Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by caspa

What's the best way to get rid of the rust? also, the damper knob at the bottom is stuck because of the rust....

PB blaster isn't doing justice.... Should I dunk the bottom in vinegar over night for a few days?

KROIL, scrub with stiff brush, KROIL, repeat 3x. Spray with Kroil from the top, and let it do it's thing over 24 hours, repeat 3x

[Crazyced]

Are s13 power steering (more specifically KA24E) known to be slow or laggy?

For example, if I try to do fast AX style moves like slaloms, it's like the steering hits a wall, then picks back up.

Is that normal behavior of an old system? Or does mine need a refresh?

[tuzzio]

Originally Posted by caspa

[IMG]
What's the best way to get rid of the rust? also, the damper knob at the bottom is stuck because of the rust....

PB blaster isn't doing justice.... Should I dunk the bottom in vinegar over night for a few days?

I have heard that mixing acetone and ATF is like magic.

[PatPs13]

Been having issues with gear oil leaking in between my KA trans and driveshaft. Threw a new seal in, still leaked. Thought I installed it wrong so I pulled the seal out and reseated it.. still leaks a considerable amount when it sits after driving. Any ideas? Super frustrating.

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by PatPs13

Been having issues with gear oil leaking in between my KA trans and driveshaft. Threw a new seal in, still leaked. Thought I installed it wrong so I pulled the seal out and reseated it.. still leaks a considerable amount when it sits after driving. Any ideas? Super frustrating.

Does the slip yoke have gouges in it or is it worn out where the seal sits?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Does the slip yoke have gouges in it or is it worn out where the seal sits?

That's just a 20 year old car marking it's territory.

[cerealwars]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Are s13 power steering (more specifically KA24E) known to be slow or laggy?

For example, if I try to do fast AX style moves like slaloms, it's like the steering hits a wall, then picks back up.

Is that normal behavior of an old system? Or does mine need a refresh?

Is the system fully bled?

Turn the wheel back and forth, lock to lock while you fill it. Our cars are supposed to take DexronIII btw.

[VTEC_lol]

How have you guys with very low cars dealt with this?

Mines not even that low but still rubs on speedbumps and potholes, I don't think hammering it is a good idea and I don't know about cutting and welding, kinda afraid I'll fuck up the chassis structure.

[1on1]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

How have you guys with very low cars dealt with this?
Mines not even that low but still rubs on speedbumps and potholes, I don't think hammering it is a good idea and I don't know about cutting and welding, kinda afraid I'll fuck up the chassis structure.

I hammered mine in and run a smaller profile tire. The proper way is to tub it.

[[240sx]]

Me again... Still dealing with my coilover undulation. Noticed that front has little to NO compression. Is this normal for a supposed 8k front spring?

Not my car, but the suspension movement on mine it's EXACTLY the same.

https://youtu.be/cc4ve88IgRo

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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Me again... Still dealing with my coilover undulation. Noticed that front has little to NO compression. Is this normal for a supposed 8k front spring?

Not my car, but the suspension movement on mine it's EXACTLY the same.

https://youtu.be/cc4ve88IgRo

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The springs should be set and locked so they measure 8.5" With the adjustment made to tuck tire but not rim, your movement is all tire and the suspension will move a little but not much. If you've dumped your springs to less than that, no movement at all and you just messed up geometry

[brandon519]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Are s13 power steering (more specifically KA24E) known to be slow or laggy?

For example, if I try to do fast AX style moves like slaloms, it's like the steering hits a wall, then picks back up.

IDK if that's normal but you just described the power steering on my single cam. It does the same thing. That being said, I think it is low on fluid, due to a leak which I can't track down. I ordered a rebuild kit for the pump though, so hopefully that will stop the leak.

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

The springs should be set and locked so they measure 8.5" With the adjustment made to tuck tire but not rim, your movement is all tire and the suspension will move a little but not much. If you've dumped your springs to less than that, no movement at all and you just messed up geometry

Hey man, first off thank you for taking the time and responding, I appreciated it!. Accroding to the Stance website, the S14' 8k front spring should measure 7". With the preset 'preload', installed height is at ~6.5". Car is lowered just so, that the tire is flush with the fender... which is about 1" lower than I was previously w/ lowering spring. So, not all that drastic imo. I know stance isn't the greastest, but surely this can't be normal? I only used that video as an example because like the video, any "give" when I bounce the front of the car is all from the tire. I tires are falken azenis fk453 245/40 on a 8.5j.(<- if that matters)

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[mr.nismo.]

