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Old 03-12-2013, 07:35 AM   #91
2muchboost
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Keep us posted if you get the trans bracket to work. Like I said I have been in contact with a few members and none of use were able to get it to install properly. The brackets goes into the chassis beautifully but the parts where the R154 mounts onto the bracket has not worked for anyone. Not sure if its any similar to the 2jz setup but the only part where I hammered in the firewall just a little bit is where the starter sits once everything was installed. It was like 1/8 of an inch from the wall so I hammered it in about a 1/4 of an inch in just to make sure it wouldnt make contact due to any movement.

Love the build....+1
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:47 AM   #92
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Might I suggest the Tomei oil block peice ? I have it and its really nice, cheap to buy also, only like 100 bucks, but you have to relocate your filter, but doing so gives you the option to also run a oil cooler.

I have the GREX oil filter relocate box so I can run -10 for a oil cooler also., but the Tomei peice would take away a lot of wory of that peice breaking again.

love your build, and the vids of you in the PARC, you have really smooth runs, keep up the great work mate
Thanks man! I'm using something different for oil cooling on the 1jz, never again with a sandwich plate lol.


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Keep us posted if you get the trans bracket to work. Like I said I have been in contact with a few members and none of use were able to get it to install properly. The brackets goes into the chassis beautifully but the parts where the R154 mounts onto the bracket has not worked for anyone. Not sure if its any similar to the 2jz setup but the only part where I hammered in the firewall just a little bit is where the starter sits once everything was installed. It was like 1/8 of an inch from the wall so I hammered it in about a 1/4 of an inch in just to make sure it wouldnt make contact due to any movement.

Love the build....+1

I have a mount I can try in the bracket tonight, Xcessive is local to me so I can see what's going on faster than most of you. I keep hearing that the holes are off. I'm happy that people dig the build, I've been through alot of bs, hoping this goes smoothly, so far so good!
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:13 AM   #93
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Jesus H Crust, you must have been nothing short of Hitler in your previous life... your luck is terrible. Looking like it is turning around for you though.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:20 AM   #94
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Jesus H Crust, you must have been nothing short of Hitler in your previous life... your luck is terrible. Looking like it is turning around for you though.
LOL, I know right? Was crazy for sure, lets hope the curse was with the SR.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:43 PM   #95
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Flocked the dash tonight. Holy shit that was not fun. Waaaaaaaay more work than one would think. I used the mini folocker at first until I got the dash cover were I was happy with it. Then gave up and just grabbed handfuls of that and started tossing it on there lol.


There is a lot of excess on there, I'll take some pics tomorrow after it's cured and shaken off.



Cut the water neck to accommodate my KA radiator.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:09 PM   #96
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Flocking the dash seriously sucked.
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:33 AM   #97
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But it looks badass.

What took so much time?
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:01 AM   #98
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But it looks badass.

What took so much time?
The "flocking process" took the most time. Putting the glue on was easy. You get this little canister:


The fibers are like dust coming out of it. Glue drying time is 10-15min, by the time I figured out how to get the dust to come out fast, the dying time was half over. Shaking it slowly worked better than trying to use it like a shake weight lol.

After I got the correct flocking texture using the mini flocker, I gave up and used handfuls of the stuff and kinda threw it on there lightly. That worked alot better, but I would use the flocker first.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:13 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by di-devol View Post
The "flocking process" took the most time. Putting the glue on was easy. You get this little canister:


The fibers are like dust coming out of it. Glue drying time is 10-15min, by the time I figured out how to get the dust to come out fast, the dying time was half over. Shaking it slowly worked better than trying to use it like a shake weight lol.

After I got the correct flocking texture using the mini flocker, I gave up and used handfuls of the stuff and kinda threw it on there lightly. That worked alot better, but I would use the flocker first.
Where did you get the material to do the flocking?
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:19 AM   #100
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Here is the write up I followed.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/254699...uede-look.html

I ordered:
a 1lb bag of black nylon suede-tex fibers
Suede-Tex Color-coordinated Undercoat Adhesive 8 oz. can -Black
and a mini flocker.

Flock It! Flocking Fibers Adhesives Applicators Supplies and Equipment

Was about $55 shipped. Came out really good, I dig it a lot.

The 8oz can of glue was just enough to do the dash. I have enough fibers left over to do another dash.
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:08 AM   #101
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come on! keep going on this project.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:03 AM   #102
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Some more pics as the interior comes together.




