Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[91stockcoupe]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

4,000 rpm on a ka!!!! How!?

Little better description would help. What do you mean by "hesitation"

Kind of like a very slight bogging, like if I was giving it a little gas and letting off really fast

[jared420sx]

1:check your maf
Is it dirty?
Clean it
Clean ? Ok now unplug it
Does it run fine after unplugged?
Its your maf
Still runs like shit?
Check if you throw a code?
Check your tps

[David48]

Don't listen to that advice, it's terrible. NEVER clean your maf sensor. 11 times out of 10 you'll damage it. Parts store maf cleaners are gunky and suck. Brake cleaner isn't suitable for sensors. Just because you unplug your maf and the car runs better doesn't mean your maf is the problem, it just makes the ECU go to limp mode and dump fuel into the motor with a 3k rpm rev limit.

The potential problems do include a bad maf, but could also be low fuel pressure, low voltage, bad spark, etc. Your verbal description isn't very clear so it could be a wide range of things. Start by checking your plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. If you have a friend with the same car, try borrowing their maf to see if it fixes the problem. Also, try checking voltage at idle and at 2k rpm. It shouldn't be below 13v.

[jared420sx]

*says not to listen to my advice* *relists my advice* dude youre a schmuck (☝︎ ՞ਊ ՞)☝︎ Fuck you florida

[David48]

Don't take it to heart kid. I've seen the stuff you post and understand that you haven't been around 240s very long, or at the very least don't know too much about how to work on them. When someone says "clean your maf" that raises red flags.

[jared420sx]

If you wana get petty in the diw thread you know where to find me florida.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Any suggestions for reliable daily cars in the 4-7k$ range? Considering picking up a 97 Honda Accord w/ 54k miles on it, and very few flaws*.

*major accident
*qtr panel damage

Lmao, carfax saved the day.

G35, Sentra, Versa, 09 up Maxima, Altima Coupe in that order....or a really nice stock, clean 240 for the 4500 - 5000, then sort it with the rest

[David48]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

If you wana get petty in the diw thread you know where to find me florida.

I'll pass because I have this cool thing called maturity.
I've been working on 240s for over 7 years and it's currently my day job at a very reputable performance shop. I taught myself most of what I know, and it was largely from forums when they were in their heyday. I'm just here to give back. Grow up and don't get offended when someone calls you out on bad info.

[DJTTon]

Could try spraying carb cleaner or iacv cleaner into the iacv hose.

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[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by David48

... NEVER clean your maf sensor. 11 times out of 10 you'll damage it.

I clean my Maf every oil change, (every 6weeks[+/-]), and have done so for the last three years... no issues.¯\_(ツ)_/¯.


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[dorkidori_s13]

ive been cleaning my MAF for 3-4 years now... no problems! theyre not as temperamental as claimed to be. they WILL cause issues if you let them get dirty though. oil/dirt cause the sensor to numb itself and air velocity will be detected inaccurately when gummed up.

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by David48

Don't listen to that advice, it's terrible. NEVER clean your maf sensor. 11 times out of 10 you'll damage it. Parts store maf cleaners are gunky and suck.

How many MAF sensors have you cleaned, then had negative results?

Ive cleaned several, then give a gentle touch of compressed air and never have issues.

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

why in gods name do you want to use a charcoal canister?! if youre thinking youre gonna pass smog legally with it by fooling the inspection on visual, its not gonna happen! the SR didnt use an EGR setup at all... the AIV inducts air into the 02 housing or downpipe (i cant remember which). oh, so youll also either need an OE downpipe/02 housing or to cut a hold and weld a bung in.

but if you MUST run one, I believe its setup mimics the USDM layout identically... though youre going to need an OE SR AIV and boost solenoid setup which are EXTREMELY hard to come by these days.

SR AIV Setup (top part of circled):


SR boost solenoid + mounting plate:


SR Air Damper box:

Pass smog? Lmao no, I'm just tired of the gas smell. But the canister is separate from the EAI valve and is hooked up directly to the intake manifold, that's why I was wondering how it would be regulated or if it's going to be just open.




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[dorkidori_s13]

if youre getting a gas smell in your engine bay, then its got nothing to do with your charcoal canister. its coming from elsewhere. my guess is, you still have the hard line that runs to the bottom of the charcoal canister still hooked up the 1 way check valve near your fuel tank.

if youve removed your charcoal canister, you need to get under the rear of the car and remove the 1 way check valve by your gas tank. it can actually cause your gas tank to blow up if not hooked up to a vacuum source (which it usually is when running a charcoal canister). the check valve is pulled open via vacuum to allow excess gasoline fumes and fuel tank pressure to be vented into the charcoal canister and routed back into the intake manifold so it can be burned off in the cylinder chambers.

i just pulled the hose off and ziptied it to a spot under the car for it drain straight down to the asphalt should it ever drip fuel. throw the check valve in the garbage as its probably bad anyway (20+ year old check valves are usually shot from dry rot anyway)

