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Old 12-05-2016, 08:29 AM   #1
1988montecarloss
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Twisted motion 2871r, anybody on here running one?

Any of you guys running the twisted motion 2871r? Any reliability issues and would it be a worthwhile swap over my S14 bb t28? I'm thinking if I could get 350-375whp out of it with tomei 256 cams I'll pick one up
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Old 12-05-2016, 08:51 AM   #2
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I have the v1 (was advised has bigger compressor wheel) and doin great after 2 years 19lbs boost...I think its the cause of my smoke, I warranteed one out and still smokes but spools great and no other issues...on t25 had no smoke and transferred to new build an still smokes a little
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Old 12-05-2016, 08:56 AM   #3
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I have the v1 (was advised has bigger compressor wheel) and doin great after 2 years 19lbs boost...I think its the cause of my smoke, I warranteed one out and still smokes but spools great and no other issues...on t25 had no smoke and transferred to new build an still smokes a little
Any idea what you're making for power? Any other mods?
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Old 12-05-2016, 09:00 AM   #4
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I used to have one on my S13 SR20. Did a lot of pulls on them on the wastegate pressure (14 psi) with no tune. It pulled pretty hard all the way to redline but the lag was noticeably there when going from off boost to 1-3 psi than the S15 turbo. Going WOT, the TM turbo gets to full boost about 500-800 rpm later than the S15 turbo @ 14 psi also. This was at about 3500-3800 rpm for TM turbo. Granted this was on a built block and head with OS valves and ported OEM IM (runners and plenum) and stock cams. TBH, for the money the TM GT2871R is a great buy but from what I heard on the web, the seals on these go bad after a year or some real abuse. I wouldn't buy these kind of turbos if I was to ever go back though (only sticking to name brands now i.e. BW or Garrett). Have you heard of the new Garrett GTX Gen 2 turbos? Flows much more than the previous gen and priced very similar. If I had stayed bottom mount, I would've went for the Gen 2 GTX2867R (apparently 450 whp capable with less lag than the 2871). You can get these Gen 2 turbos for a very good price @ turbokits. I would look at the Tomei manifolds too since it is similarly designed like the OEM manifold which promotes lower end spooling. At the end of the day, it all depends on your budget.
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Old 12-05-2016, 09:19 AM   #5
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I used to have one on my S13 SR20. Did a lot of pulls on them on the wastegate pressure (14 psi) with no tune. It pulled pretty hard all the way to redline but the lag was noticeably there when going from off boost to 1-3 psi than the S15 turbo. Going WOT, the TM turbo gets to full boost about 500-800 rpm later than the S15 turbo @ 14 psi also. This was at about 3500-3800 rpm for TM turbo. Granted this was on a built block and head with OS valves and ported OEM IM (runners and plenum) and stock cams. TBH, for the money the TM GT2871R is a great buy but from what I heard on the web, the seals on these go bad after a year or some real abuse. I wouldn't buy these kind of turbos if I was to ever go back though (only sticking to name brands now i.e. BW or Garrett). Have you heard of the new Garrett GTX Gen 2 turbos? Flows much more than the previous gen and priced very similar. If I had stayed bottom mount, I would've went for the Gen 2 GTX2867R (apparently 450 whp capable with less lag than the 2871). You can get these Gen 2 turbos for a very good price @ turbokits. I would look at the Tomei manifolds too since it is similarly designed like the OEM manifold which promotes lower end spooling. At the end of the day, it all depends on your budget.
I would love a gtx2867r but that is out of the budget for now, maybe someday haha

