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Old 09-26-2013, 03:23 PM   #15001
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might be your stock intake reservoir (bottom of the intake box)
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:06 AM   #15002
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im looking for a thread that documents all of the coilover shock sizes if there is one? anyone know?
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Old 09-27-2013, 06:24 AM   #15003
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Need a new heater core. OEM replacements are easy to find... Looking for an aluminum core with metal inlet/outlet tubes instead of lame-ass plastic. Anyone know where to find one?
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:25 AM   #15004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_rempel View Post
Hey guys, I'm just looking for some opinions/ insight here. I've got a 2.5" catback with a 50 series flowmaster muffler. I'm really happy with the tone of it, but would like to bring the noise level down.
What is my best bet? I was thinking of adding a glasspack.

Edit: 60 series
You like the tone of what you have and do not want to change tone. If you do not have a resonator, DO NOT put one in, you will change the tone. If you want the same tone, but quieter, you can go with a longer, 70 Series can. A 70 Series can will quiet you down from the shorter 60 Series you now have. If that isn't quiet enough, you may want to consider the FM Hushpower muffler.


Resonators and what they do:

A stock system has a small bore resonator in it to remove the high frequency sounds of a small bore inline four. The resonator is what gives the exhaust note it's lower frequency sound. Aftermarket systems all have a resonator. This is why they also have a deeper sound.

Muffler:

You all know the oval deep tone mufflers out there. You have all heard the resonated N1(EBay, HKS, et al) systems with their lower sounds. If you want your car to sound like a inline four and keep the higher frequency sounds, get rid of the resonator, and run a straight through flowing can in back. You want it to have a lighter sound, get rid of the 3" system and run 2.25 or 2.5" with a 24" glasspack and no resonator...THAT will sound like a good old school high pitched small bore!
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:26 AM   #15005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hOngsterr View Post
might be your stock intake reservoir (bottom of the intake box)
correct, bottom of intake tract that feeds through the drivers side fenderwell
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:07 AM   #15006
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Hate to bring this in here but i cant find the answer anywhere probably because I dont know what Im looking for. My car got hit and this dropped out, anyone know what it is?
If you gun it right now, does it start to have that cone intake sound?

That things like a baffle / silencer, it connects to the filter box. You don't need it, but seeing as how you don't know what it is it's probably not hurting you to have it in there.

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Need a new heater core. OEM replacements are easy to find... Looking for an aluminum core with metal inlet/outlet tubes instead of lame-ass plastic. Anyone know where to find one?
You mean a stock replacement? Or universal? Universal is pretty common for restores, I see a few on Google.
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:35 AM   #15007
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You mean a stock replacement? Or universal? Universal is pretty common for restores, I see a few on Google.
I've seen the universals too... The problem is that they don't come with inlet/outlet tubes... May just end up getting one and tig some tubes on it.
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:50 AM   #15008
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:00 PM   #15009
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Hey, I have this steering wheel stuck in my head, but I can't remember who makes it.. I wanted to buy it.. Its blue suede, has the company name in red lettering on it, I can't freaking remember it, and its givin me a headache tryin to.. Anyone know which steering wheel im talking about?

EDIT: it's not sparco.. its a japanese garage, i just cant remember it
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:44 PM   #15010
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is it really worth the money to get rear LCAs????
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:55 PM   #15011
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is it really worth the money to get rear LCAs????
Like, adjustable?

In my opinion they are one of those things that you don't need until you do.

If you have some reason you need them (primarily track use, crazy stance) then sure but if you're just throwing a car together to learn to drift or whatever, I would not.

EDIT: replacing ball joints and/or LCA bushings is not a bad idea.
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Old 09-27-2013, 04:12 PM   #15012
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Like, adjustable?

In my opinion they are one of those things that you don't need until you do.

If you have some reason you need them (primarily track use, crazy stance) then sure but if you're just throwing a car together to learn to drift or whatever, I would not.

EDIT: replacing ball joints and/or LCA bushings is not a bad idea.
ya probably adjustable something aftermarket since my stock ones are fine but whats the point of adjusting a RLCA?? and its for my track car i have every other suspension arms except RLCAS and rear knuckles i heard the rear drop knucles help but havent really looking into them that much yet
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Old 09-27-2013, 04:33 PM   #15013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
You like the tone of what you have and do not want to change tone. If you do not have a resonator, DO NOT put one in, you will change the tone. If you want the same tone, but quieter, you can go with a longer, 70 Series can. A 70 Series can will quiet you down from the shorter 60 Series you now have. If that isn't quiet enough, you may want to consider the FM Hushpower muffler.


Resonators and what they do:

A stock system has a small bore resonator in it to remove the high frequency sounds of a small bore inline four. The resonator is what gives the exhaust note it's lower frequency sound. Aftermarket systems all have a resonator. This is why they also have a deeper sound.

Muffler:

You all know the oval deep tone mufflers out there. You have all heard the resonated N1(EBay, HKS, et al) systems with their lower sounds. If you want your car to sound like a inline four and keep the higher frequency sounds, get rid of the resonator, and run a straight through flowing can in back. You want it to have a lighter sound, get rid of the 3" system and run 2.25 or 2.5" with a 24" glasspack and no resonator...THAT will sound like a good old school high pitched small bore!
So, it will sound like shit...

