Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[bmar19]

Originally Posted by DailySX

I have a bit of an odd/silly question: Does it matter what type of bolt I use to replace the old rusted/rounded ones? As in, can I just drop by a local Homedepot and get what I need? Or are the screws and bolts on the 240 "special" in anyway (plating/grade/etc.)?

It shouldn't matter too much, right?

Depends. Anything suspension wise should be graded. If it's like to hold your fender on or bumper get any bolt from home Depot.

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[TheRealSy90]

Really depends on what the bolt is holding together.


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[Nurgleton]

Can anyone tell me which rear wing is on both of these S15s?

[BMWhitmire]

I bought a set of type x tail lights and they did not come with bulbs or sockets

Now on my last hatch I already had type x tails when I bought the car so I didn't have to worry about finding out what kind of bulbs or sockets I needed

Wiring is not an issue and that's not what this is about.. I just need to know.. what kind of bulb do I need and mating socket to fit in the light .. and is the socket something I can get from a local parts store or will I need to order it online

[juhd]

Originally Posted by BMWhitmire

I bought a set of type x tail lights and they did not come with bulbs or sockets

Now on my last hatch I already had type x tails when I bought the car so I didn't have to worry about finding out what kind of bulbs or sockets I needed

Wiring is not an issue and that's not what this is about.. I just need to know.. what kind of bulb do I need and mating socket to fit in the light .. and is the socket something I can get from a local parts store or will I need to order it online

Gotchu
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=585160

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by juhd

Gotchu

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=585160

Except those aren't the sockets...


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[juhd]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Except those aren't the sockets...


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Oops did not catch that. Well at least the OP now has an option whether or not he wants to wire them himself lol

[theStig880]

Originally Posted by BMWhitmire

I bought a set of type x tail lights and they did not come with bulbs or sockets

Now on my last hatch I already had type x tails when I bought the car so I didn't have to worry about finding out what kind of bulbs or sockets I needed

Wiring is not an issue and that's not what this is about.. I just need to know.. what kind of bulb do I need and mating socket to fit in the light .. and is the socket something I can get from a local parts store or will I need to order it online

I believe rhdjapan may have them but they're expensive.

Anyway, you can use RSX tail light sockets and modify them a bit to work. Here's a link explaining that:

http://az240sx.org/forums/topic/4085...ulbsocket-fix/

[Zenkouki]

In the midst of rebuilding a ka and I have been asking myself the question...should the freshly rebuilt motor be ran NA, as if it was stock, for the brake in or can you go ahead and turbo it, run low boost, and just get it tuned? Hoping someone can help me answer this.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Zenkouki

In the midst of rebuilding a ka and I have been asking myself the question...should the freshly rebuilt motor be ran NA, as if it was stock, for the brake in or can you go ahead and turbo it, run low boost, and just get it tuned? Hoping someone can help me answer this.

Boost it. Then break in per recommendation with a good break in oil.

[jared420sx]

Anyone know a app that uses emoticons like the ones on here for iphone?
Tried searching figured id give it a shot on my most favorite forum.

[lunchmeat]

I use tapatalk.

[1on1]

I've done my research and I am aware of the 75amp (i have a base model 95 s14) and the 7.5amp located in the main fuse box are not blown. All connectors are plugged in and the alternator stopped working when I was grabbing parts to fix my daily. So my two questions are:

1. Is there another fuse or relay located anywhere besides the main fuse box?

2. If some of the wires are chewed under the driver-side fender, can this cause a faulty alternator to not charge? If so, I'll double check tomorrow since it'll be sunny the next few days.

Thanks in advance.

[dbeiler]

Originally Posted by 1on1

I've done my research and I am aware of the 75amp (i have a base model 95 s14) and the 7.5amp located in the main fuse box are not blown. All connectors are plugged in and the alternator stopped working when I was grabbing parts to fix my daily. So my two questions are:

1. Is there another fuse or relay located anywhere besides the main fuse box?

2. If some of the wires are chewed under the driver-side fender, can this cause a faulty alternator to not charge? If so, I'll double check tomorrow since it'll be sunny the next few days.

Thanks in advance.

What causes you to believe the alternator isn't charging? You haven't listed any symptoms.
The alternator field circuit wire is routed from the gauge cluster - through the driver's fender - past the headlights- to the alternator. A broken wire will cause a no-charge. A broken 'charge indicator' bulb in the gauge cluster will also cause a no-charge.

[ZenkiKid]

( I rarely drive my 240 nowadays)

I noticed tonight after starting it that my buddy club seat rail does not lock after being brought past a certain point. it just slides back and fourth. My brother was the last to sit in it before me. What could be preventing it from locking? Could the gears/notches that the adjuster grabs onto be stripped?

[S-Nation S13]

Rear bash bar .. what do you guys do to mount the exhaust hangers (the ones that are on the canister)

[Thursday7]

My question is, you know those generic aluminum coolant overflow tanks for S13? Why do they have a radiator style cap? Isn't it supposed to vent? I'm considering gutting the rad cap that came with mine so it functions like stock, but I haven't seen or heard of anyone doing this. Can anyone explain this to me?

