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Old 09-02-2015, 01:10 PM   #1
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My "hanging by a thread" SR swapped S14 Kouki thread (TONS of pics&questions)

Hi all! I just picked up this ghetto 95 for what was a decent price but it turned out to be perhaps a little bit more of a project than I expected

The car was running crappy but I wasn't expecting that after a hour of driving around the turbo line that was loosely fitted blew off, lost all my oil and my oil pressure light turned on before I shut it down. I hope the motor is not blown but in the coming days I'll find out.

So anyways, I wanted to share the funny ghetto mods on this car but also had a bunch of random questions. I am open to feedback and feel free to laugh I'm still pretty amateur so go easy on me please

Here she is!









Riverside 18x8 w/advans in front and Pilot Sports in back. Two Sentra things and just picked up s2 $50 Goodyear F1's to burn too




Teins


I should be happy it doesn't leak yea?..






Looks like the housing chrome is melting or something?


cloths hanger technology


what are these for?


Um.. steel and water makes rust..




Whats this disconnected plug on the firewall?


whats this plug?


this one line has three T connectors!






Oil residue from previous blown turbo. Yeah.. no need to clean..




What model is this?


this might not be most efficient..


[B]is it okay to be exposed like this? Inside looked okay though lol/B]




Wait for it..




Maxed out on pics, more coming after thread is approved..
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:11 PM   #2
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3" HKS all the way back my ass






filter is suspended in air by fuel lines




Whoa... Do we guys run electric water pumps?..


Whats this?


Switches to electric water pump and boost controller.. Because racer NISMO of China Red switch is for "reverse light for safety inspection" LOL




Custom baller ROCKFORD FOSGATE headliner.. But wait..





Turbo line blew but luckily it was a easy job to remove everything due to the fact that half the nuts on the exhaust manifold were missing and every other bolt was a solid 5 inch pound finger torqued





Is it okay for water lines to be open like that?? I was literally able to move the oil lines with my fingers lol. The feed line was disconnected when I took it apart.


Is this thing okay??


Nice oil line, luckily the turbo doesn't sound horrible but I have no idea if its still good



Parts starting to come in!


Thank you to FRSPORT


Repainted intercooler pipes and cleaned it all out


Can someone tell me what those signal lights on the front bumper are called? I can't find them


So if you guys didn't read the above text, basically, the feed line to the turbo blew off after a hour of driving and my oil ran out till the oil light came on. I'm crossing my fingers I don't have to take on my first engine rebuild. I'll keep telling myself, I GOT IT FOR THE PLATFORM! THE PLATFORM body is straight! But anyways, I'm loving the car and am looking forward to practice drifting and having fun at the local autocross.
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:04 PM   #3
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Sweet bro, get yourself some good gauges!
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:27 PM   #4
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I worked on a car like that for a friend. He wanted me to change his turbo lines. I told him, that the only way I'd work on it is if he let me fix all the crap wrong with it in the engine bay. I pulled the engine, cleaned all the crap up, freshened up the engine with new parts he bought and put it all back together. Best way to do it imo.
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Old 09-02-2015, 05:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiewolf513 View Post
Sweet bro, get yourself some good gauges!
Thanks man! Innovate wideband on the way. Im keeping an eye out for good deals on gauges.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitsubayati View Post
I worked on a car like that for a friend. He wanted me to change his turbo lines. I told him, that the only way I'd work on it is if he let me fix all the crap wrong with it in the engine bay. I pulled the engine, cleaned all the crap up, freshened up the engine with new parts he bought and put it all back together. Best way to do it imo.
I'm hoping I won't have to pull the motor but man, it looks suuuuper easy to take out. Especially since half the bolts are already missing
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Old 09-03-2015, 01:13 AM   #6
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freshened up the engine with new parts he bought and put it all back together. Best way to do it imo.
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Old 09-03-2015, 01:28 AM   #7
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Okay so doin the work with the motor pulled is recommended, and I might just go for it but anyone have feed back on any of the above questions?
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Old 09-03-2015, 04:40 AM   #8
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Those two pipes on the driver's side chassis legs are usually hooked up to the carbon canister. They lead back to the fuel tank.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:13 AM   #9
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Jesus Christ that MAF.

Also please tell me he doesn't have the BOV and WGA on the same vac line. BOV needs a boost/vac source while the WGA needs a boost only source (different nipple on the TB).

