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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 02-19-2018, 12:34 AM   #1
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KA S13 KA24DE swap, No crank, ECU stays on after removing key

--------------------UPDATE---------------------'

Problem solved, it was a combintion of a couple things: while going through the starter and fuse box wiring I noticed one of the plugs on the side of the fuse box was broken and wasnt staying in place. I assume its a ground plug? I didnt trace it anywhere but I cleaned it up and re attached it with a zip tie and got full power to dash. Wired up check engine light and it works as intended. Still no crank, but starter started clicking when turning key. Traced it back to the clutch pedal switch, somehow it had gone bad after sitting for a few months. After bypassing the switch motor fired right up after 3 years of sitting in a wrecked car.

Thank you to all who viewed this thread and considered my problems. Hope this helps for anyone in the future.

------------------------------------------------------

Hey guys, ive got a 90 manual hatch that im swapping a dual cam into. Donor car is a totaled 92 manual hatch, both cars are california models. I was told that the motor ran after the car was crashed and towed back home, where it sat for about 3 years. Im intending to BAR swap this motor (basically a legal way to motor swap a smog vehicle in CA for those unaware) so this motor has to be completely legit and functional as is was from factory.

When i pulled the motor, i disconnected the fuse box connectors, tranny harness, MAF, coil assembly and AIV connectors, and left the rest of harness connected to the motor. Pulled various vacuum lines, intake hose, throttle cable, and removed AC and power steering lines as well. Motor was pulled with the tranny attached.

I dropped the motor into the car yesterday, and following swap guides I spliced the single cam dash connector into the dual cam engine harness and matched the wires for water temp, tach, speedo, and ignition, and spliced the ground wire into another ground on the back of the ecu connector. Reconnected tranny harness and engine harness, installed AIV and vacuum lines, etc. I also installed some brand new 4 gauge ground wires to ground the head and block to the frame.

Heres where i start scratching my head. When i go to turn the key, i get absolutely no starter or crank and no idiot lights on the dash, or clock. I can hear the starter relay clicking but nothing else. Body harness is powering brakes and dome light perfectly.

When i go to turn the car off, the ecu STAYS ON and the parking brake light turns on indefinitely, until I pull the battery cable. This WONT happen until i actually turn the key into ACC or ON, and then switch back off. Additionally, it doesnt seem like the ecu is actually working, even though it lights on i.e. i cant go into diagnostic mode to check for errors.

Could this be the same issue, or a combination of problems?

From the research ive done, it doesnt look like I have a functional CEL and clock until i start splicing the other consult wires on the dash harness, but from what Im reading this shouldnt have an effect on starting and driving the motor? None of my idiot lights come on except the door open light when i turn the key to ON, shouldnt I be getting power to most of these lights, or did I lose these when I chopped wires for the single cam connector? And I definitely shouldnt be getting power to the parking brake light after I exit the vehicle??

The most logical explanation i can think of is a relay is sticking when i turn the car on, and then keeps powering the ecu after Ive switched it off. I noticed that i have an extra plug hanging at the engine fuse box on the engine harness, and another by the coil assembly on the other side of the car, could these have this horribly ill effect?

Literally the only piece missing on the motor (besides the stainless steering lines im waiting for) is the charcoal canister, which i forgot to grab when i pulled the motor. As such the vacuum lines are just hanging but since these get deleted all the time im not concerned at this time.

I could tear this motor apart all day but aside from basic splicing and soldering, electrical diagrams and wiring problems make me want to rip my hair out. Any input or suggestions are more than welcome!! I'm gonna start swapping relays in the morning

Last edited by TT01Fanatic; 02-22-2018 at 01:37 AM..
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Old 02-22-2018, 01:38 AM   #2
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UPDATE: The issues have been solved. Original post has been updated with all info.
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ecu on, ka24de, ka24de swap, no crank, no start


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