Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Hoffman5982]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

Is a junkyard trip out of the question? Stock axles are great. S13, S14, and 3x2 J30 should all be fair game. I've had terrible luck with auto parts store crap.

Trip itself isn't out of the question but none of the ones near me have anything

[hatch4life]

I relocated the power steering reservoir to the corner (next to the master cylinder)
But while driving (especially when drifting during transitions and entries) It acts like the power steering is only kind of working and I have to do significantly more work
What could this be? are the hoses simply too long?

[JrDarknes]

Who has used Powered By Max skid plate? Is it durable?

I got one from a friend who was nice enough to sell it to me for only 10 dollars (like new, never used it). I need to replace the oil pan on my RB and want to make sure it's protected. However, I know it's made out of aluminum and there are steel ones in the market.

My car sits pretty low.


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[tharocket]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

You should be able to buy a rebuilt condenser from rockauto. Then get a Codyace adapter to bolt it up to the red top bracket/pulley.

I also see ac components in the marketplace from time to time as people build racecars.

No dice. Even rock auto is not making them any more


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[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by tharocket

No dice. Even rock auto is not making them any more

That's a bummer. I guess the next question is if Nissan used that same compressor on other cars around the same time. Then go search junk yards.

[Crazyced]

In the process of installing a JDM 180sx LSD pumpkin in my 240sx. Comparing my old 6 bolts axles to the matching new 5 bolts axles, both 5 bolts are a good 1 inch shorter. But the old 6 bolts are 'compressible'.

Is that just a function of the tripod vs CV? Are they in fact bolt on?

[TheRealSy90]

The Tripod axles do not sit fully extended when installed in the car. The would be compressed.

[Grady]

Got a quick question. I have a 91 Silvia Q's (NA SR20de motor). I need a new fuel pump and was wondering if there is an equivalent pump from a North American production car?
I have a 255lph walbro, but then I would need to get an adjustable fpr right? I couldn't find any concrete info searching around besides the part number (17042-35F00)

[Hoffman5982]

Originally Posted by Grady

Got a quick question. I have a 91 Silvia Q's (NA SR20de motor). I need a new fuel pump and was wondering if there is an equivalent pump from a North American production car?
I have a 255lph walbro, but then I would need to get an adjustable fpr right? I couldn't find any concrete info searching around besides the part number (17042-35F00)

No, you can run it without upgrading your fpr no problem. I ran a dw200(also a 255lph) on my na ka for almost a year.

[TheRealSy90]

It might run a tiny bit rich. I'd go with a factory ka24de pump honestly.

[S14kouki805]

Picked up a 97 KA24DE with 5spd trans on a good deal last weekend. Came with engine and tranny harnesses as well as the ECU.

I have a 96 S14 OBDII original AT tranny but was SR swapped. Most of the wiring plugged right in but a few were different. Can someone link me to a good article on this? I've been searching but nothing it too specific on the differences of the plugs and what not. I noticed the plugs to the fuse box are different as well as the wiper motor so far.

Any help is appreciated.

[PatPs13]

I've been searching and I can't find much info. Are there any write ups/diagrams/kits for the hardware required to install all of the interior panels? I only have the plastics and don't know how to start piecing together all of the required screws, clips and brackets required to installed the interior properly without hacking it all up with mismatched hardware.

Car is a s13 Coupe


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[jaysgottaredtop]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

In the process of installing a JDM 180sx LSD pumpkin in my 240sx. Comparing my old 6 bolts axles to the matching new 5 bolts axles, both 5 bolts are a good 1 inch shorter. But the old 6 bolts are 'compressible'.

Is that just a function of the tripod vs CV? Are they in fact bolt on?

Are you talking about an R180 diff?

R180 and R200 share the same right side axle length iirc.

R180 definitely uses a longer left side axle than R200 by an inch or two.

There's an axle thread somewhere on Zilvia that may be able to offer more info.

[mr.nismo.]

Hey everyone, I've been searching with no avail. Has anyone here ever used an adapter for putting DOHC ac lines on an sohc evaporator for the low side? The high side bolts on just fine but the low side is apparently too big and won't go into the evaporator line out the fire wall. I planned on grabbing a new evaporator but I can only find a core (so no lines from the core to the firewall) just asking in case I'm a fucktard that didn't search enough.

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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by PatPs13

I've been searching and I can't find much info. Are there any write ups/diagrams/kits for the hardware required to install all of the interior panels? I only have the plastics and don't know how to start piecing together all of the required screws, clips and brackets required to installed the interior properly without hacking it all up with mismatched hardware.

Car is a s13 Coupe


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Use this page, input VIN, look

NISSANPARTSDEAL.com

[marveluz]

Has anyone tried these OBX longtube headers for the KA?