So I picked up an apexi GT reserve tank. Apparently instead of the return going to the lower radiator hose, it t's into the heater core return line to the motor. Is there any advantage to either setup? I know they're both a "negative pressure" area, just trying to think of any advantages

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[hartig]

can anyone help me understand why I have this hood gap? kouki bumper with upper kouki bracket, and the hood is pulled as far forward as possible �� https://imgur.com/a/Oj9pJ

[dorkidori_s13]

loosen up your bumper, push forward... tighten while holding forward with knees

if this doesnt work, you need to realign your mounting brackets + fenders

no one likes to believe when i say "25 year old metal fatigues, brackets shift and panels move over the life span of the car".... buuuuuuuuuuuuuuut it does!

[hartig]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

loosen up your bumper, push forward... tighten while holding forward with knees

if this doesnt work, you need to realign your mounting brackets + fenders

no one likes to believe when i say "25 year old metal fatigues, brackets shift and panels move over the life span of the car".... buuuuuuuuuuuuuuut it does!

thanks, I'll give it a try tomorrow. wasn't sure if I was missing something or not.. super excited for the lip I got from you😁

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Hey man, first off thank you for taking the time and responding, I appreciated it!. Accroding to the Stance website, the S14' 8k front spring should measure 7". With the preset 'preload', installed height is at ~6.5". Car is lowered just so, that the tire is flush with the fender... which is about 1" lower than I was previously w/ lowering spring. So, not all that drastic imo. I know stance isn't the greastest, but surely this can't be normal? I only used that video as an example because like the video, any "give" when I bounce the front of the car is all from the tire. I tires are falken azenis fk453 245/40 on a 8.5j.(<- if that matters)

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GR+ are stiff. If You are running an anti sway bar kit, new bushings, etc, you are not going to notice any flexion in the suspension. The reason the preload is so high in S chassis coil overs is becuase the manufacturers know the car is going to be dropped onto wider tires and wheels, where you do not want more than 1/4" or so of movement. If you are driving, and the car is bouncy and chattering and your coils are noisy, then you have an issue, but if bumps are firm and the car stays settled, everything is working.

I have Apexi Evo on mine, full arm kit, and ST anti sway bars. I KNOW all flexion is my tires only(oe SE wheels and tires becuase trying to save for good wheels and solve old car problems like hub bearings going out, ball joints going out, other bushings failing....yeah, 240 problems)

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

If you are driving, and the car is bouncy and chattering and your coils are noisy, then you have an issue, but if bumps are firm and the car stays settled, everything is working.

Define "bouncy". I guess that's my biggest concern, because yes, as you mentioned bumps are firm (not overly harsh) and settled instantly (no continuing spring bouncing) Still, on what looks to be smooth road surfaces, I'm contantly "bouncing" up/down in my seat, like tiny jolts.

I guess I need to know if this is a spring rate/ quality issue, or dampening. Because I'm willing to upgrade to swift springs and/ or step down in spring rates, but poor dampening is writing off all the money spent on these. I just don't have enough experience with c/o to determine which is it.

Any suspension Gurus in Socal willing to help or suggest a shop that can diagnose modified suspension ride quality? Getting desparate now. [emoji17]


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[dorkidori_s13]

most coilovers ride stiff as shit... you sure youre not being over sensitive about the coils? MOST entry level coils for the S Chassis are stiff as hell! the video you posted is fairly normal on entry level 1 way coils. if youre thinking theyre going to move up and down like a set of springs + dampers, then youre going to be sorely disappointed. even with softer springs, the car is still going to barely move when you push down on it.

bumps ARE firm and coils settle instantly when going over speed bumps... if you start bouncing, then you hit the speed bump WAY too hard. the car will still have body roll thru turns at higher speeds, but not much.

