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Old 11-30-2007, 09:47 AM   #31
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Awesome work so far man.
I would really like to see this car in person, the work put into it is amazing.
I slowly (but surely) am planning an LS1 swap of my own and this thread really motivated me to do that even more. I love what you havedone so far!

Were abouts in Clifton are you? I would love to have the privelage to stop by your garage and check this thing out in the flesh!
Talk to you later bro and keep up the awesome wrenching.
I will many questions for you in the future!

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Old 11-30-2007, 10:16 AM   #32
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Wow, I just stumbled upon this, and Im pretty sure youve also seen my thread...we are going for similar goals as far as motor placement goes. Great fab and awesome techniques to achieve your positioning! I too had been worried about ground clearance etc with my RB using a wet sump sys. My final solution is similar to yours...modified xmember! Anyways, just wanted to give you props...it looks great and Im stoked to see some great work on here. Ill keep watching this one!
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Old 11-30-2007, 10:34 AM   #33
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s14

Thanks for the kind words guys!
Gav, I've been following your build from the get go! Sickness!
Ruiz, shoot me a PM with your phone number, drinking beer and talking about cars in person are what I do best!

And if you're in the NY/NJ area and have any LS1 related qustions
talk to the guys at TTP in Passaic, they do pro alignments and corner weights, and really know the LSX engines inside and out http://www.ttperformance.net/index.shtml
The owner Matt Sorian was nice enough to give me a job there for a few months this summer while I was out of school. Every time we even sneezed any boost at an LSX we were rewarded with 7-800 hp without trying.
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Old 12-02-2007, 09:17 AM   #34
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I've heard two different, very reputable LSX engine builders mention these lobes in passing, and finally looked them up:

Comp Cams : XTREME MARINE™ HYDRAULIC ROLLERS - HIGH LIFT

These have the same ramp designs as the lower lift Xtreme Marine™ designs but have higher lift to enhance power
output with cylinder head and engine modifications.
LOBE RATED DURATION IN LOBE TAPPET LIFT @ THEORETICAL VALVE LIFT
NUMBER DURATION DEGREES LIFT TDC @ “0” LASH ROCKER ARM RATIO
CAMSHAFT TYPE
.050 .200 106° 110° 1.5 1.6 1.7
3473 290 234 152 .360 .081 .068 .540 .576 .612
3474 292 236 154 .360 .085 .071 .540 .576 .612
3410 294 238 154 .350 .088 .075 .525 .560 .595
3475 294 238 156 .360 .088 .075 .540 .576 .612
3376 296 240 157 .360 .092 .078 .540 .576 .612
3411 300 244 159 .350 .099 .085 .525 .560 .595
3370 304 248 167 .380 .107 .092 .570 .608 .646
3377 306 250 166 .360 .111 .096 .540 .576 .612
3371 308 254 171 .380 .119 .103 .570 .608 .646
3372 314 258 175 .380 .126 .111 .570 .608 .646
3373 318 262 179 .380 .134 .118 .570 .608 .646
3374 322 266 182 .380 .142 .126 .570 .608 .646
3375 326 270 186 .380 .149 .134 .570 .608 .646
3447 330 274 190 .380 .157 .141 .570 .608 .646

also from the 2007 comp cams catalogue it says:


"These profiles use the same design techniques of the baseline Xtreme Energy
™ Hydraulic Rollers but have been optimized
to increase power and durability when run at steady rpm for extended periods of time. Specifically designed
for big blocks with heavier valve train components."

I'm only interested in the intake at 244 @ .05", but its advertised duration (or duration at .006" lift) is 300, vs the 293 of the origianl lobes I was going to use. These lobes sound great, they are designed for big ass heavy big block valves, which is exactly what I'm running with my 2.200" stainless intake valves. I don't need these lasier lobes on the exhaust because they are a more standard (and lighter) 1.600". The larger advertised duration (at the same .500" lift) will also allow me to run a little more advance and still have a lower DCR. At 8.6 I was pushing it a bit before.

I'll call comps help line before making any final decisions, but here's some food for thought.

Who would have thought, Marine Lobes in a road racer?!

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Old 12-08-2007, 10:19 PM   #35
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Man that is sweet. Good ol LS1 power, gotta love it. God I miss my F-body. I guess my buddy knows someone around where I live in MI who has one as well. I would like to see it in person.
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Old 12-09-2007, 06:59 PM   #36
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gl man thats sick +1
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Old 12-09-2007, 07:04 PM   #37
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wow that is soo crazy awesome car man!!!!!!
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Old 12-09-2007, 07:43 PM   #38
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Hello, nice work you got there,finally someone is using motor plates it makes mounting the motor so much more easy & you have lots more freedom in fore & aft placement. And now the motor becomes a stressed member to a degree ,it should stiffen up the front end alot.

