Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[JrDarknes]

RB20DET, Coolant Temp getting too hot

Parts
-Defi Racer Water Temp Gauge and a Circuit Sports Fan controller with a Gauge reading as well.
-12" ISIS fans, Pullers
-ISIS Dual Core Radiator
-Red Toyota Coolant 30/70 + Water Wetter
-CX FMIC Racing Intercooler Kit

Defi Gauge will read close to 110C when I am driving in (80-90F) weather. Circuit Sports gauge is reading 97C.
Circuit sports sensor is where the old sensor for the cluster was. Defi sensor is near the top radiator (I'm using that adapter for the hose)

Both are pretty high.

Everything is new (Radiator, Water Pump, Thermostat, Fans). Will a oil cooler cool this thing down or no?

Weird thing is. Yesterday I had the bleeder valve loose. As long as the car was standing still, Temps would go to 78C but when the fan came on it dropped to 70C.

However when I closed the bleeder valve and took it for a drive it Defi gauge was reading close to 100C while the circuit sports was around 83-84C with fans on, im sure if I kept driving it would of finally creeped up to the numbers I listed 2 paragraphs up.

I am relying more on the DEFI gauge and wondering why I am running so hot and if there is anything I can do to make it run cooler.

[Agamemnon]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

Okay another question about the exhaust on S14a

So I have two o2 sensors, first in turbo elbow and another in catalytic converter, I bought a straight pipe and it has no boss to fit the o2, my question is that if I unplug the second o2 and tuck it somewhere in the chassis will I get any other issues than CEL?

I can live with the CEL for a while since Im gonna get my car tuned and remove the o2 sensor completely but can I drive the car for about a month without any issues? It shouldnt affect fueling etc since the first o2 does that, right?

That should be a cat temp warning sensor. It's not tied into the ECU. You'll be fine.

[VTEC_lol]

I made a thread of this but I need an answer asap, so my car has this issue that if I turn my car to ACC my fuel pump primes normally but as soon as the priming is done, fuel pressure drops to 0. When I turn my car on, pressure goes to 40psi and if I kink the vacuum it rises to 48-50psi, and when I turn my car off the pressure drops to 0 instantly.
I'm guessing it's either bad afpr or fuel pump check valve or pump itself?

[mr.nismo.]

Can someone tell me what this retainer goes to? I looked up the p/n with no avail. Hopefully someone recognizes it

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[[240sx]]

^^^^^
Bumper support/ retainer?

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[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

^^^^^
Bumper support/ retainer?

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I figured that's what it is, just wasnt sure if it was for an s14 or s13 Silvia front.

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[VTEC_lol]

This is for the carbon canister vacuum right?

Am I able to use this for my boost gauge vacuum source?
The one on the right is for my BOV, is it better to tap on that or put it where the image points?

[derass]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

This is for the carbon canister vacuum right?
Am I able to use this for my boost gauge vacuum source?
The one on the right is for my BOV, is it better to tap on that or put it where the image points?

If that's an S13 SR then yes, that's for the carbon canister.

You can't use it for the BOV because it only has a signal when the throttle is open (to let fuel vapor in I assume). Put a vacuum gauge on there and see for yourself.

So you would be better of tee-ing into one of the upper vacuum nipples. That's what I did. You could also use a vacuum manifold inline with the hose going to the brake booster.

[deletedalien]

i searched, didn't find anything so.....

quick question....

Anyone with an S13 chassis and a VQ35de swap,

is it possible to mode the steering rack forward????
i DON'T want to use offset rack spacers...

Thanx

[Aureus Mente]

I have done some searching but come up with nothing in my current area (south west). If anyone could give me the current going price of a clean s14 shell with title

[ZenkiKid]

Bad speed sensor or speedometer?

Was driving the car (s13) and it suddenly shot up to 95mph and stayed there. When I would decelerate the needle would begin to go down the wrong side (100+mph side). When I would then accelerate from a stop it would shoot back up to 95 and stay there.

***ODOMETER STILL WORKS FINE****

Bad speed sensor or speedometer?