I tried to install into my S14 and the steering column gets in the way. The O2 and EGR bungs also look like they're S13 spec.



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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by marveluz

Has anyone tried these OBX longtube headers for the KA?



I tried to install into my S14 and the steering column gets in the way. The O2 and EGR bungs also look like they're S13 spec.



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I have one in mine. I also had the head off when I put it in, no problem. Undo the motor mounts and lift the engine, it'll go right in. The EGR, fuck that. Blocked off with Enjuku plate on the intake side, and Quirk Nissan has the block off bolt(search Amazon Quirk Nissan, Altima Maxima EGR block off, fits 240SX) for the front. As to the O2, you use the late model post July 96 version that is common through all kouki models, 18mm if memory serves

[RHSIL80]

Hello there not sure if this needs it's own thread but I don't even know how to start a thread. I've came on here a lot after my Google searches bring me here, but first time making an account and actually posting. I can really use some help I've tried searching but can't find someone with the same issue as me, I have and s13 with a full silvia front clip(redtop sr20det, rhd, silvia front end,etc) my car started running really rough recently idling high at around 1200rpms and falling on its face when starting to boost but can still rev up all the way in neutral. it does it at all times hot, cold, dry, raing, day or night. I've already adjusted tps to .46v and checked power ground and signal to maf, also checked continuity from ecu to maf and found no fault. I also removed valve cover and checked timing a d it is good. I'm running stock t25 turbo, stock intake manifold, Meagan headers, turbo elbow, and 3 in straight pipe exhaust with apexi tip and skinny type 02 sensor. I have a cx racing front mount intercooler and running stock sr20det maf and stock purple injectors. i also have a 255 walbro fuel pump and sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator with gauge and can see i have good fuel pressue. I'm thinking maf but when I unplug maf car runs exactly the same way, most times I've seen maf fail it runs better or worse with it unplugged. I'm wondering if you guys have seen mafs fail this way before and/or maybe send me in the right direction. keep in mind this car ran perfectly with this setup for over 3 years and only recently starting doing this, it's not a fresh swap being started for the first time

[kingmulky]

Does anyone have experience mounting the supermade housing for 180sx? I'm looking for some advice on mounting the front part close to the bumper

[idea]

Ok. Am I just stupid, or are the low beams for the triple projector Silvia headlights really stubborn? I'm trying to replace the low beam bulbs, and I just can't seem to figure out how to get the bulb out... I've tried twisting, pulling, and it just won't come out. I've tried searching but didn't get any luck. Can someone point me in the right direction here? Thanks.

Again this is for the triple projector s13 Silvia headlights.

[VTEC_lol]

Kinda dumb question but can a "bad" dump valve cause hesitation on acceleration?
When I'm accelerating my car will bog briefly on 3-4k rpm, and then return to normal. I've noticed whenever I let go off gas, the dump or turbo will make a "su-tu-tu-tu" sound and when I continue giving gas and let go it will make a "shhhhh" sound. It happens around 9-10 psi.
No idea what brand dump valve, all I know it's a dual port. The spring can be tightened but makes no difference really...

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

Kinda dumb question but can a "bad" dump valve cause hesitation on acceleration?
When I'm accelerating my car will bog briefly on 3-4k rpm, and then return to normal. I've noticed whenever I let go off gas, the dump or turbo will make a "su-tu-tu-tu" sound and when I continue giving gas and let go it will make a "shhhhh" sound. It happens around 9-10 psi.
No idea what brand dump valve, all I know it's a dual port. The spring can be tightened but makes no difference really...

If it's stuck open it wouldnt cause an intermediate hesitation. After 4800rpms the knock sensor is ignored (if we're talking SR) and timing resumes to normal. The noises you describe sound like a good working BOV, it's just adjusted a little tight (4-5 psi not enough to open it hence the compressor surge, but 9-10 is so it blows off). Your hesitation could be anything form a faulty knock sensor to mechanical timing... You're going to have to give it a good check for normal maintenance before anything else.

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[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by RHSIL80

Hello there not sure if this needs it's own thread but I don't even know how to start a thread. I've came on here a lot after my Google searches bring me here, but first time making an account and actually posting. I can really use some help I've tried searching but can't find someone with the same issue as me, I have and s13 with a full silvia front clip(redtop sr20det, rhd, silvia front end,etc) my car started running really rough recently idling high at around 1200rpms and falling on its face when starting to boost but can still rev up all the way in neutral. it does it at all times hot, cold, dry, raing, day or night. I've already adjusted tps to .46v and checked power ground and signal to maf, also checked continuity from ecu to maf and found no fault. I also removed valve cover and checked timing a d it is good. I'm running stock t25 turbo, stock intake manifold, Meagan headers, turbo elbow, and 3 in straight pipe exhaust with apexi tip and skinny type 02 sensor. I have a cx racing front mount intercooler and running stock sr20det maf and stock purple injectors. i also have a 255 walbro fuel pump and sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator with gauge and can see i have good fuel pressue. I'm thinking maf but when I unplug maf car runs exactly the same way, most times I've seen maf fail it runs better or worse with it unplugged. I'm wondering if you guys have seen mafs fail this way before and/or maybe send me in the right direction. keep in mind this car ran perfectly with this setup for over 3 years and only recently starting doing this, it's not a fresh swap being started for the first time

Do a boost leak test. Shooting black smoke or white/grayish?