As for the pan your on the correct path ,I would shorten it ,put wings & trap doors on both sides shorten the pickup if needed, & put a oil cooler to make up for any loss capacity or gain some capacity. Anyhow it looks real good!!!!

Maybe split that .750 your hanging down in half & do a subframe spacer it would be a lil easier than cuting the pan again then you wont hang as much & that (.375) should be doable. It wont change your suspension geometry too too much,& the pan you have now will be safe.
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Old 12-10-2007, 09:28 AM   #39
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I definitely could lower the crossmember. There's even a 0.770" spacer under the trans mount that I could adjust the height of. Has anyone ever seen a crossmember with the control arm mounting holes moved up? I'd think that at least one of those uber-slammed fools here on zilvia would care enough about their geometry to have tried it.No?
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:15 AM   #40
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working on it much lately Dru?
I know you must be swamped with Exams and such these past few weeks
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:21 AM   #41
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great work. nice car . that ls1 is going to be great.
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:39 AM   #42
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Very impressive...
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:48 AM   #43
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Vengance vindicator cam ftmfw! vengance trick flow heads.. should look into it..
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Old 12-10-2007, 03:25 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenki-217 View Post
Vengance vindicator cam ftmfw! vengance trick flow heads.. should look into it..
For what reason exactly are you proposing that I drop my LS7 heads and intake for a package that costs $1300+ more, flows at least 20 CFM less, and forces me to use an inferior intake? You should look into it.
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Old 12-10-2007, 04:20 PM   #45
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lol.

I don't care about any of this.

but I do know if you don't make long tube/equallengths for the LSx it sounds like total 1950 SBC dick.

with good headers and a superlight clutch/flywheel they sound cherry.

At least by ditching the conventional motor mounts you'll have more room for neat headers.
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:16 AM   #46
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Mcrussellpants, thanks for another post that's about as helpful as rust on my nuts.Just a quick update on my precious: I got an e-mail from the guys at Ohlins yesterday. They've ordered the parts they need for my refurb and they should be in early January!
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:18 AM   #47
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Mcrussellpants, thanks for another post that's about as helpful as rust on my nuts.
looooooooooooooooooooooool sorry, but that's funny as hell.

How much are you estimating to spend?
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Old 12-12-2007, 07:12 AM   #48
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100 billion dollars
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:13 AM   #49
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For what reason exactly are you proposing that I drop my LS7 heads and intake for a package that costs $1300+ more, flows at least 20 CFM less, and forces me to use an inferior intake? You should look into it.
What the fuck are smoking?Call vengance for a custom grind cam and u wont be disappointed..
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Old 12-12-2007, 09:31 AM   #50
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I'm not saying that anyone would be disappointed if they went with a set up from vengence. 575 hp at the crank is pretty impressive! But I'm confident that my set up will do better. Also the trick flow heads are not as good as a ported LS7 head on a large bore block; if you care, look up the dyno graps of cars equipped with both on ls1tech.coms dyno comparison forum, then look up both of their dry flows from the published flow bench results, you'll see I'm right. And regarding the "vindicator" cam: It's traditional split is too narrow for the heavily biased intake (or you cold say relatively poor flowing exhaust) on the LS7 heads. It's overlap is also much more narrow than the cam I'm proposing, which will cost power for the sake of driveability. And finally, it's smaller, which is fine for the 364 ci that it was designed for, but on my 392 will cost power again. I appreciate peeps throwing out suggestions, but before you reccomend that I scrap all of my parts and ideas for something else, I'm just asking that you do a minimum of research, or actually come from a place of knowlege before you post....in the mean time some cool pics of the halibrands and 275mm falken 615s
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Old 12-23-2007, 09:47 AM   #51
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Budget



Hoping to keep it under the price of a nice pinky ring.

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Old 01-01-2008, 05:12 AM   #52
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Oh fuck are those Halibrands?

I'm not reading your pimp ass mods list, but your defensiveness about long tubes points you bought some bogue corvette shorties or something.

shit sounds like dicks. make some long tubes.



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Old 01-01-2008, 02:49 PM   #53
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I wasn't being defensive. I just get a little frustrated on this forum sometimes. I post up technical questions about camshaft design, and instead of replys, I get peoples' opinions on what sounds cool, and "vindicator ftw".You're right though, long tubes do sound nastier. The only reason I havn't mentioned them much before is that I was waiting to see what my final exhaust valve size was going to be, what the cam specs were going to end up at, the final bore and strokea, etc. Once that info and more is locked in there will be some serious posts on calculating header diameter, triY design, step location, blah blah. There' some serious power to be had with the right pipes!I just got my LS7 heads back from West Coast racing heads, and I've got to go pull my LS1 heads to see if the exhaust ports and header bolt location are the same. I hope they are because I'd rather use my scabby LS1 heads for the custom header mock up.And yeah those are halibrand cobra IIIs that were originally designed for ac cobra replicas. At first I was all excited to have original halibrands, but later found out that right before these models were made halibrand stopped being a US designed and made. All four wheels were slightly out of round (have sinces been fixed at Pico tire and wheel just North of LA) and the backs (17x10.5) were only made for a very short period of time and are a slightly different color than the fronts (17x9 without the deep dish for extra caliper clearance).
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:45 PM   #54
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Quote:
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I wasn't being defensive. I just get a little frustrated on this forum sometimes. I post up technical questions about camshaft design, and instead of replys, I get peoples' opinions on what sounds cool, and "vindicator ftw".
I have block hugger headers on my 350 sbc. I couldn't care less how it sounds.
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Old 01-01-2008, 04:38 PM   #55
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For the only guy I know of to ever have had the Halibrands on a 240 check out all these sweet pics"

