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Old 06-23-2018, 09:48 AM   #631
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Bumping it back alive, have an update. I still run the suprastore 2jz adapter on a later model internal slave CD/JK40C trans in my S13, 98 q45 diff with j30 axles. I've launched the car (no prep) off 20psi anti-lag on 275/40/17 drag radials with no problems, it takes it like a champ. The only issue I still have is the transmission is hard to get into gear at a stop. I'm using a quartermaster internal slave and the factory s13 master cylinder with a spec stage3+ clutch. The car also tends to creep forward when you are in 1st and let off the brake. The clutch (pedal travel) engages about 2in from the top (3/4 way up) and feels normal. I did have a pilot bushing get eaten alive last season and I'm wondering if it happened again even tho I installed a new adapter and bushing last season. It seemed to be causing the input shaft to hang up. Or is my master cylinder or slave not traveling far enough? Maybe shit mating angle even tho I run the bell housing Dow pins somehow? I really don't enjoy pulling the trans out every 1k miles to repair/try to figure out this issue lol.
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Old 06-23-2018, 10:49 AM   #632
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Whats your air gap set at ? Stoper on the clutch pedal since you run a hydro release ? You have dowel pins on your adaptor kit ?
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:57 AM   #633
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Not sure on the gap off the top of my head, using a quartermaster slave and shimmed it according to the instructions. I do have dowel pins. I can adjust the master cylinder rod out and it makes no difference which is why I think it's an alignment or input shaft issue. I need to pull the trans and inspect the pilot bushing again. I know I did have a bit of side to side play with the input shaft, but I couldn't find a spec in the 370z fsm for that.
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Old 06-24-2018, 10:14 AM   #634
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I FINALLY mocked up the CD009 (Maverick Motorsports adapter) to my SR. Once it was all put together, my bud decided to remove the fork boot and check the gap on the TOB to pressure plate fingers. I’m glad we did! It barely touches the pressure plate fingers at full engagement. I’m using the stock pivot ball (shorty), stock Z33 fork, and stock Z33 TOB/carrier. I now know I have to use the SR20 TOB, but I wonder if thatll be enough (should I get the taller pivot ball). Here’s some pics









Holy shit these pictures are huge. Sorry about that let me try and edit the size
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Old 07-17-2018, 03:11 PM   #635
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Anyone know where to get the plugs/pigtail for the reverse and neutral switches?? Are they interchangeable with any other Nissan??
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:44 PM   #636
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Anyone know where to get the plugs/pigtail for the reverse and neutral switches?? Are they interchangeable with any other Nissan??
Do you have good pictures? I have a few sites I can check for connectors.
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:11 PM   #637
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Do you have good pictures? I have a few sites I can check for connectors.

Sent you a PM

Anyone else have any ideas??
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Old 07-19-2018, 03:55 AM   #638
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Old 07-19-2018, 03:57 AM   #639
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I FINALLY mocked up the CD009 (Maverick Motorsports adapter) to my SR. Once it was all put together, my bud decided to remove the fork boot and check the gap on the TOB to pressure plate fingers. I’m glad we did! It barely touches the pressure plate fingers at full engagement. I’m using the stock pivot ball (shorty), stock Z33 fork, and stock Z33 TOB/carrier. I now know I have to use the SR20 TOB, but I wonder if thatll be enough (should I get the taller pivot ball). Here’s some pics









Holy shit these pictures are huge. Sorry about that let me try and edit the size
Change your bearing carrier to ajust the air gap . Aim for .150/.200 inch

Here is a list of carriers from nissan

12mm : 30501-A3800
14mm : 30501-N1601
16mm : 30501-U0200
18mm 30501-S0200 (Z33)
22mm : 30501-S0160 (Z32)
24mm : 30501-K0404 (S13/S14)
26mm : 30501-K0510 (D21 Frontier / Xterra)
28mm : 30501-N1600 (D22 Frontier / Z31 Turbo) [07/83 - 09/86]
32mm : 30501-U8584 (D40)

