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Old 03-25-2018, 07:25 PM   #1
TEALSQUEAL
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Exclamation Built s14.5, sr20ve-t, z32 trans, dual caliper ebrake...

Repost to clear out the old thread and get this sold or traded. I’m looming for something that I could trade in easily at a dealership. So if you’re trading your accord go by trade in value to dollar value. If it’s something that I find interesting I’ll go dollar for dollar. If you have a corevette I can add cash on top.

Hello,

This is my long term project that I have went through a total of 5 times now; including engine in and out of the car, suspension setups, and etc. It was the first swapped sr20det car in KY back in 2003 and I purchased it in 2005. This hasn't been some whored around beat to death car. I have literally done everything to this car myself including the paint. It is not an excellent paint car by any means, but it is one color and is a lot of fun to drive, and was built with reliability and longevity in mind. I finished this last build in the fall and just don't have the interest or will to take it out on a track and possibly smack a wall. It has been built with Road Courses in mind, but it can be tweaked for most any purpose you want.

DISCLAIMER!!! – The car has no heat, no a/c, no radio, stripped interior with no sound deadening!!!

1996 Nissan 240sx/se

Body/suspension:

-S15 front end all fiberglass fenders and front Bumper
-S15 Carbon fiber hood
-S15 headlights
-F/R Fender Flares
-Vis Extreme Side Skirts
-Black w/sephia red pearl in the clear
-Full custom chassis rewire with Fusebox relocated where passenger airbag once resided
-American autowire Highway 22 kit
-Full switch panel for ignition, starter, fuel, accessories
-turn signals, brake lights, headlights still intact along with power sunroof and windows
-spl solid aluminum differential bushings
-whiteline performance sleeved poly front lower control arm bushings
-new moog front ball joints
-Battle Z front lower tension rods
-tein inner and outer tierod ends with spacers installed
-energy suspension steering rack poly bushings
-energy suspension rear lower control arm bushings
-Max drop uprights with spherical bushings and dual Z32 calipers installed
-megan racing rear toe arms and traction arms
-Kazama rear upper control arms that have been hot dog cut and reinforced with ¼” plates for accommodation of Q45 cv output shafts
-Megan rear subframe brace
-stealth-custom-fab front fender braces
-Ground control coilovers with custom front mounts for 8610 koni shocks front w/tein pillowball top hats front and rear Koni Sports on rear Eibach springs front and rear (great ride with no bounce)
-Custom rear frame construction made of 2” ¼” stock tube steel where trunk was and fuel tank deleted for fuel cell mount.

Engine care:

The engine was machined by Bell Machine in Louisville, Ky. Head assembly was performed by them excluding shimming of the camshafts. The engine assembly after machining was performed by myself as I have a full Mititoyo machinists gaugeset and checked all clearances against factory/manufacturers tolerances. Yes this took an insane amount of time, but it was for piece of mind on my side, and I had the tools and knowledge to use them so why not exercise both. Break-in procedure was as follows:

-applied quickseat dry ring film after assembly to ensure no startup issues
-started engine with high zinc content oil to prevent any scoring on initial startup
-upon startup held motor at 2000 rpm for 3 minutes then shutoff and replaced filter and oil
-ran breakin oil for first 2 hours of operation during which engine was not kept at a constant rpm, but did not go over 5000 rpm
-replaced filter and oil with another round of break-in oil and proceeded to do lowboost (8psi) breakin runs to 8200rpm with repeated long slow decelerations on the highway using engine for braking.
-replaced oil and filter again after this procedure. Performed compression test and all cylinders tested within 3% of one another.
-drove normally and replace oil once every other month with only around town driving and few longer trips (1 hour each way on average).
-in total I've only put around 2,000 miles on the engine build this go around.

Drivetrain:

