Running rich?

[zfortune]

I have a manual swapped(by previous owner) 91 ka24de and I noticed it's using a lot of gas sometimes and I always shift around 2.5k-3k (breaking in new oem clutch I put in). When I bought this car about 6-8 months ago I replaced fuel filter, oil/filter, new aem cone filter(already had aem intake), new o2 sensor (old one was very black), and checked spark plugs and they seem to be in normal wear condition not black or anything like that. I checked my new O2 sensor and it's very black just like the old one. Engine idles around 750-800 after warmed up and sometimes I see it around 800-850 when I am at a light or stop sign. Sometimes I have start up problems, for example I go for a short drive and go into a store for like 5 mins, come back and try to start my car but it dies within 2-3 secs unless I apply some gas.. Sometimes I hear backfire from exhaust. Anyone have an idea what it might be?

[Kingtal0n]

Start with a compression test and check the ignition timing

Clean the maf, change the spark plugs, check for "boost leaks",

basics

[angel mkiv]

Well the black on the O2 sensor is normal since its exposed to the exhaust gases..since you have a ka24de I would say do a tune up (plugs, wires, cap and rotor) after doing so check your ignition timing with a timing light..then while your at it buy a bottle of maf cleaner and clean your Maf. I'm sure those will fix your issue.and let's just say they don't, at least you didn't waste money on things you should do anyways as maintenance.

[zfortune]

compression test - 175-180 across all 4 cylinders. Could the fuel pressure regulator be bad? Letting more fuel go through than it should.

[Ilya]

What does your exhaust tips look like? When I had a leaky injector my car did exactly that and my exhaust tips were very black and sutty.

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=558989
^here is my thread about it

[zfortune]

Well I just have worst luck ever... I took out all of my injectors one by one to check for any cracks but once I was all done and have everything reconnected the way it was before it doesn't even want to run anymore. Like it's getting over flooded now because my spark plugs are black as hell now to.
Supposedly fuel injectors supposed to "pop" back into place? I apply so much damn pressure they won't pop in. So I am thinking that's why I am flooding the engine now.

[fatduece]

Check the injector O rings they might be cracked now. I'd also check the fuel filter SOCK.

[zfortune]

Originally Posted by fatduece

Check the injector O rings they might be cracked now. I'd also check the fuel filter SOCK.

Yeah I replaced the o-rings while I was at it. And now I broke a damn pintle cap on a injector... Not in the best mood today....

[Ilya]

Originally Posted by zfortune

Yeah I replaced the o-rings while I was at it. And now I broke a damn pintle cap on a injector... Not in the best mood today....

As much as I want to say that pintle caps dont matter, that has not been my experience. Make sure you change your oil too, it is probably full of gas now.

[zfortune]

Recommended fuel injectors to buy? I know 270cc but brand and what not. I just looked over my injectors again I noticed 2 of the 4 haves a crack above the bigger o-ring seal. So I am sure it'll leak through there to. I am going to check the oil today to. Also going to buy new spark plugs.

[Ilya]

Originally Posted by zfortune

Recommended fuel injectors to buy? I know 270cc but brand and what not. I just looked over my injectors again I noticed 2 of the 4 haves a crack above the bigger o-ring seal. So I am sure it'll leak through there to. I am going to check the oil today to. Also going to buy new spark plugs.

Rockauto.com is your friend. Other than that, you dont have much choice if you want to get them local.

[zfortune]

Originally Posted by Ilya

Rockauto.com is your friend. Other than that, you dont have much choice if you want to get them local.

Yeah the O'Reilly over here only have BWD at 81.99. Anyone have experience with these? Or I can order from deatschwerks, people seem to like these.

Edit: Sooo much gas in the oil, gotta give myself a big clap of doing it wrong..... Hopefully I didn't fuck up the engine.
Edit: New plugs, oil/filter, new fuel injectors and car is running again! Still needs to burn the extra crap though. Feels like it's running a bit better, will update tomorrow since I'll be driving quite a bit.

[zfortune]

Also replaced cap and rotor, adjusted tps to .5v closed, wot was at 4.18v but now I am getting code 13, 43, and of course still using a lot of gas. Getting 15-20mpg in city. Still shifting around 2.5k-3k.
I am pretty sure my TPS is still the auto version since the car was auto from factory but I am not sure if that'll make a huge difference.

[cbeuglas]

The best way to repace o rings is buy them from nappa or nissan only.
You also need to cover them with vasolien befor you put them in otherwise you will damage the o ring when you put them in. Slight push and twist and they should pop right in. Don't be light on the vasolien.