[e1_griego]

I've had a couple of speedos fail on me so my usual suspect is the speedo.

[idea]

Are these rare? If so how much $$ would they go for, if I were to sell them? I found some s14 Silvia ones on eBay for about $150-$200. But I just can’t seem to find pricing on these.
I’m going to assume these were either OEM or an accessory floor mat you could buy from the Nissan dealership back in 1991, because they came with my 91 Silvia that was imported to the US not too long ago.

I took them out of my car just in-case these actually were rare, I’d like to keep them in good condition instead of having my grubby little feet on them.

[ZenkiKid]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

I've had a couple of speedos fail on me so my usual suspect is the speedo.

So far from google I’m reading it could be one of 3 things:

1. Bad Speedo
2. Bad speed sensor
3. Bad/dirty grounds

I’m gonna clean my grounds first and then if that doesn’t work test my speed sensor. Thanks man!

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by derass

If that's an S13 SR then yes, that's for the carbon canister.

You can't use it for the BOV because it only has a signal when the throttle is open (to let fuel vapor in I assume). Put a vacuum gauge on there and see for yourself.

So you would be better of tee-ing into one of the upper vacuum nipples. That's what I did. You could also use a vacuum manifold inline with the hose going to the brake booster.

It is an S14a SR, I tried to hook up the gauge in the line pointed by the arrow, but it shows no vacuum.
I also tried to tee the bov vacuum (next to the arrow) and my idle showed only -7psi so that can't be good either.
I only tested it though to see if it shows vacuum, should it be ok to tee off the bov?
E: what are these for? I assume the one on the left is for oem recirc valve and one on right is for carbon canister? Can I use one for the boost gauge vacuum? And the other for BOV?

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

This is for the carbon canister vacuum right?

Am I able to use this for my boost gauge vacuum source?
The one on the right is for my BOV, is it better to tap on that or put it where the image points?

I'll try to keep these two posts straight: that one that is capped off is like that from the factory, leave it capped. The one to the right does go to the carbon canister, but since it is on the outside of the throttle body, it won't see vacuum (only boost pressure). It's a good port to feed your wastegate from if you don't have a feed closer to the source.

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

It is an S14a SR, I tried to hook up the gauge in the line pointed by the arrow, but it shows no vacuum.
I also tried to tee the bov vacuum (next to the arrow) and my idle showed only -7psi so that can't be good either.
I only tested it though to see if it shows vacuum, should it be ok to tee off the bov?
E: what are these for? I assume the one on the left is for oem recirc valve and one on right is for carbon canister? Can I use one for the boost gauge vacuum? And the other for BOV?

These two ports do see both vacuum and boost. In the stock setup, the port on the left feeds both the BOV and the stock boost sensor. The port on the right goes to the carbon canister.

If you're not using the carbon canister, the feed one to your BOV, and the other to your boost sensor/gauge.

My setup started with stock intercooler and carbon canister. I've upgraded the intercooler since then, but still have the carbon canister. So my vacuum lines are:
1. Small feed #1 on throttle body -> canister w/ T feeding wastegate (following Greddy install instructions)
2. Small feed #2 on throttle body -> capped off
3. Larger feed #1 from manifold -> BOV w/ T feeding boost gauge
4. Larger feed #2 from manifold -> carbon canister vacuum

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

I'll try to keep these two posts straight: that one that is capped off is like that from the factory, leave it capped. The one to the right does go to the carbon canister, but since it is on the outside of the throttle body, it won't see vacuum (only boost pressure). It's a good port to feed your wastegate from if you don't have a feed closer to the source.



These two ports do see both vacuum and boost. In the stock setup, the port on the left feeds both the BOV and the stock boost sensor. The port on the right goes to the carbon canister.

If you're not using the carbon canister, the feed one to your BOV, and the other to your boost sensor/gauge.