Good luck. Seems like the car is lucky to have found someone willing to do it right.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:56 AM   #10
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oh. em. gee.

wow

thank you for saving that car.
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Jan View Post
Those two pipes on the driver's side chassis legs are usually hooked up to the carbon canister. They lead back to the fuel tank.
Rajah! Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
Jesus Christ that MAF.

Also please tell me he doesn't have the BOV and WGA on the same vac line. BOV needs a boost/vac source while the WGA needs a boost only source (different nipple on the TB).

Good luck. Seems like the car is lucky to have found someone willing to do it right.
Just checked and it does not, thanks for the tip though! PROPS MY DAWG

Quote:
Originally Posted by ka-titties View Post
oh. em. gee.

wow

thank you for saving that car.
For your guys continued viewing pleasure.. or not LOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAA pWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr +JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgM hCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YY XFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhL w7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zz gKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nY FnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://instagram.com/p/7LOm1qmCz_/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_top">A video posted by @ryukakazu</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2015-09-03T16:38:33+00:00">Sep 3, 2015 at 9:38am PDT</time></p></div></blockquote>
<script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>
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Old 09-03-2015, 11:06 AM   #12
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WOW, that's pretty much the only thing I can say. Please tell that hack artist is a member here...
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Old 09-03-2015, 11:39 AM   #13
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1. Pull the engine and transmission.
2. Clean the engine and transmission.
3. Clean the engine bay.
4. Put the shiny parts on.
5. Plop her back into her new clean home.


Also, I'd recommend getting a new harness from Wiring Specialties.
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Old 09-03-2015, 12:59 PM   #14
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imo You are going to spend more fixing it back up than just buying a next 240sx with all the proper swapped parts and clean/good engine. You have almost nothing there to work with, everything looks to be abused unfortunately.

If you are adamant on proceeding, the proper thing to do at this point is, at the very least,

pull the engine, pressure wash the engine bay with degreaser. Throw away the old fuel lines and anything rubber you can manage to replace. I recommend going one step further and removing everything from the bay including all plastics panels bolts and wires, so that you can re-paint it proper. But that is time consuming if you do not have a shop to work with and a paint booth and gun etc...


if you think the engine is still good, you need to pressure wash it as well. remove anything you can manage and paint all exposed metal surfaces with suitable paint after a degreasing/washing.

take the trans off and perform all FSM inspections. Replace flywheel if necessary. Certainly replace clutch/pplate/tobearing and the rear main seal. Check trans end play and transmission front seal for leaks.

Ditch the cheap manifold and get a stock manifold. buy oem locking tabs and a new OEM gasket. Use a new turbocharger, do not mess with used junk, especially when you see oil frothing from the bypass like that. It will cost you days of labor and all those new gaskets to find out your old turbo is shot.

Inspect the oil for metal. Remove the lower pan and inspect the oil pickup. Put a small outward dent in the lower pan (move the bottom of the oil pan away from the pickup).

Find where the wiring was done, and inspect how it was done. If the harness appears to be OEM then it was probably done by the ECU and it is probably a huge mess judging by the rest of the car, and that will give you electrical problems down the road.

Re-cut the intercooler hole at the battery tray to be circular (or at least NEAT) and protect it with rubber and paint.

For the battery, use an OEM lower engine harness (you can use one from a KA that matches the year of the 240sx if you need to) and get rid of any/all electrical tape connections. Use an OEM ground wire (if it needs to be said). You dont want patched up wiring anywhere on any car, especially with electrical tape.


Buy an aluminum sr20det radiator and some high quality sr specific hoses. Get a clutch fan/OEM shroud on the engine for best results and least maintenance. Dont forget the electric helper fan under the OEM shroud which turns on when you flip the A/C. You need a new dryer for A/C also once the system is open.

The hot-pipe IMO, needs to be re-made from 2.5" high quality U-bent material, custom cut/fit/welded is ideal, with a proper push type bypass on the hot side of course, recirculated by into the pre-turbo inlet just like factory.

If the turbo is spewing oil then the intercooler is probably full of oil residue as well. You need to get all oil out of there, and if the core is cheap chinese style, i would throw it away and get a next one. The pipes you can simply degrease carefully.