Stance coilovers are one of the better entry level 1 way coilovers out there... after reading thru your posts, it honestly sounds like you are just being overly sensitive and paranoid about your coilovers and/or spring rates. coilovers ARE NOT meant for comfort (for the most part). theyre basically race car suspension for consumers. if you want comfort, then youre going to be hard pressed to find something within the $1000 price range.

PS: the proper word is DAMPING, not dampening. Damping is the ability to absorb a resistive force... Dampening is when you make something wet.

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

most coilovers ride stiff as shit... you sure youre not being over sensitive about the coils? MOST entry level coils for the S Chassis are stiff as hell! the video you posted is fairly normal on entry level 1 way coils. if youre thinking theyre going to move up and down like a set of springs + dampers, then youre going to be sorely disappointed. even with softer springs, the car is still going to barely move when you push down on it.

bumps ARE firm and coils settle instantly when going over speed bumps... if you start bouncing, then you hit the speed bump WAY too hard. the car will still have body roll thru turns at higher speeds, but not much.

Stance coilovers are one of the better entry level 1 way coilovers out there... after reading thru your posts, it honestly sounds like you are just being overly sensitive and paranoid about your coilovers and/or spring rates. coilovers ARE NOT meant for comfort (for the most part). theyre basically race car suspension for consumers. if you want comfort, then youre going to be hard pressed to find something within the $1000 price range.

PS: the proper word is DAMPING, not dampening. Damping is the ability to absorb a resistive force... Dampening is when you make something wet.

Hey DorkiDori, thanks for taking the time and looking into my concerns.

Perhaps I am being overly sensative about the c/o, problem is, I don't have a real world point of reference. This is why I'm reached out to the Community for validation. Best I have for perspective is youtube videos, and those I have seen don't show the occupants "bouncing" like I'm experiencing. <-- this including emusa/ godspeed/megan, raceland!!! So, as you mentioned, Stance should be a better ride so what gives? The biggest variable in all this is the the coils are second hand units (bought used) so who know if they've been tampered with or advrtised incorrecly (not 8k spring rates).

I guess the only way to know is for a experienced S-hassis enthusiast to drive it and validate them. Sounds a bit pathetic, I know, but as I said.. i'm getting desparate.lol

Oh, and sorry about the "DAMPING" mistake, I thought I had that right.(Derr) I know a member here has this mentioned in his signature with a supersoaker toy to illustrate the point. How embarrassing. Haha

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[dorkidori_s13]

honestly man, your best bet would be to call Stance and talk to them directly. if the damper was damaged in some way, the piston might be seized. they can rebuild them for you, but theres a fee for it.

but from what youre describing, it sounds like a stiffer suspension rate than what youre use to. id offer to ride along in your car with you, but i live in Las Vegas which im sure is quite a ways away.

silly question, have you turned the damping rates down on the dampers themselves with the little knobs? if theyre cranked all the way up, then the ride is going to be HORRIBLE since compression and rebound are basically cranked up to the max. for a daily driven vehicle, ive never run more than half the clicks available on my coils... currently on my Protege5, my YellowSpeeds have like 32 clicks for damping. i leave mine at like 16 upfront and 12 in the rear. my S13 hatch i run Fortune Auto 500s set to 12 upfront and 10 in rear (24 clicks damping). if you have the damping set too low, the ride is too squishy feeling since the spring winds up taking the brunt of the impact where as if its set too high, the damper doesnt have enough actuation to properly absorb and repsond. basic rule of thumb, if youre street driving your car, set the damping to about half for a decent ride.

[staying_chuki]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Hey DorkiDori, thanks for taking the time and looking into my concerns.

Perhaps I am being overly sensative about the c/o, problem is, I don't have a real world point of reference. This is why I'm reached out to the Community for validation. Best I have for perspective is youtube videos, and those I have seen don't show the occupants "bouncing" like I'm experiencing. <-- this including emusa/ godspeed/megan, raceland!!! So, as you mentioned, Stance should be a better ride so what gives? The biggest variable in all this is the the coils are second hand units (bought used for $600) so who know if they've been tampered with or advrtised incorrecly (not 8k spring rates).

