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Old 11-05-2009, 07:23 AM   #31
s14unimog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericb382 View Post
The FSM gives procedures for a stock HG. We are talking about aftermarket HG's. I hope you wouldn't use the FSM's torque specs when torquing down ARP head studs.... Same concept.

Like I mentioned earlier, I called Apexi (the manufacturer of my HG) and asked them what they recomend for THEIR HG. They said not to use anything. I didn't and it worked perfect. Like I also mentioned earlier, there are some instances where I would deviate from their recomendations to match a specific application, but in a perfect world (head, block and front cover machined) you don't need it.
I am very aware of the differences between this installation and that of a standard OEM head gasket. With that said, I would think a MLS headgasket could use the additional "support" to seal that area. I spoke with Cosworth USA about my application and they recommended the use of liquid gasket on the front cover. I am not the kind of individual to do motor work without extensive research.

I appreciate your input and can end this debate with a few more words.

For all who read this write up:
If you feel you don't need liquid gasket and are confident that it will not leak, then don't use it. If you feel that you might need it, use it.
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:54 AM   #32
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So cosworth probably doesn't put the "additive" on their HG's that Apexi does. I was told by apexi that they put an additive on their HG so you don't need RTV. This is a perfect example of why you should contact the mfg our your particular parts for their recomendations, because every brand does things a little different.
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Old 11-06-2009, 01:15 PM   #33
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^ good point! That's an interesting bit of information about Apexi; I never knew that.
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Old 11-13-2009, 07:00 AM   #34
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just a bit of closure. I've put about 30 miles on the car since I've done the head gasket and all seems to be well. I will do a leak down soon and post those results.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:39 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s14unimog View Post
just a bit of closure. I've put about 30 miles on the car since I've done the head gasket and all seems to be well. I will do a leak down soon and post those results.
And a bit more closure for the topic.... I leakdown tested mine after my HG install with 0% leakage (shitty harbor freight tester tended to stick on 0 then shoot all the way to 100 when there was a problem.) I drove it untill my fuel pump went out during HPDE and melted my CP piston. Yes, the HG held better than the piston. Don't take this as a bash on CP at all, I love them, it was just lean as shit, no piston will hold that.... but the HG did.
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Old 11-16-2009, 10:02 AM   #36
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That is no bueno, I had a "less than intelligent" roommate that had the turbonetics single kit on his 350Z with some random reflash (bought the kit used and not complete). Long story short, he had no wideband and has gone through 3 motors (from lack of understanding the problem) and in one of those, destroyed a set of CP pistons before any head gasket issues. Without confident and correct monitoring of your A/F's you are almost guaranteed to burn your pistons down.

"The correct air/fuel ratio balance of an engine is most critical for piston longevity, durability and proper engine operation. The combination of too much fuel or too little air will have the same result – thermal growth or piston crown erosion."

Engine Builder Magazine - Heavy Duty Technology: Piston Failure Analysis
By Dennis Nail


I've been draggin ass about doing a leak down test, but I've run the motor fairly hard with no issues.
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:25 PM   #37
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i have a few quick questions. i am about to do put my motor back together. i am reusing my apexi head gasket and arp studs. i am probably going to use the copper spray on the gasket and liquid gasket on the cover area as mentioned.

note: there was nothing wrong with the hg or head before. i am replacing the bottom end/shortblock.

my question is when you put the liquid gasket on do you let it dry at all before dropping the head on? it seems to me that the weight of the head would push it all out. and at what point of the liquid setting/drying do you start the torque sequence?

and one more thing. arp recommends their moly lube to install the studs. but its just an assembly lube so can i use my redline assembly lube in lieu of the arp brand?

i was able to seal a cometic hg on my last sr20 but it was brand new. any advice helps. thanks in advance.
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Old 02-12-2016, 10:38 PM   #38
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Should I our rtv on my valve cover gasket?
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:39 PM   #39
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Rtv should only be needed on the half moons. You can use it as a bandaid, but why? Buy a new gasket!

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