[cbeuglas]

Tps should be .45 to .5 closed it could also be knock sensor.

[cbeuglas]

Code 13 is coolant temp sensor repace it it's the 2 wire one.

[zfortune]

yeah I am buying the coolant temp sensor tomorrow and put it in. I replaced knock sensor a month ago because it had cracks all around it and I also replaced the little harness connector with it since it was cut up by previous owner.

[zfortune]

Installed new coolant temp sensor today and cleared codes on ecu. I'll see how it goes this week(end) but even when i drove it for about 10m today the ecu still throws code 34 knock sensor. I bought the knock sensor from frsport. Been throwing it since i replaced it. Oh yeah the new sub harness fot the knock sensor only had one wire running to the knovk sensor, like the old one. Is that right? I bought it from wiring specialist so i would think it would be right
right

[zfortune]

Nevermind apparently a lot of air was still in the coolant system.

[zfortune]

Everything seems fine but this damn Code 34 knock sensor keeps coming back!!!! Went through 3 sensors and 2 subharness but it just wants to keep coming back.


I did a test, unplug tps turn on car and let it idle for like 5mins, turn off car, check ecu for codes, i got 55. I did this test again and got 55.
If i plug tps back in and let engine idle, i would get code 34 instantly.
So i guess tps might be out of spec? .45 closed, 4.21 fully open.

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by zfortune

Everything seems fine but this damn Code 34 knock sensor keeps coming back!!!! Went through 3 sensors and 2 subharness but it just wants to keep coming back.


I did a test, unplug tps turn on car and let it idle for like 5mins, turn off car, check ecu for codes, i got 55. I did this test again and got 55.
If i plug tps back in and let engine idle, i would get code 34 instantly.
So i guess tps might be out of spec? .45 closed, 4.21 fully open.

That's good for tps, try the same test disconnecting the mafs instead of tps see if the result's vary.

You should get a mafs code.


Sent from a Highly Boosted Note 4!!!

[zfortune]

Got a new auto digital meter with the auto functions and tested the tps itself and found blank spot at 5k-6.5k ohms. Closed is at .975 ohms and fully open at 8.15. So i am just going to replace it.

[zfortune]

Originally Posted by cotbu

That's good for tps, try the same test disconnecting the mafs instead of tps see if the result's vary.

You should get a mafs code.


Sent from a Highly Boosted Note 4!!!

Yeah I got code for maf only when I tried it and it idles like crap 500-600rpm, give it some gas and it'll die.
Replaced Tps set to .45. Already put like 30-40ish miles on it the past 2 days and no codes come up but today after work I check the ecu and the damn code 34 again.... Could a/f ratio be off to causing knock sensor to come up?? Like to much gas or to little or maybe even air?

[cotbu]

The code you are getting is a code for a faulty sensor, circuit or wiring. That's what cause the ecu to throw the code, but the symptoms can vary. Mainly because people tend to drive with a knock sensor code.

Now if you are truly knocking/pinging? Then switching to higher octane gas might remedy that issue. Have you checked the health of your engine, vacuum, compression, leak down or even plugs?


Sent from a Highly Boosted Note 4!!!

[zfortune]

Originally Posted by cotbu

The code you are getting is a code for a faulty sensor, circuit or wiring. That's what cause the ecu to throw the code, but the symptoms can vary. Mainly because people tend to drive with a knock sensor code.

Now if you are truly knocking/pinging? Then switching to higher octane gas might remedy that issue. Have you checked the health of your engine, vacuum, compression, leak down or even plugs?


Sent from a Highly Boosted Note 4!!!

Yes i did a compression test a while ago, 175 across all 4. Spark plugs are new and have normal wear.
I haven't done the other test though
Took a look at fuel pump strainer and it had a small forming at the bottom and a lot of dirt was in it, so i am replacing it tomorrow and maybe do a fuel pressure test whenever i find time.

[zfortune]

bring this back.... So I never fixed the code 34 and it's always coming back but I think it's actually reading correctly now and I'll explain why... So I followed fsm exactly to set timing. I am at 20 btdc with 750 idle. Then it says to do diagnostic mode II (oxygen sensor monitor) I put it in mode II ran for 2mins at 2k rpm but I am actually seeing the motor shake every 5-10 secs and hear a detonate noise coming from it. The check engine light did flash at least 5 times in 10 secs like the fsm states. Maybe I have to go back and check/adjust tps? Or what should I do. Currently have 91 octane for gas to.

New spark plugs/wires, rotor, and cap
I did check all the wiring and everything for knock sensor and it's good.