The biggest reason I'm considering the TM 2871r is that I can sell my bb t28 for about the same price to recoup the cost and I won't have to mess with my
Fuel system as it can already support what the TM will make, if I end up not going with it I have no problem keeping my s14 t28
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Old 12-05-2016, 09:34 AM   #6
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Just be sure to not run an oil restrictor for the turbo feed if you go for the TM turbo but I would still message them to make sure if it needs one or not.
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Old 12-05-2016, 09:44 AM   #7
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Just be sure to not run an oil restrictor for the turbo feed if you go for the TM turbo but I would still message them to make sure if it needs one or not.
Yeah I have read that if using a -4 an feed line like I have I'll need a .060 restrictor instead of the .030 I have for my ball bearing now
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:03 AM   #8
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I have a twisted motion t28 v2 on my 510 i purchused it less then a year ago willing to trade?
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:31 AM   #9
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I have a twisted motion t28 v2 on my 510 i purchused it less then a year ago willing to trade?
Gonna be awhile before I can get my car apart and I think I'm gonna go with the v1 so it drops right in place of the old one but thanks for the offer
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:54 AM   #10
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Idea with journal bearing turbos is to get as much oil flowing through it as possible. The issue is lack of drainage... 10AN drain though it is the normal is TOO SMALL, ID for the fittings/hose is too small. 12AN has the appropriate ID comparative to OEM turbo drain sizes.
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Old 12-05-2016, 11:16 AM   #11
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Idea with journal bearing turbos is to get as much oil flowing through it as possible. The issue is lack of drainage... 10AN drain though it is the normal is TOO SMALL, ID for the fittings/hose is too small. 12AN has the appropriate ID comparative to OEM turbo drain sizes.
I am still using the OEM style drain
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Old 12-05-2016, 11:19 AM   #12
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Idea with journal bearing turbos is to get as much oil flowing through it as possible. The issue is lack of drainage... 10AN drain though it is the normal is TOO SMALL, ID for the fittings/hose is too small. 12AN has the appropriate ID comparative to OEM turbo drain sizes.
You are correct. I bought -10AN stainless lines for my top mount set up as rubber would not be able to handle the heat. The ID of the 10AN line is smaller than the stock drain lines (5/8" equivalent). People believe that AN size lines are equivalent to the 16th fractions which it is not. There is a table showing the ID of AN lines so you can compare that to whatever size hose you need.
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:37 PM   #13
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edit: ended up getting a good deal on a tomei 8270 setup and went with that
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Old 12-25-2016, 07:57 PM   #14
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don't have dyno...I have toda racing 264 cams, cp 9.0:1 86.5 pistons, freddy manifold, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, 740 injectors, fmic, hks intake, z32 maf, enthalpy tune...think that's all that would affect it. Having trouble with traction atm as I figure out the setup lol!
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:09 PM   #15
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I just got my sr20 s13 with a TM 2871 spec Journal Bearing turbo, it honestly is not as bad as i thought it was going to be, the only thing is it does lag until like 3600-3800 rpm but after that in full boost it pushes hard.
Only thing i noticed, is a lot of "metal oil" in my intake tract just before my throttle body. Has any one else experienced this with these turbos? I know a little is good, but it seems like a decent amount more than normal to me.
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:58 PM   #16
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Wanted to bump this thread to ask what the hell the thread pitch is for the coolant lines? I'm making my own lines because it is going on a KA and all they gave me was "It's M11 or 7/16". Two different sizes, and even if it is 7/16, is it 7/16 -20, -24, or UNF? I've wasted time and money now on fittings that don't fit and don't feel like waiting another 2 days for them to reply with a vague response.
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Old 04-03-2017, 03:35 PM   #17
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I use the s14 lines..whatever they are...
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:10 PM   #18
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Wanted to bump this thread to ask what the hell the thread pitch is for the coolant lines? I'm making my own lines because it is going on a KA and all they gave me was "It's M11 or 7/16". Two different sizes, and even if it is 7/16, is it 7/16 -20, -24, or UNF? I've wasted time and money now on fittings that don't fit and don't feel like waiting another 2 days for them to reply with a vague response.
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I use the s14 lines..whatever they are...
Yay for Twisted Motion customer service. Since it's a knockoff Garrett, then the coolant ports are M14. Go check the drawings on the Garrett website. Jedi being able to use S14 lines supports that.
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:36 PM   #19
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Yeah I ordered M14 adapters earlier. Can't believe they told me M11. Maybe they thought I was talking about the oil feed?
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:09 PM   #20
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Ok guys. This is ridiculous. You get what you pay for.

So as stated before, they gave me the wrong thread pitches. After that, I emailed them to see if I could run a different wastegate as I didn't want to run 14psi. I was told by them that I can run an SR t28 actuator, so I ordered a new Garret actuator. It seemed too short but I ran with it. Towed my car to a dyno, overboosted to 16psi. $150 down the drain on top of gas and trailer rental. So I ordered an adjustable t28 actuator. Still too short. I modified the bracket to move it closer and it worked great. Decided to test it with a compressor first because I remember the port being rather larger. Well it's too large. Once the actuator fully opens and closes the flap catches and gets hung open. I've emailed them demanding a new turbo asap. We'll see how it goes. Just thought I'd warn everyone because my experience thus far has been less than pleasant.
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:45 PM   #21
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I have a twisted motion turbo, welded the wastegate flap shut and running a tial . been drifting with it at 18 psi for 1 1\2 year steady track abuse and still great till this day
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Old 06-19-2017, 11:39 PM   #22
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That's good to hear. If they take care of this I will happily run the turbo. I just don't want to go external right now. That said, it's just unacceptable to keep giving blatantly false information on their product. I get that they buy turbos from JMT, but they should know the basic specs like thread pitches. The port for the internal gate is really large and I'm sure would flow pretty well if it weren't for the flap getting stuck. It seems that the issue is the flap has a of wiggle room on the arm. Would it be detrimental or have an adverse long term effects if I welded it to the arm to where it didn't move at all(NOT weld the arm closed)?
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Old 06-20-2017, 12:35 PM   #23
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So the response I got today was "You need to calm down"...

These mother fuckers almost caused me to blow my motor by giving false info on THEIR product and they tell me to calm down? I can't even
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:45 PM   #24
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So the response I got today was "You need to calm down"...

These mother fuckers almost caused me to blow my motor by giving false info on THEIR product and they tell me to calm down? I can't even
Unless you are calm, the turbo does not work? Great product by Twisted Nipple
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:56 PM   #25
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Unless you are calm, the turbo does not work? Great product by Twisted Nipple
Maybe I should give it a compliment and see if it works.

Owner proceeded to tell me I don't know what i'm doing...I'm done. They sent me a turbo with a binding wastegate, but I don't know what I'm doing. Ok.

Anyone know how much it costs to rebuild a Garret 2860rs?
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Old 06-20-2017, 01:59 PM   #26
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weld the waste flap shut and pimp out exhaust manifold with a external gate. more potential and the internal wastegate
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Old 06-20-2017, 02:05 PM   #27
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weld the waste flap shut and pimp out exhaust manifold with a external gate. more potential and the internal wastegate
Everyone keeps telling me that, but I don't want to go external yet. The plan is to have a flange welded onto the .86 housing I'm about to get and install that next year when I go get retuned for cams and possibly more boost. For now I just want to run internal. I'm going to port it a little bigger and have the flapper welded solid to the arm so it doesn't have an wiggle room. If I hold it still the arm opens and closes without getting hung up, so I think this will solve my issue perfectly.
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Old 06-20-2017, 02:14 PM   #28
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Rebuild

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Maybe I should give it a compliment and see if it works.

Owner proceeded to tell me I don't know what i'm doing...I'm done. They sent me a turbo with a binding wastegate, but I don't know what I'm doing. Ok.

Anyone know how much it costs to rebuild a Garret 2860rs?
If the wheels and bearings are not damaged we can do it for $375 and we can even upgrade the compressor wheel as another option.
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