I guess the only way to know is for a experienced S-hassis enthusiast to drive it and validate them. Sounds a bit pathetic, I know, but as I said.. i'm getting desparate.lol

Oh, and sorry about the "DAMPING" mistake, I thought I had that right.(Derr) I know a member here has this mentioned in his signature with a supersoaker toy to illustrate the point. How embarrassing. Haha

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I had an s14 once that was booty, the ride always felt like my suspension was made out of a shit ton of balloons. Bounced around on smooth roads like yours. The damping was all messed up from the PO, the coils ended up going to shit not long after i found this out, I have a suspicion that the damping being terribly set caused accelerated wear.


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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Hey DorkiDori, thanks for taking the time and looking into my concerns.

Perhaps I am being overly sensative about the c/o, problem is, I don't have a real world point of reference. This is why I'm reached out to the Community for validation. Best I have for perspective is youtube videos, and those I have seen don't show the occupants "bouncing" like I'm experiencing. <-- this including emusa/ godspeed/megan, raceland!!! So, as you mentioned, Stance should be a better ride so what gives? The biggest variable in all this is the the coils are second hand units (bought used for $600) so who know if they've been tampered with or advrtised incorrecly (not 8k spring rates).

I guess the only way to know is for a experienced S-hassis enthusiast to drive it and validate them. Sounds a bit pathetic, I know, but as I said.. i'm getting desparate.lol

Oh, and sorry about the "DAMPING" mistake, I thought I had that right.(Derr) I know a member here has this mentioned in his signature with a supersoaker toy to illustrate the point. How embarrassing. Haha

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We dampen pussy

If you don't like the harsh suspension of your coilovers, I suggest talking to Stance and moving to Swift springs. You may even want to consider a progressive spring if they have one. ISR Pro coil overs in my son's old kouki were stiff as fuck, jolted the seat on back roads, but they were also very nice on the freeway. My Apexi's are nice everywhere, allow the car to absorb bumps nicely, don't chatter the seat on a bumpy road. Bottom line though, you put stiff race car parts in your car, you are going to have a stiff ride.
My only advice is if you do not plan to race hard, and only want that occasional auto x or drift, DO NOT GET ISR or other super stiff motor mounts and transmission mounts. You think stiff coilovers suck, try the vibration that shakes the car apart. If you go still mounts, also get a good damper pully to balance your engine externally, you'll thank yourself with the light flywheel if you do

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

honestly man, your best bet would be to call Stance and talk to them directly.

I did email them before, but never heard back. So, took the advice & called yesterday and sure enough... I just sounded dumb trying to describe my problem.*facepalm* Guy was nice, but honestly couldn't help given my vague description.(bouncy/jolting) He did at least give me the email address to their lead tech engineer and advised me to make a video if possible, so I'll be doing that.

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

but from what youre describing, it sounds like a stiffer suspension rate than what youre use to. id offer to ride along in your car with you, but i live in Las Vegas which im sure is quite a ways away.

Thanks man, 2 hours & 30min (+/-) .. road trip!! Haha!. (kidding)

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

silly question, have you turned the damping rates down on the dampers themselves with the little knobs? .... my S13 hatch i run Fortune Auto 500s set to 12 upfront and 10 in rear (24 clicks damping).basic rule of thumb, if youre street driving your car, set the damping to about half for a decent ride.

I have, started out at "zero" (8 of the total 16way adj.) per stance's recommendations online.
I've been on full soft(-8), and just tried (+6), still not much of an improvement. Used your setup as a reference and kept the rear two settings softer.

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

If you don't like the harsh suspension of your coilovers, I suggest talking to Stance and moving to Swift springs. You may even want to consider a progressive spring if they have one. ISR Pro coil overs in my son's old kouki were stiff as fuck, jolted the seat on back roads, but they were also very nice on the freeway.