Oil for the trans is redline MT-90, dont use anything off the shelf.

those OEM front brakes need to go if you actually get the car rolling.

the rust in the radiator/engine is due to someone using tap water. You need to perform several flushes, using distilled water and your choice of radiator flush. Then drive the car for 100-5000 miles and do more flushing. Always use distilled water and mix in coolant if you need it (if your outside temperature drops to freezing you need to figure out how much coolant you will need).

Use the oem water pump....

the maf should not be exposed. I cant believe that it actually works to tell the truth. I feel like you would be better off just buying a whole new motor swap based on what I see.

you need a real downpipe (high quality) with the crossmember->downpipe bracket (IS ESSENTIAL) or you will be chasing exhaust leaks forever. For-ever.

The IACV tube (clear plastic section in the picture) looks to be coated in oil, further implicating that your turbo is bad and should not be used. It also reinforces the notion that your intercooler core is full of oil residue and should be replaced. And not to scare you, but the oil is probably frothing around inside the engine now, creating thick sludge and partially burnt hydrocarbon residues that adhere to all manner of surfaces, raising compression ratio and causing detonation and hot-spots within the engine. You need to pull the intake manifold and have a look at the runners and as much of the head and valves as you can see, and clean them if you actually intend to run the engine. The same goes for the exhaust side, look at your exhaust valves and decide if the head is going to get you the mileage you want from it. Once they get this old, there is no question the head needs new guides and springs, as you run the risk of dropping a valve.


make sure you are prepared to install: air filter bracket, ECU bracket, downpipe bracket, igniter bracket, intake manifold bracket (three bolts hold a large heavy black bracket), OEM ground wires, OEM power wires





basically you are looking a not only a complete swap, but a re-swap and re-configuration of all components. Nothing on that car looks to be done right. You can check my thread for a little checklist (first post) of all the stuff I Keep in mind.

Here is a rough breakdown of what I see you spending (budget)
lines, turbo, manifold, gaskets, downpipe, bracket, hardware $1200~
intercooler, radiator, hotpipe, bypass, fittings, couplers, hoses, clamps, $500~
harness parts, wiring repairs, OEM harnesses, details, $500~
clutch, flywheel work, pplate, tobearing, grease, seals $500~
for A/C: A/C lines, dryer, welding, recharge, wiring, $500~
misc gaskets and fluids $150

Here is what the engine will need in the near future (if it still has good engine bearings)
oil pump, guides, springs, valve job, gasket, serious cleaning, bolts $1000

If the engine bearing are bad, your best option is a next engine swap. Considering you as are were to put 1k into the head, and 1k into the turbo anyways, a whole next swap is 2k~ and you can sell off un-used parts to get something back. I Would not suggest a rebuild unless you are A: aware of the difficulties associated with sr rebuilds, B: willing to re-build the engine (or a next engine) a few times, and C: have all the necessary tools (micrometers, dial bore gauge, know how to read and understand OEM bearing stamps and their meaning)
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Old 09-03-2015, 04:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitsubayati View Post
I worked on a car like that for a friend. He wanted me to change his turbo lines. I told him, that the only way I'd work on it is if he let me fix all the crap wrong with it in the engine bay. I pulled the engine, cleaned all the crap up, freshened up the engine with new parts he bought and put it all back together. Best way to do it imo.
I wanted to do this for my friend's rigged SR swap done by Z fever in Tampa. Pull / replace / redo everything. He ended up selling the car because of problems. I could've saved it...

OP how much did you pickup your Kouki for? I got my Zenki converted Kouki for a great price and I'm in the process of SR swapping it. I'll be out about $6k by the time I'm done.
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Jan View Post
Those two pipes on the driver's side chassis legs are usually hooked up to the carbon canister. They lead back to the fuel tank.
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyced View Post
Jesus Christ that MAF.

Also please tell me he doesn't have the BOV and WGA on the same vac line. BOV needs a boost/vac source while the WGA needs a boost only source (different nipple on the TB).

Good luck. Seems like the car is lucky to have found someone willing to do it right.
BOV and WGA look to be separated, thanks for the tip

Quote:
Originally Posted by ka-titties View Post
oh. em. gee.

wow

thank you for saving that car.
"ka-titties"

Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_ss View Post
WOW, that's pretty much the only thing I can say. Please tell that hack artist is a member here...
:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitsubayati View Post
1. Pull the engine and transmission.
2. Clean the engine and transmission.
3. Clean the engine bay.
4. Put the shiny parts on.
5. Plop her back into her new clean home.