My setup started with stock intercooler and carbon canister. I've upgraded the intercooler since then, but still have the carbon canister. So my vacuum lines are:
1. Small feed #1 on throttle body -> canister w/ T feeding wastegate (following Greddy install instructions)
2. Small feed #2 on throttle body -> capped off
3. Larger feed #1 from manifold -> BOV w/ T feeding boost gauge
4. Larger feed #2 from manifold -> carbon canister vacuum

Okay thanks a lot that was very helpful! The lines are like that since I havent touched them myself yet, so the BOV is installed incorrectly I assume, no wonder I hear compressor surge (if its even related)

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

Okay thanks a lot that was very helpful! The lines are like that since I havent touched them myself yet, so the BOV is installed incorrectly I assume, no wonder I hear compressor surge (if its even related)

Yeah, the BOV works on the transition from boost to vacuum so it may not be opening correctly if there's never any vacuum.

Since photobucket is broke, attached is the stock vacuum line diagram. I've added my notes for boost sensor and feeding wastegate from the throttle body vs a nipple on the stock intercooler piping. This is exactly how my car is configured at the moment.

[Bail$]

So what's the best way to take out spray paint runs?

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by Bail$

So what's the best way to take out spray paint runs?

Wetsanding with a block from 1000-2500 grit depending on how bad it is and compounding is what I would do

[mau5trap]

Question, Can bad bushing make the car lower in front and rear ?

Also can a bad front lower ball joint make the car lower in the front?

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Question, Can bad bushing make the car lower in front and rear ?

Also can a bad front lower ball joint make the car lower in the front?

Depends on the bushing, but usually not. Sloppy handling and/or noises are the common symptoms. Same with ball joints.

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Question, Can bad bushing make the car lower in front and rear ?

Maybe if the LCA was tighten with out the suspension being at ride height. That would ruin the lca bushing... but the handling would be noticible poop.

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[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Depends on the bushing, but usually not. Sloppy handling and/or noises are the common symptoms. Same with ball joints.

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Maybe if the LCA was tighten with out the suspension being at ride height. That would ruin the lca bushing... but the handling would be noticible poop.

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Thanks guys.

My car currently sits unleveled and it's bugging me out.

[Roscoe.]

I'm at a wits end here, and any help would be appreciated. I've got a 95 OBD1 Zenki that's running shit. When started, it'll idle at 800-900, then drop to 600. Tapping throttle will pop idle back up and it'll stay at 800-900. Adding throttle, it will bog 200-300 rpm, then slowly raise. Car has noticeably less power driving, backfires like crazy, and is very stuttery. So far I've cleaned the MAF, changed Air and Fuel filters, changed spark plugs, changed fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator, checked TPS, and replaced the knock sensor (the only code I've thrown was knock sensor and mine was cracked). I've gotten nowhere, and I don't know what else to check.

[rebornS14]

Originally Posted by Roscoe.

I'm at a wits end here, and any help would be appreciated. I've got a 95 OBD1 Zenki that's running shit. When started, it'll idle at 800-900, then drop to 600. Tapping throttle will pop idle back up and it'll stay at 800-900. Adding throttle, it will bog 200-300 rpm, then slowly raise. Car has noticeably less power driving, backfires like crazy, and is very stuttery. So far I've cleaned the MAF, changed Air and Fuel filters, changed spark plugs, changed fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator, checked TPS, and replaced the knock sensor (the only code I've thrown was knock sensor and mine was cracked). I've gotten nowhere, and I don't know what else to check.

i would replace the ecu coolant temp sensor and check for vacuum leaks.

[Roscoe.]

Originally Posted by rebornS14

i would replace the ecu coolant temp sensor and check for vacuum leaks.

i had the gauge coolant temp sensor give out last week so I replaced both. no vacuum leaks as far as i can tell. did have a port on the TB open to vacuum, but I have no line running to it. i capped it off and it made no difference.

[dorkidori_s13]

check your MAF wiring and CLEAN THE MAF!!!

[Grady]

Anyone know what this is worth? It's the panel under a s13 coupe's taillights in carbon fiber. I haven't seen any others around.

[Roscoe.]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

check your MAF wiring and CLEAN THE MAF!!!

Done both. Cleaned the MAF twice, and no issue at wiring.