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[DJTTon]

Any tips on taking apart the rear S14 zenki tail lights the cleanest way? All the guides Ive found have photos missing or lack of info. I know that sticking them into the oven is an option to loosen up the rtv used from the factory. But Im not sure where to pry and etc.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Any tips on taking apart the rear S14 zenki tail lights the cleanest way? All the guides Ive found have photos missing or lack of info. I know that sticking them into the oven is an option to loosen up the rtv used from the factory. But Im not sure where to pry and etc.

Once you have them off the car, make sure you get a tube of the auto body dope used to seal them correctly when you put them back on.

Using a blow dryer, or better yet, a heatgun (the cheap one from harbor freight works fine), you look for the seam between the housing and the plastic. Gently remove the clips(can't remember if this is like headlights) if present, then apply the heat. Using a screwdriver, gently apply pressure to open. You will need a couple wedges, like the $1.99/$3.99 pack of blue panel wedges from harbor freight, to hold the parts you have done open, and continue to heat, applying pressure to open, until you get to a point you can 'clamshell open the rest.

Clean and repaint as required all parts

Using a small cut tube of silicone, reassemble the parts and do not overdo it on the silicone, only use enough to seal. Add in your LED light kits, then before you attach to the car again, apply nice round lines of continuous sealing dope, then fit the tails, screw down, done.

Headlight is same process to replace clear lenses such as those from Royal Natives in So-Cal

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Once you have them off the car, make sure you get a tube of the auto body dope used to seal them correctly when you put them back on.

Using a blow dryer, or better yet, a heatgun (the cheap one from harbor freight works fine), you look for the seam between the housing and the plastic. Gently remove the clips(can't remember if this is like headlights) if present, then apply the heat. Using a screwdriver, gently apply pressure to open. You will need a couple wedges, like the $1.99/$3.99 pack of blue panel wedges from harbor freight, to hold the parts you have done open, and continue to heat, applying pressure to open, until you get to a point you can 'clamshell open the rest.

Clean and repaint as required all parts

Using a small cut tube of silicone, reassemble the parts and do not overdo it on the silicone, only use enough to seal. Add in your LED light kits, then before you attach to the car again, apply nice round lines of continuous sealing dope, then fit the tails, screw down, done.

Headlight is same process to replace clear lenses such as those from Royal Natives in So-Cal

Thank you so much dope man. The tail lights don't have clips, the only thing I see is that the rear corners have like plastic tabs that sort of clip/slide in that keeps two plastic faces connected.


The center garnish I believe is held in by a bunch of small screws and some sealant. I just don't want to break these things. I already messed up some of the plastic tabs on one of the corners; the damn things are so soft.

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by mr.nismo.

If it's stuck open it wouldnt cause an intermediate hesitation. After 4800rpms the knock sensor is ignored (if we're talking SR) and timing resumes to normal. The noises you describe sound like a good working BOV, it's just adjusted a little tight (4-5 psi not enough to open it hence the compressor surge, but 9-10 is so it blows off). Your hesitation could be anything form a faulty knock sensor to mechanical timing... You're going to have to give it a good check for normal maintenance before anything else.

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Alright thanks for the reply, I do have a code 34 on my ecu but I was thinking if I should replace the knock sensor or not. I'm getting a nistune next year but does that bypass the knock sensor? So I've heard but don't know, the sensor is a pain in the ass to change so I'd avoid it if it's useless

[TheRealSy90]

Knock sensors are not useless by the way. It's a very important component in telling the ecu how the engine is running.

Originally Posted by marveluz

Has anyone tried these OBX longtube headers for the KA?

What header is the old one that you removed? Any interest in selling it?

[averyglass]

Ive been doing some research for awhile now and I am trying to figure of the heat for my 1995 S14 with a S13 SR20. I have the heater lines ran. But the cable coming from the heater core that goes to a stock valve on the KA water lines. What do I do with that?

[marveluz]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

What header is the old one that you removed? Any interest in selling it?

Megan Racing, I’m holding on to this as I sent the OBX back.



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