Also, I'd recommend getting a new harness from Wiring Specialties.
Sounds easy enough, I'll do it tomorrow morning before brekky
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Old 09-04-2015, 01:01 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
imo You are going to spend more fixing it back up than just buying a next 240sx with all the proper swapped parts and clean/good engine. You have almost nothing there to work with, everything looks to be abused unfortunately.

If you are adamant on proceeding, the proper thing to do at this point is, at the very least,

pull the engine, pressure wash the engine bay with degreaser. Throw away the old fuel lines and anything rubber you can manage to replace. I recommend going one step further and removing everything from the bay including all plastics panels bolts and wires, so that you can re-paint it proper. But that is time consuming if you do not have a shop to work with and a paint booth and gun etc...


if you think the engine is still good, you need to pressure wash it as well. remove anything you can manage and paint all exposed metal surfaces with suitable paint after a degreasing/washing.

take the trans off and perform all FSM inspections. Replace flywheel if necessary. Certainly replace clutch/pplate/tobearing and the rear main seal. Check trans end play and transmission front seal for leaks.

Ditch the cheap manifold and get a stock manifold. buy oem locking tabs and a new OEM gasket. Use a new turbocharger, do not mess with used junk, especially when you see oil frothing from the bypass like that. It will cost you days of labor and all those new gaskets to find out your old turbo is shot.

Inspect the oil for metal. Remove the lower pan and inspect the oil pickup. Put a small outward dent in the lower pan (move the bottom of the oil pan away from the pickup).

Find where the wiring was done, and inspect how it was done. If the harness appears to be OEM then it was probably done by the ECU and it is probably a huge mess judging by the rest of the car, and that will give you electrical problems down the road.

Re-cut the intercooler hole at the battery tray to be circular (or at least NEAT) and protect it with rubber and paint.

For the battery, use an OEM lower engine harness (you can use one from a KA that matches the year of the 240sx if you need to) and get rid of any/all electrical tape connections. Use an OEM ground wire (if it needs to be said). You dont want patched up wiring anywhere on any car, especially with electrical tape.


Buy an aluminum sr20det radiator and some high quality sr specific hoses. Get a clutch fan/OEM shroud on the engine for best results and least maintenance. Dont forget the electric helper fan under the OEM shroud which turns on when you flip the A/C. You need a new dryer for A/C also once the system is open.

The hot-pipe IMO, needs to be re-made from 2.5" high quality U-bent material, custom cut/fit/welded is ideal, with a proper push type bypass on the hot side of course, recirculated by into the pre-turbo inlet just like factory.

If the turbo is spewing oil then the intercooler is probably full of oil residue as well. You need to get all oil out of there, and if the core is cheap chinese style, i would throw it away and get a next one. The pipes you can simply degrease carefully.

Oil for the trans is redline MT-90, dont use anything off the shelf.

those OEM front brakes need to go if you actually get the car rolling.

the rust in the radiator/engine is due to someone using tap water. You need to perform several flushes, using distilled water and your choice of radiator flush. Then drive the car for 100-5000 miles and do more flushing. Always use distilled water and mix in coolant if you need it (if your outside temperature drops to freezing you need to figure out how much coolant you will need).

Use the oem water pump....

the maf should not be exposed. I cant believe that it actually works to tell the truth. I feel like you would be better off just buying a whole new motor swap based on what I see.

you need a real downpipe (high quality) with the crossmember->downpipe bracket (IS ESSENTIAL) or you will be chasing exhaust leaks forever. For-ever.

The IACV tube (clear plastic section in the picture) looks to be coated in oil, further implicating that your turbo is bad and should not be used. It also reinforces the notion that your intercooler core is full of oil residue and should be replaced. And not to scare you, but the oil is probably frothing around inside the engine now, creating thick sludge and partially burnt hydrocarbon residues that adhere to all manner of surfaces, raising compression ratio and causing detonation and hot-spots within the engine. You need to pull the intake manifold and have a look at the runners and as much of the head and valves as you can see, and clean them if you actually intend to run the engine. The same goes for the exhaust side, look at your exhaust valves and decide if the head is going to get you the mileage you want from it. Once they get this old, there is no question the head needs new guides and springs, as you run the risk of dropping a valve.


make sure you are prepared to install: air filter bracket, ECU bracket, downpipe bracket, igniter bracket, intake manifold bracket (three bolts hold a large heavy black bracket), OEM ground wires, OEM power wires





basically you are looking a not only a complete swap, but a re-swap and re-configuration of all components. Nothing on that car looks to be done right. You can check my thread for a little checklist (first post) of all the stuff I Keep in mind.