Originally Posted by juhd

Gotchu
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=585160

Also lol@ this

[1on1]

Originally Posted by dbeiler

What causes you to believe the alternator isn't charging? You haven't listed any symptoms.
The alternator field circuit wire is routed from the gauge cluster - through the driver's fender - past the headlights- to the alternator. A broken wire will cause a no-charge. A broken 'charge indicator' bulb in the gauge cluster will also cause a no-charge.

Thanks man! From the looks of it, it was the wire (white/red stripe) under the fender got messed up. Tucked the harness more with a friend's help and now my alternator is working.

When I first tucked my harness, it was perfect for 17-inch wheels but once I bumped up to 18s, there was only a finger gap. Now, there's a 4-finger clearance between the wheel and harness.

Originally Posted by Thursday7

My question is, you know those generic aluminum coolant overflow tanks for S13? Why do they have a radiator style cap? Isn't it supposed to vent? I'm considering gutting the rad cap that came with mine so it functions like stock, but I haven't seen or heard of anyone doing this. Can anyone explain this to me?

From what I see on most aftermarket s13 overflow tanks, there's two bleeders on the top and bottom of the overflow tank. If there isn't, whoever made it messed up.

[Jorgs_7]

Are S14 chassis' equipped with different sets of rear calipers, depending on model/year? My buddy was saying there are 2 different sizes, so when ordering rear pads it gets questionable.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Are S14 chassis' equipped with different sets of rear calipers, depending on model/year? My buddy was saying there are 2 different sizes, so when ordering rear pads it gets questionable.

There was a difference between ABS and non-ABS on 95-96 models, 97-98 got the ABS sizes for all. Then there's the 4 lug / 5 lug differences.

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

There was a difference between ABS and non-ABS on 95-96 models, 97-98 got the ABS sizes for all. Then there's the 4 lug / 5 lug differences.

Yikes.

I have a 1995 4-lug (converted to 5 lug) non-ABS

So can I just rock-auto some pads or what?

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Yikes.

I have a 1995 4-lug (converted to 5 lug) non-ABS

So can I just rock-auto some pads or what?

Yes. After poking around on rockauto (I'm looking a BBK options at the moment) it actually looks like the pads are the same between abs & non-abs. Just differs by 95-96 and 97-98 models. ABS had larger rotors. So just look for pads for a 95, should be good.

[johndoe5703]

I am trying to find out where to get new clips for my 98 240sx.

That small insert between the headlights, it has 4 square plastic clips that break if (like me) you don't know what your doing. Everybody seems to remove it, but I like it. Had to replace low beam bulbs the other day and this was my end result.

Any help is much appreciated, I'll try to post a photo I found online of the part I'm talking about.

I just want to know if anyone know where to get replacement clips for it, zipties are holding strong for now but it looks terrible.

Thanks !!!

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by johndoe5703

I am trying to find out where to get new clips for my 98 240sx.

That small insert between the headlights, it has 4 square plastic clips that break if (like me) you don't know what your doing. Everybody seems to remove it, but I like it. Had to replace low beam bulbs the other day and this was my end result.

Any help is much appreciated, I'll try to post a photo I found online of the part I'm talking about.

I just want to know if anyone know where to get replacement clips for it, zipties are holding strong for now but it looks terrible.

Thanks !!!

Grille Assembly Clips: https://www.nissanparts.cc/auto-part...omponents-scat

[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Boost it. Then break in per recommendation with a good break in oil.

No, DO NOT boost it, get it all together then take it to get dyno tuned properly

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

No, DO NOT boost it, get it all together then take it to get dyno tuned properly

Um, don't you normally break in a rebuilt engine first? Never heard of taking a fresh build then redlining the sh!t out of it on a dyno. Usually use a "safe" start-up tune to break in the engine, then get it tuned.

[zspeedrft]

Originally Posted by Nurgleton

Can anyone tell me which rear wing is on both of these S15s?

Car modify wonder

[Jrod12]

Anyone else have this problem I tried searching but couldn't find anything being similar to the problem I'm having in my 93 240sx so a while back my AC lights went out except for the green ones that show what is currently on. AC and everything else still works it's just not illuminated these are the only lights that have gone out inside of my car and on very very rare occasions they will flicker back on for a few mins then shut off can anyone please chim in on my situation

[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Um, don't you normally break in a rebuilt engine first? Never heard of taking a fresh build then redlining the sh!t out of it on a dyno. Usually use a "safe" start-up tune to break in the engine, then get it tuned.

What's safe? You want to get that thing on a dyno that way you can tune it to a "safe" level. Break in oil of course but the only break in is to seat the rings while driving. This is coming from advice given by Church Automotive in Long Beach, CA

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Um, don't you normally break in a rebuilt engine first? Never heard of taking a fresh build then redlining the sh!t out of it on a dyno. Usually use a "safe" start-up tune to break in the engine, then get it tuned.

5 dyno pulls = broken in
5 runs down the road through 5th gear = broken in

Do you think an endurance race engine goes through 1000 miles of sub performance running to break in? If you built your engine correctly with the good race quality parts, treat it like what it is, a race engine. If the same engine build can run 24 hours or 25 hours at speed, your built 240 ka or sr will hold the same reliability