-S13 Sr20det Block bored to 87mm
-cp sr20det 9.0:1 pistons rings filed for boosted application
-Eagle rods w/arp hardware
-stock p11 cams shimmed to spec per the Japanese manuals
-Apexi 1.5mm headgasket
-full oem gasket kit used in reassembly
-new full timing chain set with all new guides
-Mazworx manual cam chain tensioner
-ACL main and rod bearings
-Linebored crank with ARP main studs installed to ensure proper ARP Stud install
-ARP headstuds torqued per ARP specifications
-Rotating assembly spun balanced beyond useable range to ensure smooth transistions between harmonics
-JGY solid engine mounts
-Howe racing SBC large radiator
-Custom T-4 Exhaust manifold with dual tial wastegate mounts fully wrapped
-custom intake plenum w/q45 throttle body mount
-BorgWarner S300sx turbo w/.9 T4 housing 3.5" v-band outlet
-Full turbo-back 4" exhaust w/3.5-4" transition Magnaflow 4" resonator
-twin tial 38mm wastegates w/wrapped SS dump tubes
-custom large volume -10 catchcan setup - 2ports off valve cover 1 port off of motor
-mazworx VVL block kit w/lines
-Taarks camshaft position sensor setup
-Sr20VE N1 high volume oil pump new
-Taarks sr20ve timing pin relocator
-Mazworx oil pickup
-Custom full 2.5" intercooler piping with Blitz Race intercooler core
-10 oil drain line with -10 fitting in block and from turbo w/heat shielded line
-an fittings and lines for oil supply from block
-custom 4" intake and long k&n filter
-Taarks power steering relocation kit (relocates pump to A/C pump location)
-Braided highpressure line for power steering pump
-aluminum power steering, water pump, and alternator pump pulleys
----Z32tt manual transmission with Mazworx adapter kit 1 piece steel driveshaft
-solid transmission mount
-Spec-D clutch and billet steel flywheel
-new master and slave cylinder with coated braided steel line
---J30 differential w solid aluminum differential mounts at rear

Brakes:
-Z32 front and rear with dual calipers in the rear
-Braided lines front and rear
-ASD hydraulic e-brake with reservoir for secondary z32 brake setup
-Full braided SS hydraulic lines and braided hoses to secondary brakes with custom tabs for secondary hose mounts
-Green stuff front pads currently
-Hawk pads in primary rear brakes
-Wagner quick bite pads in secondary rear brakes

Fuel system:
-CURRENTLY TUNED AND RUNNING on E85 adjustment can be made for new purchaser if you plan to switch to pump gas, but you will need it retuned once you have it home for pump gas.
-Jaz 16 gallon rear sump fuel cell with Ethanol safe foam (it’s a few hundred $$$ for the Ethanol safe foam
-Full -10 AN SS send and return fuel lines
-Fuelab 1000 hp inline pump
-Pre and post fuel pump large fuel filters with SS filter elements to accommodate Ethanol
-Custom -10 Fuel rail
-RC 1000cc injectors
Engine Management:
-Haltech Elite 1500 Standalone EMS
-LS2 truck ignition coils
-Custom MSD wires
-Full EMS independent relay and fuse block all located in passenger side
-Custom wiring harness for EMS

Gauges:
-Apexi Tach w/memory and warning multiple stages
-Greddy FP, Ext Temp, and boost gauges with memory/warning
-autometer oil pressure, water temp, oil temp, and Voltage gauges
-LM-1 wideband air fuel ratio meter tied into Haltech elite for closed feedback tuning

Wheels:
-Discontinued 5Zigen typhoons 17x8/9 staggered – Falken Azenis 615’s 245/275’s
-Discontinued Yokohama Advan Racing 3 piece Version 2’s 17x8’s square
-1.45” wheels spacers all around with hubcentric rings

Interior
-Sparco street Fighters driver and passenger faded, but in good physical condition with custom rail sliders
-Sparco Steering wheel with quick release and extender for tall people…
-Striped interior with dash still intact, stock gauge cluster does not work aside from turn signals and brights alert
-front half of interior has been underbody coated after sound deadening was remove. Firewall flame retardant still instact.
-Wink mirror (yes I know its fanboyish, but it serves its purpose)


That about sums it up, I know I have forgotten more things than are listed. Currently has a free and clear clean title in Ky and is registered. Please keep negative comments to yourself, this has all been done by me with some help here and there from friends. This has been my passion for almost 12 years and does perform well and is a blast to drive especially for whoever the next owner is since they won’t baby it like I do. asking $12,000. Please feel free to ask any questions.

Made 376whp on 20lbs. (Low compression pistons) has a ton more room, but it’s a lot to handle at the light weight as is. Fresh vibrant braided fuelines as of last month and a new z32 clutch slave cylinder.









Last edited by TEALSQUEAL; 03-28-2018 at 02:38 PM..
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Old 03-27-2018, 09:20 PM   #2
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Bump trade me something stock that I can trade in. Or just bring me a solid offer!!!
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Old 03-28-2018, 10:38 AM   #3
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Bumpo for vvl bro. pic link not working for me though
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Old 03-28-2018, 11:03 AM   #4
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Post the pictures on the thread, don't just post the IMGUR link. Forum rules. GLWS OP.
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Old 04-03-2018, 01:13 PM   #5
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To the top make some offers!!! Pics are posted
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Old 04-04-2018, 08:59 PM   #6
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Trade LS3 FR-S plus 30k cash on your end? Lol
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Old 04-04-2018, 09:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitey13 View Post
I don’t intend to nit pick your build, I just see that you’ve been trying to sell this for a very long time and I think the market is telling you something.

