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Old 03-25-2018, 07:03 AM   #21691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e30gangsta View Post
Alright guys I have a silvia k's 1992. The car currently has a jdm vsld with 5 bolt axles. I want to run a welded in the car, but I don't want to have to buy new axles and a new diff. I was wondering if I could install a q45 5 bolt diff? It should just drop in correct?

I would obviously be looking for an open diff q45 diff. Or am I fucked since they're all vlsd?

Any help would be great thanks guys!
Jeez, lot of labor trouble when you can just pop in a 2 way and be done with it faster. I mean you should be able to save up for a Kaaz, or Cusco if you are single, quite easily
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:50 AM   #21692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e30gangsta View Post
Alright guys I have a silvia k's 1992. The car currently has a jdm vsld with 5 bolt axles. I want to run a welded in the car, but I don't want to have to buy new axles and a new diff. I was wondering if I could install a q45 5 bolt diff? It should just drop in correct?

I would obviously be looking for an open diff q45 diff. Or am I fucked since they're all vlsd?

Any help would be great thanks guys!
The guy had the money to buy a real zilvia, but doesn't have the money to buy a proper diff... let that sink in for a little bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_lol View Post
How to eliminate the turbo flutter/compressor surge completely? I installed an adjustable BOV and on both 100% VTA to 100% recirc there's always a little flutter heard on the hot pipe side.
The BOV works as it should (but the spring pre-load is not fully adjusted yet but I'm not fully sure if it makes all the difference in this?)
I do have an apexi pod and an fmic so they amplify the noise but is it possible to get rid of it without changing the intake pod?
BOV is on cold side about 12 inches from TB and recirc hose goes back to intake from there.
what type of bov?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
My blitz will open at 5psi. Anything below will flutter. It's not killing the turbo as that's a pretty low pressure. What the lowest psi your bov will open up at?

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lol, that's not how it works... what you have no spring in it at all or what? hahaha
Quote:
Originally Posted by derass View Post
And my Tial was even worse at around 10 psi.

I've found that the HKS SSQV and GReddy RS / RZ open very easily.

That being said, a small bit of flutter at part throttle isn't going to hurt anything.
Most adjustable bov's should be able to completely eliminate all flutter when used properly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
Jeez, lot of labor trouble when you can just pop in a 2 way and be done with it faster. I mean you should be able to save up for a Kaaz, or Cusco if you are single, quite easily
His next mod will probably be sticker bombing it or trailer wheels.
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Old 03-25-2018, 04:16 PM   #21693
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Originally Posted by feito View Post
Most adjustable bov's should be able to completely eliminate all flutter when used properly.
Except when they're not adjustable, like the Tial or HKS. And I can tell you from experience that the HKS will open with only a few PSI in the pipes, whereas the Tial will not open with anything less than 10 PSI.
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Old 03-25-2018, 04:26 PM   #21694
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what type of bov?
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Old 03-25-2018, 06:43 PM   #21695
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Are these real or fake bride gias seats? Here' the ad:

"Authentic Bride GIAS low max carbon kevlar seats
$1,200
Walnut, CA
selling 1 mint condition authentic and reclinable seat.
retail is about 2.2k a piece. Was going to put these in but decided to go with FRS seats and save money instead.

seat is almost like brand new

Located in West Covina





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Old 03-25-2018, 07:04 PM   #21696
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Originally Posted by turboshoebox View Post
Are these real or fake bride gias seats? Here' the ad:

"Authentic Bride GIAS low max carbon kevlar seats
$1,200
Walnut, CA
selling 1 mint condition authentic and reclinable seat.
retail is about 2.2k a piece. Was going to put these in but decided to go with FRS seats and save money instead.

seat is almost like brand new

Located in West Covina





At this point taiwanese reps are pretty much visually identical to legit jp bride seats. Best way to find out is to meet up.

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Old 03-25-2018, 07:52 PM   #21697
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They're selling $4400 worth of seats for $1200. What do you think?

Two expression generally hold true in life:

-You get what you pay for

-If it's too good to be true, it probably is

Based on the price, I think the seats are fake.
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Old 03-25-2018, 07:57 PM   #21698
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The price is for one seat only but either way tho it's looking like a replica to me

Last edited by turboshoebox; 03-25-2018 at 09:48 PM..
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Old 03-26-2018, 11:25 PM   #21699
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Is 9k racing in whittier, Ca a legit shop? they are offering the gias too for 1800 a seat out the door for brand new.

"
Country of Origin: Japan

Bride seats are authentic and comes with serial # with matching certificates. "

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Old 03-26-2018, 11:55 PM   #21700
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That's pretty close to retail. If you're willing to spend that much, just get one from an authorized Bride distributor. There are so many fakes out there, that I wouldn't trust anyone else.

http://bride-jp.com/en/distributor/
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Old 03-27-2018, 02:02 AM   #21701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboshoebox View Post
Is 9k racing in whittier, Ca a legit shop? they are offering the gias too for 1800 a seat out the door for brand new.

"
Country of Origin: Japan

Bride seats are authentic and comes with serial # with matching certificates. "

9k is about as legit as it gets.

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Old 03-27-2018, 01:14 PM   #21702
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Ok, so I picked up an SARD top feed fuel rail for my retop SR. It seems like SARD makes a top feed injector for a CA but all I see for SR is side feed. Does anyone know what injector would be compatible with this rail? I can’t seem to find a definite answer for SR anywhere. Thanks in advance!


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Old 03-27-2018, 01:52 PM   #21703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nismo. View Post
9k is about as legit as it gets.