Anyone got a good way to get this stuff off?


Manual doors


One of the cool things I have, Conrad Grunewald's door lol.


Got the engine harness off to Fiend Performance, then we'll start on the chassis wiring soon.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:34 PM   #103
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dude nice build.. that single slammin ka you build is the shit man! mad props!
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:13 PM   #104
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Yanked the engine and started to finish her up.


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Old 03-20-2013, 09:17 PM   #105
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Quick questions on fuel cell/surge tank setup. I'm having trouble understanding everything,

1) If I get a fuel cell with a sump, do I need a surge tank?

2) If I could use a surge tank is this a proper way to set it up?(pardon my chicken scratch)


3) if you can read my writing, the two fittings on the side of the surge tank, one for return from rail, and one for low pump in, which one should be on top out of the two?



...and what's adequate low pressure? I see pumps ranging from 7-16psi, 7psi enough?
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:54 AM   #106
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@Di-Devol.....below is a good link to basic information about a fuel surge setup.

1) No, once the fuel cell has a sump you would not need to run a Surge Tank. You would use the Surge Tank setup if you are keeping the stock fuel tank and feeding the surge to and from there. (hope that makes sense.....read the article it will).

2) Really depends on your external fuel pump setup. When I was thinking about running this setup I was going to have a Walbro 255 in-tank feed into the Surge. Then on the opposite side of the Surge I was going to have 2-Bosch 044s feed from the bottom of the Surge into the fuel rail. The above design would be good for one pump if thats what your looking for.


510 – DIY Fuel Surge Tank » RatDat.com

My 2 cents...if you dont mind running a cell with a sump its a safer option. Less intricate setup with less pumps that may cause failure. Get a dual feed sumped cell with 2 bosch 044 pumps and you are good to go.
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:22 PM   #107
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Parts are finally starting to come in.

Mocking up the fuel cell.



Car goes in for the cage at the beginning of May. Then the wiring can get done.
More updates coming as parts roll in.
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:57 AM   #108
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are you getting the cage done at psi?
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:50 AM   #109
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are you getting the cage done at psi?
No, going to racetech in portland. PSI and Rhom are both to spendy for me.
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:56 PM   #110
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my old roomate had his cage done at racetech and it was 1800(6pt no gussets). JJ said they could try to match the price pretty close. idk how close pretty close is, i was planning on spending $2000 for a cage.
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:04 PM   #111
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my old roomate had his cage done at racetech and it was 1800(6pt no gussets). JJ said they could try to match the price pretty close. idk how close pretty close is, i was planning on spending $2000 for a cage.
Holy hell that's expensive for a 6pt cage! My buddy got a 6pt cage done down here by a local race shop for $600 or $100/pt
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:05 PM   #112
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Holy hell that's expensive for a 6pt cage! My buddy got a 6pt cage done down here by a local race shop for $600 or $100/pt
2k for a legal cage is cheap up here.
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:07 PM   #113
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2k for a legal cage is cheap up here.
That's nuts... lol that's 2k worth of JZ upgrades
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:07 PM   #114
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That's nuts... lol that's 2k worth of JZ upgrades
Ha, why do you think my budget came out to like 8k lol.
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:09 PM   #115
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Ha, why do you think my budget came out to like 8k lol.
Shit I'm well past 8k without a cage... This damn swap is not for the typical drifter on a budget
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:11 PM   #116
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Shit I'm well past 8k without a cage... This damn swap is not for the typical drifter on a budget
Nope, I agree.

I'm keeping the 1jz sealed, not touching anything this time.

So the budget included the cage/fuel/wiring/saftey gear.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:24 PM   #117
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Finally got the routing done for the fuel cell and surge tank.



Waiting for fittings and hoses to come.
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:47 AM   #118
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Not much of an update, testing colors for the car. Satin Indigo blue pearl seems to be the best looking. Just have to get it mixed up and start spraying now.





Car goes to Racetech on May 4th for the cage and rear bulkhead/firewall.

Picked up Achilles tire, Fiend Performance, and 425 Motorsports as sponsors as well!
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:13 AM   #119
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Got her painted. First time spraying a car with an actual gun(cheap one at that).

Painting the bumpers and skirts today.




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Old 04-28-2013, 02:32 PM   #120
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Nice build, just read through it all. One random question, how did you get one of Conrad Grunewald's doors?
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