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...ight=halibrand
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Old 01-01-2008, 04:50 PM   #56
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whatever tickles your pickle. i personally dont like halibrands at all. id rather get the newer model cobra wheels if u want el-cheap-o and el-wide-o
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:22 AM   #57
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yay ur car is alive

u should make a kit out of it like i said long ago ... my car is still winter parked heh... ... But I really want an ls1...
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Old 01-12-2008, 04:13 PM   #58
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Halibrands definitely tickle my pickle!

And the progress is slow but steady.

...but it's about to come to a screaming halt for the next three months.
I have to move to Trenton NJ for a surgical clerkship, and I'm going to have to take call, overnight every fourth night. Then I'll have to move again.

Went over to my old stomping grounds TTP in Passaic NJ and media blasted my valve covers. Worked out great. Then I used a dremel with a 80 grit roll to remove the casting marks. I think I'm going to try and polish 'em.

Took these pics for another thread to show how this bad boy is mid engine:

If you look close you can see the make-shift pendulum line that goes to the center of my front wheel. The car is level. And I think it's safe to say that this is a mid-engine car!





I've also been working hard on the seat mounts, because A: I want them low, and B: I want the seats in their final position before I weld in the harness bar.
First I removed the mini pilar that holds up the outer/rear stock seat mounting point, and then masked off everything. In order to make a template for the odd shaped floor, I bolted down my OMP seat mounts and injected some insulating foam. Cardboard templates may have been easier, but it was a fun experiment, and it worked out perfectly.




notice the heater sitting in the car so that the foam would cure in my F'n freezing garage!





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1998 S14 LS7/T56 swap in progress, build thread:
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:23 PM   #59
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Boxed into a nice corner

The LS7 heads have forced me to go big bore. I knew this when I bought them, but I naively believed the GMPP catalog that said that they will work with a 4.065 bore which ment I had the option of using a $1400 brand new L92 block. According to my head builder, who I believe over the catalog, 4.100&quot; is closer to the truth. Incase you didn't already know the stock bores are:

LS2 4.000&quot;
LS3/L92 4.065&quot;
LS7 4.125&quot;

Road race engines have been succesfully built utilizing LS7 heads on .035&quot; over L92 blocks (yields a 4.100&quot. But of course you're not left with much cylinder wall left, and if anything goes wrong, you can't overbore, you have to sleeve. Also, this is all presuming that you're starting with a block with almost no core-shift, good luck finding that as the L92s are notorious for having odd sleeve placement/core-shift.

So I've been looking into the other big bore options out there. Since a C5R or Warhawk block is out of my price range, that leaves me with the
1)stock LS7 $2400 new (maybe $1800 used)
2)Katech sleeved &quot;budget LS2&quot; something like $4000 (doesn't seem very budget to me).
3)darton MID sleeve (actually strongest on a LS1 block) but you're looking at $1000 for the machine work, another $1500 for the sleeves themselves, and then of course you need a block. So lets say you get a good deal on a used LS1 for $500, once you're done with shipping, we're talking at lest $3100
4)Iron LSX: can be had for $1800, but it will still require stress relieving and boring (it comes stock at something like 3.900&quot; bore). Oh and did I mention that it's like 120lbs heavier than anything mentioned so far.
5) LS2 block with Darton Dry liners. What I'm leaning towards right now.
Require less machine work than the MID sleeves, and cost a bunch less for the liners themselves. Unlike the MID sleeves they do not require evans coolant and pump (a hidden $600 of the MIDs). You can get the machine work and the liners together for $1500. I can probably get a used LS2 block for south of $750, and you're looking at a total of $2250. Compared to the stock LS7: the darton dry are made of a much more ductile/stronger steel, can be bored out to 4.190 vs 4.155, and can safely support the pistons with longer stroke cranks, because the sleeve is deeper than even the LS7 (which has the deepest sleeves of the stock blocks).
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1998 S14 LS7/T56 swap in progress, build thread:
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Last edited by SicBastard; 01-30-2008 at 01:01 PM..
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:37 PM   #60
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wow sounds like fun but wen you cut the oil pan tha short wont it starve some of the bottom end mechanisms
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