Here is a rough breakdown of what I see you spending (budget)
lines, turbo, manifold, gaskets, downpipe, bracket, hardware $1200~
intercooler, radiator, hotpipe, bypass, fittings, couplers, hoses, clamps, $500~
harness parts, wiring repairs, OEM harnesses, details, $500~
clutch, flywheel work, pplate, tobearing, grease, seals $500~
for A/C: A/C lines, dryer, welding, recharge, wiring, $500~
misc gaskets and fluids $150

Here is what the engine will need in the near future (if it still has good engine bearings)
oil pump, guides, springs, valve job, gasket, serious cleaning, bolts $1000

If the engine bearing are bad, your best option is a next engine swap. Considering you as are were to put 1k into the head, and 1k into the turbo anyways, a whole next swap is 2k~ and you can sell off un-used parts to get something back. I Would not suggest a rebuild unless you are A: aware of the difficulties associated with sr rebuilds, B: willing to re-build the engine (or a next engine) a few times, and C: have all the necessary tools (micrometers, dial bore gauge, know how to read and understand OEM bearing stamps and their meaning)
great news! the turbo is actually new, the old t28 that blew has been replaced with the one on it now. I don't hear any weird sounds and normal shaft play so I'm crossing my fingers. I will clean that intake manifold because it is dirty in there but the intercooler wasn't that bad and I already cleaned it out so those are good Also, I don't need a/c for this car in Hawaii so no worries about that. So yeah, I'ma follow a lot of what you said and look into it all, thanks so much for all that info!! PROPS! So I'm hoping that my motor is not blown and that I will only need a grand or two to get this think runnin top. I guess I'll know better of what to do when I try to fire it up But yes, I am wiling to go the distance!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank_Jaeger View Post
I wanted to do this for my friend's rigged SR swap done by Z fever in Tampa. Pull / replace / redo everything. He ended up selling the car because of problems. I could've saved it...

OP how much did you pickup your Kouki for? I got my Zenki converted Kouki for a great price and I'm in the process of SR swapping it. I'll be out about $6k by the time I'm done.
$4,200 locally in Hawaii, it's not a bad deal.... RUNNING
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Old 09-04-2015, 07:24 PM   #18
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Ready to pull the motor!



[COLOR="rgb(0, 191, 255)"]The gift that keeps on giving! [/COLOR]





[COLOR="rgb(0, 191, 255)"]Bye bye A/C & Electric water pump![/COLOR]



[COLOR="rgb(0, 191, 255)"]I'm gonna refurbish head light[/COLOR]







[COLOR="rgb(0, 191, 255)"]power wash time[/COLOR]


[COLOR="rgb(0, 191, 255)"]Lots of thanks[/COLOR]


[COLOR="rgb(0, 191, 255)"]found out both left side buttons are interchangeable in terms of fit. (I'm missing one)[/COLOR]









[COLOR="rgb(0, 191, 255)"]has foam sound deadener all over[/COLOR]


damn it how do i embed a video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZA3iA0uPXXQ
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:26 PM   #19
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240s have this thing with the sides of the trunk areas, there always seems to be some toys/change/goop (I use the term loosely). One of the first things i do is empty the trunk completely, both sides, and wash it with degreaser (there are plugs to run water out on both sides and in the middle of the trunk area, take them all out and be liberal with water) and inspect the seam glues, then paint inside the seam glues (pics in my thread, again) to prevent future rust.

You seem commited, best of luck, I enjoy seeing your pictures and if you keep posting I will add whatever I can along the way.

As to your pictures above about the headlight, the "chrome falling apart" is a common feature on all 240s (it isn't just yours) however the way it is strapped up, and the cheap HID component are an eye sore. I would go back to halogens, or use some REAL HID retrofit lamps (Like lexus RX300 with philips bulbs, w/ modified plates). I actually have a set but the cost is preventive (est. $800 to retrofit with real ballasts and modifications).