I did that on my buddy s14 ... im sure you can figure it out with my drawing
https://www.instagram.com/p/BKj-KCKA...=15cklkfmhg7no
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Old 07-23-2018, 05:22 PM   #640
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I went with a D21 carrier with I did an OsGiken twin disc clutch with my Mazworks conversion bell housing. Not that it's relevant to that guys issue lol.
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Old 08-03-2018, 06:07 PM   #641
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I was also running the 3.9 j30 diff and wasn't a fan of cruising at 70mph in 6th at 3kish rpms. I swapped in the 97-01 q45 3.6 now its at 75-80mph at 3k in 6th and 1st gear is much easier to deal with.
I'm picking up a KA-T car with a cd009 but has a stock 4.08 rear end. What's the preferred or best diff to match this transmission? J30, Q45 or Z33? It'll be a daily driver with occasional sprinted mountain drives and highway runs. I can pick up a Z33 for $100 at the moment but worried about axle fitment... any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Tons of good info in here! The speedo isn't working at the moment but I believe I've nailed that portion reading through all these pages!
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Old 08-03-2018, 06:31 PM   #642
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I'm picking up a KA-T car with a cd009 but has a stock 4.08 rear end. What's the preferred or best diff to match this transmission? J30, Q45 or Z33? It'll be a daily driver with occasional sprinted mountain drives and highway runs. I can pick up a Z33 for $100 at the moment but worried about axle fitment... any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Tons of good info in here! The speedo isn't working at the moment but I believe I've nailed that portion reading through all these pages!
Z34 3.69 would be a good match, same ratio as JDM S14/S15. Also depends on how much low end torque you have, not enough and low ratio would feel like a dog on the highway.
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Old 08-03-2018, 06:51 PM   #643
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Z34 3.69 would be a good match, same ratio as JDM S14/S15. Also depends on how much low end torque you have, not enough and low ratio would feel like a dog on the highway.
370z? I can get a z33 (350z?) diff.. z33 are 3.5 ratio right? It's a KA-T but I'm not sure how much power it's making... I definitely don't want the car to feel sluggish..

Thanks for the quick response. I'm glad guys are still on here!
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:25 PM   #644
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370z? I can get a z33 (350z?) diff.. z33 are 3.5 ratio right? It's a KA-T but I'm not sure how much power it's making... I definitely don't want the car to feel sluggish..

Thanks for the quick response. I'm glad guys are still on here!

Eh, just drive it with the 4.08. People put way too much thought into the gearing and rear ratio and think it’s going to be miserable and everything else. I don’t even notice it. I mean yea at 80, you’re running a bit high on revs but it’s not out of the norm for Japanese “sports” cars. IE Miatas and b series Honda’s with type r gearsets. Yes that’s completely different but my point is, just drive it, see how you like it, then maybe change if you don’t enjoy it but don’t be scared of it. People make it out like it’s WAYYYY high and stuff like that. It’s not. I actually really like the 4.08 on the street and I’m at basically 500whp but run around 400most of the time. I’d like to try a 3.69 or 3.54 for the faster tracks and it would be fun for long pulls but short snappy acceleration and tight tracks, the 4.08 is a blast. I stick it in 3rd and ride on things like OSW’s skidpad if you’re familiar with that from AdamLZ, Quanbeck, or Taylor Ray’s videos. They run it a lot. Kind of gives you an idea, I run that course completely in 3rd with the 4.08 and can do it just fine even with the boost really low. So I say, get it, try it, and then report back! But I think it might surprise you, especially if it’s lower powered
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:29 PM   #645
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I'm picking up a KA-T car with a cd009 but has a stock 4.08 rear end. What's the preferred or best diff to match this transmission? J30, Q45 or Z33? It'll be a daily driver with occasional sprinted mountain drives and highway runs. I can pick up a Z33 for $100 at the moment but worried about axle fitment... any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Tons of good info in here! The speedo isn't working at the moment but I believe I've nailed that portion reading through all these pages!
Also, z axles fit perfectly fine. I’m running them with a stock diff and villains stubs. The problem with those mentioned diffs is they’re VLSD and probably all really old/worn out. Some still work well if you want a viscous diff, but could go z33/34 (never thought about it since I run weldeds for the track but they came with viscous right?) and then kill two birds. Newer viscous coupling unit and stronger diff. And as fast as speedo, if you go back some I shared ho to make it work with GPS for pretty cheap. Good luck
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Old 08-03-2018, 10:13 PM   #646
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Also, z axles fit perfectly fine. I’m running them with a stock diff and villains stubs. The problem with those mentioned diffs is they’re VLSD and probably all really old/worn out. Some still work well if you want a viscous diff, but could go z33/34 (never thought about it since I run weldeds for the track but they came with viscous right?) and then kill two birds. Newer viscous coupling unit and stronger diff. And as fast as speedo, if you go back some I shared ho to make it work with GPS for pretty cheap. Good luck
D-Clem thanks for the detailed feedback. Yeah I think I'm putting too much thought into the rear end ratio. I just don't want the car too sluggish or too finicky.. as I stated it'll be a DD, some sprinted mountain driving, and highway pulls..

