V-Mount Set-Up

[McRussellPants]

Originally Posted by brainfood

Setup looks nice do you run fans on the radiator? Not sure why it would overheat for street driving it looks very efficient. Are you getting a good low pressure zone behind the ic with the ducting that far above the hood line?

Im sure he hasn't run a pressure test on it but he posted the first good DIY example in this entire thread. both the Signal cars and Koguchi nailed it too.

With the "gurney flap" right before the duct the only way it wouldn't create a huge drop in pressure behind it is if the flow was already seperated, and seeing as how the 240SX has a smooth nose unlike the STi and FC it should be working as intended.

Ducting on it is near perfect. bending the outsides of the koyo for bracket for ducting is classy.

The piping is kind of wack but whatever.

I'll pretty much be doing that exact setup but with less layback on the radiator.

[brainfood]

I agree it is a very nice setup, I was just wondering about the hood ducting because I have been looking for a decent hood that would do well with a fmic but an oe style could be cut to run with a duct like that with little work.

[johngriff]

V-Mount Looks SWEET! How many people want one really bad now based off that ARC pic!!

[yokotas13]

Originally Posted by WhiteGLX

i had posted wuite the write up on how and why i did mine like i did, and how it ended up working at the race track, i would never use mysetup for daily driving because of cooling issues when the car isnt moving.

setup mounted with smaller than KOYO radiator old Greddy FMIC and without cutting any supports.


lower ducting




upper ducting




ducting fitment in the "V"




hood fitment

thats some Aircraft Sheetmetal guy work if ive EVER seen it myself lol...unless you do sheetmetal some other place for a living.

[WhiteGLX]

Originally Posted by brainfood

Setup looks nice do you run fans on the radiator? Not sure why it would overheat for street driving it looks very efficient. Are you getting a good low pressure zone behind the ic with the ducting that far above the hood line?

it overheats because i only have a little 12" fan on teh back of the raciator. Without the high flow of air you get from actually moving forward the rad doesnt work as well as it does in movement.

this setp was done on a budget and to be completely functional not for bling factor. On the reace track i get average temps of 170* with no fans at all, if i run defreoster and rad fa i can actually get temps down to 150* on track.

All ducting was done using my aviation sheet metal training, glad you all like it. Oh my radiator is not a Koyo also, its about 8" shorter, and i got it on ebay, i jut got the dimensions that i was looking for, Koyo was too big to fit without cutting anything.

[yokotas13]

lol I KNEW IT!!!

[WhiteGLX]

im an Aircraft Technician, its what i do, sheet metal has always been my thing along with electrical wiring.

[the head]

Originally Posted by Slidin240Wayz

Where did you get yours from?

stock car products they no longer carry Griffin but they do have decent prices on AFCO and Howe radiators if you google "griffin circle track radiators" you will find a lot of suppliers. Be sure to get Chevy outlets if you have an SR

[NemeGuero]

Dear god that shit is fuckin' cclleeeeaaann..
build cost tally?

[WhiteGLX]

mmm, cost of Greddy FMIC kit 2 years ago, HT hotpipe with greddy BOV, $100 Ford racing ebay alum. radiator, $25 ebay Moroso Coolant resivoir, $300 in aluminum welding, $30 rad hoses & clamps, $40 aluminum sheet metal for ducting & rivets.

the FMIC kit i used to use was the biggest cost, i could have spent a fraction of that if i went v-mount from the begining without buying a FMIC kit and getting a smaller IC and ebay IC piping kit.

[Slidin240Wayz]

$1345, hmm pricey

[WhiteGLX]

liek i said, if i had gone v-mount up frnt, knock at least 500 off that, selling and rebuying IC stuff was a waste of tiem because i never would have gotten enough money back on teh IC and pipes to make it worth it

[Slidin240Wayz]

How many people would be interested in paying for a v-mount setup out of the gate? IC, Radiator with proper welds, Reservior tanks, Ducting for a very close to bolt-on setup? Also, how much would you pay for a proven setup?