You can save some money by sourcing an OEM exhaust system. The factory exhaust will support 300rwhp and is perfect for a stock sr20det. Its exactly the same thing on our cars that comes on JDM silvia with sr20det anyways.
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:50 PM   #20
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. I Would not suggest a rebuild unless you are A: aware of the difficulties associated with sr rebuilds, B: willing to re-build the engine (or a next engine) a few times, and C: have all the necessary tools (micrometers, dial bore gauge, know how to read and understand OEM bearing stamps and their meaning)

Put a small outward dent in the lower pan (move the bottom of the oil pan away from the pickup).

Talon- Can you elaborate on why you advise against a rebuild? Common mistakes, issues, etc.

Also please explain why denting the oil pan outward (I assume to reduce the chance of oil starvation)?
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:17 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14kouki805 View Post
. I Would not suggest a rebuild unless you are A: aware of the difficulties associated with sr rebuilds, B: willing to re-build the engine (or a next engine) a few times, and C: have all the necessary tools (micrometers, dial bore gauge, know how to read and understand OEM bearing stamps and their meaning)

Put a small outward dent in the lower pan (move the bottom of the oil pan away from the pickup).

Talon- Can you elaborate on why you advise against a rebuild? Common mistakes, issues, etc.

Also please explain why denting the oil pan outward (I assume to reduce the chance of oil starvation)?
Denting the pan outward is cheap insurance. Many an sr has failed because the space between the pickup and pan were too small.

Here is a small list (I stopped keeping track) of sr20's that failed shortly after being built

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=535520
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=569861
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=5765974
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=579996
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=586960

The common theme is, even experienced engine builders have trouble with this engine.
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:48 PM   #22
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That's basically every 240 out there, no real surprise. At least the chasis/body look pretty clean.

Most likely you don't need another engine, Kingtal0n is just being overly anal and fussy because that's who he is. However, most of the stuff he's mentioning needs to be done. Go over the ENTIRE car from front to back, top to bottom, with a fine toothed comb. You'll find all sorts of awesome surprises. Check the engine and drivetrain thoroughly and do ALL the maintenance items. You could hook up a battery to the starter even with the engine out of the car and do a compression test just to verify it's good. Good luck, you appear to be taking the time to put it together correctly.
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:14 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
240s have this thing with the sides of the trunk areas, there always seems to be some toys/change/goop (I use the term loosely). One of the first things i do is empty the trunk completely, both sides, and wash it with degreaser (there are plugs to run water out on both sides and in the middle of the trunk area, take them all out and be liberal with water) and inspect the seam glues, then paint inside the seam glues (pics in my thread, again) to prevent future rust.

You seem commited, best of luck, I enjoy seeing your pictures and if you keep posting I will add whatever I can along the way.

As to your pictures above about the headlight, the "chrome falling apart" is a common feature on all 240s (it isn't just yours) however the way it is strapped up, and the cheap HID component are an eye sore. I would go back to halogens, or use some REAL HID retrofit lamps (Like lexus RX300 with philips bulbs, w/ modified plates). I actually have a set but the cost is preventive (est. $800 to retrofit with real ballasts and modifications).

You can save some money by sourcing an OEM exhaust system. The factory exhaust will support 300rwhp and is perfect for a stock sr20det. Its exactly the same thing on our cars that comes on JDM silvia with sr20det anyways.
Big RAJAH on the oem exhaust! I won't be going for more than what the stock t28 can handle anyways. As for "goop" thing, theres also a bunch of foam down there, I wonder if I should empty it out and clean it or just leave it. It seems to help deaden sound.. For lights, yeah, halogen's sound like best thing to do.. The $$$ keep adding up..



Quote:
Originally Posted by racepar1 View Post
That's basically every 240 out there, no real surprise. At least the chasis/body look pretty clean.

Most likely you don't need another engine, Kingtal0n is just being overly anal and fussy because that's who he is. However, most of the stuff he's mentioning needs to be done. Go over the ENTIRE car from front to back, top to bottom, with a fine toothed comb. You'll find all sorts of awesome surprises. Check the engine and drivetrain thoroughly and do ALL the maintenance items. You could hook up a battery to the starter even with the engine out of the car and do a compression test just to verify it's good. Good luck, you appear to be taking the time to put it together correctly.
Yeah it drove straight as an arrow and the body was straight and if I can get this all done with a $2k, its going to be a lot of car for $6,500
But yes, I'll go over everything and will do all the maintenance. Ill keep this thread updated with my "surprises"