Yes I saw your detailed explanation on how to get the speedo working. Would that same setup work if I went with a z33 diff? I think I'm gonna keep the 4.08 in it and buy the z33 diff ($100 bucks) and the axles to keep on the side - this way I can swap if I don't like the 4.08. I believe if I have the above I would only need the Maverick diff bushings..
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Old 08-04-2018, 08:26 AM   #647
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D-Clem thanks for the detailed feedback. Yeah I think I'm putting too much thought into the rear end ratio. I just don't want the car too sluggish or too finicky.. as I stated it'll be a DD, some sprinted mountain driving, and highway pulls..

Yes I saw your detailed explanation on how to get the speedo working. Would that same setup work if I went with a z33 diff? I think I'm gonna keep the 4.08 in it and buy the z33 diff ($100 bucks) and the axles to keep on the side - this way I can swap if I don't like the 4.08. I believe if I have the above I would only need the Maverick diff bushings..

It will be fine, I run a 4.08 in my vq35hr swapped s13, so has a similar rpm limit to your KA-T. The gearing is perfect imo.


You would also need to widen the rear track width to run the z33 differential and axles. Just the axles with s-chassis diff and villains/getnuts stub shafts the factory track width is enough.
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Old 08-04-2018, 08:33 PM   #648
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It will be fine, I run a 4.08 in my vq35hr swapped s13, so has a similar rpm limit to your KA-T. The gearing is perfect imo.


You would also need to widen the rear track width to run the z33 differential and axles. Just the axles with s-chassis diff and villains/getnuts stub shafts the factory track width is enough.
Rear track width? What is all involved with widening the rear track?
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Old 08-05-2018, 07:24 AM   #649
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D-Clem thanks for the detailed feedback. Yeah I think I'm putting too much thought into the rear end ratio. I just don't want the car too sluggish or too finicky.. as I stated it'll be a DD, some sprinted mountain driving, and highway pulls..

Yes I saw your detailed explanation on how to get the speedo working. Would that same setup work if I went with a z33 diff? I think I'm gonna keep the 4.08 in it and buy the z33 diff ($100 bucks) and the axles to keep on the side - this way I can swap if I don't like the 4.08. I believe if I have the above I would only need the Maverick diff bushings..
Yea the GPS speedo setup will work no matter what’s in the car. Kind of a beautiful thing about it. Any swap, any diff, speedo just works
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Old 08-05-2018, 06:49 PM   #650
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Yea the GPS speedo setup will work no matter what’s in the car. Kind of a beautiful thing about it. Any swap, any diff, speedo just works
Damn well that's good news! Gonna go price quote how much that setup is gonna cost me!
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Old 08-08-2018, 05:37 PM   #651
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Rear track width? What is all involved with widening the rear track?
Longer lower control arms and lengthening the other arms to compensate. Or spacing the hubs outwards with something like a dual caliper adapter bracket does.
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Old 08-18-2018, 11:11 AM   #652
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Anyone know the length of the input shaft AFTER you trim off 3/8 inch for the mazworx kit? I picked up a swap second hand and want to make sure it was setup properly. The shop that did it originally does so-so work.
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Old 08-21-2018, 01:16 PM   #653
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So, I've decided to bite the bullet, and upgrade my transmission. But, I'm wondering if you guys could help me out a little. First off, I'm located in Hawaii, so I'm looking for the most cost effective swap. Secondly, I'm looking for simplicity and reliability. With that being said, what kit would you guys recommend?
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Old 08-21-2018, 01:31 PM   #654
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So, I've decided to bite the bullet, and upgrade my transmission. But, I'm wondering if you guys could help me out a little. First off, I'm located in Hawaii, so I'm looking for the most cost effective swap. Secondly, I'm looking for simplicity and reliability. With that being said, what kit would you guys recommend?
NOTHING about the 6 speed swap is cost effective. I am not sure what your definition of cost effective is however.