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From what I can see there stuff is legit. I'm super afraid of spending top dollar and get fakes
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Old 03-28-2018, 12:36 PM   #21704
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My SR20 with a stock trans has 400whp and a twin disc. From what I've been reading my trans should have blown up by now.. I did a handful of drift events last summer with more to come this summer. Should I be worried?
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Old 03-31-2018, 12:01 PM   #21705
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Question about Nismo subframe bushings on a S14...

I ordered some and am gonna put them in once they arrive. Does anyone that has done this in a s14 know if you have to cut the inner sleeve out when you put these in? I am assuming you do.
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Old 03-31-2018, 03:57 PM   #21706
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Originally Posted by Sidwayz View Post
My SR20 with a stock trans has 400whp and a twin disc. From what I've been reading my trans should have blown up by now.. I did a handful of drift events last summer with more to come this summer. Should I be worried?
They like to strip the teeth off 3rd gear. So take it easy on the 3rd gear clutch kicks.
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Old 03-31-2018, 04:31 PM   #21707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidwayz View Post
My SR20 with a stock trans has 400whp and a twin disc. From what I've been reading my trans should have blown up by now.. I did a handful of drift events last summer with more to come this summer. Should I be worried?
I'd only worry about it untill it happen but I would have a z32 or z33 tranny and adapter stuff ready for when it does it happen so it's not alot of down time
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:04 PM   #21708
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Anyone recognize these wheels?

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Old 03-31-2018, 10:24 PM   #21709
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If anyone here has Nissan FAST, would you please be able to look up p/n: 62042-65f00

I cannot find what car this retainer goes to. I've searched up and down with no return. The s14 zenki retainer is 62040-65f00, however I want to make sure what this is before I try and sell it.

Thanks in advance!

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Old 04-01-2018, 09:22 AM   #21710
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Datascan is throwing code 34, wiring shows 550k ohm from connector to ecu so that is okay, grounding wiring seems good too, I cant see the sensor itself yet, but how likely the sensor itself is broken? I wouldnt want to buy a new sensor since they cost a shitload and if its for nothing...
Anyone here gotten code 34 and fixed it? I read that a lot of people replaced the sensor but code remained.

Also how hard is it to replace the sensor? Just take off intake and can I reach it then?
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:41 AM   #21711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_lol View Post
Datascan is throwing code 34, wiring shows 550k ohm from connector to ecu so that is okay, grounding wiring seems good too, I cant see the sensor itself yet, but how likely the sensor itself is broken? I wouldnt want to buy a new sensor since they cost a shitload and if its for nothing...
Anyone here gotten code 34 and fixed it? I read that a lot of people replaced the sensor but code remained.

Also how hard is it to replace the sensor? Just take off intake and can I reach it then?
What's a code 34?
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Old 04-01-2018, 01:43 PM   #21712
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What's a code 34?
Fault code - Knock sensor circuit, either wiring or sensor itself is busted I think
EDIT: I don't have CEL on though but the car runs like shit up to 4000rpm and above it runs fine and I think it's because of this code, not sure though
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Old 04-01-2018, 06:46 PM   #21713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTEC_lol View Post
Fault code - Knock sensor circuit, either wiring or sensor itself is busted I think
EDIT: I don't have CEL on though but the car runs like shit up to 4000rpm and above it runs fine and I think it's because of this code, not sure though
You can get a knock sensor for about $30 on rockauto. Or even a $7 one off eBay will work good enough to clear the code.
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:36 PM   #21714
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S14 coilover's dampening setting.
What's recommended for the S-chassis as far as front to rear bias on a street car? Im trying to compensate for the car's 'twitchiness' (slight up/down oscillating), but have read conflicting information. <- Different chassis (ff/awd)

Details on specs if needed.
S14
Stance XR1 8k/6k @ 3"- 4" drop.
40 series rubber (no stretch)
Daily driver (HWY)

P.S I do plan on contacting Stance for recomendations, however I would like to know abit more about our chassis Dynamics/ personal experiences.

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Old 04-01-2018, 11:43 PM   #21715
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^ Not sure what happened to my post after an minor edit? I'll try and correct it but if anyone got the email notification with the details on my original post, I'd appreciate it if were reposted.

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Old 04-02-2018, 12:29 AM   #21716
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My Stance GR+ 8/6k rode the exact same way no matter how I adjusted the shocks. Maybe it's just the spring rate. I replaced them with a set of HKS Hipermax which rode MUCH smoother. Not sure of the spring rate on those, but I assume they weren't as high.
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Old 04-02-2018, 11:14 AM   #21717
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My Stance GR+ 8/6k rode the exact same way no matter how I adjusted the shocks. Maybe it's just the spring rate. I replaced them with a set of HKS Hipermax which rode MUCH smoother. Not sure of the spring rate on those, but I assume they weren't as high.
Well that's Disheartening... I've read so many good things about the brand.

Commuted to work today, and noticed its really prevalent in semi low speeds. I was driving at a consistent 50 mph in traffic when I felt the Seesaw-esk sensation.

Last edited by [240sx]; 04-02-2018 at 04:34 PM..
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:29 PM   #21718
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Is it necessary to remove fuel rail when removing intake manifold? Or can it just stay attached? (SR20 low port head)
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:38 PM   #21719
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Is it necessary to remove fuel rail when removing intake manifold? Or can it just stay attached? (SR20 low port head)
fuel rail and injectors can stay... just disconnect fuel lines
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:03 PM   #21720
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Ok so I'm doing the 300zx rear e brake, hub, and caliper swap on my s13 and everything was going fine until my rotor decided it doesn't wanna going on. And on the drivers side both rotors fit perfectly but on the passenger side it just won't slide in how it should. Any ideas on what can be going with it?
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