So wheres what I'm doing now until I get to the motor.. I think I'll try to make a how-to and give a minuscule contribution to this awesome forum. How-to wash the cloth seats:.. No directions but just loading up pics so eh.. LOL[




















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Old 09-05-2015, 03:09 AM   #24
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Ah crap, I think I just learned that I have a bb t28 (code 14411-69F00, good news actually lol) Did I buy the wrong lines? I remember something about a restrictor
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:52 AM   #25
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Boy, that's a lot of effort to wash those eats. I always just use a shitload of simple green and a hose, without disassembling anything...
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:20 PM   #26
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Boy, that's a lot of effort to wash those eats. I always just use a shitload of simple green and a hose, without disassembling anything...
I'm going to refoam the drivers side seat too Never tried it but I'll give it a shot. Its also simply the best way to get ALL the build up off. It's going to be fresh smelling







swaybar contact, need to get the suspension dailed in


axle boot is ripped, also need tierods..


grounds hangin all over lol
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:14 PM   #27
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more surprises!







drivers side


passenger side

This for the downpipes brackets? Either way there should be bolts there!


?




Can anyone tell me what short shifter this is? I might need new bushings or springs or something.




By the way, I don't know anything about the sound system lol
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Old 09-10-2015, 03:36 PM   #28
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update:
My buddy and I got it out no problem


cleaned off like 10lb of oil crap from the trans tunnel and subframe lol




Might have a issue with turbo oil feed.. I've ordered the banjo and Illl hope the thread is good






Fixed valve stem on two wheels, turns out the previous owner drilled the hole bigger because he couldn't find the needed ones.


Today I'm going to take off the transmission and inspect the clutch and what not.

I'm thinking I'll repaint the engine bay. White white white
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:01 PM   #29
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Nice. I just got into the same scenario as you but with a zenki. Good luck I'm rooting for ya!
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:14 PM   #30
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pressure clean the bay and engine. Cover the igniter, CAS, and all oil ports.
Use some kind of degreaser (purple power or something) and a parts washer brush for the edges/corners. If you intend to paint you will also want to wipe it down with some powerful solvent before painting. Usually there is a "prep wipe" to use while the car is sitting in the paint booth right before you spray it. It sounds like you intend to rattle can it though, so do not overlook this prep step.

Also if you intend to run the head without a valve-job (among other maint.) you will at least want to pull the intake and clean (use brake cleaner and paper towels) all the carbon soot coating the ports. There is also something the V8 guys are doing, that is, using crushed walnut shells to clean the valves, if you are interested I can provide some links, it can be done using all harbor freight materials and makes the valves look almost new again.

For your oil outlet (to turbo from block) this is a common issue when you have over-used (about 5 tries is all we seem to get) the threads. A long time ago the thing to do was heli-coil it and pray none of the shaving from your drill get into the engine. I hope yours does not come to this.

If you can manage, use the supplied braided hose banjo bolt in the existing threads if all all possible. Do not over tighten them. Better to have it leak a little bit on startup, then snug it tight, than to OVER-tighten it up-front, and later have to remove it for some reason damaging the threads.

For your shifter, I recommend an OEM shifter, brand new shifter bushing (very important and cheap), and a new seal for the boot. A very common problem with SR trans is the fluid will fly out of the shifter hole and coat everything, giving the constant smell of gear oil in the car. To prevent this, be extra careful while installing your fresh new shifter seal(s). I actually made a second seal out of high temp rubber hose (rated at 450*F for gasoline) to help seal up that hole, since it is such a common problem for fluid to escape.

It does look like your trans is missing bolts. But I feel like this is the least of your worries right now, judging by everything else.

You need all new exhaust gaskets for the turbo re-install. I am not sure when you are planning this, however, to repeat what I mentioned earlier, you will want the OEM locking tabs, OEM manifold gasket, and you will probably want to buy new studs and nuts for the manifold as well. Also, keep in mind the mating surface between manifold/turbo will require a STRONG SIGNIFICANT cleaning, it took me almost an hour with a wire wheel (a big, high speed industrial wheel) to slowly work the carbon buildup off the surface. You would be surprised how much is there, and how it can look like metal but is in fact a carbon sheet.

Annnd.. that oil return line needs to go. Thats what we call in the business an engine death hose. You want a high quality braided piece of hose for the oil return duty.
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