody gotten prices from a shop (just average shop price) to swap them out?

I have thinking about just getting this press, don't now if it's sufficent.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Or maybe doing them at work. I have access to a 65 ton press there.
But that means car will be down for a day or two =(

With the subframe out it shouldn't be bad.

I would first torch the rubber and let it catch on fire and melt out.

Then use an electric-power saw to cut the metal outer ring and pry that out.

As for putting the bushing in, it was a tight fit, but if you use a tool like I or the person above me made to "pull it in", in shouldn't be too bad.

I am so jealous of those whose subframe was out. I am hurting pretty bad right now....

Also, freeze the bushings and then when you go to install, put a little bit of grease on the leading lip/edge

[WIKID S4TEEN]

Yeah, you'll be paying tomorrow, or for a few days, lol
Give us feedback on the bushings. This is a DD right?

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by WIKID S4TEEN

Yeah, you'll be paying tomorrow, or for a few days, lol
Give us feedback on the bushings. This is a DD right?

But of course!

The only rubber bushings/joints that are left on the car are the front/back lower control arms, tranny mount, and motor mounts....and also the bushings IN the spindles in the rear.

It's pretty damn stiff, and the car still has full interior, but there are tons of little vibrations everywhere that get worse as I replace more and more of the OEM-rubber-bushing suspension pieces.

Like I said, I love it.

[JRas]

put the bushings in the freezer

If I remember correctly, I used drill with one of those adapters that drill circles. I tried to start cutting the bushings out wile the subframe was in the car but it was too difficult.

ended up dropping the subframe, and using a torch and a screw driver to get what was left. * it's hard to cut through rubber with the hacksaw and gums up the blade.

used the hacksaw to cut out the metal retainer ( blade was for metal cutting had like sand stuff on the edge ). make sure you cut even as possible or you will end up cutting into your subframe on accident.

once you get the retainers out, use some lub and a soft hammer ( ones that dent the hammer ) you want to get it started into the subframe. the bushing has a bezel on the outside to help you get the tip in. get the tip in and work it around the bushing to get it evenly in the subframe.

you can use that tool you made from there or continue to hit the bushing in.

hope that helps

[singlecamslam]

Big dead blow hammer, just make sure its rubber, worked wonders for me.

[slideways2004]

this is why i used the pbm solid bushings. They were slip fit and all you had to do was epoxy them in. and the color is a lot cooler