I don’t think the end product necessarily reflects the fruits of your labor or an investment that exceeds $30,000. There are too many things that jump out in your pictures that likely drive away potential buyers.
I think I’m reading through all of your posts I’ve just determined that you’re a troll that can’t afford shit, but hey like you said everyone has opinions.
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Old 04-04-2018, 09:28 PM   #8
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Trade LS3 FR-S plus 30k cash on your end? Lol
Shoot me details, as I have my eyes set on a c6 grandsport with full bolt ons maybe you’ll redirect my interest. If the wife approves as she has on corvettes we can have a deal.
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Old 04-04-2018, 09:43 PM   #9
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No one will ever appreciate a VE until they actual build one. The interior and AC completion are peanuts and can easily be completed in a weekend. But I am sure folks who have built one would already know this........

Also, everyone who is commenting on price, go build yourself a VE and return with your wallets empty, your house in foreclosure and your wife gone because you wanted those monster Supertech valves lol. No that hasn't happened to me, but I have seen my VE budget to date and cheap is a term I am not aware of. Build it once, built it right


Goodluck with sale Teal! If you part out, I got my eyes on a few things lol
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Old 04-04-2018, 09:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
No one will ever appreciate a VE until they actual build one. The interior and AC completion are peanuts and can easily be completed in a weekend. But I am sure folks who have built one would already know this........

Also, everyone who is commenting on price, go build yourself a VE and return with your wallets empty, your house in foreclosure and your wife gone because you wanted those monster Supertech valves lol. No that hasn't happened to me, but I have seen my VE budget to date and cheap is a term I am not aware of. Build it once, built it right


Goodluck with sale Teal! If you part out, I got my eyes on a few things lol
Thanks! I appreciate insight that most people don’t have.
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Old 04-05-2018, 09:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEALSQUEAL View Post
Shoot me details, as I have my eyes set on a c6 grandsport with full bolt ons maybe you’ll redirect my interest. If the wife approves as she has on corvettes we can have a deal.
PM sent buddy
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Old 04-05-2018, 09:12 AM   #12
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Recommendation for folks not keen on gauges or interior

1) Buy some interior door panels. Redo them (few hundred and a day or two at best)
2) Sell off all those gauges
3) Buy center or dash and drop it in
4) Buy a centralized dash and mount kit with all the money you made from selling those gauges (Racepak, RD2, AutoMeter, etc).

You would be in it for a few hundred at best and maybe 2 weekends worth of work. Its really pretty straightforward.

Teal, can you give me details on your radiator?? How did you mount the bottom legs??

I am thinking of a circle track radiator but didn't want to go custom and weld on some legs and mounts lol
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Old 04-05-2018, 08:31 PM   #13
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if youre too broke dick to buy the mans car, keep your comments out of his thread... ONLY WARNING!
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Old 04-05-2018, 08:40 PM   #14
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if youre too broke dick to buy the mans car, keep your comments out of his thread... ONLY WARNING!
Thank you sir!

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Old 04-06-2018, 06:06 AM   #15
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Quote:
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if youre too broke dick to buy the mans car, keep your comments out of his thread... ONLY WARNING!
This car isn't selling because people are too "broke dick".

He should post real pictures, that aren't filtered beyond recognition, along with actual interior shot so buyers know what they're getting into. The ones he has posted don't help and you know it.
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Old 04-06-2018, 06:15 AM   #16
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Props goes to another VVL brother
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Old 04-06-2018, 08:10 AM   #17
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Props goes to another VVL brother
Thanks! It’s a blast to drive and very easy going around town.
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Old 04-06-2018, 01:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitey13 View Post
This car isn't selling because people are too "broke dick".

He should post real pictures, that aren't filtered beyond recognition, along with actual interior shot so buyers know what they're getting into. The ones he has posted don't help and you know it.
you should learn to take a moderators advice and keep your comments to yourself... see yah inna month!
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Old 04-06-2018, 02:32 PM   #19
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you should learn to take a moderators advice and keep your comments to yourself... see yah inna month!
Once again thanks for sending the troll back under the bridge.
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