I'm willing to go the swift route if springs are in fact the issue. Just gotta determine if they're the culprit. Lucky you guys, mine is really noticeable on the freeway, which is all this car does really. (90 miles daily commute)

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

My only advice is if you do not plan to race hard, and only want that occasional auto x or drift, DO NOT GET ISR or other super stiff motor mounts and transmission mounts. You think stiff coilovers suck, try the vibration that shakes the car apart. If you go still mounts, also get a good damper pully to balance your engine externally, you'll thank yourself with the light flywheel if you do

Thanks for the tip about the balance/ flywheel. These KA are very non-revvy.
Too late about the mounts tho, sorta. Got Nismo motor/trans mounts & energy suspension Steering rack, rear subframe & diff bushings. The rest is all oem Nissan rubber which was replaced 2yrs ago.

You think loosening and re-torqueing the LCAs at their new static height will help? I did it while on lowering spring 2 yrs ago so it's only a inch or so difference.

Here's a short clip I made. Notice how my knee/legs keeps being bounced/ jolted?
Aslo, sorry for the bad quality uploaded... youtube would only do 480p

https://youtu.be/NdaHpJC1u00

*EDIT* That part of the freeway is smooth.

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[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

I'm willing to go the swift route if springs are in fact the issue. Just gotta determine if they're the culprit. Lucky you guys, mine is really noticeable on the freeway, which is all this car does really. (90 miles daily commute)

swift springs really arent a lot softer than the standard springs... trust me, they are not the solution to the problem.

honestly man... your best bet right now is to the send the coilovers back to Stance for a diagnosis/rebuild.

[CCHHAAVVAA]

I swapped over an automatic chassis harness onto my s13 cuz my old one was shit. Would i need to jump the black and tan wires to foul it into park at all times if i have wiring specialties sr20 engine harness and lower harness?

[anthony_240]

Anyone in SoCal running an rs-enpalthy ecu?
S14 ka
Isr 3871 turbo
550cc nismo injectors
Z32 maf ?

In need to test an ecu just to see if mine has a problem, if so please IM me, I’ll pay for your time and inconvenience.


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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

I did email them before, but never heard back. So, took the advice & called yesterday and sure enough... I just sounded dumb trying to describe my problem.*facepalm* Guy was nice, but honestly couldn't help given my vague description.(bouncy/jolting) He did at least give me the email address to their lead tech engineer and advised me to make a video if possible, so I'll be doing that.


Thanks man, 2 hours & 30min (+/-) .. road trip!! Haha!. (kidding)


I have, started out at "zero" (8 of the total 16way adj.) per stance's recommendations online.
I've been on full soft(-8), and just tried (+6), still not much of an improvement. Used your setup as a reference and kept the rear two settings softer.


I'm willing to go the swift route if springs are in fact the issue. Just gotta determine if they're the culprit. Lucky you guys, mine is really noticeable on the freeway, which is all this car does really. (90 miles daily commute)


Thanks for the tip about the balance/ flywheel. These KA are very non-revvy.
Too late about the mounts tho, sorta. Got Nismo motor/trans mounts & energy suspension Steering rack, rear subframe & diff bushings. The rest is all oem Nissan rubber which was replaced 2yrs ago.

You think loosening and re-torqueing the LCAs at their new static height will help? I did it while on lowering spring 2 yrs ago so it's only a inch or so difference.

Here's a short clip I made. Notice how my knee/legs keeps being bounced/ jolted?
Aslo, sorry for the bad quality uploaded... youtube would only do 480p

https://youtu.be/NdaHpJC1u00

*EDIT* That part of the freeway is smooth.

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That non revvy KA thing, get an ACT 13 pound flywheel, sucker will rev quick, but do not be tempted by the 11 pound one or you will shift third gear at the second crosswalk of an intersection from a red light.
The engine is capable of revving 7500, comfortable at 7200 shift point, but you really fall off power at 7k. 7200rpm shift DOES drop right at the torque peak though. I'm tellin ya, that ACT 13# wheel is nice, but get the external damper pully with it

[VTEC_lol]

I bought a new knock sensor harness but the connector seems to be mirrored, it doesn't fit with the current connector. Are S14a knock sensor harnesses different from other Nissan harnesses or what?
Also it has only one wire coming to sensor itself, does it matter which pin it goes to? Left or right? Just wondering since if it can be either one I can just get a new female/male connector somewhere
This is the one I need

And this is the one I got, seems to be mirrored or something