I'm more of the longest resonator that will fit between the cat and sway bar kind of person.
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Old 09-27-2013, 05:02 PM   #15014
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Anyone with a s14, a few mins, and a measuring tape mind helping me out? I cut out my radiator support/ front end to make a tube rad/front end support. I had measured the height from the top of the frame rail
to the radiator support beam. My simply amazing fiance decided to use the paper I had the measurements on to start up the grill. It's tube rolling time and I'm out measurements.

Ty in advance
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Old 09-27-2013, 06:42 PM   #15015
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Quick question for anyone running the Blitz carbon gauges like this, how bright are they at night? I dig the look, but in the pics I've seen, they look like they would be really distracting, but hard to tell when I cant see them in person.
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:39 PM   #15016
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Blue is the worst on eyes at night.
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:42 PM   #15017
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Blue is the worst on eyes at night.
agreed, I used to have a cheap set of gauges in my old truck that were bright blue, had to pull the fuse after the first test drive lol. These come in black light lit too, however, wonder how bad they are compared to blue led lit ones. Trying to avoid a repeated mistake
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:02 PM   #15018
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Hey, I have this steering wheel stuck in my head, but I can't remember who makes it.. I wanted to buy it.. Its blue suede, has the company name in red lettering on it, I can't freaking remember it, and its givin me a headache tryin to.. Anyone know which steering wheel im talking about?

EDIT: it's not sparco.. its a japanese garage, i just cant remember it
Pesonal, Nardi, Momo.
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:04 PM   #15019
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Pesonal, Nardi, Momo.
Grip Royal, Keys Racing
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:13 PM   #15020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snow hawk View Post
Hey, I have this steering wheel stuck in my head, but I can't remember who makes it.. I wanted to buy it.. Its blue suede, has the company name in red lettering on it, I can't freaking remember it, and its givin me a headache tryin to.. Anyone know which steering wheel im talking about?

EDIT: it's not sparco.. its a japanese garage, i just cant remember it
vertex probably
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:56 PM   #15021
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I blew out an axle and picked up a good condition one a few hours ago. I went to put it in and this cover and spring popped off. Anyone know if there's a way to fill it with grease again and pop it back on?

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Old 09-28-2013, 07:16 AM   #15022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
So, it will sound like shit...

I'm more of the longest resonator that will fit between the cat and sway bar kind of person.
I suppose if you like your 2.0 - 2.6 to make noises like it's trying to drop the initial tones in a Dub Step bass drop, that would be a good thing. Of course you know the glasspack thing was tongue in cheek too...If you live in the south, there are tons of rednecked pipes on trucks that are nothing but a glasspack.

Tuning an exhaust for power and tone means using the optimal size tubing to begin with. N/A to 2.5L, even with the most aggressive cams and tuning, only make up to ~250hp, not enough to warrant more than 2.5". Any more than that will be too much for the flow that is generated.
Only when an engine is capable of generating over 275hp, stepping up to a 3" system is the way to go, but then tone and tuning still have a lot to do with generated sound. The Moroso SS SpiroFlow muffler has a very nice sound to it, and can also be used as a resonator. It offers better flow, and does not drop the tone as low, but smoothes it out. It doesn't have the FM 'echo', and is actually lighter than other cans. Many of the so called 'race bullets' also make good resonators and if doubled up for rez and muffler are not overly loud like a straight blast pipe
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:06 PM   #15023
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if you want a resonator, get a box one. dont get the tube ones you weld on, that barely makes any difference.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:40 AM   #15024
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I blew out an axle and picked up a good condition one a few hours ago. I went to put it in and this cover and spring popped off. Anyone know if there's a way to fill it with grease again and pop it back on?
Yes as long as you put just like it was before and didn't loose any of those ball bearings. Next time compress both sides of the CV joints so it won't pop out.
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:02 PM   #15025
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PBM vs. Silk road coilovers. which one would you choose?
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:54 PM   #15026
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Double check that check valve is facing the right way. Fix vaccum leak
check valves worked, i plugged the line going into the booster and car runs good now. thanks. so now the question is, how to find out where the booster is leaking, and if i can fix it or do i have to find a new booster?
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:13 PM   #15027
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Ill snap some better pics tommorow, but can anyone tell me if this is real or a replica? Came in my car, and never really have seen Brix replicas so I wasnt sure.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:05 PM   #15028
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To make a ling story short. My buddy recently bought an s14 I used to own. Anyways, when I owned the car I had to replace the starter twice in a short period of time. After that I sold the car. Now that my buddy owns the car it's back to killing starters again. We put in two new ones and none of them work. What could be causing the car not to start? I'm horrible with wiring or anything electrical so I'm lost.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:34 AM   #15029
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I did a f fender wire tuck and now my headlights are stuck in different positions and one on n one off. My blinkers don't work either. All my wiring checks out. I have no idea what the fuck is going on. Any ideas??
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:38 AM   #15030
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To make a ling story short. My buddy recently bought an s14 I used to own. Anyways, when I owned the car I had to replace the starter twice in a short period of time. After that I sold the car. Now that my buddy owns the car it's back to killing starters again. We put in two new ones and none of them work. What could be causing the car not to start? I'm horrible with wiring or anything electrical so I'm lost.
Check the wire diagram on in the FSM. Look for the PDF file, Electrical, then look for page 27, Starting System, then look at the wire diagram. You probably have either a short, bad wire, or are buying starters with crappy components

The battery goes directly to the starter

The battery also goes through a 30A fused relay to the ignition switch(key), to the Clutch engagement relay, then to the starter's start switch component

It is a simple system. You obviously have a short somewhere that is running high voltage and blowing part of the starter
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