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

if youre getting a gas smell in your engine bay, then its got nothing to do with your charcoal canister. its coming from elsewhere. my guess is, you still have the hard line that runs to the bottom of the charcoal canister still hooked up the 1 way check valve near your fuel tank.

if youve removed your charcoal canister, you need to get under the rear of the car and remove the 1 way check valve by your gas tank. it can actually cause your gas tank to blow up if not hooked up to a vacuum source (which it usually is when running a charcoal canister). the check valve is pulled open via vacuum to allow excess gasoline fumes and fuel tank pressure to be vented into the charcoal canister and routed back into the intake manifold so it can be burned off in the cylinder chambers.

i just pulled the hose off and ziptied it to a spot under the car for it drain straight down to the asphalt should it ever drip fuel. throw the check valve in the garbage as its probably bad anyway (20+ year old check valves are usually shot from dry rot anyway)

I don't have a charcoal canister right now, that line is open in the engine bay, hence why I wanted to hook it back up. I only notice the smell on hot as fuck days (esp last couple days) My understanding was that valve is checked out of the gas tank only and into the canister. And once the motor runs with vac applied the canisters valve opens allowing the vapors in the can to get sucked in for combustion. Or am I wrong?


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[dorkidori_s13]

sounds about right... remove the check valve on the underside of your car to get rid of fuel vapors being emitted into the engine bay thru the hard line. again, just ziptie the rubber line that was attached to the check valve up to something on the underside of the gas tank area so it drips straight down should it ever drip (and im talking about in the BACK of the car).

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

if youre getting a gas smell in your engine bay, then its got nothing to do with your charcoal canister. its coming from elsewhere. my guess is, you still have the hard line that runs to the bottom of the charcoal canister still hooked up the 1 way check valve near your fuel tank.

if youve removed your charcoal canister, you need to get under the rear of the car and remove the 1 way check valve by your gas tank. it can actually cause your gas tank to blow up if not hooked up to a vacuum source (which it usually is when running a charcoal canister). the check valve is pulled open via vacuum to allow excess gasoline fumes and fuel tank pressure to be vented into the charcoal canister and routed back into the intake manifold so it can be burned off in the cylinder chambers.

Shit, good to know, I always kinda wondered why in my last 240, there was always a lot of fume pressure when I took the gas cap off. I didn't have my shit hooked up either

[derass]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Any suggestions for reliable daily cars in the 4-7k$ range? Considering picking up a 97 Honda Accord...

I just bought a 2006 Accord SE w/75k for $5k for a daily driver. It's a fantastic car.

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

my guess is, you still have the hard line that runs to the bottom of the charcoal canister still hooked up the 1 way check valve near your fuel tank...the check valve is pulled open via vacuum to allow excess gasoline fumes and fuel tank pressure to be vented into the charcoal canister...

This doesn't seem right. If you have pressure and vacuum acting in the same direction, a check-valve won't do anything. A counter-example is how the check-valve works with the brake booster: engine vacuum is allowed to pull on the booster diaphragm, whereas boost pressure is not allowed to pass.

[dorkidori_s13]

look, all im saying is theres a check valve AFTER the gas tank that runs up TO the engine bay and lets out in the charcoal canister. it NEEDS to be removed when youre NOT using the charcoal canister otherwise pressure in the gas tank is not properly released... good fucking god do i have to google EVERYTHING for you guys now?!?!?

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=503574

REMOVE THE CHECK VALVE!!!!!

[derass]

I stand corrected. Thanks for the link. It appears the EVAP check-valve is a bit more complex than the one used for the brake booster and is able to function as I doubted.

[jared420sx]

How do i turn this so i can get the thing onto the tie rod the right way never seen it turned like this before


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[jared420sx]

the right way it should be


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[S-Nation S13]

One quick question been seeing a lot of here say I need a definite answer please

NGK BKR7E's are they the same as the NGK 4644's ? Auto part store says they cross reference but I want to know if any of you sr guru's have used 4644's

I have NGK BKR6E's would they be sufficient?

SR20DET red/ t25/smic (as bae-sic as it gets)

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[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

How do i turn this so i can get the thing onto the tie rod the right way never seen it turned like this before


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This might have something to do with your issue.


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[derass]

You can either get a rack from a '90+ or cut new slots into the old rack. But I'd be worried about them breaking.

[TheRealSy90]

How does the R32 rear seat back secure to the chassis? The bottom of it looks like the points would line up perfectly in an s13. But the back part doesn't appear to have any points that secure it. Would be rad to have r32 fronts and rears in a 13.


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[smoked240]

Everytime I fuel up my tank is under pressure. Since I went RB I disconnected my cannister. All makes sense now.

[blksylv]

Hey, how do you change the bulbs on navan s14 fog lights? Ive taken them apart all the way down to the reflector and still can't access the bulb enough to remove it.

[iHateMySilvia]

Originally Posted by blksylv

Hey, how do you change the bulbs on navan s14 fog lights? Ive taken them apart all the way down to the reflector and still can't access the bulb enough to remove it.

I'll open mine tomorrow and send you some pictures


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[blksylv]

Cool sounds good. Thanks