Carlos

[ThatGuy]

Make it KA/SR/CA compatible and you would increase your market.

I still wouldn't be interested, but then again I'm after a NA V8. Just making a suggestion for you guys to consider.

[mr_240sx]

well im currently in the markt for a v mouint set up because im picking up a shell tomorrow morning and its gonna be my track car. so id like to go vmount! make a kit and let me demo it for you!

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by ThatGuy

Make it KA/SR/CA compatible and you would increase your market.

Thanks for the advice. That is very do-able just by different brackets and minor piping differences.

Carlos

[chuy]

Id be in hell youd save me time looking for stuff. Lazy!!!

[Slidin240Wayz]

+1 for a v-mount, would you pay $1000 for it?

[NemeGuero]

I'd be in Carlos... depending on price of course.

[WhiteGLX]

in all honesty i could make a kit that would just need custom IC pipes made per application, but everyone woul demand different things Rad sizes, IC sizes, and for teh ducting to be done properly somethings need to be cut for it to work properly. Alot of R&D for small profit or outcome...mostlikely why no one has hit the market with a kit yet.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by WhiteGLX

in all honesty i could make a kit that would just need custom IC pipes made per application, but everyone woul demand different things Rad sizes, IC sizes, and for teh ducting to be done properly somethings need to be cut for it to work properly. Alot of R&D for small profit or outcome...mostlikely why no one has hit the market with a kit yet.

Alast, I came around...

[Markovich]

Originally Posted by Slidin240Wayz

Notice how this guy retains stock looking radiator? Is it?

Its a 93 eagle talon radiator but its getting replaced by an aluminum rad from ebay.The car is my daily driver and have put about $525 with the new alumnium radiator, intercooler, piping, bov, fan im on a really tight budget!!

[mr_240sx]

Originally Posted by Slidin240Wayz

+1 for a v-mount, would you pay $1000 for it?

well for 1000 bucks id buy it if it looks like a professional job like the arc kit. but if it looks like a backyard hack job then no way.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by mr_240sx

well for 1000 bucks id buy it if it looks like a professional job like the arc kit. but if it looks like a backyard hack job then no way.

I definately understand your concern and I would not put my name on crap work. To have a kit like ARC is pushing it just because of the radiator endtanks and titanium ducts. I am just looking for interested individuals. I have seen the RX-7 kit sell for over 1100, so I am judging by that amount.

Carlos

[mr_240sx]

well i tried my current 240 once this year and had over heating issues so my project car which will be mean for 90% track and 10%DD, i wanna make sure i get the cooling issues out!

[chuy]

I dont know if it would help to do it in HP figures. I havent gotten that far yet. But Im in as long as theres no cutting of any radiator mounts and stuff. If we have to cut the bumper no prob I just dont want to cut the metal bumper and radiator support.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by chuy

I dont know if it would help to do it in HP figures. I havent gotten that far yet. But Im in as long as theres no cutting of any radiator mounts and stuff. If we have to cut the bumper no prob I just dont want to cut the metal bumper and radiator support.

I do not want to cut ANYTHING at all, especially the rad support. It's just going to take alot of test fits and measuring and what not.

Carlos

[JohnC]

For $1000 I would buy it 4sure.

[MadScientist]

I dont think making a Kit would be the best way to sell a V-mount... The ARC is going to cost, at least, well into the $3000 range. I have seen several other FD3S V-Mounts going for $2500+. I personally would stay away from a $1000 V-mount. Everyone wants the quality and proven performance of an ARC type set-up but NO-ONE is going to buy the ARC.

The best option is exactly as I was posting to begin with... Find the parts and do the R&D... if you dont know what your doing (or trust your skill) then get help, or don't do it. There are to many variables: KA, SR, CA, Bottom mount, Top Mount, V-mount, 7-Mount, etc...

The best part posted so far is the Griffin Radiator w/ Chevy pipes... yes it still needs modified, but thats what makes Your set-up... yours!

Peace
Drew

[FinalDrive]

$1000 for a kit that includes intercooler and radiator? I'd be interested