With that said; if you are planning a 6 speed swap, the easy button solution is the Mazworx cast bell housing kit.
If not, then bell hosuing adapter, machining the bell housing, shifter mod, driveshaft, reverse and neutral switches to be wired in and speed signal need to be sorted.

Its several thousand no matter how you look on it. So do yourself a favor and accept it's going to be that much unless you are patient enough to find a smoking deal. Then when you decide, just choose your poison (cut and shut, Mazworx bell cast bell housing or adapter plate)

P.S This is the CD009 swap afterall. However, you do have another Z chassis option; The NA Z32 (those can be had for cheap) swap is a cost effective 5 speed option that will handle 500+ W torque all day long, which comes in much cheaper. You can be all in for less than 1K if you go that route. Apart from that, it's all going to cost you.

Good luck!
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Old 08-21-2018, 02:37 PM   #655
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@D-Clem, I run a lot of track and I have a 4.36 with S15 HLSD.... Highest front straight speed I got is about 145MPH on my 4.08 stock vlsd back then. Car is about 400WHP....

Do you think I will run out of gear on my CD009?

@speedgod^s13. Truthfully I thought the CD009 was an easier DIY option then using a NA Z32. It doesn't look like Mazworx gives you a template for the VG cut out....
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Old 08-21-2018, 03:32 PM   #656
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Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
NOTHING about the 6 speed swap is cost effective. I am not sure what your definition of cost effective is however.

With that said; if you are planning a 6 speed swap, the easy button solution is the Mazworx cast bell housing kit.
If not, then bell hosuing adapter, machining the bell housing, shifter mod, driveshaft, reverse and neutral switches to be wired in and speed signal need to be sorted.

Its several thousand no matter how you look on it. So do yourself a favor and accept it's going to be that much unless you are patient enough to find a smoking deal. Then when you decide, just choose your poison (cut and shut, Mazworx bell cast bell housing or adapter plate)

P.S This is the CD009 swap afterall. However, you do have another Z chassis option; The NA Z32 (those can be had for cheap) swap is a cost effective 5 speed option that will handle 500+ W torque all day long, which comes in much cheaper. You can be all in for less than 1K if you go that route. Apart from that, it's all going to cost you.

Good luck!
Thanks for the response. I may instead look into the z32 conversion. I know that this is the cd009 thread, but you said that I could be all in for less than 1k, if I was to go the z32 route. From which company? I know xcessive makes a kit, but I've heard some horror stories, plus the fact that you have to use a different starter. Mazworx is pretty good stuff, but I believe over 1k?
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Old 08-21-2018, 03:49 PM   #657
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Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
@D-Clem, I run a lot of track and I have a 4.36 with S15 HLSD.... Highest front straight speed I got is about 145MPH on my 4.08 stock vlsd back then. Car is about 400WHP....

Do you think I will run out of gear on my CD009?

@speedgod^s13. Truthfully I thought the CD009 was an easier DIY option then using a NA Z32. It doesn't look like Mazworx gives you a template for the VG cut out....
That final drive is killing your top speed. CD00x 6th isn't much taller than s-chassis 5th, 0.79 vs 0.81 (?). So you only get about 5mph at redline. The 6MT basically gives you an extra gear in the twisties. You may find a taller final drive will pair better, like 4.08, 3.9 or 3.69.

Spend some time in a gear ratio calculator and figure out what might work best for your goals. I like: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html because they already have most Nissan trans values pre-loaded and you can directly compare changes.
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Old 09-02-2018, 12:13 PM   #658
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I read through this thread and I don't see many people posting their experience with the JZ Collins Kit.

I'm up in the air if i need to go with a kit where i cut the front of the bell housing off and attatch the adapter, or if i can just run an adapter plate and keep the stock cd009 bellhousing..

In my chassis the r154 currently fits fine, so i'm hoping i don't have to bash my bellhousing up any more than it is. My oil pan also sits pretty low, its a little below the sub-frame, so i'm hoping that helps with clearance.

HELP!! lol
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:23 AM   #659
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All I've ever seen is issues with Collins kits. Serial9 makes a great jz-cd kit as they went about it the same way Mazworx did with the sr-cd kit.
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:08 PM   #660
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Has anyone put serious power through the 5th and 6th gears? I'm going to be running 1/2 mile and the speeds I want to hit will require hear 6th gear redline runs. My car should be making around 750RWHP. I'm worried about the strength of the top gears.

Any actual experience would be appreciated.
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